Advanced Autoflower Training, tips, secrets

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
This is supposed to be good stuff, can spray up to the day of harvest.



http://www.arborgrow.com/organocide.htm
I don't like being the wet blanket, but here's the research / trials I've done. There are many types of oils to fight mites and other pests. Peppermint, strawberry, etc, SN product expensive oils, Neem, and on and on. They are all organic, and they all leave a film. If you are against spraying neem oil in flower, then you really won't like fish oil.

And out of all the different oils I've tried neem work just as good if not much better than some, and seems to leave less of a footprint (even if used in flower) Here's a neem based product which isn't organic but works really well, and is much cheaper than hydro store snake oil. Ferti-Lome
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
ive had old timers tell me to mix neem water and a few drops of dish soap
i would assume the dish soap is to break up the oils so they dont leave as thick a film
never tried it
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
Ok so having problems with on of my babies
i know this strain is a cal-mag whore and have been supplementing at 1/2 str cal-mag
doesnt seem to be enough
What you guys think ?
2013-06-09 20.55.49.jpg2013-06-09 20.55.30.jpg2013-06-09 20.55.11.jpg2013-06-09 20.54.54.jpg
Its worse on older leaves
i do have gnats but its not like crazy i see one or 2 every couple of days
and its only this plant
so ive eliminated pests





2012-09-20 17.50.07.jpg <~~~ i asked that dude and he didnt know WTF i was talking about
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Can try adding some epsom salts as a different source of mag

Lil buddy is just posted up there chillin lol. That you grow room guard?
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
i have 3 of them
i got them for my chick but they bonded with me
they live for like 15-20 years
and thats the mean one lol but he's my little buddy
raids the grow box o_O
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
and i upped the dose to full str on cal-mag not to big in salts but if this doesnt work i will give it a shot
i been giving them all thrive-alive b1
i thought that was like super thrive isnt that just epsom
EDIT thrive-alive b1 organic is just a kelp,B1,and natural fertilizer is what it says
 

technical dan

Active Member
yes neem + (hot) water + dish soap will create a film where it is sprayed it works well and is one method I use to combat/ control insects
 

fanofpanic

Well-Known Member
ive had old timers tell me to mix neem water and a few drops of dish soap
i would assume the dish soap is to break up the oils so they dont leave as thick a film
never tried it
Only method i've ever known to use and works like a charm, especially as a preventative measure...just be careful with the amount of dish soap and use organic and/or non perfumed if possible.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
LED guys whats your thought on this

I was wondering, will a 90 watt UFO LED light replace a 400 watt HPS [High-pressure sodium]? I have read a little bit online but I can't seem to get a straight answer.
Thanks,
Looking for LED Answers

Dear "Looking,"
Thank you for your question. I have experimented with many of the LED lights on the market; including some of the higher-end 400-600 watt (actual draw) models and a few of the UFO models.
In theory, 90 watts of LED light should replace 400 watts of HID [High-intensity discharge, like HPS and MH], because the LED light will emit 100% usable light while the 400 watt HID light wastes much of its energy in heat and emitting light spectrums less necessary for photosynthesis.
However, in my experience, the LEDs worked well at growing plants but, when compared watt-for-watt with HID lights, they performed about the same. Throughout my experiments with LED lights, I found LEDs save maybe 10 percent in energy draw to produce the same results as HID lights (some did slightly better than others).
In other words, in my experience, 90 watts of LEDs would compare to about 100 watts of HID. The real benefit of horticultural LEDs is the low heat signature and bulb longevity; both of which save operation costs. Eventually, the cost to the consumer will drop and multi-spectrum, customizable LED lighting units will revolutionize the horticultural lighting industry.
So, in short: no, in my opinion, a 90w UFO LED will not replace a 400w HPS.
Got that from a diff site.
 

technical dan

Active Member
only spray it on the top of the soil/ substrate. do not spray dish soap on to the leaves or use in folair feeding, the film will coat the leaves n stomata and choke the plant. Some people spray neem on leaves for bug problems in veg but neem oil sticks around so I only spray it on top of the substrate. You do not want to spray neem oil on a flowering plant first the neem will stay around and be on your buds when you harvest and it can also herm plants by preventing gas exchange
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Was just reading this, it talks about neem, i never used the stuff myself. Only bug prob i had was a few years back before i stopped growing for a bit. White flies came in and made themselves home. Was almost harvest tme so i didnt care too much. But anyway heres the info :D

One of the most counterproductive aspects of growing high-quality medical marijuana is the use of insecticides and fungicides. Growers whose primary concern is producing a quality medicine for their patients understand the dangers of spraying toxic chemicals onto plant material that will eventually be consumed. Yet even the most meticulous growers find themselves batting unwanted pathogens at some point in their growing careers and it becomes inevitable that they must treat their gardens with something. This is why so many of them are looking to natural and organic pesticides that breakdown quickly and are safe for human consumption.
A popular natural treatment used by medical marijuana growers is neem oil. For years growers have been using neem oil as a treatment for various insects and fungus. More recently the active ingredient in neem, azadirachtin, has been isolated and used as the active ingredient in many commercially available pesticides. What really makes azadirachtin so effective is the way it works.
Azadirachtin is an organic substance that belongs to the class of organic molecules classified as tetranortriterpenoids. Azadirachtin is structurally similar to insect hormones called ecdysones. Ecdysones are the hormones that control the process of metamorphosis as the insect changes from larva to pupa to adult. Although they don&#8217;t know for sure, scientists believe azadirachtin acts as a &#8220;ecdysone blocker.&#8221; Because azadirachtin disrupts the unique role ecdysones play in metamorphosis, the insects are unable to molt and their life cycle is broken. Azadirachtin also works as a feeding deterrent. Many insect varieties seem to be able to sense the azadirachtin on the plants and refuse to feed.
Products that contain azadirachtin are a great choice for the conscientious medical marijuana grower. If you choose to go the azadirachtin route, there are a few things you should be aware of. First, azadirachtin is not a contact killer like many other insecticides. The insects must absorb or ingest some of the compound to be affected. Depending on the particular pest&#8217;s life cycle it could take as long as 5-7 days to see the results from the first treatment.
Another important thing to note when using azadirachtin is that multiple treatments are usually required for complete eradication. This is especially true when there is a serious pest infestation. Plan on treating your garden at least three times, usually with three to seven days between treatments. For total coverage, an atomizer sprayer works best. Watch for leaves that appear wrinkled as this is a sign that the stomata are getting clogged. If this occurs, rinse the leaves with luke warm water and then continue the treatment program once the leaves appear normal again.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Found this interesting


Why pH Effects Nutrient Uptake In Medical Marijuana


Hydroponic medical marijuana growers have heard of and probably seen the effect pH has on a plant&#8217;s ability to uptake nutrients (and therefore grow), but few hydroponic growers understand why the pH directly affects nutrient uptake. The pH range of your water, nutrients and medium all play a direct role in your plant&#8217;s ability to absorb macro, micro, secondary nutrients and carbohydrates. As with most important factors associated with hydroponic growing, the effects of pH can be seen in the building blocks of cellular growth: the proteins, amino acids and microorganisms.

The Science Behind pH Effecting Nutrient Uptake

It is difficult for nutrients to enter the plant&#8217;s roots on their own because of a protective membrane around plant cells that make it virtually impossible for water soluble ions to penetrate. In order for the nutrients to enter the membrane they are carried into the plant via special transporters. These transporters are protein molecules that enter the cell membranes. It is these proteins that allow the nutrient ions to actually enter the plant cells. Every essential nutrient has particular transporter proteins that are responsible for bringing that nutrient into the plant. Proteins are rich in ionizable chemical compounds and makes their functions dependent on pH levels. There is an optimal pH range for each protein and therefore a corresponding optimal pH range for the absorption of every given essential nutrient. This is why we can determine optimal pH ranges for any particular plant species. Depending on the nutritional needs of a given crop we can determine the best pH range to accommodate the proteins associated with the particular essential elements. The ideal pH range for medical marijuana is 5.5-6.3.
Nutrient uptake is also determined by the beneficial microorganisms found in a plant&#8217;s rhizosphere or in the growing medium. These beneficial organisms need a consistent pH range to function properly. When pH strays from the desired range an environment that promotes pathogenic microorganisms or slows the processes of beneficial organisms will occur.

The Best pH For Growing Marijuana

As previously mentioned, in order for medical marijuana growers to maintain optimal nutrient uptake it is suggested to keep the pH range between 5.5-6.3. This sweet spot ensures your plants will receive every essential element and at the highest absorption rate possible. It also ensures a good environment for the beneficial microorganism activity in and around your plant&#8217;s rhizosphere. Without proper pH levels, growers limit their success and end up wasting time and money. Growers who maintain optimal pH ranges combined with quality nutrients and supplements can expect vigorous growth and bountiful yields that will live up to the expectations of the most rigorous of hydroponic gardeners.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
Lol dick hash? No thanks

Hash is the most ancient cannabis concentrate and probably the most widely used. At one point in the Middle East, hash was made by making slaves run naked through the cannabis fields and then scraping their bodies for all collected product. Ouch! Nowadays, most hash is being made using a process called cold water extraction, but can be as simple as pressing the kief into solid form.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
only spray it on the top of the soil/ substrate. do not spray dish soap on to the leaves or use in folair feeding, the film will coat the leaves n stomata and choke the plant. Some people spray neem on leaves for bug problems in veg but neem oil sticks around so I only spray it on top of the substrate. You do not want to spray neem oil on a flowering plant first the neem will stay around and be on your buds when you harvest and it can also herm plants by preventing gas exchange
Wrong,,,, neem will not cause hermi's. It's a natural plant polish that's been around for centuries. The plant can breath through the neem oil. I spray it on my plants weekly from the 1st real node to the end of wk 1 of flower, and have never had a hermi. Hermi's are mainy genetic, I've tried several times to herm a stable strain, because they were clone only, and I haven't succeeded yet, always ended up using chemicals.

It does no good to spray the soil with neem to fight bugs, the oil needs to be sprayed directly onto the bugs to be effective. They can crawl all over a coated plant if they were not coated during the spray.
 
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