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PowGrow 4-Light Relay Controller, 4-Light Controller with Trigger Cord, Metal Box, 120/240V Lighting Relay Ballast Light Controller for Indoor Hydroponic Grow Lights https://a.co/d/6VguHzs
840w LED lights 15 amp or 20 amp breaker?
- Thread starter Lilmink
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PowGrow 4-Light Relay Controller, 4-Light Controller with Trigger Cord, Metal Box, 120/240V Lighting Relay Ballast Light Controller for Indoor Hydroponic Grow Lights https://a.co/d/6VguHzs
pahpah-cee
Well-Known Member
This thread is going to end with someone burning down the neighborhood.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
I meant that you could plug one of those step down transformers into one of the 4 outlets on your helios, and be able to plug in 120v equipment into it. The one I listed is for 1000 watts, just like each outlet on your controller right?
I stand by my original recommendation though, before I said anything else, of just running a new sub panel to the room you'll be using. With the help of a qualified electrician, which is not me.
Skipping the light controller, which seems to be an overly complex yet reliable timer (not really a legit way to run power into a room) and just use cheaper digital timers for each light instead. Spend the bulk of the money on new electrical components, like wire and breakers.
I stand by my original recommendation though, before I said anything else, of just running a new sub panel to the room you'll be using. With the help of a qualified electrician, which is not me.
Skipping the light controller, which seems to be an overly complex yet reliable timer (not really a legit way to run power into a room) and just use cheaper digital timers for each light instead. Spend the bulk of the money on new electrical components, like wire and breakers.
I just didn't want to pay for that but it sounds like I might have toI meant that you could plug one of those step down transformers into one of the 4 outlets on your helios, and be able to plug in 120v equipment into it. The one I listed is for 1000 watts, just like each outlet on your controller right?
I stand by my original recommendation though, before I said anything else, of just running a new sub panel to the room you'll be using. With the help of a qualified electrician, which is not me.
Skipping the light controller, which seems to be an overly complex yet reliable timer (not really a legit way to run power into a room) and just use cheaper digital timers for each light instead. Spend the bulk of the money on new electrical components, like wire and breakers.
pahpah-cee
Well-Known Member
What’s your confidence level with electricity? I’m getting the vibe your not comfortable. There is A LOT of stoner electricians. This is an easy job that is being overly complicated. Id hire it out and a pro will be done in a hour or two.
I’m a firm believer in time is money.
I’m a firm believer in time is money.
I usually just learn on the go HA. No real experience.
It's hard to say, we don't have enough information.
1. List everything you need to power. Can the lights run on 240v?
2. List the outlets currently in the room.
3. Ignore people guessing.
No outlets on the room are available. I have extension cords running through the house to the basement and I want to clean this up and do it the right way.
4 LED lights - 840 watts each 3360w 6.9 amp
14k BTU AC unit 1375w 13 amps
Alorair dehumidifier - 595 w 4.1 amps
Water chiller 280w 4.7 amp
Current Culture 200w 1-2 amp
4 Fans - 55 watts each 220w 1amp
pahpah-cee
Well-Known Member
Word I am the same. I love learning new skills.
There is many ways to make electricity work but usually only one way is up to code.
using all these adapter may work but I doubt it’s the most cost efficient. It most likely is not the safest way either.
pahpah-cee
Well-Known Member
Anyway the AC is able to run off 240v? Some appliances can use either.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
It sounds as easy as putting a double pole 240v 30 amp breaker into your breaker box, running some 10 ga wire all the way through walls ,or whatever to an outlet in the room, adding a heavy duty cord into your light controller, plugging the controller into the new outlet, and setting the timer for the lights to come on.
But wait, you need a 120v outlet to plug the timer that plugs back into the 240 controller to switch it on and off. You seem to already have been using the existing 120 outlets in the room in the first place, so why would you need to bring in more 120v outlets? I'm guessing you have cords everywhere then, and there is none in there?
So in that case, if your already running wire for a 30 amp circuit for the lighting controller, you might as well add another breaker or 2 in the box too, and run even more wire to make another circuit for your 120v equipment.
Thats why I say you might as well just run a dedicated subpanel, and only have one run of wire leading to the room, then branching off from there.
But wait, you need a 120v outlet to plug the timer that plugs back into the 240 controller to switch it on and off. You seem to already have been using the existing 120 outlets in the room in the first place, so why would you need to bring in more 120v outlets? I'm guessing you have cords everywhere then, and there is none in there?
So in that case, if your already running wire for a 30 amp circuit for the lighting controller, you might as well add another breaker or 2 in the box too, and run even more wire to make another circuit for your 120v equipment.
Thats why I say you might as well just run a dedicated subpanel, and only have one run of wire leading to the room, then branching off from there.
No it's only 115
Probably just going to return the light controller
OMG, you're running all that on extension cords? That sounds a fire waiting to happen!
OK, now we're finaly getting somewhere. That 28 amps for the lights just turned into 56 amps total load.
I'd go with a sub panel on a 40 amp, 2 pole breaker for a total of 80 amps at 120v.
I got an electrician coming to install a subpanel in a few days. Turned out not to be that expensive at all.
A 120v fan plugged into what, a 240v light control? That's an alarming question!
It would fry the fan and quite possibly start a fire. Never connect any 120v appliance to 240 volts!
I can't believe I need to say that, you need an electrician.
pahpah-cee
Well-Known Member
He did. He knew it wasn’t a good idea that’s why he asked.A 120v fan plugged into what, a 240v light control? That's an alarming question!
It would fry the fan and quite possibly start a fire. Never connect any 120v appliance to 240 volts!
I can't believe I need to say that, you need an electrician.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
That's awesome man, sounds like you'll have a nice setup!
Something to think about.. Adding gfci's to some of the circuits, for the hydroponic equipment to run on, or anything in close proximity to water..
Something to think about.. Adding gfci's to some of the circuits, for the hydroponic equipment to run on, or anything in close proximity to water..
He's planning to put in an arc fault breaker, similar?
Bud man 43
Well-Known Member
Arc fault protects against fire- gfci protects against shock