A Guide To Colloidal Silver
- Thread starter EverythingsHazy
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NZBeast420
New Member
Mate, you are a legend!A Guide To Colloidal SilverIntroduction:
Ok, so a lot of people around here have been asking the same questions about Colloidal Silver over and over, and I don't blame them. The information is generally scattered, and if you manage to find a good post here and there, chances are you will find a few more contradicting it, making it difficult to sort the useful information from the myths.
What is Colloidal Silver:
Colloidal Silver the mixture of pure distilled water, and pure (0.9999) silver. It is created by running current through silver electrodes that are placed water, which causes microscopic particles of silver (colloids) to break off and become suspended in the water.
How does Colloidal Silver work on cannabis plants:
Many people believe that Colloidal Silver spray works by burning, or otherwise stressing a female plant, forcing it to "hermie", or make pollen sacs. This is completely false. As you will see later in this post, real Colloidal Silver doesn't harm the plant in any way, shape, or form.
Colloidal Silver works by being composed of particles so small, that they can easily pass through the plants cells. Once the Colloidal Silver particles are in the plant, they bond to the existing copper molecules. Normal female cannabis plants, use these copper molecules to produce the hormone Ethylene, which is what "tells" them that they are supposed to make normal female flowers (calyxes with pistils). When the Colloidal Silver bonds with the copper molecules, this is inhibited and the plant instead produces pollen sacs.
*Note: These are still female flowers. Just female pollen sacs. Not male flowers.
Why are seeds made with Colloidal Silver "feminized":
First of all, "feminized" is a bad term. That implies that something was done to the seeds to cause them to turn out to be female. This is not the case. All of the pollen you collect from a Colloidal Silver reversed plant will be completely normal except for one thing. There is no chance of it carrying a Y-chromosome because it was created by a female plant and female plants have double X-chromosomes. Therefore, when you use this female pollen (all x-chromosomes) on a female flower, it forms a double x chromosome offspring (a female).
Store-bought "Colloidal Silver":
Why is "Colloidal Silver" in quotes? It is in quotes, because most of the stuff you buy that is pre-made, is either:
A) Not real colloidal silver
or
B) Very little real Colloidal Silver with other stuff added.
This means it is usually very weak, and not very effective. Often times, the particles in these mixtures are far to large to permeate the plant's cell walls, or not pure silver. Either way, the stuff will most likely sit on top of your plant's surface, and burn/suffocate/deform it. If you end up getting pollen sacs to form, it MAY be because of the limited real Colloidal Silver in the mixture you bought, or because the burning effects of the spray stressed the plant to the point of making emergency pollen sacs (hermie). Often times these plants look burned and in overall terrible condition. They also usually produce a lot of pistils even on the sprayed areas, amongst the forced pollen sacs.
Can you use store bought "Colloidal Silver" spray and get Female Seeds? Yes.
Should you? No.
Why? You risk just killing your plant without getting any reversing, sterile pollen sacs if you do get any, and still very little pollen if you manage to get some that is viable.
How can I tell if my Colloidal Silver is real:
Pour your”Colloidal Silver” mixture into a clear glass with smooth walls, and shine a cheap laser pointer through it. You should be able to see the entire beam (it reflects off of the silver micro-particles), and also a lack of floating debris (often black bits). This is called the Tyndall Effect.
It should look like this. (Note the ppm. Some store-bought stuff says 240+ but the beam is barely visible if at all, let alone multiple times brighter like it should be.
Much respect for this thread bro,
BEAST
farmerfischer
Well-Known Member
Good info . thanks.
I tried my hand at selfing with ga3 but with limited sucses.like cs it blocks female hormones . took several trys to dial it in to the correct ppm but after some time I managed to go some balls and nanners on a female train wreck but the pollen from both never took on two different plants. I've be reading a lot on colloidal silver but like stated there is conflicting Tec on it. So thanks much.
I tried my hand at selfing with ga3 but with limited sucses.like cs it blocks female hormones . took several trys to dial it in to the correct ppm but after some time I managed to go some balls and nanners on a female train wreck but the pollen from both never took on two different plants. I've be reading a lot on colloidal silver but like stated there is conflicting Tec on it. So thanks much.
EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the kind words. man. Glad to help out.
Thanks, man. Ga3 is some super potent stuff. You can get insane effects from such small amounts. It's truly a fascinating chemical. That said, I find it more difficult to use for Cannabis "reversal" than CS. Wasting a few months to find out that you aren't gonna get any pollen, or that your pollen is sterile, sucks.
farmerfischer
Well-Known Member
Lol when I first read of using ga3 it said to use 0.2 gram per 30centiliters Then later after Frankensteining (super stretching) aplant I later read I was suppose to use 00.2gr. Per 30centiliters. So that time I had some results but even then the ten inch plant stretched and grew to three feet quickly
EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
Haha, yup. It can definitely cause some insane stretching.
Honestly, you could start spraying those all now, especially if you are planning on flipping to flower within a week or two. However, I would actually wait until you start seeing pistils AFTER flipping into flower (a week or two after), if you haven't already flowered this strain (other clones), in order to make sure there are no "hermies" in there. If you start spraying before checking to make sure only pistils are being produced, you can't tell if the pollen sacs are caused from the CS or a "hermie" trait, unless you've already completely grown out a clone.
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ZoBudd
Well-Known Member
Thanks buddy. I've grown all of these strains out problems. I'll be flowering MUCH larger plants in a week. Actually, I just flushed 8 plants in 1 gal pots. In 5 - 7 days will transplant into 5 gallons and flip. So, I'll flip these little gals at the same time. In one week.
Since I've no fear of hermies, is there a benefit to spraying before I see pistils?
EDIT: Also, I plan on putting the little plants that I'm spraying into 1 gal pots. I wish I could go smaller.
Thanks very much for the help!!!
Zo
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EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
No problem, man. I like your pics, too. You should post more pics of the reversal process, here.
In your situation, I'd say spraying prior to seeing pistils should probably help you see a reversal much more quickly, possibly without ever seeing pistils at all. I know if you wait until the tops of the plans have the little "pon-poms" of pistils, it can take much longer. This leads me to believe that the plant probably stats producing a lot of ethylene pretty quickly once flowering is initiated, and you have to make up for that if you start too late. Spraying prior should cause a buildup of silver particles in the plant, which should prevent the pistils and calyxes from forming in the first place.
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ZoBudd
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the invitation to post my project on your thread. I'll post up a bunch of pics tomorrow. It's re-potting day! And I've got a really nice spreadsheet that I've been trying to upload as a graphic.
I'm also feeling a need to limit my variables. So I'll pose my questions with pics as well.
EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
Yea, man. It'd be awesome to see some other people's results using this guide. It'll help get more questions answered, as well.Thank you for the invitation to post my project on your thread. I'll post up a bunch of pics tomorrow. It's re-potting day! And I've got a really nice spreadsheet that I've been trying to upload as a graphic.
I'm also feeling a need to limit my variables. So I'll pose my questions with pics as well.
Can you screenshot it the spreadsheet to make it easier to upload?
ZoBudd
Well-Known Member
Trying to get this blasted screen shot. So here is what I'm working with the columns have a lot of fun stuff - I find looking at the lineage of each plant quite interesting. And If you haven't check out the seedfinder interactive strain map. Do it:
http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Fruit_Punch/Heavyweight_Seeds/family-tree/
I may sneak in a Blue Dream x Marionberry cross or a Blue Dream x Fruit punch. Just to for giggles.
http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Fruit_Punch/Heavyweight_Seeds/family-tree/
I may sneak in a Blue Dream x Marionberry cross or a Blue Dream x Fruit punch. Just to for giggles.
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EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
Awesome! I like the attention to detail. Very organized and efficient. If you want to only seed selected branches. you can put a baggie over that branch, soak the rest of the plant with a misting of water, and then pollinate it. Then you'd cover it again, and spray once more on the rest of the plant. That should pretty much guarantee that any stray pollen on other pistils, dies. Then leave the plant away from your other girls for a day or two, and mist it down, including the pollinated branch, before returning her to the main tent. The pollinated pistils should be shriveled up by that time.
ZoBudd
Well-Known Member
Here we go!!!! Day one of Spraying Begins!!!!
Letting them dry out completely, for a few hours then back into the flower closet under the T5s for a week before I flip to 12/12. The white spots are just a little left over neem and silica spray I use regularly to avoid mites.
I thought the homemade chalkboard would help chart progress, or lack thereof.
Letting them dry out completely, for a few hours then back into the flower closet under the T5s for a week before I flip to 12/12. The white spots are just a little left over neem and silica spray I use regularly to avoid mites.
I thought the homemade chalkboard would help chart progress, or lack thereof.
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EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
If your solution is well made, it shouldn't burn the plant, and therefore, spraying the entire thing would help increase the internal concentration of silver particles in the plant. Don't smoke the buds, though.
ZoBudd
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. I saw a youtube where the guy used an eye dropper to put the silver on just the nodes. Seemed like there would be a coverage problem.
I've got no burn problems so far!!!!
EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
How're the girls looking?
ZoBudd
Well-Known Member
UPDATES
Well, everyone is flipped to 12/12. Here are the girls. I've been spraying once a day with 20-25ppm. No bananas or balls yet. Some pistils are beginning to appear.. They're under a T5 rigth now.
Ironically, I think one of my Fruit punch #1 has undergone nearly full rodellization!!!!! I'll post pics after lights come back on, but I'm pretty sure she got old and seeded herself on a few buds. I'm no expert, but I've grown the punch for a while now. She'll foxtail, but I've never had a hermie in, say, 100 plants. A topic for another post.
Group Shots
Blue Dream Close Ups
Fruit punch close ups
A.K.A. Overgrowem
Well-Known Member
Go Zo: 1 year later how did your CS. adventure work out?