a/c question

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I'm in mid-MI moving to NW LP. Looking for the paper plans and calcs, don't need labor to build. I like to use MI talent and supplies.
 

gladstoned

Well-Known Member
That is easy. You will have a much easier time getting help online, then you will getting people to put on tool pouches. Much cheaper too. Grab some graph paper, do your best to draw your shit up and what you are thinking and post it on a thread in michigan forum. You will have lots of friendly advice and maybe a few fuck yous, but it usually doesn't get too bad.
 

gladstoned

Well-Known Member
Fuck Fuck Fuck :cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::wall::wall::wall:.

Dude shows up. Says he is here for estimate. I throw tantrum cuz I told the women I wanted it installed.
I told her we will talk while he is installing this fucking thing.
I had a few people tell me every bit of 400-500 bucks.
This guy says about $1500. $1000 if I do all the wiring.
...he is leaving now.

Here is a few things that were extra. I called this company cuz they are the best in UP. I knew the bill would say as much. Not like that though. Plus they still don't have time to do it at any cost. (Sure.)
Anyway he said I need a snow stand. Get that fucker a few feet off the ground or I will be sorry.
A heat pan or heat tape along the bottom so the units operate in cold.
Says the extra $80 I bought will help, but there is no room inside the unit so it'll need a seperate outside box.
There is also a grill guard that will keep the unit from getting clogged with snow.

Having a large outside unit gets tricky when they need to operate in a fucking blizzard when it's -15 outside.
Most AC take the winter off. This company installs Mishubishi and he went ahead and told me of several
expensive units that they have had to replace because of THEM not taking these precautions.
 

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
thought u got the wall mount for condenser.
build lean-to w venting.
sorry to hear that. you'll still get 'er done!!
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Wow, yea so what's the best answer for this external unit? That external component is getting less and less stealthy
 

kindfarms420

Active Member
im building 1 big box over both my condensers with treated plywood/lumber.. im going to make it so it doesnt have a backside the side of my house is going to be the backside of the box.. the way my siding is when the box buts up to the house there will be vent holes to draw fresh air ( little confusing to explain in typing lol ) and for if some reason it ever got too hot inside the box i have a 6in exhaust fan hooked up to a thermostat and that will cool it down quick.. also on my condensers theres a thermostat that will turn the a/c off if the temp goes below 5 degrees F my fix for this is just putting a seedling heat mat over the censor and it will think its warmer outside than it is..
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Cool info KindFarms.

"...also on my condensers theres a thermostat that will turn the a/c off if the temp goes below 5 degrees F "

What does this mean? You mean if the outside temp drops below 5F?
 

kindfarms420

Active Member
Cool info KindFarms.

"...also on my condensers theres a thermostat that will turn the a/c off if the temp goes below 5 degrees F "

What does this mean? You mean if the outside temp drops below 5F?

ya if the ambient outside temp drops below 5 F the whole mini split will turn off the censor is right where all the air gets pulled through the condensor so i think if i cover the censor with the heat mat it shouldn't ever turn off

the censor is not something i did it came with on the unit
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
rrog, most units do not have the low ambiant temp installed, but the good ones do. most ac will shut off below 45-50.
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
i suppose so but i am the type that if i have to spend a grand or more on something i shouldnt have to rig it to work(and possibly cause problems).
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
SS1 I misread your post. The unit you suggested for my build accommodates the ass-freezing fun of michigan winters, I'm sure. Still, where's the best stealth area to place this?
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
anybody asks, tell them to fuck off or that your bedroom stays so hot or cold and you added the ac so you could live in comfort.
 

gladstoned

Well-Known Member
thought u got the wall mount for condenser.
build lean-to w venting.
sorry to hear that. you'll still get 'er done!!
Wow, what a day.
The install dude immediately went into, "we have fucked these up before several times and must do them a certain way mode".
He stated cuz of my vinyl siding, a snow stand would be much better.
I figured another hundo, fuck it. (at that point of conversation, which was early. lol)

I unpacked the wall mount system after he left,
I didn't want everything opening and half installed cuz those jobs cost triple. lol.
Anyway, that fucker looks much better that anything he was talking about. Its a lot better than I expected.

Fucking deer opener is tomorrow, I will not be able to get anyone, anytime soon.
Back to thinking I am going to do it, me as in having this threads help.
Most of it anyway. I am pretty sure I am going to mount indoor unit and mount outdoor unit,
probably run electric to outside and then I know a guy, that knows a guy....
Hope that guy, is better than the last guy.

Another problem is having two of these units behind my house if I get a second.
Holy Fuck!!:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:
No body at all would ever walk behind my house and not say what the fuck?
Pretty sure second one comes with neon I grow weed sign, free upon delivery.
 

berad4guvna

Well-Known Member
I am thinking about framing in (2) 10x10 bud rooms w/4k watts in each. I use raptor air-cooled hoods that have 8" ducting. Will a 24,000 btu mini split dual zone cover the two rooms. They are in a basement. I have been shooting for the 18,000 but that doesn't seem large enough for both rooms.
No! As cold as it get were your at Glad., why not bring in cold air to those Raptor hoods. They wouldn't be hot if they tried too. In -15 degree weather! The bulbs should be off until peak coldness is ran through them, then have a timer fire those bitches up "so they don't blow out!"

4,000 watts should have 28,000 to 32,000 with ballasts ext. in the room, at spring or summer times. Remember you want head room for your AC unit. to much is better then to little.

So basically if your going to scemp on the BTU's. then ur better off having ballast's, and anything else that produces heat out of your environment.

Fuck Mitsubishi, LOOK at Fujitsu they have dank shit at a better price. Remember, a Heating Ventilation & Cooling specialist installs this stuff "HVAC". If you want to do your own electrical fine, but remember these unit's can't take power surges. A power surge can easily blow out a 300 $ CPU. bored on AC condenser "the big radiator thing outside." Without warning EXPLOSIVEO, a little lightning in you world is all it takes.

And if you don't own or are buying your home be careful unless the land-boss is up to date with installing a split system. ITS A GOOD WAY TO PISS THE BOSS OFF.

O, has any one thought of water cooled systems or a actual 5 ton system for their grow area?
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Another problem is having two of these units behind my house if I get a second.
Holy Fuck!!:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:
No body at all would ever walk behind my house and not say what the fuck?
Pretty sure second one comes with neon I grow weed sign, free upon delivery.
OMFG that is pants shitting funny! What does the sign say when it's running in January?
 
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