bk78
Well-Known Member
This belongs in the politics section, not here.
So does flexing your tiny little second amendment
trot along now pimp
This belongs in the politics section, not here.
My second amendment is much bigger than your tiny little dick.So does flexing your tiny little second amendment
trot along now pimp
DoubtfulMy second amendment is much bigger than your tiny little dick.
I like to keep track of my haters, its not like I swung by your double wide for a pabst or anything like that.9:43 a turd named bk78 followed you. If you decide pay a visit to my personal home and see how that turns out.
So tough. Man amongst boys here.9:43 a turd named bk78 followed you. If you decide pay a visit to my personal home and see how that turns out.
I feel you buddy. I’m just coming back from a year long break from this site. The Elitism and Gatekeeping here can be extreme. As for your comment, if you can’t get the buds dry enough, curing will never work. Curing DEFINITELY kicks your buds to GOD level buds, but if they’re too moist, they get ruined. It’s happened to me twice now. Beautiful buds go in, weird looking, perfume smelling buds come out.Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon "60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing." Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.
Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.
I'm stealing this one.I like to keep track of my haters, its not like I swung by your double wide for a pabst or anything like that.
Out of necessity, have cured for only four weeks and found that it has great potency and flavor. Trying to get as many plants as I can so I can experiment with longer curing times. Learning a lot as I go along, but this much I know already:Strange, because I always get the best aroma after about 3-4 weeks of curing.
Thank You
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
HTH,
Simon
So you are curing for just a few days?... burping & moving the bottom to the top for a few days. Then let the trimmers do their magic! ...
5 days at 55rh here and it's dry on the outside with some flexibility on the stems, no hay smellSo you are curing for just a few days?