A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions
- Thread starter IAm5toned
- Start date
metaltooths
Well-Known Member
theres two outlets that im assuming run off the same circut. whatever that means..
one outlets has a surge strip full of extension cords connected to cfl's(278 watts total), and a simple oscillating fan, run throu a timer.
the other outlet has a small can fan(50 cfm) connected to its own extension cord. while i dont know the specs of it..my laundry room fan says: 50cfm 120v 60hz 0.75a
im asking whether its safe to run a second exhaust fan on the same outlet as the other(plug in each socket)
probably huh?
one outlets has a surge strip full of extension cords connected to cfl's(278 watts total), and a simple oscillating fan, run throu a timer.
the other outlet has a small can fan(50 cfm) connected to its own extension cord. while i dont know the specs of it..my laundry room fan says: 50cfm 120v 60hz 0.75a
im asking whether its safe to run a second exhaust fan on the same outlet as the other(plug in each socket)
probably huh?
metaltooths
Well-Known Member
much appreciated
willworkforweed
Active Member
How would I go about taking the fan out of an old harddrive? How would I attach a plug to it?
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
look on the back of the tower, there should be either a couple of screws or a latch that allows access to the inside.
once you get the cover removed,from there its simply unplugging the fan and removing the four screws that fasten the fan to the heat sink.
if you read back in the beggining of this thread i have answered the question on how to wire a pc fan to a 12v dc wall mounted power supply....
once you get the cover removed,from there its simply unplugging the fan and removing the four screws that fasten the fan to the heat sink.
if you read back in the beggining of this thread i have answered the question on how to wire a pc fan to a 12v dc wall mounted power supply....
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Iamstoned, thanks for making this thread and being so active in it. Im upgrading for this grow. Ive currently working with 20amps/110v. Ill have 2 x 600w, exhaust fan, and a couple of oscillating fans. It should be no more than 15 amps. I know i need to upgrade my timer, but I have no clue where to start really. I was thinking about having each 600w on their own timer. Ive got an analog one, and a digital one each rated for 15 amps I believe. But I want to do what is wisest and safest, so Im coming to you for any help you can provide.
Thanks.
Thanks.
chupacabra4real
Active Member
Is it safe to hook 6 40 watt cfl s on the same power cable?If so....how should it be done? (dumb question i know, but just wanna make sure I don t burn my house) +rep
Mont@n@
Well-Known Member
I have a subpanel with this breaker:
SIEMENS Q21525CTBreaker
Description: QT, 15/25/25/15 Amp, QUAD Pole, 120/240 Volt, Molded Case Circuit Breakers from Siemens / ITE with two 25Amp breakers common trip
The two 25 is for 220v Hid lighting and the two 15 amp for 110v miscellaneous. I want to wire this sub panel to my main panel (10/3 w/ground). A 40 amp double pole breaker is the right size or I should use 60 amp?
Mont@n@
Well-Known Member
Thanks broi would go with 60.
that way if you make any changes later on your not screwed
Mont@n@
Well-Known Member
My subpanel(my friend built it...looks like this pic) has a 40 amp contactor double pole(120v coil) for 4 220v timed outlets. It don't matter if I'm using a 60 amp breaker at my main panel with this contactor? I'm not a electrician. I don't want to burn my house down. I like to have my peace of mind when my family is asleep
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DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Thanks for replying. I checked two of the timers and neither says anything about resistive or inductive wattages. They just give me the max wattage it can handle. Ones even a hydrofarm timer. Id expect them to at least put that on there.
The other one that came with the new 600w setup says resistive on it.
The first two timers I have previously used for 2x400'ers, each on their own timer, with no problems for a full grow.
Is it fine to stick with them, or should I find some timers that state inductive on it?
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
it does matter.... it matters alot.
Im glad you asked me before you hooked it up....
because that most definitely needs to be a 60 amp contactor if your feeding it with a 60 amp breaker. or you could change the 60amp breaker for a 40... either way,
thats NEC... it means all components of a branch circuit shall share the same overcurrent rating.
shall = you must, there is no other way
greenish87
Member
Wow, I still cannot believe you typed all of that out just to answer someones question, it's amazing to see that there are still great people out there, who would do many favors for just no return. Honestly speaking, in this time we currently live in, I don't usually meet many people like yourself. I congratulate you on your will to help others, you really are, my friend, a good example.yes! this is quite a simple operation
what you will need:
tools-
a tape measure
a keyhole/drywall saw
screwdriver
wire strippers/ cutters
stud finder (optional)
plumb level (optional)
material-
an 'old construction' style single gang cut in box (it has ears for easy installation)
a good 15-20amp receptacle (i would go with the 20. there tougher)
2-3 feet 14/2 or 12/2 romex type nm cable
depending on the wiring in your existing outlet you may need 3 red wirenuts
receptacle cover (optional)
all of this can be got at your local hardware store for cheap! (less than 10)
step one- shut the power off to your existing outlet at the breaker box. if your not sure which one, shut it all off. take no chances
step 2 shut the power off!
step 3- make sure its off
step four- are you SURE its off? double check.
step 5- now that you know the power is off, its time to get started. note the exact position of your existing outlet. it helps to use the tape measure to get a measurement off of a common wall to both rooms
step 6- where your going to be adding the new outlet, measure off of the common wall to get an exact idea of where your existing plug is on the other side of the wall. you will need to know this, as your new box will not fit directly behind the old, it has to sit off to one side by about 4 inches to be safe. you also want to be sure that your new outlet is in the same stud cavity as the old. cavities are typically 13.5 inches in width, but can vary so make sure you take time to verify your in the right spot, or else youll end up either hitting a stud when you cut in the box or even worse, ending up in the wrong cavity. then your gonna end up drilling holes to get the wiring in and that is not the purpose here. this is where the stud finder helps
step 7- now that you know where the new box is going to sit, use a level to position it on the wall where its gonna go and use a pencil to trace the outline of the box.
step 8- now your ready to cut. using the drywall saw, you want to cut about 1/8-1/4 of an inch to the OUTSIDE of the line you traced on the wall. start with the horizontal cuts first. this will help you out in case your to close to a stud or the old device or any other surprises inside the wall and will allow you to shift the location left or right as needed.
step 9- yay you have a hole, and a mess! now its time to disassemble your old plug. remove the cover by the single screw in the center. remove the two screws located top and bottom of the plug. stop. is the power off? triple check. pull the old plug gently away from the wall after you triple checked the power being off.leave he wires hooked up.
step 10- this is the pain in the ass part, getting the wire from the old to the new. use the screw driver to remove a knockout in the back of the old box. these are removable tabs in the back of most outlet boxes
step 11- with your 2-3 foot peice of wire, stick it in from the new hole on the other side and do your best to fish it into the old box through the knockout you removed. this always seems to be the funnest part. it helps if you have a person on the other side to pull it up into the box ALOT. you need 12-16 inches of wire in the old box
step 12- take the new box you picked up the local hardware store and remove a knockout in the back. take the end of the wire coming from the old box and get 12-16 inches in it. once you have this done, shove the box and all the slack wire into the hole you cut and turn the two screws to tighten the box down... tadaa!
step 13- strip back the wires in the new box and install the receptacle. the black wire should connect to the gold screw, the white wire to the silver screw, and the green/bare wire to the green screw. if your color blind see the package the plug came in for a detailed diagram. they are usually there. take care to not leave any exposed copper on the hot and neutral, and make sure your connections are almost too tight. loose wires cause fires. remember that.
step 14- screw in the new plug to the box. it helps if you get the top and bottom screws started a few turns, then push the plug up tight against the wall. make sure you dont pinch the wires. then tighten down the top and bottom screws all the way. put a cover on if you decided to buy one. it looks good and there cheap.
step 15- connect the new wiring to the old. is the power off? you better check first. often this is as simple as just connecting the new wires to the screws on the old receptacle. just remember that only one wire per screw, if theres not space you will need to use the wirenuts to tie all the wires together (new and old) and make jumpers (we call em pigtails) to feed the old plug. make sure you connect the hot wires to the hot, the neutrals to the neutral, and the ground to the grounds. if you screw that up you will have a neat little fireworks show when you turn the power back on!
step 16- put the old receptacle back in the wall and put the cover on. almost done
step 17. turn the power back on. if the breaker holds, odds are you did something right. if you happen to have one, use a meter or plug tester to make sure your connections are good. if not a simple lamp is a good tester. if it comes on when you plug it in at both plugs than you did good!
Cheers to you, and happy growing.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
that timer will shit the bed, more than likely... its 50-50 odds
well on that particular timer, whats the max rating? if its more than 1000w than it might be best to use that same model...
IMHO, im a big fan of if it aint broke, dont fix it.
however the question here is will the timer handle the upgrade in wattage?do you have model numbers? i can usually find the specs pretty quickly. but
with timers, you usually get what you pay for.
if it looks and feels cheap, it probably wont last.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
im no christian, but do unto others as you would do unto yourself is not a bad way to liveWow, I still cannot believe you typed all of that out just to answer someones question, it's amazing to see that there are still great people out there, who would do many favors for just no return. Honestly speaking, in this time we currently live in, I don't usually meet many people like yourself. I congratulate you on your will to help others, you really are, my friend, a good example.