Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I break up text into paragraphs by subject. When I'm done with some idea, it's just sensible to break the para for the benefit of the reader.
Here, have a bit more of my kindergarten art...
RW cubes cannot tolerate frequent flooding, but pellets can. You're simply looking to keep the RW cube 1/2" above the flood level. Pellets in the 1/2" above the flood level will be damp enough for roots to seek into them.
Users of such an arrangement may wish to handwater the pellets around the cube (but not the cube itself) during the first week that the rooted clone in RW cube is in the pellets, to encourage roots to find the frequently flooded pellets down below. Wetting the cube will encourage roots to stay in the cube instead of knitting into the pellets.
oops.
I use flood systems for several reasons beyond what you've just stated, mainly high reliability and low maintenance.
no worries
Just to be clear, you need a proper horticultural heat mat, never a heating pad as used for people. Heating pads for people get far too hot. My heat mat is moulded in silicone rubber and lays totally flat, allowing good thermal transfer into the RW cubes. Heating pads for people are usually floppy & flexible... and are not waterproof.
I don't think you need an aircon unit to control the air temp of a clone box to 30C. Your clonebox will have some fluoro lighting, which makes a significant amount of heat.
A thermostatically controlled exhaust fan fitted to your clonebox (as you see in mine on the upper left, thermostat is at plant level) will keep air temp at 30C, presuming that the air that is available to be drawn into the clonebox is below 30C.
I simply measure the appropriate amt of H2O2 into a graduated measuring cup and dump it in the nute tank, nothing complex!
I would not use coir. Coir is an organic material and can support pathogen growth or may fragment when exposed to H2O2, letting bits loose into the recirculating watering system, whatever is being used.
Vegging cuttings before introduction to a SoG op will cause them to get too tall. The point of flowering immediately after setting root is keeping plants short, so all bud mass is in the maximum light coverage area.
I suppose that moisture may evaporate from certain types of hydro media more readily than from soil, but your ventilation system should cope with this.
Details of watering RW cubes is here: https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/15030-batch-clones-rockwool.html
Yep.Any subs for H2O2? (didn't think so
If your nute strength jumps up while the tank level falls, the tank is too small for the plants it is supplying. Undersized tanks require topping up with plain water between tank dumps, or else nute strength may bump up high enough to burn plants.
If the nute strength falls without topping the tank between dumps, there is more tank volume than needed. Try only filling the tank to 3/4 the capacity.
If the nute strength stays constant while the water level drops, the tank size is perfect.
yeah, now all I need is the Bridgeport mill to run on that 3Φ... and then the time to use it...
I don't think the problem is the PK-13-14. I just need finer directions from Canna on how to use it. I'm waiting for a response from the Aus distributor for some details. I don't think I want to use individual elemental additives (though Canna do sell them) because I have no metering device that can pick out the EC caused by one nutrient and not the others. My TDS meter measures total dissolved salts (or solids) hence the acronym TDS!.
We aim to please.
Nice work on the plants.
Reverse the flow direction in your cooltube depiction. Cool air should hit the socket first. Move the intake fan down low.
no worries.
If fans make too much noise, use a fan motor speed controller (NOT a dimmer!) from the hdwe store to slow them down a little. A fan running at 80% of usual speed may make 50% of the noise.
I'd use a std 'magnetic' ballast. There's no general advantage to electronic ballasts, they are much more costly and can't last as long as the old tech ballasts. A remote mountable ballast is important; you can put it outside the room's airmass so your vent system doesn't have to shift that heat out of the room.
I prune branching at the end of wk 1 & again at the end of wk 3. Same as.
Clones from thick stems root faster and are more productive than cuts from thin stems. However, the main reason I make mine so tall is to provide some air motion space between the pot tops and the bud mass
If simply being exposed to air doesn't prune them off for you, you may have to do it manually. Trim them soon after they escape the drain holes, don't let big taproots form through the drains. When the roots are small, the plant is not depending on them as a major pipeline and it won't notice if you trim them off. If you allow big taproots to form, the plant will be relying on them and may suffer transplant shock type symptoms.
