Alcohol Tincture
- Thread starter Hobbes
- Start date
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
I used organic lemon extract. tastes good but burns like fuck of course! 86% alcohol I believe..
Matanuska I'm at work (swamped) but I'll post a few ways to increase potency tonight. There are some scattered though the thread but it'll take forever to find them.
What's your tincture like now? Color, taste, sediment. What was the alcohol used?
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it is green and has some stuff in the bottom. I filtered though a coffee filter so it isn't bad.
I figured this was the thc so i shake it before use.
The first time I used it I did not shake it and I got bombed... since then not so much.
Does the THC settle?
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
Bingo.
Add water first then boil off the alcohol. Add water to keep the chlorophyll and terpins off the cannaboid sediment.
If you use a pyrex mason jar it will make the process easier, you can shake it later to dissolve the dried resin.
Heat the tincture with the top off between 79C and 100C. Do not boil.
The chlorophyll, terpins and leaf/bud parts will float in the water as the alcohol evaporates.
The resin will settle on the bottom as sediment - heavier than water like ice water hash.
Gently pour or siphon the green water out, any left will carry the green dragon taste to your new tincture.
Pour a small amount of solvent (alcohol, extracts, glycerin) - only enough so the sediment will dissolve and stay in solution.
The less solvent you use the more potent your tincture will be. It should now taste like the solvent, not green dragon.
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If you hadn't cured your bud/trim before making your tincture you could heat the sediment in a pyrex mason jar at 106C for 5 minutes after the resin is completely dry. This will decarboxylize any THCA left in the sediment, giving you more THC and more potency.
.
If you want to distill Vodka for tasteless 85% alcohol:
https://www.rollitup.org/cooking-cannabis/285016-diy-crock-pot-alcohol-reflux.html
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Hobbes
Well-Known Member
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Honey Oil Tincture
.
The Carrot
The most potent tincture possible is a honey oil tincture (with the bud you have and without doing isomorphs). Simply keep adding honey oil until it will no longer stay in solution.
After baking my leaf I can go from trim to tincture in less than an hour.
Honey Oil tincture will taste like the solvent.
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The Stick
You might get blowed up.
If you don't follow the extraction procedure properly you could turn your house into a bomb and burn yourself horribly. People have been arrested after blowing the doors off their garages; gone to the hospital with flash burns.
If you are not committed to safety first and planning your extraction before doing it then skip the rest of this tincture.
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Making The Tincture
Once you do your extraction (below) you will have a tray that looks like this:
Heat the pan slightly in the oven (50C or so, until the resin is soft) and simply pour your solvent into the pan. Use a fork to rub the honey oil into the solvent, depending on the solvent the resin can dissolve in minutes - glycerin can stand a higher temperature than alcohol so you can heat the tray hotter and pre heat the glycerin as well.
I've made grape seed oil tincture like this that worked out fairly well, when I've got some extra trim I'm going to make another batch and distill some vodka and use the two in a spray bottle to make a sub lingual tincture spray. I also use BHOE for olive oil for incredible brownies.
.
Honey Oil Tincture
.
The Carrot
The most potent tincture possible is a honey oil tincture (with the bud you have and without doing isomorphs). Simply keep adding honey oil until it will no longer stay in solution.
After baking my leaf I can go from trim to tincture in less than an hour.
Honey Oil tincture will taste like the solvent.
.
The Stick
You might get blowed up.
If you don't follow the extraction procedure properly you could turn your house into a bomb and burn yourself horribly. People have been arrested after blowing the doors off their garages; gone to the hospital with flash burns.
If you are not committed to safety first and planning your extraction before doing it then skip the rest of this tincture.
.
Making The Tincture
Once you do your extraction (below) you will have a tray that looks like this:
Heat the pan slightly in the oven (50C or so, until the resin is soft) and simply pour your solvent into the pan. Use a fork to rub the honey oil into the solvent, depending on the solvent the resin can dissolve in minutes - glycerin can stand a higher temperature than alcohol so you can heat the tray hotter and pre heat the glycerin as well.
I've made grape seed oil tincture like this that worked out fairly well, when I've got some extra trim I'm going to make another batch and distill some vodka and use the two in a spray bottle to make a sub lingual tincture spray. I also use BHOE for olive oil for incredible brownies.
.
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
I baked it first as per your instructions. thank you for the new idea!Bingo.
Add water first then boil off the alcohol. Add water to keep the chlorophyll and terpins off the cannaboid sediment.
If you use a pyrex mason jar it will make the process easier, you can shake it later to dissolve the dried resin.
Heat the tincture with the top off between 79C and 100C. Do not boil.
The chlorophyll, terpins and leaf/bud parts will float in the water as the alcohol evaporates.
The resin will settle on the bottom as sediment - heavier than water like ice water hash.
Gently pour or siphon the green water out, any left will carry the green dragon taste to your new tincture.
Pour a small amount of solvent (alcohol, extracts, glycerin) - only enough so the sediment will dissolve and stay in solution.
The less solvent you use the more potent your tincture will be. It should now taste like the solvent, not green dragon.
.
If you hadn't cured your bud/trim before making your tincture you could heat the sediment in a pyrex mason jar at 206C for 5 minutes after the resin is completely dry. This will decarboxylize any THCA left in the sediment, giving you more THC and more potency.
.
If you want to distill Vodka for tasteless 85% alcohol:
https://www.rollitup.org/cooking-cannabis/285016-diy-crock-pot-alcohol-reflux.html
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
BHOE comparrison: Honey Bee vs 1/2" Copper Pipe - Pictures
permali
***edit: I'll add a post later on packing the tube, one of the most important parts of the process)
The Honey Bee is beautifully made and a pleasure to use but it's relative wide diameter to it's length makes it an inefficient butane honey oil extractor. I did a test of equal weight samples (~28 grams) and got an additional ~35% honey oil using a longer but smaller diameter extractor pipe.
At 1 3/8" Inside Diameter and 5" inside length the Honey Bee has an area of 1.5" square and a voume of 7.42" cube. A 1/2" diameter pipe has an area of 0.2". The Honey Bee cross section has 7.5 X the area of the 1/2" pipe, so each piece of plant mater in the 1/2" pipe would be touched by 7.5 X the butane as the leaf in the Honey Bee. Butane acts as a non polar solvent - it does not absorb the cannaboids as does oil - therefore it will continue to dissolve resin as it passes through more and more leaf.
For a 1/2" diameter pipe to have a 7.42" cube volume, as the Honey Bee, the pipe would have to be 38" long. However, the column of leaf in the 1/2" diameter pipe is denser than in the 5" x 1 3/8" Honey Bee because the weight of the tall column compacts the leaf below. Settling during the loading process makes the same weight of baked leaf settle at ~30" in the 1/2" pipe. For this test the Honey Bee took 28.2 grams of baked fan leaf, the 1/2" x 30" took 27.9 grams.
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My Equipment and 56 grams of baked fan leaf. I used 1 can of butane per pipe per extraction.
.
A wax seal for the 1/2" x 30" copper pipe cap - eliminates spray.
.
Everything packed and ready to go. The copper tube wax seal is secured by masking tape, a white butane adapter jammed hard in the end. A double coffee filter is secured to the pipe with a hose clamp on the other end. I put them both out in -15C in a plastic bag for two hours to cool the leaf before extracting.
.
1/2" Extractor. The oil always looks green at first. The butane just pours and drips out of the bottom.
.
The Honey Bee. It sprays the butane out under a small amount of pressure.
.
I boil the butane off in a tub of hot water. Everything, extraction and boiling off, is done out doors in the open. No electricity, no flames, no wool.
.
.
I leave the Pyrex trays in the hot water for 10 or 15 minutes after the butane is boiled off to expand any gas trapped in the oil. I bake it in the oven at 106C for 5 or 10 minutes after wards to be sure no gas is left.
.
After baking, the Honey Bee
and the 1/2" x 30" copper pipe.
.
0.7 grams for the Honey Bee
.
1.0 grams for the 1/2" x 30" pipe
.
My scale goes to tenths of a gram only, so I'm going to call it 2.5 grams instead of 3. 2.5/7 = 35% more extract using a narrower tube.
The fan leaf had few trichomes, little oil to get with even the best extraction. I think the difference would be higher using high quality leaf or bud.
Conclusion: I love the Honey Bee, beautifully made and simple, but I'd never use it because it's inefficient. As well, though it sports a "Made In Canada" label that does not mean that it was entirely made according to Canadian standards.
"Made in Canada is defined as having the last major transformation done in Canada. Any product that has more than 2 per cent foreign content will have the Made in Canada label but, it will have to also have the stipulation of either: "...from domestic and imported ingredients" or "...from imported ingredients."
.
permali
***edit: I'll add a post later on packing the tube, one of the most important parts of the process)
The Honey Bee is beautifully made and a pleasure to use but it's relative wide diameter to it's length makes it an inefficient butane honey oil extractor. I did a test of equal weight samples (~28 grams) and got an additional ~35% honey oil using a longer but smaller diameter extractor pipe.
At 1 3/8" Inside Diameter and 5" inside length the Honey Bee has an area of 1.5" square and a voume of 7.42" cube. A 1/2" diameter pipe has an area of 0.2". The Honey Bee cross section has 7.5 X the area of the 1/2" pipe, so each piece of plant mater in the 1/2" pipe would be touched by 7.5 X the butane as the leaf in the Honey Bee. Butane acts as a non polar solvent - it does not absorb the cannaboids as does oil - therefore it will continue to dissolve resin as it passes through more and more leaf.
For a 1/2" diameter pipe to have a 7.42" cube volume, as the Honey Bee, the pipe would have to be 38" long. However, the column of leaf in the 1/2" diameter pipe is denser than in the 5" x 1 3/8" Honey Bee because the weight of the tall column compacts the leaf below. Settling during the loading process makes the same weight of baked leaf settle at ~30" in the 1/2" pipe. For this test the Honey Bee took 28.2 grams of baked fan leaf, the 1/2" x 30" took 27.9 grams.
.
My Equipment and 56 grams of baked fan leaf. I used 1 can of butane per pipe per extraction.
.
A wax seal for the 1/2" x 30" copper pipe cap - eliminates spray.
.
Everything packed and ready to go. The copper tube wax seal is secured by masking tape, a white butane adapter jammed hard in the end. A double coffee filter is secured to the pipe with a hose clamp on the other end. I put them both out in -15C in a plastic bag for two hours to cool the leaf before extracting.
.
1/2" Extractor. The oil always looks green at first. The butane just pours and drips out of the bottom.
.
The Honey Bee. It sprays the butane out under a small amount of pressure.
.
I boil the butane off in a tub of hot water. Everything, extraction and boiling off, is done out doors in the open. No electricity, no flames, no wool.
.
.
I leave the Pyrex trays in the hot water for 10 or 15 minutes after the butane is boiled off to expand any gas trapped in the oil. I bake it in the oven at 106C for 5 or 10 minutes after wards to be sure no gas is left.
.
After baking, the Honey Bee
and the 1/2" x 30" copper pipe.
.
0.7 grams for the Honey Bee
.
1.0 grams for the 1/2" x 30" pipe
.
My scale goes to tenths of a gram only, so I'm going to call it 2.5 grams instead of 3. 2.5/7 = 35% more extract using a narrower tube.
The fan leaf had few trichomes, little oil to get with even the best extraction. I think the difference would be higher using high quality leaf or bud.
Conclusion: I love the Honey Bee, beautifully made and simple, but I'd never use it because it's inefficient. As well, though it sports a "Made In Canada" label that does not mean that it was entirely made according to Canadian standards.
"Made in Canada is defined as having the last major transformation done in Canada. Any product that has more than 2 per cent foreign content will have the Made in Canada label but, it will have to also have the stipulation of either: "...from domestic and imported ingredients" or "...from imported ingredients."
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
A Cautionary Tale
.
I copied this post from another thread where there were some safety issues I wanted to address and had to do some research to get some of the information I wanted. I put some work into it so I want to keep it in a thread of my own so I don't loose track of it. I learned all of this information from Phife and his crew on Overgrow ten or fifteen years ago, I just remember the important stuff (don't use pvc, don't get blow'd up) so I had to refresh my memory. They had chemist in the thread and went into much greater detail than my limited knowledge allows.
.
.
Sorry for intruding on your thread gwerns.
I'm not sure if the pictures and instructions are yours or if you copied them, I assumed you were looking for a discussion on BHOE. Normally I'd just leave with my apology, but ....
There are two critical errors in the extraction process shown that will cause death and/or a long visit to the intensive care unit before going to prison; and a third error that will just attack your organs over time. I think this is information that everyone reading the thread should know, including yourself.
1. Death and/or ICU
Never, ever, for any reason, extract indoors. Butane is heavier than air and will sink, even with an open window and a fan you WILL get butane pools. Electrical outlets, appliances, the fridge might turn on, the heating system. Outdoors only, no garage, no barn, no doghouse. Remember the guys who blew the doors off their garage a couple months back?
http://www.edmontonjournal.com/news/...206/story.html
.
2. Death. If you stop at the ICU for a bit you'll probably just wish for death.
a: Never, ever, for any reason, boil off butane indoors.
b: Never, ever, for any reason, boil off butane with a heat source (the burner) that can reach butanes flash point (788F) or has has a flame.
Most burners won't reach 788 but I've seen red hot sparks when moving pans around the burner which would ignite butane gas. Not worth it. Even if you're using a double boiler, the butane as a gas is going to sink in air because it's heavier. Below the double boiler is the burner or flame. Use a tub of hot water - outdoors.
"Keep on a low heat and turn on your fan now to keep the area well ventillated!" - very dangerous advice.
Is that is a flame stove?
.
3. Organ damage.
Butane leaches chemicals out of PVC over time. PVC was not designed for BHOE. PVC contains a host of dangerous chemicals as well as lead, cadmium and other heavy metals - which will stay in your body and build up over time.
Heavy Metal Toxicity:http://www.diagnose-me.com/cond/C15891.html
.
"[FONT=Arial,verdana]Does PVC pipe contain hazardous chemicals?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,verdana]The concerns about hazardous chemicals in PVC centre on the use of heavy metal stabilisers (typically Cadmium and Lead) and plasticisers in flexible PVC products (such as phthalates). There are many reports that question the level of concern with respect to these chemicals in PVC."[/FONT]
"[FONT=Arial,verdana]Should I be concerned about VCM?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,verdana]Consumers are not at risk from exposure to VCM. VCM is only present in the polymer raw material stage.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,verdana]VCM is known to cause a rare form of liver cancer after prolonged high level exposure. The only known deaths as a consequence of contact with VCM have occurred to people involved in the manufacture of PVC. [/FONT]"
.
You are using a non polar super critical solvent on these pipes. They will leach those chemicals and heavy metals into your honey oil, a little at a time, so you'd never notice until you've reached toxic build up.
.
.
gwerns you made beautiful oil but eventually you're going to get blow'd up real good if you don't change your process from what's shown in the pictures.
Best of luck, BHOE kicks making cannabutter's ass, so many uses for the resin. I've made corn syrup candies that are unreal, highly recommend it. When I want brownies from my Volcano dregs I do a BHOE and have amazing tasty brownies. A great process.
.
A Cautionary Tale
.
I copied this post from another thread where there were some safety issues I wanted to address and had to do some research to get some of the information I wanted. I put some work into it so I want to keep it in a thread of my own so I don't loose track of it. I learned all of this information from Phife and his crew on Overgrow ten or fifteen years ago, I just remember the important stuff (don't use pvc, don't get blow'd up) so I had to refresh my memory. They had chemist in the thread and went into much greater detail than my limited knowledge allows.
.
.
Sorry for intruding on your thread gwerns.
I'm not sure if the pictures and instructions are yours or if you copied them, I assumed you were looking for a discussion on BHOE. Normally I'd just leave with my apology, but ....
There are two critical errors in the extraction process shown that will cause death and/or a long visit to the intensive care unit before going to prison; and a third error that will just attack your organs over time. I think this is information that everyone reading the thread should know, including yourself.
1. Death and/or ICU
Never, ever, for any reason, extract indoors. Butane is heavier than air and will sink, even with an open window and a fan you WILL get butane pools. Electrical outlets, appliances, the fridge might turn on, the heating system. Outdoors only, no garage, no barn, no doghouse. Remember the guys who blew the doors off their garage a couple months back?
http://www.edmontonjournal.com/news/...206/story.html
.
2. Death. If you stop at the ICU for a bit you'll probably just wish for death.
a: Never, ever, for any reason, boil off butane indoors.
b: Never, ever, for any reason, boil off butane with a heat source (the burner) that can reach butanes flash point (788F) or has has a flame.
Most burners won't reach 788 but I've seen red hot sparks when moving pans around the burner which would ignite butane gas. Not worth it. Even if you're using a double boiler, the butane as a gas is going to sink in air because it's heavier. Below the double boiler is the burner or flame. Use a tub of hot water - outdoors.
"Keep on a low heat and turn on your fan now to keep the area well ventillated!" - very dangerous advice.
Is that is a flame stove?
.
3. Organ damage.
Butane leaches chemicals out of PVC over time. PVC was not designed for BHOE. PVC contains a host of dangerous chemicals as well as lead, cadmium and other heavy metals - which will stay in your body and build up over time.
Heavy Metal Toxicity:http://www.diagnose-me.com/cond/C15891.html
.
"[FONT=Arial,verdana]Does PVC pipe contain hazardous chemicals?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,verdana]The concerns about hazardous chemicals in PVC centre on the use of heavy metal stabilisers (typically Cadmium and Lead) and plasticisers in flexible PVC products (such as phthalates). There are many reports that question the level of concern with respect to these chemicals in PVC."[/FONT]
"[FONT=Arial,verdana]Should I be concerned about VCM?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,verdana]Consumers are not at risk from exposure to VCM. VCM is only present in the polymer raw material stage.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,verdana]VCM is known to cause a rare form of liver cancer after prolonged high level exposure. The only known deaths as a consequence of contact with VCM have occurred to people involved in the manufacture of PVC. [/FONT]"
.
You are using a non polar super critical solvent on these pipes. They will leach those chemicals and heavy metals into your honey oil, a little at a time, so you'd never notice until you've reached toxic build up.
.
.
gwerns you made beautiful oil but eventually you're going to get blow'd up real good if you don't change your process from what's shown in the pictures.
Best of luck, BHOE kicks making cannabutter's ass, so many uses for the resin. I've made corn syrup candies that are unreal, highly recommend it. When I want brownies from my Volcano dregs I do a BHOE and have amazing tasty brownies. A great process.
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
I was lucky enough to have found The OG forum before it closed and followed Phife's thread on Honey Oil for over a year. Absolutely the best thread I've ever had the pleasure of reading, this is the best extraction instructional I've ever read.
Thanks again Phife.
.
How to Make Butane Honey Oil
Butane Honey Oil (BHO) extraction is an extremely dangerous activity. Butane is flammable, explosive and can potentially contain poisonous and harmful chemicals. Undertaking BHO extraction may result in serious bodily injury, or Death. The information provided on this website is strictly for educational purposes and in no way do the owners and staff of Overgrow.com encourage its production or use.
Safety
Butane is Highly Flammable and ALL extractions are to be done Outdoors Only, doing extractions indoor is extremely dangerous. There have been accounts of people blowing up their houses, kitchens, and bathrooms doing Butane and other solvent extractions indoors!
Butane gas is heavier than air and will pool in low areas, if left to collect butane gas becomes flammable when it reaches 1.8% to 8.5% concentration in air. A small breeze will keep the butane from being able to pool and become dangerous.
It is recommended you take every precaution possible. Wearing Safety Equipment such as Eye protection, as well as gloves and always keep a fire extinguisher near by.
Nothing is more important than your safety!
Do all butane extractions Outdoors or in Very well ventilated areas.
Never Smoke, have an open flame or source of ignition around when doing any kind of extraction, even outdoors
Avoid static build up and even a small spark in the right conditions can be dangerous.
Butane & Health
It has been talked about a lot lately, some brand of butane add a smell to their butane. This smell is usually added to the butane so that humans can detect leaks, you will find it in large amounts in cheap butane, or camping butane. It can also potentially be in ?Clean? butane such as Colibri.
These chemicals are usually Mercaptans or Sulfur Dioxide (Rotten Egg Smell), using cheap butane with high levels of these is harmful. Do not use cheap butane or camping butane. It can also be harmful to use ?Clean? butane, so do so at your own risk.
It is not known what the effects of residues in butane honey oil are; it?s not even known for sure what if any residues are left over in butane honey oil after the butane is purged.
Only a Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometer can give us the info on what?s exactly is in our BHO. The search is on to find somewhere to get a sample tested. Until then, be aware of the potential health risks and judge for yourself if it?s worth it.
Butane Brands
Not all butane is created equally; there are 2 different types of butane that make up the most common brands of butane. Isobutane and N-Butane.
Most cheap brands use Isobutane (2-METHYL PROPANE) and is more toxic and hazardous than N-Butane. For making Honey oil N-Butane is what we want, it extracts better and leaves very little to no residues in the oil.
Other brands use a mix of the different types, and some, like Colibri, use propane as well as Iso and n-butane
Boiling Points
ISOBUTANE: -11.7 C
N-BUTANE: -0.5 C
No source of pure N-Butane has been found available in stores, only through Gas Supply Companies.
The best brand of butane I have used is Colibri Butane. I highly recommend Colibri, and you should be able to find it at most Fine Cigar and Tobacco Shoppe?s. Below is a list of other brands that are good for making Honey oil with. If you cannot find Colibri try to find one of the butane brands listed. And by all means avoid Ronson, Bernz-o-matic or other butane not listed below, they add smell to their butane and this smell is left behind making the oil taste very bad.
Other Brands that are good to use:
COLIBRI, NEWPORT, CORA, CTC, COLTON, DUNHILL, DAVIDOFF, FACKELMAN, WIN, NIBO, SAROME, CALOR GAS MATCH, UNILIGHT, K2, SUPERGAS, VENTTI, VECTOR.
This is by no way a complete list, and there is no promise this info will always be correct, manufactures can change recipes at anytime. This list is the brands that carry the ?Near Zero? impurity label, which means they are not supposed to have more than 15ppm of impurities, what they are is not know.
When you purchase the butane make sure you find the largest size of can you can. I use the 300ml/167g (6oz) cans of Colibri. Most places only carry the little 2oz cans, these are not enough. You will need at least 8oz of butane for every 1oz of plant material.
If you find a brand that?s not listed you can do the mirror test to check to see if it?s ok to use. See Below.
Mirror Test
Take a mirror or piece of glass and spray some liquid butane into it. A good amount. (You may need some pliers to press the nozzle in) Wait about 5-10mins for the butane to evaporate and check the mirror for a white residue like the kind pictured. The residue also smells bad. Don?t confuse water condensation for residue. Also even Colibri leaves a very slight residue, but it doesn?t smell. Check for Smell.
(First mirror picture is of a clean mirror, second of the butane evaporating and last one is the white residue from Bernz-o-matic brand butane)
Plant Material
This is the most important factor if you wish to achieve high quality honey oil, Good fresh dried uncrushed bud makes the best honey oil, and you should easily achieve clear oil using uncrushed buds. Grind them up and do a second extraction to get a lower grade ?B? wash, not as tasty or clear like the first batch.
Butane extracts the smell from the plant material, so if you have some great smelling buds the oil will also take on that smell. If you use bad smelling or tasting plant material, you will get bad tasting oil.
Using crappy plant material can also result in low yield and oil dark in color.
Plant Material-|-Recommended amount Butane-|-Estimated Yield
1oz High quality bud-|-12oz-|-3-6g
1oz Average bud-|-10oz-|-2-4g
1oz low grade bud-|-9oz-|-2-3g
1oz high quality trim leaves-|-12oz-|-3-5g
1oz trim & leaves-|-10oz-|-2-4g
1oz fan leaves-|-8oz-|-1-2g
Extraction Tube
The extraction tube should be no wider than 1.5?, I find ¾? to be the best. The tube should be made of Stainless steel or Thick glass Only, You can use a copper tube if you cannot find stainless or glass, but only if you clean the tube well before each extraction. Copper tarnishes and the tarnish can potentially be extracted by the butane.
Avoid ALL Plastics, brass, steel and galvanized steel pipe, these all can contaminate your oil and make you sick.
I found a cheap stainless steel turkey baster works very well with little modification. It holds about 1/2oz of bud and can yield 2.5-3g of oil from ½ oz of good bud and 4-5oz of butane.
Some people like to build a contained extraction tube with valves to hold the butane in and let it sit in the plant material for a long time to maximize extraction but this is unnecessary. An open ended tube where the butane can flow through and drip into a collection dish is the easiest to build and makes much better oil. Allowing the butane to sit in the plant material will make your oil greener.
I use a ¾? by 9? Stainless Turkey Baster tube with a screw cap top and a small hole for the butane nozzle. Use a drill to make a 7/64? hole. Leave the bottom Open Ended, a paper basket style coffee filter, and stainless steel screen or metal window screen will be attached here when the tube is filled with the plant material. Use a Hose Clamp to attach your filters.
For the collection dish I use a Pyrex casserole or pie dish. Avoid metal collection dish as they can spark, you can use them but I don?t recommend it.
Honey oil is very sticky and it?s a lot easier to scrape it up from a flat bottom dish with square sides or one with out corners but I have yet to find the perfect dish, Make sure your collection dish can hold at least 500ml of liquid.
Extraction
Make sure your plant material (Leaves, Trim, Stems, or Buds) are very dry, the dryer the better. If you want clear honey oil with a lower yield, pack the tube without grinding or breaking up the plant material. The butane will extract the high quality oil on the outside of the plant material then unpack the tube, Grind up the plant material into a powder, you don?t want any chunks in it, it should a coarse powder, and re-extract a lower grade oil.
The better the starting material the better the oil. If you use males or just fan leaves don?t expect awesome oil. You can also use butane extraction to salvage moldy buds.
Fill the extraction tube full with the powdered plant material; avoid making air pockets in the tube. I like to fill the tube a little then pack it down and repeat until the tube is full.
Don?t pack it to much and try to make sure the tube is full, if you don?t have enough plant material to fill your tube then try to get a smaller tube. Air pockets let the liquid butane expand to gas and lower the efficiency a little.
After your tube is filled then you can place your screen on the bottom, Coffee filter works well. The picture shows a steel mesh screen with a coffee filter, which would work the best.
Find some way to mount the tube on a stand or get an oven mitt as the tube gets very cold, and you won?t be able to hold it with your bare hand for very long.
Once the tube is filled and prepared its time to get your collection dish, tube, butane and stand or glove and venture outdoors.
This is the most dangerous part of the whole process:
Find a safe, secluded place where you can do the extraction. Hold or mount the tube over the collection dish and place the nozzle of the butane can in the hole you made in the end cap. Release the entire can of butane into the tube, it will take anywhere from 30 secs. To 1 min for the liquid to start to drip from the bottom of the tube into the collection dish. If no liquid comes out of the tube and you have used an entire can then get another can, Packing the plant material to tight can cause a build up of pressure and stop the butane from flowing, if this happens do not let the pressure build to high and take your time.. Eventually the butane will make its way out the bottom. If the butane starts to come out the top hole then slow the release of butane into the tube.
Continue to empty the can until its just releasing gas (you will hear the difference), remove the spent can. If you are extracting more than 1oz get another can. I usually run 1 6oz can as my tube will hold about 1/2oz of plant material.
After the last can is emptied I let the tube drip for another few mins, the liquid in the dish should have a golden color to it. It may be hard to see.
Evaporation
I like to bring a thermos filled with boiled water to my extraction location along with a frying pan so I can do the evaporations outdoors. It should only take about 15-20mins to evaporate it all.
Or you can do your evaporations indoors as long as you take every precaution and are aware of the risk of fire if a spark or flame reaches the evaporating butane. And be sure not to let it pool in low areas.
I have a small fan close by blowing at the dish to avoid butane pools but the electric motor can cause sparks so be sure to keep it blowing at the butane instead of sucking the butane out.
Place the collection dish into a larger dish or frying pan filled with hot tap water or water that was boiled and watch the butane start to bubble. The hot water will get cold quickly so change it often until the butane/oil mix starts to thicken up.
Once the oil gets thicker I let it cool in the freezer in the collection dish. I recommend you do another heating with hot water to make sure all the butane is evaporated.
Be careful not to overheat or evaporate for too long. The longer you apply heat the darker your oil will get. Once the oil no longer bubbles from boiled water then its usually ready, no more heat is needed.
The oil might still bubble when a lighter is applied but this is not butane gas bubbles. It?s just the nature of the honey oil.
If you find your honey oil gets hazy or cloudy it is usually cause by trapped butane, do another purge to get the last of the butane out.
Once your done evaporating the butane, the honey oil can be smoked. If you let the honey oil sit in the collection dish, keep it covered in a dark place for a week - the honey oil will harden and you can chip it off, it will be solid but melt when heated.
Handling, Storing and Smoking:
You can use a razor blade to scrape up the oil from the dish. I like to put my oil into 5g Glass vials for storage; you should be able to find the vials at your local head shop. It?s pretty tricky to fill the vials with oil and it will take a bit of practice to get it right.
You can leave the oil in the collection dish and scrape it as you smoke it as well, make sure you cover the dish with plastic wrap so no dust and other things get stuck in your oil.
Depending on your collection dish shape, it might be difficult to remove all the oil from the corners. I found a little tool that works very well for getting all the oil from the dish. It?s used for mixing paints and it looks like a little flexible knife that can bend to get in all the corners. It?s called a Palette knife and you should be able to find that at an art supply store.
Smoking
I like to vaporize my oil on hot knives, Take a butter knife and stick it between the electric elements in your stove and crack up the heat, or use a butane or propane torch to heat the knife up. When it?s nice and hot remove the knife and use a pin to drip a drop of oil on the hot knife and suck up the smoke with some sort of tube. I use a pen tube or custom glass hooter.
Ash bowls are another common way to smoke oil. Take a pipe or bong and fill the bowl with ashes from a cigarette and then drip a drop of oil on top of the pile of ashes. Then light the bowl with a lighter and smoke like you normally would.
Well that?s it Folks. How to make kick ass honey oil! Good Luck to all and Be Safe.
.
I was lucky enough to have found The OG forum before it closed and followed Phife's thread on Honey Oil for over a year. Absolutely the best thread I've ever had the pleasure of reading, this is the best extraction instructional I've ever read.
Thanks again Phife.
.
How to Make Butane Honey Oil
Contributed by: Phife
Submitted: November 27th, 2004
Images archived: 2005
Disclaimer
Submitted: November 27th, 2004
Images archived: 2005
Disclaimer
Butane Honey Oil (BHO) extraction is an extremely dangerous activity. Butane is flammable, explosive and can potentially contain poisonous and harmful chemicals. Undertaking BHO extraction may result in serious bodily injury, or Death. The information provided on this website is strictly for educational purposes and in no way do the owners and staff of Overgrow.com encourage its production or use. Safety
Butane is Highly Flammable and ALL extractions are to be done Outdoors Only, doing extractions indoor is extremely dangerous. There have been accounts of people blowing up their houses, kitchens, and bathrooms doing Butane and other solvent extractions indoors!
Butane gas is heavier than air and will pool in low areas, if left to collect butane gas becomes flammable when it reaches 1.8% to 8.5% concentration in air. A small breeze will keep the butane from being able to pool and become dangerous.
It is recommended you take every precaution possible. Wearing Safety Equipment such as Eye protection, as well as gloves and always keep a fire extinguisher near by.
Nothing is more important than your safety!
Do all butane extractions Outdoors or in Very well ventilated areas.
Never Smoke, have an open flame or source of ignition around when doing any kind of extraction, even outdoors
Avoid static build up and even a small spark in the right conditions can be dangerous.
Butane & Health
It has been talked about a lot lately, some brand of butane add a smell to their butane. This smell is usually added to the butane so that humans can detect leaks, you will find it in large amounts in cheap butane, or camping butane. It can also potentially be in ?Clean? butane such as Colibri.
These chemicals are usually Mercaptans or Sulfur Dioxide (Rotten Egg Smell), using cheap butane with high levels of these is harmful. Do not use cheap butane or camping butane. It can also be harmful to use ?Clean? butane, so do so at your own risk.
It is not known what the effects of residues in butane honey oil are; it?s not even known for sure what if any residues are left over in butane honey oil after the butane is purged.
Only a Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometer can give us the info on what?s exactly is in our BHO. The search is on to find somewhere to get a sample tested. Until then, be aware of the potential health risks and judge for yourself if it?s worth it.
Butane Brands
Not all butane is created equally; there are 2 different types of butane that make up the most common brands of butane. Isobutane and N-Butane.
Most cheap brands use Isobutane (2-METHYL PROPANE) and is more toxic and hazardous than N-Butane. For making Honey oil N-Butane is what we want, it extracts better and leaves very little to no residues in the oil.
Other brands use a mix of the different types, and some, like Colibri, use propane as well as Iso and n-butane
Boiling Points
ISOBUTANE: -11.7 C
N-BUTANE: -0.5 C
No source of pure N-Butane has been found available in stores, only through Gas Supply Companies.
The best brand of butane I have used is Colibri Butane. I highly recommend Colibri, and you should be able to find it at most Fine Cigar and Tobacco Shoppe?s. Below is a list of other brands that are good for making Honey oil with. If you cannot find Colibri try to find one of the butane brands listed. And by all means avoid Ronson, Bernz-o-matic or other butane not listed below, they add smell to their butane and this smell is left behind making the oil taste very bad. Other Brands that are good to use:
COLIBRI, NEWPORT, CORA, CTC, COLTON, DUNHILL, DAVIDOFF, FACKELMAN, WIN, NIBO, SAROME, CALOR GAS MATCH, UNILIGHT, K2, SUPERGAS, VENTTI, VECTOR.
This is by no way a complete list, and there is no promise this info will always be correct, manufactures can change recipes at anytime. This list is the brands that carry the ?Near Zero? impurity label, which means they are not supposed to have more than 15ppm of impurities, what they are is not know.
When you purchase the butane make sure you find the largest size of can you can. I use the 300ml/167g (6oz) cans of Colibri. Most places only carry the little 2oz cans, these are not enough. You will need at least 8oz of butane for every 1oz of plant material.
If you find a brand that?s not listed you can do the mirror test to check to see if it?s ok to use. See Below.
Mirror Test
Take a mirror or piece of glass and spray some liquid butane into it. A good amount. (You may need some pliers to press the nozzle in) Wait about 5-10mins for the butane to evaporate and check the mirror for a white residue like the kind pictured. The residue also smells bad. Don?t confuse water condensation for residue. Also even Colibri leaves a very slight residue, but it doesn?t smell. Check for Smell. 
(First mirror picture is of a clean mirror, second of the butane evaporating and last one is the white residue from Bernz-o-matic brand butane) Plant Material
This is the most important factor if you wish to achieve high quality honey oil, Good fresh dried uncrushed bud makes the best honey oil, and you should easily achieve clear oil using uncrushed buds. Grind them up and do a second extraction to get a lower grade ?B? wash, not as tasty or clear like the first batch. Butane extracts the smell from the plant material, so if you have some great smelling buds the oil will also take on that smell. If you use bad smelling or tasting plant material, you will get bad tasting oil.
Using crappy plant material can also result in low yield and oil dark in color.
Plant Material-|-Recommended amount Butane-|-Estimated Yield
1oz High quality bud-|-12oz-|-3-6g
1oz Average bud-|-10oz-|-2-4g
1oz low grade bud-|-9oz-|-2-3g
1oz high quality trim leaves-|-12oz-|-3-5g
1oz trim & leaves-|-10oz-|-2-4g
1oz fan leaves-|-8oz-|-1-2g
Extraction Tube
The extraction tube should be no wider than 1.5?, I find ¾? to be the best. The tube should be made of Stainless steel or Thick glass Only, You can use a copper tube if you cannot find stainless or glass, but only if you clean the tube well before each extraction. Copper tarnishes and the tarnish can potentially be extracted by the butane. Avoid ALL Plastics, brass, steel and galvanized steel pipe, these all can contaminate your oil and make you sick.
I found a cheap stainless steel turkey baster works very well with little modification. It holds about 1/2oz of bud and can yield 2.5-3g of oil from ½ oz of good bud and 4-5oz of butane.
Some people like to build a contained extraction tube with valves to hold the butane in and let it sit in the plant material for a long time to maximize extraction but this is unnecessary. An open ended tube where the butane can flow through and drip into a collection dish is the easiest to build and makes much better oil. Allowing the butane to sit in the plant material will make your oil greener.
I use a ¾? by 9? Stainless Turkey Baster tube with a screw cap top and a small hole for the butane nozzle. Use a drill to make a 7/64? hole. Leave the bottom Open Ended, a paper basket style coffee filter, and stainless steel screen or metal window screen will be attached here when the tube is filled with the plant material. Use a Hose Clamp to attach your filters. 
For the collection dish I use a Pyrex casserole or pie dish. Avoid metal collection dish as they can spark, you can use them but I don?t recommend it. Honey oil is very sticky and it?s a lot easier to scrape it up from a flat bottom dish with square sides or one with out corners but I have yet to find the perfect dish, Make sure your collection dish can hold at least 500ml of liquid.
Extraction
Make sure your plant material (Leaves, Trim, Stems, or Buds) are very dry, the dryer the better. If you want clear honey oil with a lower yield, pack the tube without grinding or breaking up the plant material. The butane will extract the high quality oil on the outside of the plant material then unpack the tube, Grind up the plant material into a powder, you don?t want any chunks in it, it should a coarse powder, and re-extract a lower grade oil.
The better the starting material the better the oil. If you use males or just fan leaves don?t expect awesome oil. You can also use butane extraction to salvage moldy buds.
Fill the extraction tube full with the powdered plant material; avoid making air pockets in the tube. I like to fill the tube a little then pack it down and repeat until the tube is full.
Don?t pack it to much and try to make sure the tube is full, if you don?t have enough plant material to fill your tube then try to get a smaller tube. Air pockets let the liquid butane expand to gas and lower the efficiency a little.
After your tube is filled then you can place your screen on the bottom, Coffee filter works well. The picture shows a steel mesh screen with a coffee filter, which would work the best.
Find some way to mount the tube on a stand or get an oven mitt as the tube gets very cold, and you won?t be able to hold it with your bare hand for very long.
Once the tube is filled and prepared its time to get your collection dish, tube, butane and stand or glove and venture outdoors.
This is the most dangerous part of the whole process:
Find a safe, secluded place where you can do the extraction. Hold or mount the tube over the collection dish and place the nozzle of the butane can in the hole you made in the end cap. Release the entire can of butane into the tube, it will take anywhere from 30 secs. To 1 min for the liquid to start to drip from the bottom of the tube into the collection dish. If no liquid comes out of the tube and you have used an entire can then get another can, Packing the plant material to tight can cause a build up of pressure and stop the butane from flowing, if this happens do not let the pressure build to high and take your time.. Eventually the butane will make its way out the bottom. If the butane starts to come out the top hole then slow the release of butane into the tube. Continue to empty the can until its just releasing gas (you will hear the difference), remove the spent can. If you are extracting more than 1oz get another can. I usually run 1 6oz can as my tube will hold about 1/2oz of plant material.
After the last can is emptied I let the tube drip for another few mins, the liquid in the dish should have a golden color to it. It may be hard to see.
Evaporation
I like to bring a thermos filled with boiled water to my extraction location along with a frying pan so I can do the evaporations outdoors. It should only take about 15-20mins to evaporate it all. Or you can do your evaporations indoors as long as you take every precaution and are aware of the risk of fire if a spark or flame reaches the evaporating butane. And be sure not to let it pool in low areas.
I have a small fan close by blowing at the dish to avoid butane pools but the electric motor can cause sparks so be sure to keep it blowing at the butane instead of sucking the butane out.
Place the collection dish into a larger dish or frying pan filled with hot tap water or water that was boiled and watch the butane start to bubble. The hot water will get cold quickly so change it often until the butane/oil mix starts to thicken up. Once the oil gets thicker I let it cool in the freezer in the collection dish. I recommend you do another heating with hot water to make sure all the butane is evaporated.
Be careful not to overheat or evaporate for too long. The longer you apply heat the darker your oil will get. Once the oil no longer bubbles from boiled water then its usually ready, no more heat is needed.
The oil might still bubble when a lighter is applied but this is not butane gas bubbles. It?s just the nature of the honey oil.
If you find your honey oil gets hazy or cloudy it is usually cause by trapped butane, do another purge to get the last of the butane out.
Once your done evaporating the butane, the honey oil can be smoked. If you let the honey oil sit in the collection dish, keep it covered in a dark place for a week - the honey oil will harden and you can chip it off, it will be solid but melt when heated.
Handling, Storing and Smoking:
You can use a razor blade to scrape up the oil from the dish. I like to put my oil into 5g Glass vials for storage; you should be able to find the vials at your local head shop. It?s pretty tricky to fill the vials with oil and it will take a bit of practice to get it right. You can leave the oil in the collection dish and scrape it as you smoke it as well, make sure you cover the dish with plastic wrap so no dust and other things get stuck in your oil.
Depending on your collection dish shape, it might be difficult to remove all the oil from the corners. I found a little tool that works very well for getting all the oil from the dish. It?s used for mixing paints and it looks like a little flexible knife that can bend to get in all the corners. It?s called a Palette knife and you should be able to find that at an art supply store. 
Smoking
I like to vaporize my oil on hot knives, Take a butter knife and stick it between the electric elements in your stove and crack up the heat, or use a butane or propane torch to heat the knife up. When it?s nice and hot remove the knife and use a pin to drip a drop of oil on the hot knife and suck up the smoke with some sort of tube. I use a pen tube or custom glass hooter. Ash bowls are another common way to smoke oil. Take a pipe or bong and fill the bowl with ashes from a cigarette and then drip a drop of oil on top of the pile of ashes. Then light the bowl with a lighter and smoke like you normally would.
Well that?s it Folks. How to make kick ass honey oil! Good Luck to all and Be Safe.
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
Matanuska I put the wrong temperature in the original post - 206C - that will vaporize the bud. It should be 106C.
Sorry if I ruined your resin.
.
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
so that is to bake it at? yeah I did like 350 which is almost 206Matanuska I put the wrong temperature in the original post - 206C - that will vaporize the bud. It should be 106C.
Sorry if I ruined your resin.
.
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
when I did the conversion I knew it must be wrong because to 380 is what vaporizers run at i thought
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
Sorry.
Typo and I didn't catch it until after I posted all the BHOE threads. Some genius figured out the exact temp to decarboxylize the quickest and most effectively, or just posted that they did. I use 106C and it's worked fine.
Let me know if the tincture has any potency left.
.
Sorry.
Typo and I didn't catch it until after I posted all the BHOE threads. Some genius figured out the exact temp to decarboxylize the quickest and most effectively, or just posted that they did. I use 106C and it's worked fine.
Let me know if the tincture has any potency left.
.
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
so when I can get some more weed I will try again. So at this temperature is it still 4-5 minutes? or does it have to bake longer?.
Sorry.
Typo and I didn't catch it until after I posted all the BHOE threads. Some genius figured out the exact temp to decarboxylize the quickest and most effectively, or just posted that they did. I use 106C and it's worked fine.
Let me know if the tincture has any potency left.
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
I fill my toaster oven with leaf and bake it for an hour at 106C, to dry the leaf out as well. To be honest the toaster oven has a 60 minute dial timer and I just crank it as far as it will go and forget about the leaf. No science involved in my timing, just keep the temp down as not to vaporize or damage the existing THC. I make Black Out Bud Butter from Dr Jay's recipie in a crock pot and that's close to 100C for an hour then probably 90C - 95C for 2, I figure an hour at 106C shouldn't hurt things too bad.
If the leaf is dry I'll usually bake for 15-30 min. I bake on a screen - it dries the leaf quicker. Also, use an oven thermometer, don't trust the dial.
I've read that in less than 5 minutes baking at 106C will decarboxylize dry bud/leaf.
Again, I'm so sorry. Even more so now that you posted that you have to buy/get bud, I was hoping you were a grower.
.
I fill my toaster oven with leaf and bake it for an hour at 106C, to dry the leaf out as well. To be honest the toaster oven has a 60 minute dial timer and I just crank it as far as it will go and forget about the leaf. No science involved in my timing, just keep the temp down as not to vaporize or damage the existing THC. I make Black Out Bud Butter from Dr Jay's recipie in a crock pot and that's close to 100C for an hour then probably 90C - 95C for 2, I figure an hour at 106C shouldn't hurt things too bad.
If the leaf is dry I'll usually bake for 15-30 min. I bake on a screen - it dries the leaf quicker. Also, use an oven thermometer, don't trust the dial.
I've read that in less than 5 minutes baking at 106C will decarboxylize dry bud/leaf.
Again, I'm so sorry. Even more so now that you posted that you have to buy/get bud, I was hoping you were a grower.
.
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
I am, I am on my first grow no harvests yet. Some guy here sold me an ounce of weed that I found out when I got home had been vaped. This set me back on money and weed substantially, I am a med patient but in Oregon I have to rely on illegal dealers because if you talk about buying weed around Oregon NORML they kick you out permanently..
I fill my toaster oven with leaf and bake it for an hour at 106C, to dry the leaf out as well. To be honest the toaster oven has a 60 minute dial timer and I just crank it as far as it will go and forget about the leaf. No science involved in my timing, just keep the temp down as not to vaporize or damage the existing THC. I make Black Out Bud Butter from Dr Jay's recipie in a crock pot and that's close to 100C for an hour then probably 90C - 95C for 2, I figure an hour at 106C shouldn't hurt things too bad.
If the leaf is dry I'll usually bake for 15-30 min. I bake on a screen - it dries the leaf quicker. Also, use an oven thermometer, don't trust the dial.
I've read that in less than 5 minutes baking at 106C will decarboxylize dry bud/leaf.
Again, I'm so sorry. Even more so now that you posted that you have to buy/get bud, I was hoping you were a grower.
.
It is terrible catch 22 I am caught in. My first plant is going to yield like a half O too that will last me a week or two.
Lesigh I am done crying like a little bitch now, fuck I hate Oregon medical laws. If we only had a dispensary...
I have been wanting to try this method..its really simple...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4HLLgVN_xk
im sure the recipe could be changed a tad if you didnt want to use 1g of bud
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4HLLgVN_xk
im sure the recipe could be changed a tad if you didnt want to use 1g of bud
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
Thanks snizzim that was ... relaxed. The guy had some good ideas.
As far as running the herb through the vaporizer, I don't think that short a time will decarboxylize much. It seemed like the guy's bud was pretty dry, probably cured well, he may have just been getting the rest of the water out before making tincture. A poor man's toaster oven at best.
I'd advise skipping the dregs tincture - I've been making brownies from Volcano dregs by boiling with butter; crock pot; and butane honey oil extraction. Even extracting the resin with butane I would not like the tincture, brownies are great but ... As for an alcohol extraction - alcohol is a near polar solvent which basically means that as well as dissolving the resin its going to dissolve everything that tastes horrible. Like drinking ashes.
If anyone tries it PLEASE come back and tell us how it tastes. After you recover.
.
Thanks snizzim that was ... relaxed. The guy had some good ideas.
As far as running the herb through the vaporizer, I don't think that short a time will decarboxylize much. It seemed like the guy's bud was pretty dry, probably cured well, he may have just been getting the rest of the water out before making tincture. A poor man's toaster oven at best.
I'd advise skipping the dregs tincture - I've been making brownies from Volcano dregs by boiling with butter; crock pot; and butane honey oil extraction. Even extracting the resin with butane I would not like the tincture, brownies are great but ... As for an alcohol extraction - alcohol is a near polar solvent which basically means that as well as dissolving the resin its going to dissolve everything that tastes horrible. Like drinking ashes.
If anyone tries it PLEASE come back and tell us how it tastes. After you recover.
.
So I made a batch of this using everclear. I was very precise and my temps stayed around 165 degrees. When I was finished I ended up with 1/2 of oz. of tincture. Can I add a 1/2 of more everclear to bring that up to 1f ounce of tincture? I thought Id ask first incase the fresh Everclear might alter it in a bad way. Any additional information would be greatly appreciated.
MatanuskaValley
Well-Known Member
I kept mine at 150 ish and ended up with over an ounce... big variance, how potent was your shizzle?