“900 watt” (418 true watt) 730 umol

Granthony

Member
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 900W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower

Does the 418 “true watt” number mean the light is literally equivalent to a 418 watt HID? Or somewhere in between the 418 and 900? Or should I pay more attention to the Par value and lumens?
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
It just means the lamp is actually using 418 watts. The 900 is total marketing BS. It might be similar to a 400w mogul bulb but that's not going to be as efficient as what people generally call HID, 600-1000w mogul will be more efficient and DEs even more efficient.

I've played around with cost analysis in the past. Generally these cheap LEDs are similar bang for the buck to DIY, but the drawbacks are they use a lot more watts and cheap components don't last. Going by component quality alone, it's worth it to get something quality.
 

Granthony

Member
It just means the lamp is actually using 418 watts. The 900 is total marketing BS. It might be similar to a 400w mogul bulb but that's not going to be as efficient as what people generally call HID, 600-1000w mogul will be more efficient and DEs even more efficient.

I've played around with cost analysis in the past. Generally these cheap LEDs are similar bang for the buck to DIY, but the drawbacks are they use a lot more watts and cheap components don't last. Going by component quality alone, it's worth it to get something quality.
So there really is a big difference between a $2k 1000w LED and a $200 1000w LED? That seems insane.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
So there really is a big difference between a $2k 1000w LED and a $200 1000w LED? That seems insane.
Yes, but those aren't your only options though. Spend that 200 dollars on a quality LED light. It will give you similar light levels to the 400w cheapo that's advertised as a 900. It's like this, if the 400w lamp is 25% efficient and the 200w LED is 50% efficient, they're both providing 100w of actual light, but the 200w LED is only putting out 100w of waste heat while the 400w LED is putting out around 300w of waste heat. The drivers and emitters are lower quality and generally have poor thermal design and won't last as long.

Timber has a 200w kit for $240 and HLG has a 260w kit for $325. There could be others but I haven't really looked around recently. Or you can look into strips or a DIY cob build. If you need some help with emitter and driver selection there are multiple people here that would be glad to help.
 

Granthony

Member
Yes, but those aren't your only options though. Spend that 200 dollars on a quality LED light. It will give you similar light levels to the 400w cheapo that's advertised as a 900. It's like this, if the 400w lamp is 25% efficient and the 200w LED is 50% efficient, they're both providing 100w of actual light, but the 200w LED is only putting out 100w of waste heat while the 400w LED is putting out around 300w of waste heat. The drivers and emitters are lower quality and generally have poor thermal design and won't last as long.

Timber has a 200w kit for $240 and HLG has a 260w kit for $325. There could be others but I haven't really looked around recently. Or you can look into strips or a DIY cob build. If you need some help with emitter and driver selection there are multiple people here that would be glad to help.
Ok so then that goes back to my original question. How can I gauge the growing potential of a 200w kit compared to traditional light sources rated at much higher wattage?
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
Ok so then that goes back to my original question. How can I gauge the growing potential of a 200w kit compared to traditional light sources rated at much higher wattage?
If you're dealing with good COBs, strips, or Samsung LM561C-based PCBs (like HLG's Quantum Boards), figure to replace HID at approximately 60% of the wattage.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Ok so then that goes back to my original question. How can I gauge the growing potential of a 200w kit compared to traditional light sources rated at much higher wattage?
Minimum you would need to compare PAR wattage. Output efficiency * output watts. DE bulbs are around 42% efficient. SE bulbs (600-1000w) are around 35% efficient. A 1000w SE will therefore provide around 350 par watts. Could be replaced with a 700w LED at 50% efficiency or 600w at 60% efficiency. 750w LED at 56% efficiency = 420 par watts, about the same as a 1000w DE.

HID isn't that bad a deal if you're tight on funds and want to light a large space. Cheapo LED is never really a good deal since you can get similar output for similar money by upgrading to something quality with less wattage.
 

Granthony

Member
Minimum you would need to compare PAR wattage. Output efficiency * output watts. DE bulbs are around 42% efficient. SE bulbs (600-1000w) are around 35% efficient. A 1000w SE will therefore provide around 350 par watts. Could be replaced with a 700w LED at 50% efficiency or 600w at 60% efficiency. 750w LED at 56% efficiency = 420 par watts, about the same as a 1000w DE.

HID isn't that bad a deal if you're tight on funds and want to light a large space. Cheapo LED is never really a good deal since you can get similar output for similar money by upgrading to something quality with less wattage.
Problem is I live in an area that has blistering summers and high electricity cost ($0.25/kWh)
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Problem is I live in an area that has blistering summers and high electricity cost ($0.25/kWh)
You can get HID combos on Ebay pretty cheap, probably cheap enough to deal with the electrical bills until you have the funds to upgrade. Or you can start with a small LED setup and add to it over time. It just depends on what you're trying to do.
 

Granthony

Member
You can get HID combos on Ebay pretty cheap, probably cheap enough to deal with the electrical bills until you have the funds to upgrade. Or you can start with a small LED setup and add to it over time. It just depends on what you're trying to do.
If it matters, I was going to do a perpetual grow. 3 plants in flower harvesting one every 3 weeks. And a veg room with clones that I’d take one at a time into flower. Would it fuck the plants up having LED in one room and HID in the other?
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
If it matters, I was going to do a perpetual grow. 3 plants in flower harvesting one every 3 weeks. And a veg room with clones that I’d take one at a time into flower. Would it fuck the plants up having LED in one room and HID in the other?
No shouldn't matter.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
I understand that’s what it means. But I also know the advertised 900w is bullshit. I’m looking for the best objective metric to compare LED to HID
find an LED with an actual PPF output number (not PPFD!)

otherwise you cant compare, at all
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
find an LED with an actual PPF output number (not PPFD!)

otherwise you cant compare, at all
This 1000%

KindLED/Blackdog make their mark by spouting their great PPFD numbers. Little do they tell you how many PAR photons (PPF) their lights actually output. Which is what truly matters. Lenses and other optics can distort PPFD like mad.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 900W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower

Does the 418 “true watt” number mean the light is literally equivalent to a 418 watt HID? Or somewhere in between the 418 and 900? Or should I pay more attention to the Par value and lumens?
Where did the 730µmols figure in the title of the thread come from? It actually sounds kind of accurate for a PPF considering the tech used and spectrum. And I didn't see that specifically on a PPFD chart from their site.
730µmols÷418w=1.7µmols/w...for a red/blue dominate panel of it's price category.
 

shawn75can

Well-Known Member
Currently using the 900w
Hey I just went from a cheap blurple COB 800 watt 210 TRUE Watts. That I paid about $200 Cdn & that was my 1st light but half way thru flower my HLG Quantum Board 260 TRUE Watts 280 I'm told? I paid about $500 & it is 1000 X BETTER brighter light. They are as good as they say. It's worth the extra $$, even if saving is needed not everyone has $500 fir a grow light
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
I still would like a answer as to whether i should go with a cob build vs f strip build

Which is more productive...and if they are the same then which is more cost effective?

Do cobs require active cooling?
Do cobs run hotter then strips?
 
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