A perfect cure every time

Swiller

Well-Known Member
9:43 a turd named bk78 followed you. If you decide pay a visit to my personal home and see how that turns out.
 

ElxFeezy

Member
Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon "60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing." Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.

Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.
I feel you buddy. I’m just coming back from a year long break from this site. The Elitism and Gatekeeping here can be extreme. As for your comment, if you can’t get the buds dry enough, curing will never work. Curing DEFINITELY kicks your buds to GOD level buds, but if they’re too moist, they get ruined. It’s happened to me twice now. Beautiful buds go in, weird looking, perfume smelling buds come out.
 

Buzzzxx

Well-Known Member
Wow open the thread it was 2012 and a members was giving help hints to improve grow. Hit end of thread and its 2022 and couple of forum bros bashing it out. Says alot about the times we live in. Sad really. Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one and most of em stink. What doesn't stink is knowledge, and this forum has tons of it. Colleges don't know a percentage of what we collectively know. We should share more of that. I apologize but 4 bong rips of chemical bride has me feeling nostalgic. Happy growing family.
 
I've read most of this thread. I'm a fairly new grower, but I really didn't understand the 1) Dry until it snaps, followed by 2) Jar it and burp it every day for the first 2 weeks, etc. The drying until it snaps seemed to be really subjective, and I always got the real snaps when it was too late and the weed was already dry in the 50% RH range. For burping jars, it seemed like everybody had a different idea of how long that should be, and the science I sometimes saw people describe seemed not so scientific to me.

SimonD, the OP, seemed to put some real goals behind these actions, so I'm trying it out with my most recent harvest. I chopped before it snapped. Then jarred and the RH went into the 80's pretty quickly. Dumped it all out and dried for a while -- never the 12-24 hours people are saying because in my dry location, that would dry them out too much and I'd be back with no curing weed. Back in the jars and we're in the 65%-70% RH. I have high hopes for the best weed ever, because I'm already vaping some of this stuff uncured, and I think it's about the best weed ever. lol

Anyway, I want to make a contribution for folks to consider. Everybody talks about hygrometers, whether analog or digital, expensive or cheap. I've used the little ones from Amazon that you can either drop in the jar, or double-sided tape to the jar lid. These work good, but you still have to open the jar to read them a lot of the time, or shake the jars until the readout can be seen, and that's not good for your trichomes. A better option is a blue-tooth enabled hygrometer like this one from Govee


They cost less than $15 each, and you can drop one in each of your jars, and always know the RH in all of your jars without having to shake them or open them. They are really cool. The only downside is that they are bluetooth, so you need to be in your house to read the RH in the app on your phone. I also have some of the wifi versions, which can also drop into the jars. They are a bit larger, so I feel like they put too much weight on top of the weed. Might use them if I go on vacation.

Oh, and one thing I will note from using these bluetooth enabled hygrometers. The RH in a sealed jar is very consistent, and when you dry out the weed and then seal it back up, it will slowly rise for at least 24 hours. So people who say they can get a reading in every jar with just one hygrometer are not so accurate. SimonD was accurate in noting this. As the weed sweats, the RH will slowly rise for the next 24+ hours.
 
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DrBuzzFarmer

Well-Known Member
I've dried herb in different states around America.
Each place required me to come up with a new method.
Down south the humidity is insane,
Out West it's so dry your lips crack just breathing.
Up north it stays cool and damp everywhere.
On the East coast the humidity can change in two hours going from 90% to 12%.
It's the herb you have to pay attention to, method be damned.
It's very simple what you are trying to do:
Dry the herb as slowly as possible, to allow the curing process to happen fully.
If it gets too moist, it will 'slump' in the jar and look horrible.
If it gets too dry, the curing process stops.
The curing process is a chemical reaction taking place within the chemicals of the resin. Just like the plant, you provide the environment for that to happen.
Develop your own method since you know what the goal is.

I once got run out of a grow in Maine. I took the plants, almost ready to harvest, and stuffed them quickly into a paper bag.
I then stuffed the bag into a plastic bag.
I then stuffed the plastic bag (unsealed) into another paper bag.
Which I then stuffed into a plastic bag and tied the top.
I stuffed the whole thing into a duffle bag and rode a Greyhound bus from Maine to Christiansburg, Va(which involved a train ride), where I set up a grow for someone.
Two months later I got back on a Greyhound bus with my duffle bag full of herb, and as we were pulling into the Knoxville Greyhound station in Tennessee, I saw cops with dogs headed for the bus. I grabbed my duffle and decided to take a walk.
The bus left without me, so I found a quiet place to do something about the herb.
It was Skunk #1 by Sensi seeds and it was the year 2000.
I started knocking off the dry leaves and realized it was REALLY pretty bud.
A perfect cure. Slightly mashed and pieces of leaf stuck to it, but it was 2000, and people were still buying commercial with pressed seeds in it.
I drank a coke and made a bowl out of the can, and got so high I almost stepped in front of a car and got run over.
Once I opened the plastic, there was no more hiding it.
A bag of herb cured in a plastic bag in a duffle bag bought me a car and a trip back to Virginia.
Those boys in Tennessee were glad to meet a country boy from Virginia. Treated me like family. :)
 
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Northeastskier

Well-Known Member
Strange, because I always get the best aroma after about 3-4 weeks of curing.
Out of necessity, have cured for only four weeks and found that it has great potency and flavor. Trying to get as many plants as I can so I can experiment with longer curing times. Learning a lot as I go along, but this much I know already:

The terpines in each chemotype consist of different chemicals in different amounts.
These are volitile chemicals, each with their own bio-degradation qualities.
Base chemicals oxidize and naturally synthesize into hydro and oxide subvarients over a multitude of different time periods.
Terpines become terpinoids as carophyllene becomes carophyllene oxide, linalool becomes linalool oxide, etc., etc.
Commercial manufacturers use these same terpines to produce flavors and scents, e.g. lavender, peppermint, citrus.
During the curing process, many terpinoids are produced via fermentation, while others degrade over time.
Basically, the curing process is throwing a dart at these processes (plural).

You could not go into a drug store and state that every drug on every shelf is synthesized the same way for the same length of time.

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From my experience I can say that I have went well under 45% rh and I was able to revive my buds with fresh boveda. Mind you that I used potassium silicate as foliar and kept buds on stems after drying bellow 45% I just dried it until stems became snappy.
 

Racky

Well-Known Member


This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon
Thank You
 

EKG Cal Canna

Well-Known Member
I keep it simple, cut n hang in a sealed dark room, keep at 74 deg for abt 8 to 10 days with air movement then de nug into buckets or tote bins w lids burping & moving the bottom to the top for a few days. Then let the trimmers do their magic!
 
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