A perfect cure every time

rickyrozayyy said:
LOL for sure bro... I definitely flush.. usually 5-10 days before chop. Sometimes there ride out a little longer then expected.
Click to expand...
I tried flushing as well, & Cldnt see any tangible improvement, so now I don't flush or put in darkness, but like I said b4, lots of people do, & some swear by it.
 
rickyrozayyy said:
LOL for sure bro... I definitely flush.. usually 5-10 days before chop. Sometimes there ride out a little longer then expected.
Click to expand...
So many things with growing are just each persons personal preference. I use Boveda 62's for example, & some people refuse to use them because they claim that they reduce potency over time, & yet I have buds that are a year old & no one can tell the difference from some of the buds that are only a couple months old...
 
Flushing has definitely made a difference for my harvests. Especially with smell and taste. I use a sour dee product along with mag when I flush... I also do my own trimming. And I've switch over to trimming wet. Works better. Less breakage.
 
I flushed this last grow for 10-days @ 15 mls. per gal. of Heavy-16, that consisted of flood-watering every 2-days. The quart cost me $18., I still have a pint left for the next grow. Farmer advised me that it can take months in storage for buds to develop a smooth taste. I'm for flushing, Farmer's not, though he has in the past.
 
any science you can find will tell you flushing is bullshit. ask any farmer that grows any kind of food crop, that grows tobacco, that grows anything, they'll tell you the whole concept is wrong and does nothing but deprive your plants of nutrients. you CANNOT remove nutrients from a plant with water. period. cannot. not with the whole ocean and a funnel. what you're doing is leeching your medium. that starves your plant. thats not a good thing.
its actually hard to find any info on this practice, because no one else in the entire world uses it, because its ridiculous, a waste of time, and potentially harmful to your plants.
i can't believe people are still doing this. and spending money on useless products....you're trying to remove stuff from your plant, so you add more stuff.....makes as much sense as the whole concept to begin with
 
Roger A. Shrubber said:
boveda packs are for maintaining proper humidity once you get it there with proper drying and curing. the reason it takes months for your weed to smell decent is you aren't drying and curing properly...which i find ironic, as the whole first few pages of this thread tells you how to do just that
Click to expand...
Yea, I don't flush, & I don't do the 48 hrs of darkness, but I do use boveda packs for long term storage, or to help rise the humidity a little if I accidentally hang my plant a little to long.
 
Roger A. Shrubber said:
you CANNOT remove nutrients from a plant with water. period. cannot. not with the whole ocean and a funnel. what you're doing is leeching your medium. that starves your plant. thats not a good thing.
Click to expand...
This assumes that the intent is to "remove nutrients from a plant" which is misinformed. Plenty of people feed their plants plain water at the end/near harvest (flush) with great results. Feed to the end if you want.

Many would rebuttal that it is a good thing, and watch the plants fade out before harvest.

Excuse me while I add soap to my hands in efforts to remove dirt... funny concept, subtraction by addition.
 
Is there anything that can be done if humidity has fallen too low: 42%?

Apart from the taste, will the potency of the tree be diminished?

Thanks. I think I dried too long.
 
The chemical processes that are the "curing" part would have stopped by then and not re-started.

You can re-hydrate the bud, but the curing won't restart
 
ACitizenofColorado said:
Is there anything that can be done if humidity has fallen too low: 42%?

Apart from the taste, will the potency of the tree be diminished?

Thanks. I think I dried too long.
Click to expand...

How long did you dry for?? And did you hang yo whole plant just reading this forum right now I know it's old now
 
Last grow facts:
Tokyo OG, an Indica-Hyb notorious for high tHc content. Flowered for 47 of it's intended 60-62 days, before bud-rot forced chopping them down. I cleaned the bud to near smooth of sugar leaf and mason jarred them with 62RH packs. One to each qt. wide-mouth jar. The chlorophyll didn't evaporate for 46-days. Now when I pull a bud from the jar and use Friskar's scissors to remove every trace of sugar leaf (into the trim stock's Rubbermaid container), the pure bud taste Tokyo and the OG comes through. So, imo, the longer you keep the cure under 62rh packets, the better. Farmer told me they opened jars that had been curing for 3 months and the not so good, was better and smoother.
Also, because of time restraints, I had to put a gob of Tokyo stalks into that 1-gallon cookie jar I made, with only the big water leaves removed. The secondary leaves are closer to the buds than water leaves, but have no crystals, so they're more like the corn husks that wrap tamales. However, those leaves left on the stalk, and jarred with 62rh packs, will dry crispy, be easy to remove to the trash can, and leave the buds beneath the leaf-wraps are moist and resinous maximas. So, keep those buds in 62rh packs and re-hydrate asap. Let the cure continue. Mine are.
Liking the s/s w/ silicon seal wide-mouth lids a lot. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BD4Y4V2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Attachments

  • Humi.13.JPG
    Humi.13.JPG
    622.7 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
Roger A. Shrubber said:
any science you can find will tell you flushing is bullshit. ask any farmer that grows any kind of food crop, that grows tobacco, that grows anything, they'll tell you the whole concept is wrong and does nothing but deprive your plants of nutrients. you CANNOT remove nutrients from a plant with water. period. cannot. not with the whole ocean and a funnel. what you're doing is leeching your medium. that starves your plant. thats not a good thing.
its actually hard to find any info on this practice, because no one else in the entire world uses it, because its ridiculous, a waste of time, and potentially harmful to your plants.
i can't believe people are still doing this. and spending money on useless products....you're trying to remove stuff from your plant, so you add more stuff.....makes as much sense as the whole concept to begin with
Click to expand...

FWIW, I fully agree with you. Nice to see the thread moving along.
 
SimonD said:
FWIW, I fully agree with you. Nice to see the thread moving along.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Simon, I've used your method now since I first read this thread. Basically it takes the guess work out of it. BTW I use those dial spring/hygrometers. No batteries to replace and they are fairly accurate.

Oh shit! That was 5 years ago!!
 
About the first post - You're talking about which RH I should be aiming at, but RH depends on temperature - relative humidity - humidity that is related to temperature. RH changes alot if temp is changed only few degrees.

So about that ideal 60-65% of RH - what temp are we talking about?
 
Sorry if this has been answered already, but I'm a little fuzzy on the process. So you're saying, trim the bud while it's on the stem, let dry until the flower is slightly dry, but stems aren't snapped, and cut it from the stems? So remove the flower while the stems are still bendy? Then into jars?
 
pretty much. i like to let them get pretty crispy on the outside before i jar them, then for the next couple of days i'll pour them out for an hour or two to let them dry, jar them for 4 or 5 hours, repeat for a day or two till it starts to feel like they're not getting wet again that quick when i seal them up. then i go to opening them for about 20 minutes twice a day till they start to feel right. then its once every 3 or 4 days

i cut them off the stems when i jar them, kind of hard to fit 8 and 12 inch long chunks into mason jars
a lot of people talk about the stems, i quit trying to use that as an indicator, i just feel the buds now, seems to be a lot more accurate to me
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top