A perfect cure every time

Roger A. Shrubber said:

it should store for years if you've cured it right. as long as its close to 62% rh in the jar when you seal it up, it should finish its cure and then just get better for quite a while, but even when it finishes curing, it should hold there for at least a couple of years, if not longer. i've smoked weed that was 5 years in the jar, and it still tasted good, and got me fucked up.

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SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

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YoungBezzle said:

Simon Wattz Up Bruh I Was Wondering If You Are Anybody In This Thread Has Ever Heard Of Or Used The Boveda 62% Humidipaks? I've Recently Purchased Some Along With Some Cvault Containers And Have Yet To Use Them But I Pretty Sure They Are Gonna Do The Trick! They Were Featured in HighTimes And Every Review I've Read From Growers Who Use Them Were Positive. All You Gotta Do Is Dry Your Buds Until Your Stems Almost Snap, Drop Your Buds In The Jar Along With Your Boveda Humidipak And BOOM! You're Done! No Burping, No Opening Your Jars! The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it’s particular density. Relative humidity, and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the "Beneficial" bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll And Starch, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. The Humidipaks Will Lower Or Raise The Rh To 62%. I Think These Paks Are A Must Have For Beginners And A Nice Addition To The Experienced Growers Arsenal Of "Pot Growing Gadgets"! kiss-ass

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gotty said:

Read your post followed the link for boveda..created account ...checkout pack of 12 ...56$...OK...SHIPPING TO UK 58$ get fuct haha...just got 20 of the same shit..for.... £25 including postage...robbing twats m8...hoping success with your claim...cheers ...PEACE# youngbezzle

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SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

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gotty said:

You say dont dry till stems snap....dont you mean dont cure till stems snap?

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SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

Click to expand...

SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

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JackStraw74 said:

I jar before stems snap, put some boveda 62 in there and burp/open as needed. You can prolong the drying, you can not reverse it.. I go by touch, crispy outside gooey inside..
I wont take "drying times" as fact, every situation is unique.
I have dried to quick, very crappy feeling after all the time we put into this. Still had the effect, just had that leafy plant smell & taste...


Have 3 of the same strain, same tent, same cut day.. 1 is already jarred with a crispy feel (3.5 days), the other two are still wet to the touch.. Probably 36 hours longer to dry those vs the first one which would be approx 5 days.. This is in a 73f tent at 65% RH, one fan indirect. I think some airflow may have hit the dry one, but not confident as the other two were hanging on either side of it..
RH is reading 72% after 12 hours in jar and buds softened up.. I got it down in time to slow the rest of the process. Boveda and burping it down the rest of the way..

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randomuniqueusername said:

From what I know, the sugar and chlorophyl (which both taste bad when burned) contained in fresh buds need water in order to break down. You must cure your weed until you reach the right coloration but curing further will degrade other substances that you would rather preserve...

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Aolelon said:

So is getting your RH to 63% in the jar important? Humidity in my area is high and I cant seem to get my jars below 66% humidity. Is it fine to cure them like this? Ive been burping the jars every 2-4 hours for about 20-30 minutes at a time for a week now and they just wont drop below 66%

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