A perfect cure every time

GrowNube

GrowNube

Member
SimonD said:


This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon
Click to expand...
Great post, thank you! I already am following this method but one step I did skip was to drop buds on a screen prior to putting in large mason jar... I'd think the crystals would be able to be collected, somehow, when I am done with the contents of the jar ;-)... Do you know anyway to collect the inner crystals? Thanks!!!
 
budstocker88

budstocker88

Member
SimonD said:
Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.

Simon
Click to expand...
I have little experience curing I always just air dried the whole plant so I will shut up and listen
 
L

laubs

Active Member
Thanks SimonD your input seems to work well. Don't keep mine long as I really enjoy that Great taste and smell!!
 
AtticGrower002

AtticGrower002

Member
Hey SimonD, thanks for this info! I am nearing the end of my first grow and have a question about the temp and humidity of the room I will dry/cure in. I'm sorry if this has been already covered in the thread, I read a lot but did not see it. I'd like to know for temp/humidity what is the optimal and range of what is acceptable for both hang drying and then jar curing?
 
DesertGrow89

DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
Well buds went into jars about 24 hours ago, my hygrometer initially read 38% and now it reads 52%... So should I just leave the jars sealed because humidity is already too low or burp them?
 
shorelineOG

shorelineOG

Well-Known Member
I like to hang dry until they are close to stem snap, then sweat the bud in turkey bags. If the bud becomes too moist during sweating place in a paper bag. There is a good article on this somewhere if you google turkey bag cure. I prefer this to jar curing. I don't like to use humidity packs because you need to sweat and dry bud a couple times.
 
KingBlunted

KingBlunted

Well-Known Member
Online I found "Ambient Weather-WC-10-C" weather\humidity stations with upto 8 sensors and one LCD screen to view. Says reads hunidity from 10%-99%.
Would these work as well as the caliber IV?

55$ for 3 sensors and LCD screen
Or
30$ each for Caliber IV
 
elkamino

elkamino

Well-Known Member
KingBlunted said:
Online I found "Ambient Weather-WC-10-C" weather\humidity stations with upto 8 sensors and one LCD screen to view. Says reads hunidity from 10%-99%.
Would these work as well as the caliber IV?

55$ for 3 sensors and LCD screen
Or
30$ each for Caliber IV
Click to expand...
I have both and yes I like the Ambient Weather station unit as well/better.
 
dazzyballz

dazzyballz

Well-Known Member
Ive used the good old fashioned way for 15 yrz.dry plants for 4-7 days depending on yr r.h.then once slightly crispy put in tubs open every few hrs.iv noticed hanging plants in tent on a net on paper for 3 days then in and out the tubs seems quicker but very similar
 
shorelineOG

shorelineOG

Well-Known Member
laubs said:
Hi Simon, you say to jar up when stems slightly flexible? If they snap is it to late?
Click to expand...
The first day the stem snaps it is not too late, it will still sweat. The sweating and drying is important. I vacuum seal for long term storage when they are where I want them cure wise. Hope that helps.
 
dazzyballz

dazzyballz

Well-Known Member
Have u seen in greenhouse seeds.com website.for the cann. Cup they cut the whole plant in 1 go,no manicuring and stuff em into long thin cardboard boxes and leave for 6 month.in sum dark heated roim.i couldnt believe it.check it out
 
shorelineOG

shorelineOG

Well-Known Member
dazzyballz said:
Have u seen in greenhouse seeds.com website.for the cann. Cup they cut the whole plant in 1 go,no manicuring and stuff em into long thin cardboard boxes and leave for 6 month.in sum dark heated roim.i couldnt believe it.check it out
Click to expand...
I don't know a lot about what kind of work they are putting out, but I love those strainhunter episodes.
 
cannakis

cannakis

Well-Known Member
SimonD said:


This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon
Click to expand...
Thanks so much! Finally bought a hygrometer and my stuff was Way too wet! Thanks brother!
 
Drgoodgreens

Drgoodgreens

Member
I have tried many different drying /curing methods , hanging the whole plant in darkness with just the fan leaves seems to work best for me ,as far as trimming the product , I find it a lot easier letting it dry first before I trim . I have cut the branches and trimmed it before and started drying like that , I lost a lot of quality doing that , the buds should feel like popcorn to the touch before cure . I don't use a hygrometer , but can say I put it into cure around 55-65 using the popcorn method . I get to try many different cures doing sea of green . Two strains I am going with right now , incredible bulk by Dr.Krippling , and THC Bomb . Happy days :weed:
 
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