...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
werm11 said:
Hey man this is something I completely over thought on my first build. You won't find #4 or smaller self tapping screws...at least I never could. What I did was get #4 machine screws or sheet metal screws at the desired length. Just slowly drill a pilot hole first using a lubricant and go back and forth and slowly drill the screw in the same way so you don't break it. Works great for me. I wouldn't use wood screws like someone before me suggested but they may work I don't know
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all that to save buying one decent tap?

I mean really if you can drill and hand tap with a screw, you can drill and hand tap with a tap. for the size of the holes (2.5mm, 3 mm) its really easy to hand tap.
 
A

array

Member
PurpleBuz said:
all that to save buying one decent tap?

I mean really if you can drill and hand tap with a screw, you can drill and hand tap with a tap. for the size of the holes (2.5mm, 3 mm) its really easy to hand tap.
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What is a decent tap that you suggest? I've seen people complaining of breaking the taps in the heatsinks and then having to trash the whole sink. I'll look into your suggestion though. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
 
LeMrMagu

LeMrMagu

Well-Known Member
you just have to buy perfect drill for tap like m3 tap should use 2.5mm drill or something like that, and when tapping, if u pinch it to side, bam its broken, so take your time while doing it, 1 circle forward, half backwards, always worked for me
 
qwerkus

qwerkus

Well-Known Member
array said:
What is a decent tap that you suggest? I've seen people complaining of breaking the taps in the heatsinks and then having to trash the whole sink. I'll look into your suggestion though. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
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Yeah, be carefull. A stand helps a lot. If you break the tap, there is no need to throw everything away. Just slowly drill through the broken part until you get everything out, and maybe use a larger screw (m4) afterwards. Also remember: metal work is VERY low rpm. More torque, less speed = good results. You should still be able to see the drill rotating during work, otherwise it's too fast...

Overall, I wouldn't recommend taping. If done properly, it's cerlainly a clean fastening method, but drilling through and using bolts is just so much easier. If the heatsink allows it, go on a drill all the way. One has to remember that using steel screw on aluminium tape is not optimal.
 
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werm11

werm11

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
all that to save buying one decent tap?

I mean really if you can drill and hand tap with a screw, you can drill and hand tap with a tap. for the size of the holes (2.5mm, 3 mm) its really easy to hand tap.
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What do you mean "all that"? It's less steps. Your way=pilot, tap, screw. My way=pilot, screw. I have used taps before on my builds. I found not using one works just as well as long as you use the right parts. Different methods to achieve the same result. I was just giving him another option. These small fasteners and taps can be very hard to find for people in certain areas. That being said, I'll have a press before my next significant build.
 
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array

Member
werm11 said:
What do you mean "all that"? It's less steps. Your way=pilot, tap, screw. My way=pilot, screw. I have used taps before on my builds. I found not using one works just as well as long as you use the right parts. Different methods to achieve the same result. I was just giving him another option. These small fasteners and taps can be very hard to find for people in certain areas. That being said, I'll have a press before my next significant build.
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How big of a pilot hole? Will any metal to metal bit work to drill it?
 
qwerkus

qwerkus

Well-Known Member
array said:
How big of a pilot hole? Will any metal to metal bit work to drill it?
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Aluminium and Copper are soft metals; you can work them with anything. HSS bi-metal drills will give better results though - as they are harder, you can drive them slower. Hole diameter depends. 2.5mm for M3 is not bad. You can also use 2.8 and tap with a simple screw. I used to tap my pc projects with inox screws, and it worked great.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
array said:
What is a decent tap that you suggest? I've seen people complaining of breaking the taps in the heatsinks and then having to trash the whole sink. I'll look into your suggestion though. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
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4-40 Spiral Flute Bottoming Tap
[This is the one I specifically use]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-40-H2-Spiral-Flute-Bottoming-ANSI-CNC-Tap-HSS-V-TiN-Coated-YG-1-Part-F8162-/151621686729?hash=item234d5b55c9

Here is the Balax Roll Tap Version
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-40-GH5-Bottoming-Form-Tap-SuperTiN-Coated-Powdered-Metal-Balax-USA-10725U-/310707532923?hash=item48579cb47b

roll taps extrude the surface of the metal, versus removing metal to cut threads.....

Drilling and tapping 4mm holes, should never lead to snapped bits, but it happens especially when you don't follow directions or pay attention imho :joint:

Fyi there is a Tapping Thread here in the LED section too....:peace:
 
LeMrMagu

LeMrMagu

Well-Known Member
2.1amp 70w as its "default" vero29 current from datasheet and with 2.4 amp you would need more volts than 38 but it should by fine as well just hard driving cobs degrease their life time
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
werm11 said:
@Greengenes707 gave us all some good advice when he suggested to use a slightly bigger bit when tapping for a 4-40 screw. I am at work without my notes at the moment so I can't give exact size for the bits but I'm sure he remembers.
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For cheap and readily available building parts and tools...HD, ACE or Lowes have somethign that "will work" usually....but quality might not be great or perfect. Such as their taps.
I use a #40 or 41 bit instead of a #43 on pilot holes for 4-40 tapping. A dab of wd40 and you will never break a cheap tap again. And there is plenty of thread depth doing that...same size pilot as for a self tapping screw.

It works and is effortless.
 
brettsog

brettsog

Well-Known Member
LeMrMagu said:
2.1amp 70w as its "default" vero29 current from datasheet and with 2.4 amp you would need more volts than 38 but it should by fine as well just hard driving cobs degrease their life time
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Thanks for quick reply. I see that now. 39v for 2.8 a so would be just not enough. From everything I have been told and read vero like to be driven hard so was aiming for 70-75w per cob. I'm gonna add another strip of 3 after I have built this successfully.. should be fun in 3'x1.5'
 
LeMrMagu

LeMrMagu

Well-Known Member
I think 3 cobs would be enought in your space placing them by foot from each other, well im running 2 vero29 at about 2.2 amps so its about (215w at wall) 170w or 66parW i guess in 2x2ft and i got about 140g dry first run from 2 autos and 1 c99 fem, but im planning to upgrade on 4x vero29 on 1.5a ea (50w) for better coverage but im not sure if its overkill or not in my space... if it is, then ill probably buy cxb 3590 or ll run veros on 0.9a ( about 30w ea)

edit: accidently double posted while i was writing :D
 
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array

Member
What's a good one stop place for meanwell divers, veros, pico ezmate and a cob holder? If there is any.... I know about kingbrite but their min order is 5 veros and I'm only getting 2 for now, and they only offer the top drivers and I'm looking for the lower power ones, single driver per cob
 
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