Advice And Must Haves For The Noobs

researching

Well-Known Member
Hey all. This is a thread for the things that in my opinion are essential to a non troublesome grow. Any input from seasoned growers is welcome. Let me start this by saying that I have learned the hard way so to speak. And one of the biggest things I have learned is LIGHT. Also PH and PPM's are paramount in my opinion.

The latter 2 can be had for cheap on ebay. Honestly for the time, trouble, and risk, unless you save and spend the money on these 3 key elements then I would not even grow. Knowing what I know now.

Save and buy decent/good lighting. You can veg very well with T5's or for the money T8's. A 6 bulb T-8 fixture you wire yourself plus extra bulbs in the 6500K range from Home Depot is about a C-note. Worth it!!! Make sure your lights are no too far from your plants.

Buy a PH meter and TDS/PPM meter. These are key!

Learn what your growing medium requires for PH and optimum uptake. I love coco and perlite. Very forgiving and easy as long as you use the right PH and use CaliMagic or CalMag. Plus nearly impossible to overwater. ( a common noob mistake)

Always err on the side of caution when it comes to nutrients. By that I mean go light until you know what your plants like or you have some experience.

Don't feed seedlings or clones until established unless you are you are using a root developing supplement. I use MB Ferts Clone Solution. Then I switch to a very light nute schedule.

Learn what the signs of overfertilization look like. I used to run plants that just had the leaf tips turn brown. This is ok as it means you are on the threshold of too many nutes. Tip curling or "eagle claw" is too many nutes. Now my leaves are flat and have no brown tips which is ideal.

Do not overwater. Learn to judge when watering is needed by lifting the pots.

Do not grow in an undersized pot. General rule is for every 12" of height you need a one gallon pot. So a 3' plant needs a 3gal pot. Not taking stretch into consideration.

READ, READ, READ. No one can do this for you. Educate yourself and you will be continually rewarded. Hence my name.

Temperature control. If you run CO2 then higher temps are acceptable. Otherwise keep your temps below 80 with lights on. IMO low 70's is ideal. I cannot attain this in the summer.

Air circulation. Move that air! Do not allow a stagnant environment.

Pest control. Observe your plants and learn the signs of pests. DO NOT let them get out of control.

Marijuana is a weed but do not treat it as such. It is a needy plant that until you get a good regimen down will be a needy bitch. You must care for her and be attentive.

Your plants will stretch when put into flower. Some can stretch quite substantially. Plan and veg accordingly.

Learn to judge harvest based upon trichome development/color. Harvest according to desired high.

Flushing is optional but suggested. Generally the last 2 weeks before harvest. This can be tough to gauge without experience or solid knowledge of harvest time. Start flushing when you see cloudy trichomes but no amber. This is subjective and up to personal preference.

Don't have an anxiety attack. Easy to say, harder to do. Take care of your babies but don't be over protective so to speak. Less is more until you know. By that I mean under water, under fertilize until you know and can see what they need. Too much is bad.

Marijuana is quite easy to grow but you must be aware of all that is going on and that a little screw up can be the difference between a great yield and smoke or not.

This covers growing only and will be edited as needed. Harvesting/drying/curing are just as important as growing and can make or break all your time and work. Essentially all steps of the process are important in regards to health, yield, and quality.
 
Last edited:

Alaric

Well-Known Member
Hey all. This is a thread for the things that in my opinion are essential to a non troublesome grow. Any input from seasoned growers is welcome. Let me start this by saying that I have learned the hard way so to speak. And one of the biggest things I have learned is LIGHT. Also PH and PPM's are paramount in my opinion.

The latter 2 can be had for cheap on ebay. Honestly for the time, trouble, and risk, unless you save and spend the money on these 3 key elements then I would not even grow. Knowing what I know now.

Save and buy decent/good lighting. You can veg very well with T5's or for the money T8's. A 6 bulb T-8 fixture you wire yourself plus extra bulbs in the 6500K range from Home Depot is about a C-note. Worth it!!! Make sure your lights are no too far from your plants.

Buy a PH meter and TDS/PPM meter. These are key!

Learn what your growing medium requires for PH and optimum uptake. I love coco and perlite. Very forgiving and easy as long as you use the right PH and use CaliMagic or CalMag. Plus nearly impossible to overwater. ( a common noob mistake)

Always err on the side of caution when it comes to nutrients. By that I mean go light until you know what your plants like or you have some experience.

Don't feed seedlings or clones until established unless you are you are using a root developing supplement. I use MB Ferts Clone Solution. Then I switch to a very light nute schedule.

Learn what the signs of overfertilization look like. I used to run plants that just had the leaf tips turn brown. This is ok as it means you are on the threshold of too many nutes. Tip curling or "eagle claw" is too many nutes. Now my leaves are flat and have no brown tips which is ideal.

Do not overwater. Learn to judge when watering is needed by lifting the pots.

Do not grow in an undersized pot. General rule is for every 12" of height you need a one gallon pot. So a 3' plant needs a 3gal pot. Not taking stretch into consideration.

READ, READ, READ. No one can do this for you. Educate yourself and you will be continually rewarded. Hence my name.

Temperature control. If you run CO2 then higher temps are acceptable. Otherwise keep your temps below 80 with lights on. IMO low 70's is ideal. I cannot attain this in the summer.

Air circulation. Move that air! Do not allow a stagnant environment.

Pest control. Observe your plants and learn the signs of pests. DO NOT let them get out of control.

Marijuana is a weed but do not treat it as such. It is a needy plant that until you get a good regimen down will be a needy bitch. You must care for her and be attentive.

Your plants will stretch when put into flower. Some can stretch quite substantially. Plan and veg accordingly.

Learn to judge harvest based upon trichome development/color. Harvest according to desired high.

Flushing is optional but suggested. Generally the last 2 weeks before harvest. This can be tough to gauge without experience or solid knowledge of harvest time. Start flushing when you see cloudy trichomes but no amber. This is subjective and up to personal preference.

Don't have an anxiety attack. Easy to say, harder to do. Take care of your babies but don't be over protective so to speak. Less is more until you know. By that I mean under water, under fertilize until you know and can see what they need. Too much is bad.

Marijuana is quite easy to grow but you must be aware of all that is going on and that a little screw up can be the difference between a great yield and smoke or not.

This covers growing only and will be edited as needed. Harvesting/drying/curing are just as important as growing and can make or break all your time and work. Essentially all steps of the process are important in regards to health, yield, and quality.
Very impressive post :clap::clap::clap:

I only wish I knew then what I know now----but would the journey have been as much fun?
 

Dave124

Member
yoyoyo!
I'm growing 3 og Kush its my second grow so I'm still very inexperienced
I'm growing them in coco and b with boost
using two 600 watt lights with extractor fan and oscillating fan
on one of the plants the very top leaves are going purple but only the top leaves! and doesn't seem to be affecting there growth any ideas what it is?
theres roughly about 2 weeks left in flower
was told they bulk a lot in the last two weeks is that right?
how do they look?
thanks guys and girls I no I'm asking lot of questions but really would appreciate any feedback at all good or bad!
 

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Jdogg711

Active Member
yoyoyo!
I'm growing 3 og Kush its my second grow so I'm still very inexperienced
I'm growing them in coco and b with boost
using two 600 watt lights with extractor fan and oscillating fan
on one of the plants the very top leaves are going purple but only the top leaves! and doesn't seem to be affecting there growth any ideas what it is?
theres roughly about 2 weeks left in flower
was told they bulk a lot in the last two weeks is that right?
how do they look?
thanks guys and girls I no I'm asking lot of questions but really would appreciate any feedback at all good or bad!
They really do look amazing! Good work!
 

smokefacekillah

Well-Known Member
before this turns to a showoff thread, you can't forget that hydro is more easy than soil, because if any issues arrive you can immediately fix it, and it shows in the plant faster.

Also you totally don't need any chemicals, gels, or powders to clone, all you need is tap water and a razor blade, I've been doing this for 2 years straight !
 

Dave124

Member
dont no if you wrote that on the wrong thread or not but nones showing off here mate we are just showing each other our grows! mate u aint had any smoke today! but chill man
 

Dave124

Member
Here is one I got a few weeks from harvest. I'm a noobie so I hurt her alittle. They will swell up right before your very eyes the last few weeks from my understanding.Peace
nothing wrong with that for your first grow mate! the way I see it is we will get better and better evrygrow
 

pseudobotanist

Well-Known Member
I'm going to weigh in on flushing...

flushing doesn't work the way it's regurgitated on these forums.

1. You cannot remove "artificial fertilizers" from the plant itself.

2. You can flush (leech) salts that are built up in the soil.

3. Wether you use synthetic or organic ferts, the plant doesn't give a shit. Organic ferts are slow release and arnt readily available. microbes break that down into an inorganic form which is usable for your plant. Synthetics are immediately available for use by your plant.

4. Wether you choose to flush or not, your dry and curing process is what affects the flavor of your product.

5. Idk why anyone would choose to starve your plant from nutes a couple of weeks before harvest. That is one of the most critical points in your plants life and you want to stop feeding it?

6. Last but not least, flushing will starve the root zone of oxygen, think about what happens when you overwater. No oxygen to the roots and your plant starts to die. The benefit from that is that you will actually begin the curing process while your plant is alive.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

Read that and take from it what you can, or ignore it and keep doing what you believe is best for you
 

Dave124

Member
I'm going to weigh in on flushing...

flushing doesn't work the way it's regurgitated on these forums.

1. You cannot remove "artificial fertilizers" from the plant itself.

2. You can flush (leech) salts that are built up in the soil.

3. Wether you use synthetic or organic ferts, the plant doesn't give a shit. Organic ferts are slow release and arnt readily available. microbes break that down into an inorganic form which is usable for your plant. Synthetics are immediately available for use by your plant.

4. Wether you choose to flush or not, your dry and curing process is what affects the flavor of your product.

5. Idk why anyone would choose to starve your plant from nutes a couple of weeks before harvest. That is one of the most critical points in your plants life and you want to stop feeding it?

6. Last but not least, flushing will starve the root zone of oxygen, think about what happens when you overwater. No oxygen to the roots and your plant starts to die. The benefit from that is that you will actually begin the curing process while your plant is alive.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

Read that and take from it what you can, or ignore it and keep doing what you believe is best for you
nice advice mate
 

pseudobotanist

Well-Known Member
N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first

Add sulfates(use ferts in sulfate form) they help with Trichomes production
-potassium sulfate
-calcium sulfate
- magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt)

If you're growing indoors add some UV lighting during veg and flower since it also helps with Trichomes production.

Also heat helps with Trichomes production as well there are a few threads around here experimenting with that.

A mixed spectrum is better than just one light source

Preventative maintenance is the best when it comes to dealing with pests

Use neem oil as a drench or foliar spray even when you don't see bugs.
Other things to use are pytherins, spinosad, and BT.

Focus on dialing your garden, that's the key to getting a good product.

And last but not least, learn a proper dry and cure. You can grow the best damn looking plant and fuck it all up when you harvest it. Why waste all your months of labor at the very end?
 

researching

Well-Known Member
Like any and all advice given, some is gospel, some is personal opinion. The key is finding what works for you. There will always be yay's and nay's for certain techniques and procedures, but if you are producing a good product then whatever you are doing is the "right" thing.

In regards to flushing there are a couple ways one can go about it. Copious amounts of water run through medium. Or tapering off/eliminating nutes and watering with ph'd water so the plants use up what is left in your medium. The latter does not starve the plants. It really comes down to what if any method you want to employ and what your conditions require.
 
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