Advanced Autoflower Training, tips, secrets

Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesise all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including:

• a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron[SUP][2][/SUP] or magnesium [SUP][3][/SUP]
• deficient nitrogen and/or proteins[SUP][3][/SUP]
• a soil pH at which minerals become unavailable for absorption by the roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
• poor drainage (waterlogged roots) [SUP][4][/SUP]
• damaged and/or compacted roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
• pesticides and particularly herbicides may cause chlorosis, both to target weeds and occasionally to the crop being treated.[SUP][5][/SUP]
• exposure to sulphur dioxide[SUP][6][/SUP]
• ozone injury to sensitive plants [2]

Click to expand...

Interveinal chlorosis is almost always associated with a nutrient imbalance. This may either be due to a deficiency of a specific element or to a pH Imbalance in the soil which inhibits a plants ability to absorb nutrients. While the treatment is the same for both, you may still want to select from the list of additional symptoms in order to search for the precise cause of your African Violet's symptoms. Keep in mind, however, that due to the complex interaction between plant nutrients, pinpointing the precise cause will probably be very difficult. Often, an excess of one element will cause a deficiency in one or more other elements, and vice versa. Moreover, it may be that your African Violet is getting the proper balance of nutrients, but an imbalance in the soil pH is inhibiting its ability to absorb them. Thus, short of sending your plant to a laboratory for testing, you will probably have to be satisfied with simply knowing that your African Violet suffers a nutrient imbalance without knowing exactly why.

Click to expand...

Even if it wasnt PM I say buy this just to have. This will completely get rid of the PM, awesome stuff. screw sulfur burners..

http://www.greenwaynutrients.com/lea...powdery-mildew

Click to expand...

we will start with ripeness. most people say to check your trichromes with 30X magnification. i have other ways. when buds are done they look "done". the appearance of the bud changes. the leaves start to hook upwards and become hard and crispy. the calyxes will swell and the hairs will turn brown. you can see a golden tinge to the bud leaves. this is the amber crystals. they start to turn amber on the leaves first.



not ready..........





ready.......






notice the difference? it's pretty easy to see once it occurs.

Click to expand...

Week 5/10~17/2013
Never Transplant!!! Start off in the harvesting pot 3Gallon+

You Could!! Cut off the bottom to a party cup, an when the roots come out the bottom just put the Cup in the bigger Pot.
20/4 hours is the best(Depending on Strain) If you really want to Find out what is best, Start with 24/7 then the next batch, use 20/4 and see how that goes...

Soil is more important then lighting.
Auto's have funny tap roots and until you grow one you probably wont understand. They have a tap like normal but its short and stubby usually grows to a 45 at one side. When you hear people say that they veg until the tap hits .... Well this statement is partially right but for the actual tap root to hit. Then you would have to have a shallow pot like 5 inches. Ruderalis has adapted to harsh conditions like permafrost layers that are very thin so to survive it evolved to grow multiple large sideways roots.Auto's growth will stop if over watered the easiest indoor mix i have found is a good organic indoor potting mix in ratio of 50/50 mixed with perlite. This promotes really good drainage which auto's love. try and steer clear of time released ferts to easy to burn your plants when using nutes.

For the feed/nutes even with 50% perlite a good soil will more then support a auto for 3-4 weeks. I have finished many nice plants with this mix only using water
best results were from using nutes 1/4 str at first then build up slowly.
I introduce veg nutes at show of preflower roughly 3-4 weeks. If your going to feed every watering then leave nutes at 1/4 str there is not much veg after this 2-3 weeks so these feeds need to be under max dose other wise a burn will greatly reduce yields at this point.
Preflower is not the sign to switch to bloom nutes unless you want a fast low yielding auto. If this is so then there is no need for veg nutes you want the N to diminish.
When the tell tale popcorns of hairs start to pop up over night. I use just water for 1-2 weeks depends on str of nutes i used in veg this just helps with nute build up and helps deter problems later on. Bloom nutes 1/4 str and build up
few auto's actually run for 8 weeks. i assume when i am growing a new strain 10 weeks have had them take aslong as 14.
I have topped and if its within the first couple sets of nodes then it actually helps i pull a 1/4 ounce more from my 1 oz strains
really it just relocates bud sites honestly extra weight is probably just stem weight but the scales dont lie.
Lst they love it absolutely love it SCROG remember this word if your on your first auto grow or a grow using led or cfl its a god send. For hid's this is the money maker in the right setup easily two to three times yield.
Auto's need no schedule when it comes to lighting common misconception is that a auto needs a dark period a true auto needs no such thing.They will run pedal to the metal start to finish under the right conditions. You may need a dark period for temps or your pocket book , If the breeder calls for a dark period its for the desired bud structure but commonly its the fact that they know that if you run 24/7 that the plant is no where near small or stealthy Dinafem white widow auto for example up until a year or so ago growers were advised to put it on 12/12 to bring out the best of this strain that was the claim anyway . But put them on 24 hrs and there 3' tall with a few weeks of veg left.


t-5 is enough to get decent yields
spectrum is personal preference nowadays the requirement of a MH to keep from hermi'n has been bred out most are stable enough to not have problems
personally i use blue spec but only at most 20-30 % is blue blue spec causes close nodes and shorter plants
i prefer a red spec on a auto i have found it makes them reach a bit more and in turn light is allowed to penetrate easier, which if you want a good yield is the key to bumper harvests on a auto ofcourse the more light the better but i have grown full term with 1 68 watt 2700k cfl a plant and got good yields its all about lst
and utilizing the light you have, being sure not to waste any

Dont use the finger method. You dont give them watering schedules, you schedule food but you water them when they need it not when a certain day of the week comes along or if the first few layers of soil is dry. When the pot is watered lift it up and see how heavy it is. Wait a few days till you see the leaves start to droop a little bit then lift the pot again and see how much lighter it got. IMHO thats a better standard for telling when your plant needs water instead of using the finger test. You keep too much water in your soil it hinders their growth.

research research research cant say it enough

research research research cant say it enough

research research research cant say it enough

Also to prevent that, some growers will use extra perlite or newpaper and use it as a bottom layer of the pot/bucket to cover the drain holes.

In horticulture, perlite can be used as a soil amendment or alone as a medium for hydroponics or for starting cuttings. When used as an amendment it has high permeability / low water retention and helps prevent soil compaction. ;P

Auto LST
http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.co....html#more-939

Tie down AF LST
http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.co...s-trainin.html

Mix one table spoon of garden lime per gallon of dirt. Never have a cal- mag deficencey and your soil oh will be stable.

Different strokes for different folks bud

Read the bag when you buy lime there are two kinds of lime: dolomite lime that has cal and mag and then there is also hydrated lime which you do not want to use for cannabis.


Week 5/17~24/2013
sweet tooth from barneys is a all time fav its almost always in rotation,probably the strain i would suggest to any beginner grower
buy 3 of these plant all 3 at the same time
this will insure that if you get the real cabbage like pheno that youll know it and not have problems
its not common but not uncommon and have heard horror stories about it indoors gave one of these "cabbage" pheno's to a buddy a week ago was about 3 weeks old he said after he stuck it in the ground outside its grown almost a foot in a week that is nuts

I like to use Super Roots Air Pots 7.5L(2 gallon) with 60/40 Perlite/Coco.. This allows for the most beginner gardener to NOT over water.. We all now when we first start that's the hardest part is to not overwater.. But this also allows for great rapid growth in my experience.. Air pots also allow for you to grow more plants in the same area.. Say you have 3-4gal buckets, well there HUGE.. Air pots are 9x9" tiny compared to buckets.. This is because they DONT ever get root bound.. I would also advise to get Advanced Nutes PH perfect as well.. Then you have nothing to do but PPM.. And with feeding always UNDERFEED(compared to back label instructions) would be my suggestion, but there are a VERY few that will take full dose.. Veg nutes if used weeks 3-5, then flower nutes weeks 5-8.5 then water for 1.5 weeks= 10 weeks.. Week 5 half veg half bloom nutes.. KISS, not to many additives... Last but NOT least LEAVE them ALONE lol, don't be touching and sqeezing your nuggies every HR.. Its hard but really just water and feed and well watch thru your tent, lol.. You have a lot of Oils on your hands so you touching them and stuff can/maybe affect them.. GL everyone

Yeah its not recommended to transplant auto's, you will get a couple rogue growers who say they have done it w/o problems which I can see. It's a 50/50 chance in my opinion to really stress it out. I've transplanted many of times and never seen any kinds of shock. They just keep going. But I'm for sure gonna play it safe this round, Should do what i am doing if you are confident in your strain. Take one of the seeds get some Gibberellic Acid. You spray it on the plant according to the directions (they seem to vary on the seller) when the auto strarts flowering. t'll make male parts and hermie itself, and it will give you 100's if not 1000's of seeds exactly like the ones you bought.

As for the height LST them they like to be tied down

. Will stay under 4' that way for sure

(depending on the strain, some AF can get like 7' lol).

8-14 weeks depending on strain and most will get good sized outdoors if you have some high drainage but still absorbs water type soil
if they get to large. drive a stake in the ground and tie the main stalk down from almost the top if. you can get the main cola/tip to bend down to where its looking at the ground "do this before flowering/ you can still tie them down after flower but be gentle" and bend it over a couple days or a week depending on how gentle you need to be if it feels like its gonna break or starts to bend stop and tie it off or stake it off
you get a s.o.g. effect

all it is.
is a controlled stress on the stalk i do it all the time its like super croping for auto's really dense's them up
i grow with cfl's and led's and its nice to not have stretchy plants

TIP OF THE DAY!!!

Dont talk down to your Autoflowers, it wont make them feel any bigger...

Posted this in a thread earlier, not many ppl frequent the proper forum to find this. I think its a great addition to the thread.

Have A Plant Problem? Check Here First

And this

Guide to Nutrient Deficiency or Toxicity

Andddd this

Guide for Diagnosing Plant Problems

The key to getting a successful harvest from autoflowers is SIZE

A true autoflowering strain has a pre programmed lifespan: from the moment the seed cracks to the day she dies the age is indeed pre-destined … therefore more than any other type of cannabis the vegative growth is critical to the end yield
Read here on the veg stage in autos→So here are our 10 Top Tips for a Better Autoflowering Yield!

Size of Pot

Even for dwarf autos you need to be using a 3 gallon pot to give the plant enough space to develop a good rootball.

A good light mix

A nice light mix such as 50:50 coco

erlite is best as it makes sure you get a good wet-dry cycle.

AVOID OVERWATERING AT ALL COSTS

Give NO NUTRIENTS AT ALL until the autoflowering cannabis plant has developed 4 nodes. The dose should only be introduced gradually and in increments.

Continue vegetative feed until ALL upward growth stops. The auto will have started flowering before this happens (in a 9-10 week auto, you would expect to continue using veg nutes until week 6)

Ensure the genetic material (that’s technical talk for Cannabis Seeds guys!) that you start off with is of good, well bred and viable stock. Check what other growers are / have been growing and how well the strain did.

For maximum grams (oz) / foot, make sure you have 16 dwarf/short autos in a 4 ft x 4 ft (1.2m x 1.2m) area

Go easy on the nutes. Generally less is better in most cases.

Don’t give them too much light to start with. Go for a low watt fixture for seedling growth, increasing the amount of light as the plant develops.

ViaVoltTM T5 Grow Light Fluorescent Lighting System Fixture, 2′ – 4 Lamp $96.59

This kind of T5 light is a must if you are using HID grow lights for giving seedlings and young cannabis plants a great start.

and that brings us to top tip no 10:

Autos don’t appreciate being transplanted. They just don’t have time to recover from transplant shock in their mad dash from seed to harvest. So don’t do it! Either sow the auto seed direct into their 3 gallon pot

Fixing marijuana Nutrients Deficiencies & Fertilizer Burn

http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/m...fertilizers-ph

Part 2:
http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/m...ies-fertilizer

Part 3:
Looking for it ;P

Part 4:
http://direct.bigbudsmag.com/grow/ar...ficiencies-thc

Part 5:
http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/m...-fertilization​

http://www.dutch-passion.nl/en/news-...de-to-AutoFem/

Click to expand...

Tip of the day: For people who suffer from gnats.

1. Stop over watering
2.Get a mug or a small bowl.
3. Pour some apple cider vinegar into it
4. Add a few drops of dish soap to the vinegar.
5. Place in area with gnats and give it a few days

Tried a lot of stuff when I first started growing while learning how to water properly

. I came up with this and it worked and I posted it on here and worked well for others in the past.

i actually just sprayed for gnats
some chewing tobacco tea on the top of the soil
also a layer of sandy soil helps keep them away no nooks to hide larvae in

I also (when needed/ prevention) spray water/neem oil/ dish soap on top of the soil after watering and it will create a film on the top of the soil that kills the gnats.

Tip of the day:
If its not dry, dont apply.

3 gal is the common practice from what i can see


Yeah AN is a little pricey but these now a days if theres a new grower out there that dont wanna fight with the PH that would be good for them. AN has the PH Perfect Technology, pretty cool stuff. Makes growing too easy these days

The Grow, Micro, Bloom base nutrients contain value-added components that will enhance the performance of any type of garden, and include:

F-1 (fulvates)
H-2 (humates)
An amino acid complex
Wet Betty (non-ionic surfactant)

The combination of the pH Perfect™ Technology, simplified mixing rates and level of chelation in the balanced nutrient ratios ensure that crops always have access to the highest level of nutrition and vitality boosters possible
Growers using the pH Perfect™ Technology nutrient technology will not have to worry about pH in their nutrient solutions, because the new formulas are able to adjust the pH to the optimal range automatically. Combining an optimal pH level with these cutting edge chelates has growers reporting back with a new standard in yield expectations.
In fact, the chelation technology used is so effective, that nutrients would still remain available to plants in conditions that would not normally allow crops to grow at all. However, growers won’t need to worry about that because the formulas keep your pH in the optimal range at all times.
The Grow, Micro, Bloom combo pack provides you with all three components of our advanced three-part feeding program. Together, Grow, Micro, and Bloom make up a superior hydroponics fertilizer that provides optimal nutrition. If you want to achieve fast growth, high yields, and incredible products, choose Grow, Micro, Bloom.

• Promotes healthy plants and fastest growth possible
• Pharmaceutical grade precursors
• More chelates per micronutrient than other manufacturers
• Nutrient absorption from a broader pH spectrum
• Concentrated, less-expensive formula
• Easy to use



Posted these on a different thread, thought they might be helpful



Didn't put anything in here that went into PH intimately yet. This is a good piece, its from Big Mike at advanced nutrients.

Talk to any experienced grower and they will tell you that one of the most important features of their grow is the ability to control pH. pH (which, as most people are unaware, stands for "potential Hydrogen") is of paramount importance to any hydroponic grow operation because it affects the way that nutrients are absorbed into your plants. Many growers have long had an adversarial relationship with their nutrient solution's pH, but recent advances in nutrient technologies have made pH much more easily balanced within the nutrient reservoir, without the need of buffer solutions like pH up (an alkaline solution) or pH down (an acidic solution). Here is the lowdown on pH, how it affects your plants, and how you can keep it in that "sweet spot" that plants love.
Why pH Matters:
All green-leaved plants can survive just fine with a pH between 4.0 and 7.0. Basically, because the plants are made of relatively weak acids, they enjoy an environment that is also on the acidic side. However, when you are growing hydroponically, the nutrient solution that you provide to them is their life force, and nutrients will not be absorbed properly without the solution composed of the correct pH.

While the optimum pH for plant uptake may vary from one mineral to another, experts have determined that the optimum range for most of them is between 5.5 and 5.8, though many growers will argue that anything up to the 6.2 range is perfectly fine.
Minerals like Manganese (Mn), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), and the especially critical Iron (Fe) have reduced absorption rates at a higher pH, while Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), Calcium (Ca), and Magnesium (Mg) have issues being absorbed at a lower rate. This doesn't mean that no nutrients are absorbed at higher or lower pH levels, but why waste valuable nutrients because your roots essentially don't know that they are there?
Controlling pH
There are a variety of tricks to keep your pH balanced. Firstly, for God's sake, make sure you have a meter, and a good one. My advice to growers is that nutrients, meters, and lights are not the places to save money. Spend some dough on a great tri-meter (pH, ppm, and temperature), and you will have the best chance of knowing what is happening in your reservoir.
Also, invest in some simple aerators to keep the nutrient solution in your reservoir constantly circulating; this will add oxygen to your solution (which makes roots happy) and make sure that all of your nutrients are evenly distributed. Aerators are inexpensive and can be purchased anywhere from hydro stores to pet stores, and even Target or Wal-Mart, though we recommend showing love to your local hydro store, where you can pick up the latest copy of Rosebud Magazine while you're at it.
To keep pH within that optimum range, growers have traditionally had to rely on buffer solutions, like pH up and down. While relatively inexpensive and incredibly effective, these buffers add unnecessary particulates to your reservoir, often causing your ppm meter to register a higher number than it would if it were only measuring your nutes (like it should). They are also extremely caustic and (as one grower and Rosebud reader whom I know can attest) burn like hell when they come in contact with skin, especially both at once.

One trick of the trade that is lesser known and less commonly used (though can be effective if you know what you are doing) is to add excess levels of Phosphorus (P) to your reservoir. Because of the way that it interacts with the other nutes, it will work to keep your pH at an optimum level (for a while). The downside of this technique is that as you use the nutrient solution in your reservoir to water your plants, and it recycles back into the reservoir in a never-ending cycle, your plants will uptake not only the nutrients that you mixed for them, they will absorb that extra Phosphorus as well. So, when using this technique, the efficiency drops as you water your plants – nothing will be as accurate as a brand-new, freshly mixed reservoir.
Changing the Game
While the info here will allow you to have a successful grow and harvest (providing you do everything else correctly), it takes time, effort, and constant monitoring to keep pH at an acceptable level to your plants. Your little green buddies will absorb nutrients at different levels during different parts of their lifespan (veg vs. flowering), so your pH will be constantly changing, and not always in the same direction. It takes a dedicated grower (or an automated system) to stay on top of this.

I mix dry kelp(algalmin or something) into my soil mixes but I have not finished any of those plants nor have I used a liquid concentrate of it. Yep leds spit out some crazy colors ..... when my tent is unzipped this shows up on my floor . The camera didnt capture it real well but the reflective material on the inside of the tent reflects and separates the light making a led rainbow



Nothing at all wrong with 5 gallon buckets, as long as they are CLEAN!!! Yeah make sure drainage is adequate and a tip either put like a 1 inch layer of perlite on the bottom of bucket's or newspaper (i prefer perlite and you will prob have some left over anyway if you use it). That way the drain holes dont get clogged, you dont want that...Really...

Hardening off

What is Hardening off? Hardening off is when you take your baby seedlings and bring them outdoors a couple hours a day before planting/potting them outside. This helps them acclimate to the new environment (especially the radiant heat from the sun), it makes it an easier transition for them as well as a preventive measure to avoid the sun from burning them

Never tried any Sensi seeds but always heard good thiings. They have been around longer then i'd say 85% of the breeders today. When it comes down to it its if you feel it has the qualities you want. Some may sound cool, like one time i ordered "Ice Cream" from Paradise seeds. AT first it was great but the novelty flavor got old very quick. You have to do research, type the strain in google with "review" at the end see what you can dig up about it. If you take the time to research and actually think about what traits you would like from your plant then your money will be well invested. I'll recommend some companies for you to check out for the future, but sensi is a fine company as I said. There are a lot of "novelty" breeders (paradise seeds isn't one but the strain kinda is ya know?) out there that can make a mediocre strain sound like the cats meow. Maybe they really believe they have something? Who knows, but check these guys out too, will list in no specific order. If anybody else wishes to contribute go ahead and i'll round them up every few days and add to the weekly round up.

Barney's coffee shop (IMO his genetics are like the "fine dining" of strains. Derry's genetics are of fine quality for sure.)
Dutch Passion (These guys been around for a while, very well known)
DNA Genetics (a little pricy not to sure about their auto's, but their photo strains are top notch)
Dina Fem (Always heard good things and more old school breeders)
World of seeds (Afghan Kush Ryder!!, Good breeders dont think they have been around too long)
Big Buddha seeds (The fucking cheese, this dude has some killer strains. Blue Cheese is lovely)

CBD crew (Excellant breeders world reknown, new and gonna give info. You'll see why sadly no Auto's yet)
CBD Crew seeds is a collaboration between Jorge Cervantes, Shantibaba from Mr Nice seeds and also Jamie from Resin seeds. This new collaboration has one focus in particular and it is one that will further the medicinal opportunities for the cannabis plant! The focus of CBD Crew seeds is to produce cannabis strains that have an equal ratio of THC to CBD. CBD Crew strains typically have 5%-6% THC and the same amount of CBD. The CBD Cannabinoid is one which is thought to have medicinal benefits with some suggesting that it is great for preventing cancer, dealing with pain and also as an anti-inflammatory medication. It has also been reported that this cannabinoid helps significantly with illnesses such as anxiety. The truth is that although we know from the testimonials of medical users what this cannabinoid is capable of, until proper research is done, we will never know the complete medicinal value that this cannabinoid represents. So far its medical application seems extremely versatile. The fantastic new seed bank CBD Crew seeds are setting the standard for future THC/CBD cannabinoid balanced cannabis seed breeders.



good read on the ruderalis strain
http://hashmuseum.com/cannabis-ruderalis

Okay I'll put in my 2 cents. I've tried 5 gal buckets in soil, and passive hydro & I have found no advantage over a 3.5 gal bucket. I've grown 100's of regulars, and have found that a final container that is taller than wide doesn't work any better than a container of equal height and width, for root spread, and from what I've read autos are even more horizontal in root growth than regulars. What I've done for my hempy's is either buy or find 3.5gal buckets or just cut off 5 gal buckets a little below the rings such that the height is just a little more than the diameter. If you look at all the larger smart pots (5, 10, or 20 gal) you will notice that they are wider than tall, same with the larger air pots. So when looking for a good container (larger) to grow in keep the height, width ratio equal or leaning towards width.

As far as light I've always worked with a square area, and most hoods are constructed this way, but a 600 will cover a 5' square area no problem. I don't believe you'll need any supplemental cfl's.


and another history lesson on ruderalis
this one is from dinafem
https://www.dinafem.org/en/blog/hist...wering-seeds/#

very good read
http://jointdoctordirect.com/faq/fre...sked-questions

and another
http://bigbudsmag.com/grow/article/m...ring-marijuana
wish i could find a actual life cycle bio
on c. ruderalis in nature but its limited i think i havent found the right common name for it most are in russian

Posted this on another thread figured i'd toss it in here too

Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesise all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including:

• a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron[SUP][2][/SUP] or magnesium [SUP][3][/SUP]
• deficient nitrogen and/or proteins[SUP][3][/SUP]
• a soil pH at which minerals become unavailable for absorption by the roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
• poor drainage (waterlogged roots) [SUP][4][/SUP]
• damaged and/or compacted roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
• pesticides and particularly herbicides may cause chlorosis, both to target weeds and occasionally to the crop being treated.[SUP][5][/SUP]
• exposure to sulphur dioxide[SUP][6][/SUP]
• ozone injury to sensitive plants [2]

Interveinal chlorosis is almost always associated with a nutrient imbalance. This may either be due to a deficiency of a specific element or to a pH Imbalance in the soil which inhibits a plants ability to absorb nutrients. While the treatment is the same for both, you may still want to select from the list of additional symptoms in order to search for the precise cause of your African Violet's symptoms. Keep in mind, however, that due to the complex interaction between plant nutrients, pinpointing the precise cause will probably be very difficult. Often, an excess of one element will cause a deficiency in one or more other elements, and vice versa. Moreover, it may be that your African Violet is getting the proper balance of nutrients, but an imbalance in the soil pH is inhibiting its ability to absorb them. Thus, short of sending your plant to a laboratory for testing, you will probably have to be satisfied with simply knowing that your African Violet suffers a nutrient imbalance without knowing exactly why.



Just posted this in another thread as well... really grab a bottle just to have if your growing indoor for sure.

Even if it wasnt PM I say buy this just to have. This will completely get rid of the PM, awesome stuff. screw sulfur burners..

http://www.greenwaynutrients.com/lea...powdery-mildew



kinda lol'd a bit

check out gerorge cervantes how to grow videos and do plenty of reading. Also look at prices for decent gear when you are thinking about what kind of set up you want to get/ run there will be quite a high initial investment cost and high running costs esp. with 3 big HPS which then have to be cooled and so on. Make sure you have the money to get everything to grow and keep that grow going before you start buying anything or planning too much.

we will start with ripeness. most people say to check your trichromes with 30X magnification. i have other ways. when buds are done they look "done". the appearance of the bud changes. the leaves start to hook upwards and become hard and crispy. the calyxes will swell and the hairs will turn brown. you can see a golden tinge to the bud leaves. this is the amber crystals. they start to turn amber on the leaves first.



not ready..........





ready.......






notice the difference? it's pretty easy to see once it occurs.

Ready Set grow
Vol.1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dECnYjf5ABQ
Vol.2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4cVm...EAF25EB9A832C5


jorge cervantes ultimate grow
vol.1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-dkX6dsEHQ
vol.2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MY66GdaQb4Q
vol.3 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYxVrE6mLM4

Seemorebuds
vol.1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8rl3TyFpWk
vol.2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mgBJj8VTK0
vol.3 - will post when i find it

Watch these and you will have a better understanding of pretty much anything you might be wondering.

Click to expand...

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[SIZE=-1] Inert Ingredients Fish Oil .............92.0%[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Emulsifiers..........3.0%[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1] Total.................100.0% [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Exempt from EPA registration Patent Pending [/SIZE]
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