...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
wago222 connectors are awesome. I can't believe I ever used wire nuts.

I bought a box of the 2 port and 5 port ones and don't feel bad at all for not needing them all yet.

The 5 connector ones are great for connecting 1 voltage source to up to 4 fans in parallel. You could also put 3 fans in parallel, and daisy chain to another 5 connector with 4 fans on it, if you have lots of fans.
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Excuse the ignorance and crudeness but is this correct:
sketch1416750513302.jpg
I used to know this shit but its been too long.
The wago's and molex connectors are looking like a DIYers dream though!
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
I got a question about cooling these Veros, specifically the 18s and the HSUSA 4.85" profile. Do you think driving 3@1050mA on 28-30" length with a decent 120mm fan will work ok? I remember @SupraSPL mentioning that profile a while ago but I can't remember in what amounts. There is a 3000 rpm version of those fans also, they really move some air but might be overkill.

I know I recomend 1 cob per s/f driven at 1050A peak in small setups like mine (2x4), but what about in a 5'x10' area. How many Vero29s? driven at what current? and at what spacing? is the consensus in this scenario.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Hey EF, I recently updated the heatsink spreadsheet with every HUSA profile so we can analyze them in terms of surface area/in and in terms of cost/surface area. I will start a new thread for that and post them up. The 4.85" has a relatively thin base plate versus the 4.9, but the 4.85 has shorter fins so it would give you more spread between COBs. The thinner base plate means the heatsink cannot spread the heat a fast from the "hot spots" to the fins. So that makes it less suitable for the COB style lamps. Maybe best for vegging or for LED bars that use the 2W LEDs.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
uzerneims said:
Yeah, but then it kicks me out of my budget - totally!
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Aye, keep looking around mate. Either you'll find what your looking for or you'll save enough in due time. In the meantime, keep absorbing what you can around the threads so that you can make as big as an impact as you can once you get your parts and pieces in a pile.

Ordering parts and pieces is one thing, knowing what to do with those pieces is a whole-nother extreme.

SupraSPL said:
Hey EF, I recently updated the heatsink spreadsheet with every HUSA profile so we can analyze them in terms of surface area/in and in terms of cost/surface area. I will start a new thread for that and post them up.
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Post it post it post it!

:mrgreen:
 
uzerneims

uzerneims

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
Aye, keep looking around mate. Either you'll find what your looking for or you'll save enough in due time. In the meantime, keep absorbing what you can around the threads so that you can make as big as an impact as you can once you get your parts and pieces in a pile.

Ordering parts and pieces is one thing, knowing what to do with those pieces is a whole-nother extreme.



Post it post it post it!

:mrgreen:
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Man, in Roll It Up forums, i have learned more about physics and electricity than in school.
I found one company, called them via phone to Germany, they will contact me asap. Hope for posisitve answer.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
uzerneims said:
Man, in Roll It Up forums, i have learned more about physics and electricity than in school.
I found one company, called them via phone to Germany, they will contact me asap. Hope for posisitve answer.
Click to expand...
Isn't it great?

The members here, new and old, couldn't be any cooler to chat with. Sometimes we get on each other's nerves, but at the end of the day we're just a group of nerds trying to mix science with horticulture, all the while getting high (well some of us that is :wink:).
 
uzerneims

uzerneims

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
Isn't it great?

The members here, new and old, couldn't be any cooler to chat with. Sometimes we get on each other's nerves, but at the end of the day we're just a group of nerds trying to mix science with horticulture, all the while getting high (well some of us that is :wink:).
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Imagine how @SupraSPL feels, when he got to reply to same question everytime - CAN I DRIVE THIS COB WITH IS 1.4A DRIVER? Haha :)
But that is life of the teacher - there will be small humanoids, who will ask you the same questions - but in the end you've made them in to super-humans :)
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
Any input on Décor Food Vero 18 1750K & 2500K ? I wrote an email to Bridgelux about SPD's a week ago, haven't got any response yet. It'd great if the 1750K one had any decent efficiency.
 
kamikaza

kamikaza

Well-Known Member
Hello gang

i am not hanging alot in this forum, but i know this is the place for DIY leds

i built already 150W led bar with 3 CXA3070 driven at 1.4A to supplement my 2 600w HPS, and i am happy with the resolts (thanks for all the heros here - you gave me the inspiration)

now i want to build a led bar for a friend, he grows in a small closet and wants to supplement his led panel with COB's bar to cover some space the panel doesn't.

the space we need to cover is 80 centimeter long and 20 cm wide.

i am thinking about 4 vero18 driven at 700 ma. that's 20.1 watt per COB at 25 TC, 80.4 watt total for the light bar.

do you think it's a good planing?

which color is the best from clone to harvest? the guy veg the clones for 10 days, and then flower. so i was thinking to get the vero18 3000k 80 cri, but now i tend to buy the 3500k 80 cri. what do you guys think?


the COB's will be placed 20 cm apart from each other, so my bar should be slightly longer then 60 cm, the 2 end ones will be on the edges of it. i will use activ cooling, so i hope there won't be heat issues.

i ordered from heatsinkusa the 4.230", 27" long.
this one - http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-230-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

the aluminum bar will be cooled by two 92mm sunon fans, 55 cfm each, forcing air down to the heatsink. those - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ME92251VX-000U-A99/259-1650-ND/4247625


the total vf of the 4 COB's will be around 115vf, so i want to get the meanwell LPC-100-700. it's voltage output is 72-143v.
http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=lpc-100


the driver will be mounted on the heatsink itself, and i hope the air movment from the fans will cool it a bit.

all 4 COB's will be on stream of course, and i want to use the MOLEX and WAGO connectors. i didn't find in the molex information about the maximum VF possible. is it 18 AWG wires? will it handle 115 vf?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=0688014229&vendor=900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321592049392?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

any comments or sugestions are wellcomes, thanks!
 
Mechmike

Mechmike

Well-Known Member
The Vero line has a bit more red than the Cree CXA. I use the 3500k for that reason. The 3500k has plenty of red for flowering and would be OK for the little ones too. 5000k is what I use for clones, vegging and to keep my mother plant.
Also, your plans look good to me. I like that you're planning to drive them at 700ma. You'll get much better efficiency driving them soft.
You don't need 18 gauge wire for your led strings. 20 gauge is really overkill but that's what I use. The Molex connectors for Vero I bought from Digikey had really tiny wires, like 30 gauge and they worked fine powering 4 on a string.
 
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Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Mechmike said:
The Vero line has a bit more red than the Cree CXA. I use the 3500k for that reason. The 3500k has plenty of red for flowering and would be OK for the little ones too. 5000k is what I use for clones, vegging and to keep my mother plant.
Also, your plans look good to me. I like that you're planning to drive them at 700ma. You'll get much better efficiency driving them soft.
You don't need 18 gauge wire for your led strings. 20 gauge is really overkill but that's what I use. The Molex connectors for Vero I bought from Digikey had really tiny wires, like 30 gauge and they worked fine powering 4 on a string.
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I bought the same Molex connectors, think they are actually 28 gauge. This is the smallest I have seen so far at least....last night after reading came across something that I think is pertinent.

28 AWG Strand was rated for 1.4A for chassis wiring and .144 amps for power transmission and 30 was less [thinking this was for 1 foot of return loop, so 2 feet of 28 is where the rating is calculated I believe]. However that is for AC and I haven't looked again for DC standards. FIY, that is about 25 watts on the AC side. So I wonder about powering long strings?

What am I missing?

:peace:
 
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