AIR conditioner

anberlinaddict

Well-Known Member
Im moving my HomeboxS into my closet. It already gets up to 95 when i close the tent and its in my living room.

But im thinking about this. What If i get an Air Conditioner like a portable one.. and put it in the closet.... and have it running constantly...

Do you think that will manage my heat problem.... I mean moving it into the closet seems dumb at this point because I cant even keep the temps regulated with the tent closed in my living room. But If iput an AC in the closet and shut the closet door do you think it will keep the temps down?


Im thinking about this 1.
http://www.amazon.com/Goldstar-R5208.../dp/B00005AL01


also .. this may sound dumb. But if i just put it in the closet and turn it on..... it will make it cold right? Do i have to do anything besides just turn it on? Dont u need it to run through a window.. or osmething? Can you put one of the Window Mount air condionters in a room if theres no window.. im looking to put one in a closet.
 

SOMEBEECH

Well-Known Member
that a/c is designed to be in a window it has to drain the water.they make some that are on wheels that has a resivor that u just remove and empty i own a hvac business and have a customer who runs a bed and breakfast and they have the ones on wheels for a backup and run it now because it been over 100 for about 2 weeks just to keep up.depending on where u live and humidity a/c units can make up to 5 gallons of water daily easy gl.
 

WWgrower

Well-Known Member
You can rig a way to run a drain out the room to where ever you want it to go. Also there is a hose to run outside the room for fresh air. Thought about getting one for my room but the 300 to 400 price tag keep me away. Now after a very hard summer run I will now just grow in the winter! Good luck
 

katanaxd

Active Member
yeah dude that would for sure work. anything to get that temp to the 68-78 degree zone. mine are mostly at 82-85 degrees. but i already have fans set up and the closet door open. but get an air conditioner if you can afford it.
 

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
Window AC aint gonna do it you'll need an indoor model and your gonna have a tube that will need to be vented outside.
 

GrowTech

stays relevant.
My tent in my journal is using an 8,000 BTU portable air conditioner. Running 24/7 I empty the res every 1-2 days, but lately during 12/12 I havent had to empty it at all. My unit is an Everstar 8,000 BTU and I highly recommend it for tents comparable to my 4.5x4.5x7' tent. Not to mention, it does an excellent job of managing my humidity. I absolutely recommend getting one, kept my temps from high 90s-100s down to 70-80.

Hope that helps. :)
-GT
 

ThunderLips

Well-Known Member
I have just one of those window units and I have gotten some purple to appear it gets so damn cold in there at night. I have also noticed a rice in humidty, but not too much... All the water leaks out the back.
 

scruffmcgruff

Well-Known Member
Window AC aint gonna do it you'll need an indoor model and your gonna have a tube that will need to be vented outside.

I've seen a write up on another forum where a window ac unit was used I'll repost it here
(originally on icmag)
"Well I ran one of these last year and have seen quite a few post lately asking if there is anyway to convert a window unit into a portable or to use it inside. This is my take on the situation. I ran this AC last year in the same box type unit. This year I rebuilt it to save some space and mount it up on the top of the room.

First step is to measure your AC. Your going to want to build your box 3-4 inches bigger on all sides. I prefer to use wood as it also dampens and quites the back of the unit quite well. So go ahead and make your box should look like this..


Next measure your as and cut out the opening for the unit. After that plan out an intake and and exit. Your going to want to flow air through the back of the unit. What i mean by this is you don't want your intake and exit on the same side of the box you want the air to move from side to side or top to bottom. Here is my box with intake and exit and ac holes cut.



Cut the hole in your appropriate wall or however you have make the intake exit work... Here I am bring air from the veg room in thought the bottom far side and out the top opposite side. This seems to work well for me in the past. The top is the exit to my fan I use an 8" fan split in two for my veg light (1000w) and this ac, the bottom is the intake vent.


Here is is all wrapped up and installed in the top of my room. As you can see it is a sealed separate system so that i can maintain my co levels in the room.



Common questions..
what about the drip?
I also run a dehumidifier, and last year did not notice any drips through out the year. I feel that with a strong fan you remove the heat and condensation before it can accumulate.
well actually thats about all I can think of hope this helps someone this worked all last year and i expect it will work this year. I run 4x600's air cooled and this comes on maybe twice a night to drop my temps down during the peak of summer." /end quote

Now from what I've seen the box should be separated as all of the hot air is exhausted straight out of the back as you can see here

and Here on the top and sides are air intakes which should be allowed to use fresh air instead of Re-using the hot air that is pushed out the back,

Now for those of you wondering about the water drip most new AC's have a hole or nossel that the water will always come from as seen here, you can drain this however you want, some people would save it as it's clean ph neutral water


For more detailed information on this visit
International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - AC Boxes Made Easy (to understand and build)
and
International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - How to make an AC box.
 

SOMEBEECH

Well-Known Member
so you say it has a damper to draw fresh air from the otside??and also i dont see how its gonna make that guys humidity go up the hole principle of air conditioning is removal of humidity,rule of thumb on houses is 500 sq ft per ton on well insulated space,thats where it will run long enough to remove humidity,for example you dont want 5 tons on 1000sq ft it will only dump a bunch of cold air in there and drop temp without removing humidity,also i would insulate the box on the inside and wrap the outside that will help ALOT
 
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WWgrower

Well-Known Member
Great idea, wish i had that kind of space to work with and wish I didn't have to worry about being stealthy. I put my fans and filters under my house. I have a double wide. No one can hear a thing. We have 2 kids that are now grown but come home for the holidays and special family events. I need to keep it quiet or questions will be asked that I don't want to deal with!
 

WWgrower

Well-Known Member
Oh one last thing you said you keep the door propped open. If you have a window in that room you could put it in the window and still get the benefit of the cooled air and humidity under control. That is how I keep my humidity under control this last summer. Two window rattlers running in the house with the doors propped and it worked when i could keep them open. And they weren't in the same room in fact about 50 feet away but it did the job.Just trying to help!
 
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