Advanced Nutrients and "grower level"

gota think science and duplicate the formula not for sale just loved that shit they still got voodu juice that shit is supper bomb just wished they get it together of course there are so many quality nutrients out thier but i do aroeponics and it changes things in this department!!! ow ya over drive is nice too i like that stuff but it doesnt work with house and garden shooting powder its to strong i use others in combo with the experiment i have done dutch masters old forumula was just as good the floration a and b base..

JustCurious79 said:

In the AN feed chart/calculator (http://www.advancednutrients.com/hydroponics/calc/) we see that they have PLENTY of nutrients to chose from, depending on your grow level. Hobbyists give only grow, micro, bloom, Voodoo Juice, B-52, Big Bud and Overdrive during flowering. Is there any significant increase in yield by using a higher level of feeding you think?

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Well, here's what my experience has been.

Yes, using more products can help to refine your grow and make it even better, but to what end? If you're growing for yourself, then go for the basic setup with the Hobbyist bundle. This will give you super results, without costing you mucho dinero.

And when you can, then add in the fancy bits. I personally don't need them right now, but I know folks who are into the MMJ scene and they are using the full lineup to get higher quality end results.

It's really better to make the choice based on your goals, IMHO

I think ive run about 70 lites of PHP. so far.
The PH still needs set.After set it holds PH pretty rock solid.Always check and ajust if needed your PH no matter what system of nutes you use..Its just good growing practices..like keeping your shop clean.And preventative bug and other maint.
The plants are doing well with it so long as i do not mix it with other companys products.Or with bud blood.
PH fluctuations can be caused by the water source.Or the growing media.
I do not use RO water because of the amount of it i have to use and the waste water drain off.It may make a difference in how the PH reacts.(sure it does)

I do use a tall boy sediment and chlorine filter.
ANs veg juice is second to nobody's gear,All you need is it a few bennies or zone from time to time..a little drop of superthrive and your ladys will be green pretty and proud as fuck.
Setting the ladys up right in the veg room is critical to their success in the bud room.You want them transferring over healthy with close nodal spacing and large a root system as possible.
Trained and topped also.
Try to always veg a plant in a small container than you grow in.The plant does think..it has timing light and senses ..just like you.But unlike you it has no deductive reasoning..it just reacts to what you do to it..good or bad.It reacts fast.If you do something to a plant normally withing three days you can see what it caused.
Reason you should transplant your plant into a larger container for bud is the plant senses that its time to bud.At his point the roots will want to expand and grow.They will sense the extra space and fill it up and you will get proper stretch and vertical height.
If you veg in the same size container you bloom in the roots fill in the container before it ever is put into bud..then the roots have no place to go.The plant knows this and senses it.So it doesnt grow proper because it knows it doesnt have the room to do it in.

Idk only time I ever checked Ph was first grow and it caused more problem and worry than anything..its not really flying blind in a 5 gallon pot its pretty hard to throw the Ph out of the preferred range for cannabis when using a recommended feed chart through the grow with Ph balanced media and nutes imo..you know what your doing and you can tinker around with it within reason and not cause any problem

Kermit i have found it depends allot on water quality what your PH does.
Growers who grow in soil if they do not buffer for PH can have HUGE problems.
As a hydro grower i like to have a pretty stable PH but i still want it ranging some..or moving some through out the ranges that it uptakes different nutes.
Some of what a plant needs is uptake through several ph ranges..although they are slight it does make a difference in what the plant can uptake of what you are feeding.
If the PH ranges some it will uptake what it needs as it drifts through the range.
I like to see the ph drift from around 5.6 to 6.4 .If you were to look at a ph feed chart you would notice that it takes up some of its feed at certain PH ranges..and feeds for other nutes through other PH ranges.As the range drifts some the plant takes up what it needs from the PH drifting.Just a sad example..but the best one i can think of off of hand.
Lets say it takes up P at 5.6..but the plant will uptake K at 6.If the ph does not range it will miss points that it will better uptake the nutes it wants at 6 if it stays put at 5.6.
This is for example purposes only ..
It only takes a few seconds to PH your soup.Its just good growing practice.

max420thc said:

Kermit i have found it depends allot on water quality what your PH does.
Growers who grow in soil if they do not buffer for PH can have HUGE problems.
As a hydro grower i like to have a pretty stable PH but i still want it ranging some..or moving some through out the ranges that it uptakes different nutes.
Some of what a plant needs is uptake through several ph ranges..although they are slight it does make a difference in what the plant can uptake of what you are feeding.
If the PH ranges some it will uptake what it needs as it drifts through the range.
I like to see the ph drift from around 5.6 to 6.4 .If you were to look at a ph feed chart you would notice that it takes up some of its feed at certain PH ranges..and feeds for other nutes through other PH ranges.As the range drifts some the plant takes up what it needs from the PH drifting.Just a sad example..but the best one i can think of off of hand.
Lets say it takes up P at 5.6..but the plant will uptake K at 6.If the ph does not range it will miss points that it will better uptake the nutes it wants at 6 if it stays put at 5.6.
This is for example purposes only ..
It only takes a few seconds to PH your soup.Its just good growing practice.

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I disagree. I think coco grows should be phd if the ph is way off but soil nahh. Add bennies and watch it auto pilot. You can grow your hydro over seven no prob either. A good 6 starting point in hydro and a two week rez change no matter (almost) how small the rez is, is fine. Unless the rez is drifting two points in 14 days. Otherwise i dont f with it.

Ya I mean my Ph never falls far enough from nutrient uptake ranges to ever cause any type of lockout or issue..I see what your saying max about why not check it because of uptake ranges but in soil you just don't leave that range if you start right..your inaccurate about water being the lead factor in Ph fluctuation in soil grows, the water is not enough to throw the Ph of your whole pot of medium, I think mistakes and no experience are the leading cause of Ph fluctuation so to each his own but I don't get myself all flustered with Ph readings when through handfuls of grows its never been the tell cause of any problem