SimonD
Well-Known Member
https://www.rollitup.org/toke-n-talk/690506-unreliable-dealers.html
Your own words. This leaves just one question: are you just trolling or is it a matter of being a compulsive liar?
Simon
A perfect cure every time
- Thread starter SimonD
- Start date
Your own words. This leaves just one question: are you just trolling or is it a matter of being a compulsive liar?
Simon
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
Your point?
I said I never told YOU..so what your stalking me up now? Maybe you'll know then that I prefer to grow heavy Sativas and I often find good brick weed to grow out a dank sativa I couldn't otherwise acquire...
Seems your the one trolling....
And I like that all you can come back with is I don't grow or whatever and I'm trolling....you still haven't answered the original question....all I ever wanted
I said I never told YOU..so what your stalking me up now? Maybe you'll know then that I prefer to grow heavy Sativas and I often find good brick weed to grow out a dank sativa I couldn't otherwise acquire...
Seems your the one trolling....
And I like that all you can come back with is I don't grow or whatever and I'm trolling....you still haven't answered the original question....all I ever wanted
Dogenzengi
Well-Known Member
Hello Simon,
you started this thread and I am a tool guy so I love the idea of an actual measurement of humidity during curing.
Hygrometer in the jar sounds like a great idea.
As someone else stated a 5 gal. Bucket with a gamma seal top should work great.
I was thinking about drilling a small hole in the gamma lid to pass a probe thru
from a hygrometer and then seal up around the chord with RTV, sound like a good Idea?
My first grow will probably fit in a 5 gal bucket with room to spare.
This thread is a bit confusing....
I chose my fall back Source to RIU for a possible single answer.
Google searched the subject and it showed me to Dinafem, they describe in detail dry and cure.
since they are a very reputable seed producer I would think they would not post bad info on there web page.
If they gave bad advice no one would buy there seeds, at least that's my train of thought.
https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/drying-and-curing-of-fresh-cannabis-buds/#
I still have not decided other than to;
trim wet
hang 7-10 days till stem "just snaps" not bend and crack and not snap and crumble.
control humidity in hanging area, I will use a dehumidifier in my tent with a small fan running for my hang.
I will cure in Jars, still not sure about how often to burp jars and for how long?
that is all I have figured out, I will research more breeders for info.
I do not have a set opinion as I am doing my first grow.
I live in the South East, the RH in my home with A/C running full time is 63%.
you started this thread and I am a tool guy so I love the idea of an actual measurement of humidity during curing.
Hygrometer in the jar sounds like a great idea.
As someone else stated a 5 gal. Bucket with a gamma seal top should work great.
I was thinking about drilling a small hole in the gamma lid to pass a probe thru
from a hygrometer and then seal up around the chord with RTV, sound like a good Idea?
My first grow will probably fit in a 5 gal bucket with room to spare.
This thread is a bit confusing....
I chose my fall back Source to RIU for a possible single answer.
Google searched the subject and it showed me to Dinafem, they describe in detail dry and cure.
since they are a very reputable seed producer I would think they would not post bad info on there web page.
If they gave bad advice no one would buy there seeds, at least that's my train of thought.
https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/drying-and-curing-of-fresh-cannabis-buds/#
I still have not decided other than to;
trim wet
hang 7-10 days till stem "just snaps" not bend and crack and not snap and crumble.
control humidity in hanging area, I will use a dehumidifier in my tent with a small fan running for my hang.
I will cure in Jars, still not sure about how often to burp jars and for how long?
that is all I have figured out, I will research more breeders for info.
I do not have a set opinion as I am doing my first grow.
I live in the South East, the RH in my home with A/C running full time is 63%.
Dogenzengi
Well-Known Member
http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseedbank.com/Growguides/general-marijuana-info/drying-curing-marijuana-buds.html
And this one is poorly written and worse than the thread that confused me.
I will post all I find not just the ones I like.
And this one is poorly written and worse than the thread that confused me.
I will post all I find not just the ones I like.
Dogenzengi
Well-Known Member
Found this tidbit at high times in an article, After the Harvest.
"Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you’ve made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time."
I believe That....
"Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you’ve made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time."
I believe That....
Dogenzengi
Well-Known Member
Dogenzengi
Well-Known Member
This info was copied from THE MARIJUANA GROWER'S GUIDE by Mel Frank and Ed Rosenthal
Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.
Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.
Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.
Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.
Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.
After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.
A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.
With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.
Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.
Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.
Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.
A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.
Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.
Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.
THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.
Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.
Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.
Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.
Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.
Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.
Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.
After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.
A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.
With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.
Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.
Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.
Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.
A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.
Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.
Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.
THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.
Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.
SimonD
Well-Known Member
I uploaded this thread to RIU at the request of the staff under the condition that no trolling would be tolerated. I posted the thread in hopes of helping others, but apparently it's become an excuse for non-growers and kids to take shots at those who excel in this field. I keep asking myself why I need this and the answer is always the same.
Best of luck to all,
Simon
Best of luck to all,
Simon
Dogenzengi
Well-Known Member
High Times-
(I will be harvesting Colas, and letting the lower buds mature, following the first method described)
The final stage of cannabis growing – from cutting and trimming your branches to drying and curing your buds – determines the quality of the pot you produce. These easy-to-follow harvesting instructions will help lock in flavor and potency for the best smoke you’ve ever grown.
Text by MzJill
Photos by MG Imaging
Cutting
Properly processing cannabis at harvest is a craft that must be mastered in order to enhance and preserve the psychoactive properties, taste and appearance of the finished product. Many talented growers neglect to implement some of the following techniques, resulting in buds that fail to reach their maximum potential.
Inadequate or poor handling after harvest is the biggest cause of mediocre or poor-quality cannabis. This problem is compounded by the fact that most growers feel their pot is better than everyone else’s. Try telling a grower friend that he or she could do a better job trimming and curing; this will usually result in the end of a friendship. However, a good trim and cure can mean the difference between green-tasting, hard-to-burn nugs and pleasurable, smooth, clean-burning dank buds.
There are two basic methods used by growers to harvest their cannabis: cola harvesting (cutting the buds from the branches individually) and harvesting the entire plant (cutting it off at the main stalk near the bottom). The majority of growers find individual cola harvesting to be superior, for several reasons.
Some cannabis strains exhibit varying finishing times on the same plant. For example, the top colas may ripen while lower branches are still developing. Tops can be removed to expose the lower branches to light, thus allowing the lower buds to ripen further.
Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you’ve made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time.
Trimming
For highest-quality results, it’s best to trim all excess leaves from the colas/buds upon harvest, while the foliage is still rigid and fully hydrated. It’s very important to remove as many leaves protruding from the bud as possible. These leaves still contain chlorophyll, which will adversely affect the taste of your finished product. Some growers prefer to let these leaves curl around the bud for the sake of appearance; however, they’re sacrificing the taste and smoothness of the smoke.
Trimming is a tedious job and requires a great deal of patience, self-discipline and the proper supplies. It’s important to have a good pair of scissors (a $10 pair of hair-cutting shears will do the job perfectly). It’s nice to have a bowl or basket nearby for the shade leaves and a separate container for the sugar leaves (I like to separate them because I later use the sugar leaves for hash- and butter-making). A table, comfortable chairs and good lighting are also important for the trimming process. Try to sit up straight, set goals and take breaks; trimming a full crop can mean several days’ worth of work, even for the experienced trimmer.
Drying
The drying process precedes the final harvesting stage of curing. Drying is simply the act of removing the excess water from the cannabis. Leave the buds on the stems and hang each individual branch on a string or hanger of some sort. It’s best to dry the buds in a place that has indirect lighting and adequate air circulation.
A fan is good to have in the room, but don’t point it directly at the hanging buds. Allow the buds to dry until they’re crisp on the outside and the stems are still pliable. Because the stems contain so much residual moisture, it’s best at this time to remove the buds and place them in a large bowl or on a screen or tray. Hanging and drying time will vary due to climate and humidity.
When buds dry slowly, it makes for a smoother cure. If buds are dried too quickly, a harsher smoke could result. With slowly dried buds, the humidity remains closer to the humidity inside the stomata. If cannabis is dried too rapidly, the “green” taste will remain in the finished product.
Drying times are usually from five to 10 days; it varies according to the temperature and type of heat in your home, as well as the ambient humidity, airflow and the density of your buds.
Curing
Cannabis continues to cure after it’s harvested, while it’s drying and even after it’s put in a jar. Just like a fine wine or gourmet coffee beans, marijuana needs to be cured to achieve the rich, smooth, robust taste that lingers on your palate and in your brain. During the curing period, the cannabinoid acids go through the process of decarboxylation into the psychoactive cannabinoids, and the terpenes will isomerize to create new polyterpenes.
Just as with any other fruit, when cannabis is harvested, the fruit or bud isn’t dead; it continues to metabolize. Pick a tomato from your garden while it’s still partially green and set it on a windowsill; it’ll continue to ripen for days. The same is true of a fresh banana. As the banana ages, the peel will turn a darker yellow, and the fruit inside will become softer and have a sweeter flavor. The more robust flavors and tantalizing fragrances of cannabis begin to appear as the chlorophyll and other pigments break down.
When the small stems that remain under the buds are dry enough to snap, and the buds themselves are dry enough to smoke, it’s time to begin the final curing process. Make sure your cannabis is completely dry before putting it in a sealed jar or container. Sealing wet cannabis in a jar or container will result in mold, rendering the weed unsafe to smoke.
Use glass canning jars (i.e., Mason, Ball or Kerr) to cure and store your finished product. Freezer bags can also be used for storing cannabis, but glass is always preferred. Don’t store your cannabis in sandwich bags or anything made of a similar plastic; the buds will become too dry and lose potency.
It’s important to open the jars occasionally to let in oxygen needed for the curing process, as well as to allow gases built up from the curing process to escape. During the first three days of curing, I open the jars once a day. After that, open your jars twice a week for two weeks, then once more after the first month. At this point, the curing process is basically complete, but the buds will continue to mature and acquire more delicate flavors with time if stored properly.
Store your jarred, cured cannabis in a cool, dark place to help slow the breakdown of the cannabinoids. Although cannabis needs oxygen through the metabolizing/curing stage, at this point oxygen will have an adverse effect on the already-cured cannabis, since it causes the breakdown of THC into CBN.
The implementation of the simple steps listed above will make your dank a legend among your friends. Imagine their surprise when you break out some buds from a three-year-old harvest and they smoke and taste better than ever. There’s no limit to the superb qualities of aged cannabis when it’s properly dried, well cured and suitably stored.
(I will be harvesting Colas, and letting the lower buds mature, following the first method described)
The final stage of cannabis growing – from cutting and trimming your branches to drying and curing your buds – determines the quality of the pot you produce. These easy-to-follow harvesting instructions will help lock in flavor and potency for the best smoke you’ve ever grown.
Text by MzJill
Photos by MG Imaging
Cutting
Properly processing cannabis at harvest is a craft that must be mastered in order to enhance and preserve the psychoactive properties, taste and appearance of the finished product. Many talented growers neglect to implement some of the following techniques, resulting in buds that fail to reach their maximum potential.
Inadequate or poor handling after harvest is the biggest cause of mediocre or poor-quality cannabis. This problem is compounded by the fact that most growers feel their pot is better than everyone else’s. Try telling a grower friend that he or she could do a better job trimming and curing; this will usually result in the end of a friendship. However, a good trim and cure can mean the difference between green-tasting, hard-to-burn nugs and pleasurable, smooth, clean-burning dank buds.
There are two basic methods used by growers to harvest their cannabis: cola harvesting (cutting the buds from the branches individually) and harvesting the entire plant (cutting it off at the main stalk near the bottom). The majority of growers find individual cola harvesting to be superior, for several reasons.
Some cannabis strains exhibit varying finishing times on the same plant. For example, the top colas may ripen while lower branches are still developing. Tops can be removed to expose the lower branches to light, thus allowing the lower buds to ripen further.
Individual harvesting and drying of branches works faster than drying a whole cannabis plant. When a cannabis plant is harvested, the stomata on the surface of the leaves and calyxes will start closing off, allowing only small amounts of water vapor to escape. This forces the excess moisture stored within the stems/stalks to exit through the cuts you’ve made on them when harvesting. The fewer cuts for water vapor to exit through, the longer the drying time.
Trimming
For highest-quality results, it’s best to trim all excess leaves from the colas/buds upon harvest, while the foliage is still rigid and fully hydrated. It’s very important to remove as many leaves protruding from the bud as possible. These leaves still contain chlorophyll, which will adversely affect the taste of your finished product. Some growers prefer to let these leaves curl around the bud for the sake of appearance; however, they’re sacrificing the taste and smoothness of the smoke.
Trimming is a tedious job and requires a great deal of patience, self-discipline and the proper supplies. It’s important to have a good pair of scissors (a $10 pair of hair-cutting shears will do the job perfectly). It’s nice to have a bowl or basket nearby for the shade leaves and a separate container for the sugar leaves (I like to separate them because I later use the sugar leaves for hash- and butter-making). A table, comfortable chairs and good lighting are also important for the trimming process. Try to sit up straight, set goals and take breaks; trimming a full crop can mean several days’ worth of work, even for the experienced trimmer.
Drying
The drying process precedes the final harvesting stage of curing. Drying is simply the act of removing the excess water from the cannabis. Leave the buds on the stems and hang each individual branch on a string or hanger of some sort. It’s best to dry the buds in a place that has indirect lighting and adequate air circulation.
A fan is good to have in the room, but don’t point it directly at the hanging buds. Allow the buds to dry until they’re crisp on the outside and the stems are still pliable. Because the stems contain so much residual moisture, it’s best at this time to remove the buds and place them in a large bowl or on a screen or tray. Hanging and drying time will vary due to climate and humidity.
When buds dry slowly, it makes for a smoother cure. If buds are dried too quickly, a harsher smoke could result. With slowly dried buds, the humidity remains closer to the humidity inside the stomata. If cannabis is dried too rapidly, the “green” taste will remain in the finished product.
Drying times are usually from five to 10 days; it varies according to the temperature and type of heat in your home, as well as the ambient humidity, airflow and the density of your buds.
Curing
Cannabis continues to cure after it’s harvested, while it’s drying and even after it’s put in a jar. Just like a fine wine or gourmet coffee beans, marijuana needs to be cured to achieve the rich, smooth, robust taste that lingers on your palate and in your brain. During the curing period, the cannabinoid acids go through the process of decarboxylation into the psychoactive cannabinoids, and the terpenes will isomerize to create new polyterpenes.
Just as with any other fruit, when cannabis is harvested, the fruit or bud isn’t dead; it continues to metabolize. Pick a tomato from your garden while it’s still partially green and set it on a windowsill; it’ll continue to ripen for days. The same is true of a fresh banana. As the banana ages, the peel will turn a darker yellow, and the fruit inside will become softer and have a sweeter flavor. The more robust flavors and tantalizing fragrances of cannabis begin to appear as the chlorophyll and other pigments break down.
When the small stems that remain under the buds are dry enough to snap, and the buds themselves are dry enough to smoke, it’s time to begin the final curing process. Make sure your cannabis is completely dry before putting it in a sealed jar or container. Sealing wet cannabis in a jar or container will result in mold, rendering the weed unsafe to smoke.
Use glass canning jars (i.e., Mason, Ball or Kerr) to cure and store your finished product. Freezer bags can also be used for storing cannabis, but glass is always preferred. Don’t store your cannabis in sandwich bags or anything made of a similar plastic; the buds will become too dry and lose potency.
It’s important to open the jars occasionally to let in oxygen needed for the curing process, as well as to allow gases built up from the curing process to escape. During the first three days of curing, I open the jars once a day. After that, open your jars twice a week for two weeks, then once more after the first month. At this point, the curing process is basically complete, but the buds will continue to mature and acquire more delicate flavors with time if stored properly.
Store your jarred, cured cannabis in a cool, dark place to help slow the breakdown of the cannabinoids. Although cannabis needs oxygen through the metabolizing/curing stage, at this point oxygen will have an adverse effect on the already-cured cannabis, since it causes the breakdown of THC into CBN.
The implementation of the simple steps listed above will make your dank a legend among your friends. Imagine their surprise when you break out some buds from a three-year-old harvest and they smoke and taste better than ever. There’s no limit to the superb qualities of aged cannabis when it’s properly dried, well cured and suitably stored.
chocobear
Active Member
I follow a different perfect cure method. It consists of 3 things.
1. Bud dried until stems are ALMOST snapable
2. Any kind of glass jar with an air tight seal
3. Boveda 62% humidipacks
The method:
Hang branches to dry or if you are scared about mold etc cut into smaller buds and stick in a drying rack.
Wait for stems to be just about snapping so there is some moisture, but not an overwhelming amount
Stick bud into mason jars, add 1, 8g boveda pack per ounce of bud, or 1, 60g boveda pack per pound of bud in the container
Seal the jars and stick them somewhere dark for however long you feel like (Packs tend to last a year depending on how hard they have to work ie how often you open the jars)
__________
Pros: No hygrometers, no burping, low risk of mold (will occur if buds are not dried enough), can store bud for around a year with no issue
Cons:It is not completely idiot proof, it is only almost completely idiot proof... I guess?
Note: I advise everyone to try this method on a small scale first maybe just an o or 2 in a jar with a couple 8g packs. This is just to make sure you have the right drying range, and are not part of the total idiot group.
Disclaimer: Just because it didn't work for you doesn't necessarily mean you are a total idiot. There are other factors involved, but you are probably a total idiot if you screw this up.
Thoughts?
1. Bud dried until stems are ALMOST snapable
2. Any kind of glass jar with an air tight seal
3. Boveda 62% humidipacks
The method:
Hang branches to dry or if you are scared about mold etc cut into smaller buds and stick in a drying rack.
Wait for stems to be just about snapping so there is some moisture, but not an overwhelming amount
Stick bud into mason jars, add 1, 8g boveda pack per ounce of bud, or 1, 60g boveda pack per pound of bud in the container
Seal the jars and stick them somewhere dark for however long you feel like (Packs tend to last a year depending on how hard they have to work ie how often you open the jars)
__________
Pros: No hygrometers, no burping, low risk of mold (will occur if buds are not dried enough), can store bud for around a year with no issue
Cons:It is not completely idiot proof, it is only almost completely idiot proof... I guess?
Note: I advise everyone to try this method on a small scale first maybe just an o or 2 in a jar with a couple 8g packs. This is just to make sure you have the right drying range, and are not part of the total idiot group.
Disclaimer: Just because it didn't work for you doesn't necessarily mean you are a total idiot. There are other factors involved, but you are probably a total idiot if you screw this up.
Thoughts?
BWG707
Well-Known Member
I follow the same routine. I've been checking some of my jars after about 10 to 14 days and all looks very well, no complaints at all. I'm gaining more and more confidence in these BP's as my curing continues. These could be around to stay.
PaulN'Chuck
Well-Known Member
Youre the only troll here. Youre embarrassed that you cannot provide fact for something you claim to work. I think we upset you by putting you on blast in front of your 28 pages of followers lol
Being big headed only gets you so far, good sir.. You still cannot provide factual evidence which makes you look like you dont know what you are talking about. Truthfully, I woulnt be calling you out if you werent so rude when I asked for more information on your thread. Now im making it my business to prove you wrong. Say what you want about me and my skill as a grower but fact still stand that you cant provide shit for an explanation but you can tell the rest of us we are wrong?
Everyone please note, Simon only responds negatively and has yet to provide any factual information. Until next time Simon, I await your response (and some FACTS)
PaulN'Chuck
Well-Known Member
And im pretty sure Quizoking was much more polite originally than I was and he still got treated like an ass.... Simon, we just wanted to know more. No need to be wude
Mr.Vega
Well-Known Member
I.dry mine til crispy on outside..usually takes 4-5days depending on bud size...temps abt 70-72 50%humidity....fuck the stem I dont chk that shit...when the buds crispy on exterior I throw em in a brown bag n seal for 24hours...theyll b spongy agn aftr that...take em out n let em lay out somewhere for 12-24 hours...back in the bag for another 24...chk em...if spongy repeat process until when u chk em theyre not gettin spongy anymore but staying fairly crisp on the outside...when this happens they're ready for jars...maybe the first day or two ill open the jar chk em but most of the time theure good to go by this point n I can leave em there to cure...abt two weeks in the jar n they're perfect for me....this is my method and it works very well for me...I.dont like my weed crumbly dry but I.dont like it moist n spongy either...this technique gives me dry sticky dense buds...the "perfect cure" is a matter of.opinion cause some like their weed diff than others...some like it really dry n some like it a lil moist still....u just gotta find what works for u.....my method works well....u should go.that route...
Elderberries77
Well-Known Member
Glad that you did, mate. For all of us newcomers to RIU, your efforts are (I hope!) well worth the pain of putting up with a few drongos who can't tell that mink comes before sable
Got my first proper harvest coming up soon and your info here will be invaluable to those like me who are new to this wonderful world of growing lovely dank nuggets! Many praises and two healthy thumbs up SimonD! 
Maybe it has to do with the fact that MJ has been illegal for so long, and still is FEDERALLY in the USA? Studies have shown WHY curing and moisture level makes a difference in tobacco, maybe start there and work it out on your own?
No one really has the science behind why and what moisture matters BECAUSE IT HASN'T BEEN STUDIED YET. Sounds like you have your very own science project to start and keep you busy.
All I know, and thousands of others know, is Simon's method DOES work, because WE HAVE DONE it. Unlike you.