A perfect cure every time

What about using those two way humidity packs? It sets it at 62%, is that good for long term storage? And in a pinch, could you not use one of those for curing, if the product was still just a tad bit too wet, and you did not have time to come back to it? Slap a pouch in a jar and let it cure that way, or are they only good for long term storage?

Thank you

yeah, bovedas are good at getting your jar right to 62 over a day or so. you still need to burp and everything since 62 is going to be an environment that mold can grow in. i prefer not to use them and just get everything where it needs to be the "old fashioned" way.

I will throw them in jars where i know the rh is below 57, but usually don't have much left for long-term storage

I see with this method you open the jars if your RH is a bit too high, like 65% after stabilizing, leave jar open for few hours. But how often do you burp the jars regardless?

Thank you!

For me curing in the summer time verse winter time are totally different. Growing a strain like Jack Herer in unforgiving in the summer time when there are plenty of mold spores to f- my weed up. So I use water crystals that can be bought off Ebay. Just separate weed from crystals with screen. Stir the crystals every day as the ones closes to the bud will be saturated. I have been using the same crystals that I bough 5 years ago...just stick it in the oven at 180F. Also great for if you live in an apartment..my very first grow was almost tipped off because a neighbor thought that the smell was coming from his pipes or sewage..Idiot.

SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

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Hello Simon my problem is I harvest a lot of trees about 200 300 tress outdoors. I hang them in a room for 7 - 8 day b4 i trim i put a fan in the room cus it gets hot here (am in Africa ) i always end up with brown buds b4 curing.. just want to ask if there is any way u know I can dry my thing and have them green cus all my customers want to see is green green buds. I grow vanilla kush, amnesia haze, white widow and ak 47 got seeds online and cloned them now I have a lot my next grow will be 1000 plants of all strains

This thread helped tremendously!

One advise is the temperature matters! Don't let you dry area be warmer then 75* F !

My buds dried in 79-82F* and the buds were too crispy. Even though I had humidity right.

I'm sure it's obvious but just throwing a friendly reminder

I admit I was a bit put off by the OP:

SimonD said:

those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved

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But then he did follow up with:

SimonD said:

The thread is open for discussion. Please feel free to post your questions, hints and personal experiences.

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And while i do see some bickering, I also see good info...

The original post... while maybe not as as perfect as indicated, is a good and effective general guide, and should work under most conditions.

But let's consider some of the points brought up (I can speak on): RH... my ambient humidity where I live is.. oh, just shy of fog most every day... it is fog every night. Mold, mildew, shrooms... they love it here. Like someone said, I need to work harder to dry my plants. I also don't lose humidity when burping my jars, as happens for most people, I gain it... as the air exchanges for what is around here, only wetter air. So yeah, I have to work a little differently.

I have re-hydrated crumbling buds (under an orange peel) that were poorly stored for a year. Originally had been top shelf bud... and once it was re-hydrated it was again.

Like a lot of other things (like harvest time) both when and how to cure, and for how long, are a matter of taste. I like to keep it simple and go with what works.

For me putting moist stems in a jar would get me... mold.

THANKFULLY I grow small... I can afford to take a little more time with each plant and don't need to hang/dry the whole thing (which is super convenient when you're doing a lot). I can clip my buds and lay them on screen trays to dry... and I can catch kief as it dries too... this allows me to use a very small drying area (a box). Curing... well, that's harder. I'm working on a "best" solution or me... but for now it's just warming up an area with hot dry air when I do air exchanges for my jars.

Trousers said:

I don't give a toss what EVERY cannabis book says.

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Not disputing that "popular wisdom" isn't always correct... but it also sounds like you're discounting many people who are much more knowledgeable than... well I for one. Looked at it another way... most growers are following the popular wisdom... that means pretty much all pot in shops is over dried and poorly cured to you (I hear they dry that even more, for transport and storage life)... but it's never felt that way to me... not enough to notice anyway.

On a side but still relevant note: I used to sell fancy wine to "connoisseurs" in Southern California. Maybe one in a hundred could name each red by smell or taste alone. Forget picking vintages or regions. Sure, with all the tasting and info I gleaned I felt my palette was made fairly sensitive (which it was, as proven by many in-house taste testings)... but over all these people drank more wine more often than I ever did... and spent more time concerned with all it's particular characteristics. Aside from a more technical education on the subject all I had going for me was my own honesty.

I always recommended that a person drink whichever wine they preferred, not what someone else said was good.

Came across these jars. Just wonder has anyone heard or used them. Hylids. If so what's your opinion

https://www.etsy.com/listing/384990362/hylids-fit-on-wide-mouth-canning-jars?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_e-home_and_living-kitchen_and_dining-kitchen_storage&utm_custom1=a1919033-4754-4ef2-bc0e-76fbd26cfc70&gclid=Cj0KEQjw_qW9BRCcv-Xc5Jn-26gBEiQAM-iJhV3aU_IY2VXF7Ifs-bWQAnUlWxfGYwE4oWITI8tWjwUaAgny8P8HAQ

YoungBezzle said:

The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%.

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I don't think this is so. I read on growing marijuana easy the Humidipaks won't lower humidity only increase it to 62%. I'll find the thread. Meanwhile I chopped last night - going out to finish removing the biog leaves standing on mah' Home Depot Martha Stewart foam comfort pad. I can just let the leaves fall where they want. With my grow, I'm trying to outrun bud-rot. So, I flooded the smart pots with 5-gal, of filtered water two nights ago and cut them down the following day. Clone guy said dry them as soon as possible and you'll have some sweet smoke. We'll see. I'm following SimonD's method. Thnx!
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Additional curing info: http://www.growweedeasy.com/curing

I just purchased a few C-Vault containers. I will post my results a soon as I can. Just hung my Dank Sinatra up to dry along with my own cross of RD # 1 x Lucy Charms. 77deg,55% hum. Also will follow the advice in Simons first post Had a good grow, and no bud rot so im hoping for some great flavor and aroma.

littlegiant said:

C-Vault containers

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Link us to one Scotty.

hydra-glide said:

Link us to one Scotty.

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Amazon bro! Reviews were good too!

I have an Onyx Inc.- 2qt. freezer safe, silicone seal, container, 3-lock like this one, but without the Boveda carrier in the top. Nice. I put mine in the bottom, and paid about the same price. The C-Vaults ship Prime too.
https://www.amazon.com/FreshStor-Liter-Vault-Fresh-CVault/dp/B00IBO4ZYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473217006&sr=8-1&keywords=C-Vault+containers

Wondering if, any one has made bubble hash that remains pliable. Most of the bubble hash I've encountered was hard as a rock and popped hash bits everywhere when crushed.
I'm aware that it all begins with the trichs and their quantity and quality, still I would like to see a piece of processed bubble hash that's still malleable upon completion.
A photo would be excellent.

I researched. On the way: (what did I miss? Please add to the list. I may not need it but someone else will.)
Grinder
•
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXSFB1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
TrimBin
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4NJSBE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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T-Press
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCD2YU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
•
Trim scissors (pointed, for nipping the tiny "pitchfork base" on sugar leaves.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ive been growing for many years however i cant get that high dollar grass smell.i dry 3 or 4 days ,remove buds jar,and store for 2 to 3 weeks while burping jars along the way---smokes good but not dank smell ---what am i not doing? have tried storing for several months but no great smell!!!

I've been having the same problem, have to slow down the drying time. I've got two friends that produce stuff that stinks from down the block, and the only thing they do different than me is cut down the air flow in their drying rooms and let the stuff dry for at least 7-10 days

LittleT said:

ive been growing for many years however i cant get that high dollar grass smell.i dry 3 or 4 days ,remove buds jar,and store for 2 to 3 weeks while burping jars along the way---smokes good but not dank smell ---what am i not doing? have tried storing for several months but no great smell!!!

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How are your temps? Terpenes and other odors are volatile and can leave/change if your temps are too high, in the grow or during drying. Some even evaporate at room temp. I believe that's the case with linalool, the terpene that smells of lavender, and a reason its rarely smelled in dried cannabis.

Keeping temps down also slows drying time, which is beneficial for the cure too.

I noticed that once the leaves are stripped, the bud's trimmed and put into a humidor that maintains 62%, the buds begin to lose that green smell and begin developing an aroma.
On the dark side, bud-rot aroma is too sweet. I can smell it now just thinking about it. I'm still in shock. HydroJoe told me everyone west of I-5 got hit with rot this season. We get more sun east of I-5. Alot of days it's overcast at the beach and up to a half-mile inland.
I'm not using a 2x4 wire surround. It means pouring water over the parts of the plant everytime it gets watered. I'm going to stake them in 7-gal smartPots this time, so I can water at pot-edge level. I'm adding another circulation fan on the floor and an oscillating corner fan.
HydroJoe said he puts his fans on a timer set at 15 min intervals (24/7) , so the plants get to rest between wind sessions.
Sounds like a good idea.

I read all of this thread and there's lots of good info in here.
I have used cvaults for 2 years now, which is only two grows(outdoor). I only have 5 of them do I still have a lot I cure in jars too.
I like to start all my curing in the jars until I'm past the chance of mold. Then I full up the cvaults with my best stuff because I seem to get a better and slower cure in them. That's said, the jars still work just as good.
For long term storage though it's hard to beat a cvault or a tight jar with a boveda pack fastened to the lid. The buds stay at the perfect moisture for as long as I've stored. The longest only about 8 months.

I don't do anything special with the cure. Just do it by feel like always. It takes my herbs about 5 or 6 days to get to the cure stage. Usually when the stem will crack but not snap in two. As long as you keep an eye on them and burb them at least once a day for a week or so, and continue to watch then for a few weeks they'll be fine. The first few days is pretty crucial. If they went in too most they will mold. If you smell ammonia smell they too moist. Pour them out and let them dry a bit longer.
And it's so important not too let them dry beyond the point of being able to cure them correctly. Once they're too dry it's over.