Action items from a soil test

Hi all,
Recently sent in a soilkit test and got the results back - second year growing so I'm still relatively new to it all. From these results I interpret I have plenty of nutrients but the low soil ph may be blocking them out...? Only have one three week old autoflower in a 5 gallon fabric bag in this soil - the plant's leaf color is definitely on the lighter green side but no otherwise apparent issues (growing outdoors, organic). Soil mix was made from horse manure compost, peat, and COM Stonington blend. I'm wondering if you got these results back what steps would you take? Top dress with a couple tablespoons of lime or is there a better approach..?

Additionally I have two other seedlings started getting ready to go into fabric pots with the same soil - seeing as I haven't transplanted them yet though, if I need to make a more structural change to the soil now may be the time - any recommendations if I should make a larger change? Or stay with the lime but simply mix it into the soil instead of top dressing.

Appreciate the support

If this was actual dirt don’t sweat pH.

And if dirt don’t start cracking rat turds trying to adjust it.

For future grows though I have to figure I should add a touch of lime or oyster shells right?

StoneSoup said:

For future grows though I have to figure I should add a touch of lime or oyster shells right?

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When I feel I'm running into a low PH situation I've corrected it many times with the addition of dolomite.
A soil test is great but it's best when combined with reading the plant. That will take experience.
I don't see Nitrogen listed above. If a soil is healthy and properly watered the most common cause of a plant losing it's heathy green color in early veg is usually magnesium or nitrogen. If the whole plant is fading it's most often magnesium. A low PH will cause a variety of problems and they usually happen fast compared to a deficiency that develops slower.
I see the soil ph reads 5.5.
What is the buffer PH 7.2 referring to? What does the ? on the left hand side of buffer ph refer to?

That's a hell of a lot of calcium in that soil.

Kushash said:

When I feel I'm running into a low PH situation I've corrected it many times with the addition of dolomite.
A soil test is great but it's best when combined with reading the plant. That will take experience.
I don't see Nitrogen listed above. If a soil is healthy and properly watered the most common cause of a plant losing it's heathy green color in early veg is usually magnesium or nitrogen. If the whole plant is fading it's most often magnesium. A low PH will cause a variety of problems and they usually happen fast compared to a deficiency that develops slower.
I see the soil ph reads 5.5.
What is the buffer PH 7.2 referring to? What does the ? on the left hand side of buffer ph refer to?

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they mix the soil with a ph8 solution to determine the buffer capacity of the soil and recommend the amount of lime needed

also enr is the estimated nitrogen release

Given my already high levels of magnesium and calcium is dolo lime going to be the best choice? Thoughts on going wood ash or sodium/potassium bicarbonate instead?

The soil tests I've had done included sulfur and I don't see it listed above and wonder if excess sulfur could be playing a role in the low soil PH

Have you tried growing something in it?

Some of the macronutes are in a false ratio to their antagonist(s) that could lead to a lockout

I don't know that metric they are using for N and they didnt give you the C:N ratio so if N is high you could add ash or coal just keep in mind you want not cross a C:N ratio of 20 otherwise the soil will actually fix N instead of releasing it and that will kill your soillife
C:N = 10 is good, 5 is already plentyful rich

Don't add sodium, it will only aggravate salinity further

Potassium needs to be in the range of N & Ca

P at least a good chunk higher than Mg

Boron is far too low, it should be around Mn. Don't know why they put Copper to be higher than Boron, that is usually an order of magnitude lower than B (or more)

To control EC of water dissolved ions perform a 1.5:1 ROwater:substrate shake test

I love you kassi,

You are so hot with your man like arms ,and your hairiness

and my green wig?

buckaclark said:

You are so hot with your man like arms ,and your hairiness

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so you have been snooping around!?

Maybe you can find a Colemanite-product where you are to address the boron issue. Some plants are quite sensitive to it, Cannabis - not so much, rather Mn is quickly toxic

Kassiopeija said:

Maybe you can find a Colemanite-product where you are to address the boron issue. Some plants are quite sensitive to it, Cannabis - not so much, rather Mn is quickly toxic

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Bs I love a nice tomatoes and mayo and manganese sandwich

there, Boron 10-20 fold higher than Copper

buckaclark said:

Bs I love a nice tomatoes and mayo and manganese sandwich

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yes I love you, two!!!