AeroJunkie's High Pressure Air-Assisted Hydro-Atomized Aeroponic System (HPAAHAAS)

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
There are few people out there who have the desire to take on HP aero. There are even fewer dabbling in Air-Atomized Aeroponics. If you have arrived to this thread, by now you have a good grasp on HP Aeroponics vs MP or NFT/Aero hybrid systems. If you don't, there is a plethora of info elsewhere as I don't care for semantics.

Rather than journaling my system I'd like to open this topic up to interested growers of all types as there is currently no thread (I am aware of) that is dedicated specifically to Air Atomized systems. I am not a discriminating grower and I don't want to limit this thread to "advanced growers" as I do not consider myself to be one. This is only my second system, the first being a multiple 12' x 6" aerotube design with numerous flaws. There are always kinks that need to be worked out in a design, but imo that's half the fun.

Many of you may be surprised and somewhat disappointed when you notice the leaves on my plants aren't what your used to seeing on this forum. I am a strong advocate for constitutional freedoms and the abolishment of the drug war entirely (vote Ron Paul), but I have too much invested in this "hobby" to have some self-righteous, gun-toting, power-tripping, trigger-happy, small-balled, uneducated member of our police state kicking down my door and shooting my dogs at 3 o'clock in the morning.:finger:

That being said... don't judge. Just kick back, put your feet up, keep the drama to yourself, and enjoy the show.
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
To begin, I allocated a small space in my garage (13' 6" x 14')for the grow site. My perimeter walls are 2x6 metal framed with r19 insulation. The partition wall is 2x4 metal framed with no insulation. One exterior window was insulated and rocked. Doors are both exterior insulated metal with wood frame.

2x4 filtered air supply was installed into perimeter wall to provide fresh filtered air through light hoods. Air enters from garage space and exhausts into attic space. Supplemental AC is provided by two window ac units. I would have much preferred mini split units but the window units were free.

All penetrations, gaps, crevices, etc were taped, sealed, foamed and covered to provide a completely closed environment. Greenboard was used for lower half of the interior walls and all walls were painted Ultra Pure Flat white.

Flat White will reflect up to 90% of light as opposed to 95% that clean stretched Mylar will reflect. Mylar however is difficult to stretch, and impossible to keep clean. I recommend flat white on all walls and surfaces. For the scrupulous individuals out there, you can purchase a titanium white pigment to add to flat white to get over 95% reflectivity.:hump:
 

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Mike Young

Well-Known Member
So, we gonna get to see your rig? I would like to go air assisted one day. Maybe when those nozzles drop in price by $100 or so. Looking forward to seeing more!
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Because this system is designed as a perpetual grow, my coffins are a bit different in both size and design. Both chambers have a 1/4" slope. The root barrier is a combination of egg crate troffer lenses supporting a nylon mesh. I may eventually swap the nylon for silk screen but the nylon is more rigid and easy to clean. The chambers are both designed to drain into condensate pumps, but the veg chamber can also be hard piped to the exterior of the building.

The dimensions of the veg chamber are 2x4x8 OD. The walls and deck are made of 2lb polystyrene foam with polystyrene sheeting for a vapor block. The lids are 3 lb polystyrene with Poly sheeting on the inside and FRP mounted on top to diffuse light more evenly. Spacing is 6"x6" inline. I should have staggered the pots but I have a few more plants to squeeze in with the tighter spacing. The lids are supported by SS brackets. The exterior is wrapped in mylar bubble insulation to prevent light seepage. This chamber is mounted on a 4x8 cart with casters for easy maneuverability.

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Here are a few pics of the nozzles in action.

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The Flower Chamber is approximately 3x4x8 and is wood framed with polystyrene insulation and sheeting. The lids are the same as the veg chamber supported by SS brackets but spacing between plants is 1'x1' staggered. The exterior is covered in Masonite and it is also mounted on casters.

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aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
So, we gonna get to see your rig? I would like to go air assisted one day. Maybe when those nozzles drop in price by $100 or so. Looking forward to seeing more!
Pics and info are on the way Mike. The best way to explain AA vs HP is, now that you are running HP I doubt you will go back to Soil, F&D, DWC, or NFT. The same goes for myself, I just add HP Hydro to the list. The cost is a little more, but honestly you can swap out your HP system to AA for under 300.00. You can do it for less if you already have a compressor. Oil-less or not. Of course it wont be very silent.

This is going to take quite a bit of time to post all pics and info. I will go as quick as I can but right now I'm gona take a break and catch a flick. Stay tuned...
 

Mike Young

Well-Known Member
Wow! I am amazed at your craftsmanship. Very clean! I'm jealous. You've build my dream system, and probably did a better job than anybody (myself included) could fathom. Tip 'O my hat, sir. Look forward to more!
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Many minutes went into the design and fabrication of my light hoods. They started out as 12' x 3.5' stainless steel fixed hoods with 8" ducts. I fabricated them for my first grow to remain stationary while my canopy levels were adjusted (you never know until you try). After scrapping that entire system I went on to refab them into their current design.

Both hoods are wired with magnetic ballasts. I would like to eventually go digital but my current ballasts are bulletproof and cost nothing. The glass lenses on both hoods are tempered and have been sealed with silicone to prevent loss of atmospheric CO2 levels. Air tight access doors were installed in order to change bulbs and clean lenses when necessary. The ducts are 10" with inline dampers. The exhaust system runs on a single 12" inline vortex fan which is currently overkill. The reflective areas of the hoods were also painted flat white.

The veg hood is 8' by 3.5' and houses 6 sockets. I'm currently running 6x 6500k 400 watt MH magnetic ballasts. This hood is set up with a reduction gear drive and block system to allow raising and lowering of the hood with the push of a button. :cool:

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The Flower hood is a bit more complex. The hood is wired with 6x 250 watt HPS bulbs and 2x 400 watt MH. These bulbs are spaced appropriately to get the most evenly distributed lumens and avoid potential hot spots. The 400 MH are there to increase the available blue spectrum in order to strengthen the stalks of the plants (in theory). My buddy came across an 8' retractable projector screen so I threw that up as well to reflect light. This hood is also rigged with an automated block and pulley system. I really need to post a youtube video because its pretty bitchen. Oh, and I built two of these hoods.:mrgreen:

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aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Wow! I am amazed at your craftsmanship. Very clean! I'm jealous. You've build my dream system, and probably did a better job than anybody (myself included) could fathom. Tip 'O my hat, sir. Look forward to more!
Thanks Mike, but there's more... I haven't even gotten to my automated nutrient system.
 

dickkhead

Active Member
That's an awesome setup looking forward to following! What's your pressure, type of most heads, and timing cycle?
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Nozzles are one of the most financially deterring items for individuals because they can definitely be expensive. There are multiple companies who manufacture the design that I prefer. A few of them are; Bete, Spraying Systems, and Relab (china)

After selling my JAU nozzles from Spraying Systems, I currently have 2 of their J style flat fan nozzles and 6 wide angle full cone nozzles from Relab. The Relab nozzles are dependable but it is obvious that their manufacturing processes are not as stringent as Spraying Systems or Bete. What this means is often times their flow rates do not match the manufacturers specs. In fact, if you put two of their nozzles side by side you can visually see a different flow pattern. The benefit of Relab however is they are a hellofalot cheaper than other manufacturers. If one does decide to purchase from Relab, be sure (if in the US) to order NPT threads rather than BSP as it is obviously easier to find fittings. Also, their spray tips are not interchangeable with Spraying Systems.

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There are other nozzle manufacturers as well. I am aware that Fatman was/is using siphon style nozzles from Delavan. He personally recommended them and says he had good results. I prefer air/hydro pressurized nozzles for more easily adjusted control. This brings us to pressure. Now the major difference between Hydraulic nozzles in HP systems is there is only one pressure regulator controlling flow. Because my nozzles require pressurized air and water, I have more control over droplet size, and flow. Flow can be adjusted by lowering or raising the settings of both air and fluid while droplet size can be adjusted by raising or lowering either air or water in relation to the other. Flow can also be adjusted initially by the size of air and fluid caps that are ordered. My pressures never exceed 70 PSI on fluid and 60 PSI on air. They do vary from chamber to chamber however. On cycle is from 2-4 sec on depending on pressures and chamber sizes and range from 1:45 - 3:00 off.

The entire system runs easily on a Gast 4 cylinder oil-less compressor. Now I am running 6 nozzles max at any given time but this compressor can easily run twice that many. If a person only wanted to run a single nozzle and they were not concerned about noise or the length of time the compressor runs, you can easily run a harbor freight pancake compressor on 1 or even 2 nozzles. The reason this is possible is because of the recovery time during the off cycle. If you already have a compressor but it is not oil-less, you can always add an inline oil coalescer.

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jesicalorren

Well-Known Member
before i get n e further i just found the thread and was reading it and i get to post 7 and daaaaaaaamn .. im very interested now , i know those reflectors mean buisness holy crap thats sweet!!
 

aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
I just now read a thread entitled "Clarification on Aeroponics" and obviously there are still more questions, disagreements, and arguments regarding "True Aeroponics". In all honesty, I did contemplate quite a bit as to whether or not I wanted to put a dog in this fight. Here goes anyway. My goal in this post will be to clarify the facets of Aeroponics vs other systems to the point that it can no longer be argued. Bold Statement I know.

Aeroponics, True Aeroponics or even Aeroculture are all the same thing as there is no such thing as Faux or Fake Aeroponics. A fake system would not grow plants. The only fake Aeroponic system I can think of off the top of my head is one that spews flames rather than nutrient solution...
HA!!! SUCKER... FAKED YOU OUT!:o

If a system is designed to suspend plant roots in the air without growing media, it is Aeroponics as it meets the criteria as defined.

Now, here lies the confusion. One of the coolest aspects of Aeroponics imo, is its ability to be incorporated in most every other type of hydroponic system. The two types that would be more difficult, if possible, would be the "Wick" and "Drip" type systems. Any system incorporating multiple hydroponic techniques should, in all logical purposes, be referred to as a hybrid system.

Types of hybrid systems.

These are pretty self explanatory but I will define them anyway. Remember, all designs must allow the sustained growth of plants without utilizing a growing media.

DWC/Aero: When roots are suspended into a nutrient reservoir but still have the ability to absorb O2 outside of said reservoir.

NFT/Aero: When roots are suspended into a film of FLOWING nutrient solution while still allowing O2 absorption outside of said film. This film can either be sprayed with low pressure, high pressure, or atomized nozzles, or it can be pumped through the chamber without nozzles.

Ebb&Flow/Aero: When roots are suspended in a chamber but absorb nutrients at regular intervals by the flooding and draining of said chamber.

Fogponics/Aero: When roots are suspended in a chamber with atomized droplets below 30 microns, as wet fog is defined as droplets between 16-30 microns and dry fog is below 15 microns

Furthermore, it is possible to have even more combinations of hybrid systems. i.e. NFT/DWC/Aero, or Ebb&Flow/fog/Aero, or DWC/FOG/AERO. The limits are left to ones imagination.

Atomized Aeroponics.

From now on I (you can too) will refer to my type of system as an Atomized Aeroponic system.

An Atomized Aeroponic system must have spray nozzles (be it low pressure, high pressure, or air assisted), that atomize single drops of water into multiple drops < 1000 microns in size. These systems can also be designed with other means of atomization i.e. rotary discs. For best results, atomized droplets should be < 80 microns having a mean size of approximately 50 microns. This system CAN NOT allow atomized droplets to coalesce and run.

Hope this squashes the uncertainty behind Aeroponic type systems. None of this post really matters anyway, if you think your system is bitchen and you have fun dickin with it, who the hell cares what its called.
 
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