800 watt bridgelux outdoor floodlights grow

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I've spent the last couple months with China (Semlights) and have finally received my sample order of 4 200 watt, multi temp, floodlights. DHL fucked up my packages. These lights are 40 pounds each and they bent 3 of the brackets and cause a loose wire. The one with the most damage has a flicker on one chip. 2 of these side by side is as big as a raptor hood. They are 3'x1'x8". I will be doing a run with 800 watts over 2 2'x4' trays. This 4'x4' area will be the same as a friends #per tray with 1000 watters. He has vegged, so flowering we are starting even.


More when I get off work.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
File a warranty claim.........maybe they won't avoid it like the plague .

How's the heat output from the casing/drivers? Have you checked what heasinks their using in that passive system?

Good luck and will follow this show
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
How hot do the heatsinks get after they have been running for awhile? So is each LED bulb supposed to be 50W?
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
If I file a claim, they require me to hand over the damaged lights until the claim is reviewed. I don't have the time for that. But it give me a reason to open is up. ip67, so the glass is clamped and glued. The heatsink is warm but not as hot as I expected. My temp gun is broke, I will get one tomorrow. The glass is cool to the touch. It draws 192 watts at the plug.
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
If the lights pull good numbers, the next ones will be made with the new Cree 200lm per watt chips. I haven't gotten to that point yet. Maybe in 10 weeks:bigjoint:. The only way to make the affordable will be to have them shipped on a ship. DHL fucked me for over $100 a unit for 3 to 5 day shipping. I might be selling these though a friends hydro store. They will be no more than $500 a unit. Otherwise it wouldn't be worth. Hopefully closer to $450. My test starts tomorrow.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Good info thnx! If they are pulling 192W we could guess they are dissipating 160W or 40W each. That is a lot of wattage to run without a fan though they will be running super hot. That is no problem for a work light that gets used once in awhile but for a grow lamp's long hours it is critical to run cool. They would improve quite a bit in efficiency and longevity even by adding a 1.5W fan. Also, if you can remove the glass you will gain 10% more buds :leaf:

Which 200lm/W chips are you referring to XPL? Cutter has the low bin in 3000K. It works out to be 130lm/W at 1050mA or about 40% efficient. That is darned good for a low bin but considering the cost ($2.33/W) the CXA3070 ($0.86/W) will serve you much better.
 
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nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I think they are the xp-l family. I don't know if they are possible for this setup, but if there is something better when/if there is a second order, I will only use the best they can get. I will also only have the ip65. It shouldn't have the glass glued in. The unit I have to take the glass off it will stay off. I did notice more heat 3" off the glass than my previous panels. These lights need to work without adding anything. They shouldn't have a problem with running time or in a room that should seldom see anything over 90 degrees. These are meant to be on from dusk to dawn on and around warehouse, etc.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I tell you honestly, if they are dissipating 160W on a heatsink that size without a fan and intended for long hours, the engineers have failed. Those COBs efficiency is somewhat low to begin with, gets much much lower as the junction temp inside the LED rises, and will drop like a rock due to lumen depreciation at those junction temps. What I am trying to say is that there is no prayer for them to compete against an HPS with those conditions.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I tell you honestly, if they are dissipating 160W on a heatsink that size without a fan and intended for long hours, the engineers have failed. Those COBs efficiency is somewhat low to begin with, gets much much lower as the junction temp inside the LED rises, and will drop like a rock due to lumen depreciation at those junction temps. What I am trying to say is that there is no prayer for them to compete against an HPS with those conditions.

Yes ...Bad cooling engineering is present elsewhere too ...
doubled cased.JPG

They boasting by a " brand name's special weight ",
but in fact cooling design for the driver(s) is also not efficient at all ..

Too much heat from led arrays and drivers ,sort of "trapped " .
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
So I was able to get some temp. reading off the light. After 4 hours on the backside of the heatsink at the center of the COB never went over 100 degrees. One inch off the glass 86 degrees. The light weights in at 25 pounds, but feels heavier. All Aluminum, no plastic.
Well, I'm also going to be the underdog in this, because he took all the best and I get what he doesn't want or doesn't need. It will be sour d. Most of mine will be 6" shorter than his. Tomorrow I will have them in my room.
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I'm looking at the drivers and they say 1.4A input each. At the wall it read 1.6A. Am I right guessing that these drivers are dialed way down. The drivers have 2 dials, VO adjust and IO adjust. Anyone know what each is for.

I'm also looking at this, but I'm not sure if I can have it in more than one color temp.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
100 Celcius grades ? or is it Fahrenheit ones ?

Do not tell me it was 100 F ,after six hours of operation ...
With those four arrays of 50W each ....
I'll some difficulties believing that one ...o_O


Good luck with the grow.

You'd better drill some holes to the Driver's compartment cover / lid ..
Driver is already water-proof (aluminium encased) ...
All what needs ,is some .... fresh air ...

Cheers.
:weed:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I'm looking at the drivers and they say 1.4A input each. At the wall it read 1.6A. Am I right guessing that these drivers are dialed way down. The drivers have 2 dials, VO adjust and IO adjust. Anyone know what each is for.

I'm also looking at this, but I'm not sure if I can have it in more than one color temp.
svr.JPG

http://www.meanwell.com/search/cen-100/default.htm
http://www.meanwell.com/search/cen-100/default.htm
Array: Vf: 32-34V If : 1400mA

Shit ....
They are parallel connected in "series of two " ?
Not good if so ....


Use a polymeter and measure VF (parallel ) and If (in series ,you probably have to unsolder.)
When,already you've read the manual and test report of the meanwell driver .
(at the same page ,they both could be found.Tabs on top of page )
And then you can start "playing around " with those trim pots ...
(decreasing or increasing power )
Otherwise ,do not mess with those
 
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nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I was just reading that as you posted. Thanks. Yes, that is 100F. If you could laid out the heatsink and casing flat it measure 42"x17" of cooling surface. The drivers have over temp. protection. I'm thinking these are just underdriven to prevent them from heat issues.
 
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