Ok Al,
Does this look correct for a 12x12 room with 4'x6' flood trays?
No- you generally want no more than 3 cooltubes in series, at least when pushing them with your average 150mm axial blower. Each lamp will raise the temp of the air passing by them by about 6-7C for a 1000, 5-6C for a 600, 4-5C for a 400.
With 1000s and an intake air temp of 20C, the temp of the air reaching cooltube #4 will be approaching 41C. The presence of the lamps and sockets in the tubes impedes airflow. 3 in a row is tolerable for your average 150mm axial blower (free air rating usually ~200CFM, drops lots with obstructions) but axials don't work well into high static pressures/obstructions. So, while even 41C air will pick up the lamp heat, the 4th tube's glass will probably get warm, defeating the purpose to some degree. The reduced airflow may also cause the glass on 1, 2 & 3 to be warmer than they should be as well.
If you have to daisy chain a lot of tubes or have a lot of sharp bends in ducting, you should opt for a centrifugal blower. Unfortunately, 150mm centrifs are both rare and about 4-6x the cost of an axial.
Cooltube blowers should push cool air into the duct instead of pulling warm air from the exhuast end or being fitted inline. Fans should be kept out of the warm air stream- this can reduce their lifespan significantly.
There is no need for a carbon filter on a closed cooltube air circuit. Air is drawn from outside the room and dumped outside, so there's no scent in the air running through the cooltubes.
Cooltubes must have their own blower; there must be separate blowers for intake and exhaust of room air, controlled by a thermostat. Cooltubes require constant airflow during lights-on. If a single blower is used to drive the cooltube and vent the room, it can not be operated on a thermostat. Stopping the airflow during lights-on will cause the cooltube to overheat. Room air temp stability will be poor if it is constantly ventilated with no thermostatic control.
Given that this is done correctly what do you estimate my yeild running Big Bud? How many clones would it take to fill my 4x6 trays? I'm thinking 36.
A well running SoG op can make 1-1.25oz per plant.
I also thinkin I'll use my 1000hps for my mothers...what you think?
I'm thinkin' that's way too much for mums. Use a 400 or a 250.
hey AL are you using CO2? What controller do you use or how do you set up your timer. Thanks!!
No, I'm not using CO2. If I did, I would opt ONLY for a 'smart' CO2 controller, one which has the ability to measure CO2 ppm and add more gas as needed. These 'smart' controllers also operate the exhaust blower and /or aircon units. These 'smart' types are EXXY, usually >$1000 or more- and that's on top of hiring an E size cyl of CO2 and purchase of a regulator. Timer-only based CO2 applicators don't have the ability to measure gas and don't know to add more if the exhaust fans have run and blown all the gas out. You have no idea whether your gas did any good at all. 'Smart' controllers are costly going in but reduce your CO2 refill costs to the minimum and also assure that you have enough gas concentration to have done some good. Properly done, CO2 can increase yields 20-30%. Only you can decide whether dropping a couple grand is worth that yield increase. In my case, it's not worth it.
any validity to the claim that gh flora micro and bloom will burn
Can't comment, I don't use GH, can't even get it here that I know of.
Hey al any guesses on what my yield might be? 40 plants in SOG under 1000w HPS.
Like I have said, a properly operating SoG op should be making about 1-1.25oz per plant. You can fit as many as 4 plants per sq ft in SoG. I don't go quite that dense. My op is about 2.6 plants per sq ft.
The material is activated carbon aka activated charcoal, not coal. Close carbon cousins but very different in physical properties. 
