sometimes being patient is much better than lobbing one in there..lol good luck
Patience is a topic I haven't touched on recently. New growers are expectant and anxious to do the right thing and you can't fault them for having enthusiasm. However, it's that enthusiasm which more often than not leads to disaster. Noobs kill with kindness, overwatering and overfertilising with astounding regularity.
This process
does take time! It's a minimum of 14 weeks (yes, 3.5 mos) from beans to buds. We shortcut that by several weeks in SoG, where mother plants supply a constant flow of clones to be flowered.
New growers should work on spending as little time as possible on the plants. Sit in the grow room & fawn over your work if you must, but resist the urge to fiddle and change things.
Al-- Thanks,for the input. The downward line is the cool air intake from under the house.
Yeah, that's what I kinda thought was happening. It's gotta go somewhere and under the house is a great place. Cuts noise and reduces any heat signature, while the latter isn't really too much of a worry.
So I am still having a hell of a time finding 50% H2O2 - can readily find 35% H2O2, so I just ordered a bunch of HyOx (35% H2O2 from Advanced Nutrients) at $20.00 per gallon, $28.00 after shipping.
That's not too bad. Will last you a while.
This morning I put 35% H2O2 into my tank at a rate of 8.5ml/L. I corrected the pH back to 5.8. Then I partially filled the e&f pots BELOW the level of the RW cubes...I hope! I let that set for about 20 minutes, then pumped it back out. I let the system e&f 1 complete time after that to try and get the H2O2 mixed in good throughout the system.
good, good, good
The pH seems to be stabilized again at 5.8. BUT...just to be sure I dosed the tank again and let it sit for a couple hours. The water is clearing up and the smell is going away.
yep, that's what we want! When your tanks remain clear & pH steady, you're on top of it.
I seriously don't know what I would have done if you had not turned me on to the wonders of H2O2. Thanks again Al!!! I'll get to cleaning and let you know how it goes.
Yep, you may have to do a little work to mechanically remove what the chemicals are having a hard time getting to.
Light, Air, Water, Nutrients, pH & Pathogen Control. Is that all I need?
That's the whole crate of bananas.
Oh Yeah - I ordered calibration/cleaning solutions for my pH & ec pens!!! I Gotta know what the pH is at ALL times!!! (I got ec vs ppm because Ionic nutes use ec instead of ppm for target ranges)
Yes, you have to have accurate metering. Otherwise, you're like an electrician without a voltmeter.
The scale doesn't matter, my TDS Truncheon is calibrated in EC & ppm. ppm is the preferred scale in the US and due to the number of US users on cannabis boards, is a widely used figure in cannabis discussion forums.
do you have to wait until you see preflowers before you can put a plant into flower. i thought if you started the plant on 12 hours of darkness it will flower.
You can't sex the plant until it is showing preflowers. If you chuck it in to flower before you know the sex, you have a 50% chance of wasting some of your flowering area space on males.
Even if you do get some females out of the plants that you flowered before they were showing preflowers, cuttings taken from plants in flower are notoriously slow to set root. A plant which has been in flower is thus not useful for cuttings, so those prematurely flowered plants won't be good mums. If you do manage to get a cutting from a flowering plant to set root, that clone will itself be in flower. If you want to use it as a mother plant, it will have to be re-vegged. It can take 6-8 weeks to return a plant in flower to full veg state growth. In the meantime, it will throw out some weird, mixed habit growth, with long 1-bladed fan leaves and slow vertical growth.
The right way to do it is to sprout your beans, grow them to sexual maturity (showing preflowers), take cuttings, root them, flower those cuts to determine sex of the donor plants, then proceed to take batches of cutting off the now known females which have remained under veg lighting.
What do you think about dutchmaster, and dutchmaster gold you, Al, are anybody else?
No opinion. I use Canna 2-part nutes because they're easy & reliable. No 3-part confusions going on in this op.
DAMN!!! Getting close to that 100 page mark!!!
It's madness. The readership stats on this thread are going a bit mad, up to 427/day, climbing every day. It is starting to get a little out of control... I'm spending too much time at the PC.
hmmm u have pics chumlie of ur sick plants from maybe ph over 7.0? maybe im having the same prob? my ph meter reads my water at like 9.0.... then i add grow big and it lowers it to 6.2.-6.6 with cal-mag.... i have used ph down once, but is it necessary? is 9.0 crazy ph or what? if i fed my plants with 9.0 ph what would they look like?
You'd see a lot of nute deficiencies as almost all nutes would be locked out.
5.8 is the place to be.