mastakoosh
Well-Known Member
damn trans gender bastards always trying to pee in the wheaties.
And it Begins Fletch gets dirty....
- Thread starter FilthyFletch
- Start date
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
Yeah thats what you get when using seeds a bunch of shit ya dont want lol.I actually just started a replacement soil grow.I took down (god help me) my big aero setup and am prepping that area for 18 soil grown plants. These will be from clone the same strain I use in my aero setups.I actually just popped the clones that rooted in thier rockwool into some started pots of soil to get them vegging before tey go into the reg grow area.Ill post that grow up.Not sure if I will use any nutes in that grow or just the guano and resin builder like suager daddy and molassses.Oh I will be using humboldt counties gravity .I got some and will start these purps on it also next watering for last 4 weeks or so.
mastakoosh
Well-Known Member
oh and the purps look nice. good luck with the replacement grow. looks like you got the plan well at hand.
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
Well the main points I see in both setups is that in an aero or hydro grow you can get a much fater grow and flower look at it like this in aero I flower for 5 weeks then harvets after 10 days of veg. Soil Im looking 14 days or more veg and 8-9 weeks flower. Aero you can have a little tray with plants in net pots vegging ready so you can just pop them in the other setup as soon as its availiable.Soil you either have to have some room to have new vegged plants in full sized pots ready to swap out in the grow room when its open sp room is at a premium.Soil I believe can get a larger plant with more bud if given the needed space.Soil will have thicker stalks then aero not much difference in a flood and drain stalk though.Tatses are different as hydro /aero is a smoother cleaner taste while soil has a stronger earthy taste which isnt bad either way just different.Aer/hydro uses a lot less room and has less by product waste when finished jst your trim scraps.Soil you gotta dump all that used soil and the trimmings and dirt is kinda hard to dump after a few grows if your growing multiple plants.Plant matter isnt an issue either grow just make your scrap hash then use the old lawn mower and mulch the left overs into dust then you can do alot to dispose of that stuff.I think it all depends on your space and what your comfortable with. I find aero or hydro easier to control then soil as with soil you cant really regualate as quickly but both are good once you learn how they both operate correctly.
Dr High
Well-Known Member
I have only grown in soil before and i think the soil grows are little harsh too but down here the hydro is much harsher then the weed i grew in soil. Maybe people dont waych jtheir ph?? i have no clue but our hydro is harsh! i LOVE my HOME GROWN white russian.
donnieosmond
Well-Known Member
hydro is for nubbzzzzzzzzz
Dr High
Well-Known Member
How old are you donnieosmond.
donnieosmond
Well-Known Member
I was just kidding. I'm 23. Sheesh
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
lol I got the joke.Anyways.I am having soil issues as I expected. Basically the plants leaves have all went yelloow on me. I think maybe to much phos and not enough nitrogen. Thgats weird since they were nice and green but the miracle grow nitrogen must be used up. I have done a double flush gonna do 1 more pure wtare flush and hit a light nitrogen boost at 2 watersing and see what happens.I was adding 0-13-0 bat guano at one watering a week at 3/4 strength manufacture suggests.Was also adding sugar daddy and molasses but gonne go just water and then the nitrogen and see if we can get some greening back.Might be a mag deficiency also so gonna think on this but here are some pics at wround 4 weeks flower.
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FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
Now a few pics I took of the worst of the fan leaves.They are all yellow almost no green and this is worst case of the lower fans...
wafflehouselover
Well-Known Member
thats a very ugly soil grow, i thought soil is more forgiving or someshit like that. *shrugs* =)
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
Well like I have always said for me soil is a tricky way to grow. Its hard to control and maintain unlike aero or hydro where its a qucik fix and easy diagnosis so for me soil is the hard way to grow thats why I gave it up years ago.Anyways did some looking and went and grabbed a niffty little muti meter show soil moisture, the soil ph and the light intensity all in one tool for $9. I did a check and found that there was a ph issue that doesnt show when ph the run off. The run off water was phing at about 6.6-6.8 but the soil ph meter says actual soil ph is almost 8 which should be my culprit. Now my question is this.In hydro you just add some ph down and your ph issue is fixed in ohhh 3 seconds.Can I use my ph down podwer mix it with my next watering to have the water ph down to about 5 and then water the low ph water into the soil? will this drop the soil ph at all or do I have to use a different form of ph lowering like I have no idea powder sulphur?? On did I over nute I dont think so as I havent given any nutes other then 2 watering after going into 12/12 with a 0-13-0 bat guano tea at 3/4 strength with a some sugar daddy.Help me out soil guys will my low phed water do the trick to get the soil ph down and how far you think it should come down to 6 what?? Heres my toy...
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mastakoosh
Well-Known Member
i have the same thing which works well for the moisture meter. but i tried the ph meter and on 10 different plants including my herb plants and the ph never changed or fluctuated. wasn't sure if the ph meter was accurate. does yours work ok for you?
wafflehouselover
Well-Known Member
fletch i feel the same way about soil =)
donnieosmond
Well-Known Member
You should change your name to WoolyFletch you hairy bastard.
SnowWhite
Well-Known Member
I found this post from mogie a little while ago, you might find it helpful.......
How can I raise or lower the pH of my soil mix?
Growing in soil and adjusting pH levels
A lot of gardeners have trouble with the pH of their soil. A high pH can lock out needed nutrients and mimic other problems like Fe and Mg deficiencies. The biggest mistake new growers make is to try and correct pH problems too quickly. The first step in determining if high pH is the real problem, is to pick up a good pH tester. Don't be afraid to shell out the cash for a good one, it's well worth it!
Here are some recommendations: (All sell for under $100.00)
1. Milwaukee makes two styles of hand-held pH meters. A small "pen" called the Sharp and the larger Smart Meter. Both are easy to use. The Sharp pens are splash-proof (although not totally waterproof), and have a large easy to read display. They also have a detachable, replaceable probe.
2. Oakton - Same type of pH tester as Milwaukee makes, but it's made a little better imho. These are totally waterproof. (It floats.)
3. Shindengen ISFET pH Meters are state-of-the-art pH pens and work with a totally different method of measurement. This pen uses a solid state Ion Sensitive Field Effect Transistor (ISFET) instead of the fragile glass electrodes used by traditional pH pens. They have replaceable tips that change from opaque to clear when they need to be changed.
What is pH, and what do the terms acidic and alkaline mean?
The acidity or alkalinity of the soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). Basically it's a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil, and the type of soil that you have. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acidic soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is considered to be alkaline. A pH of 7.0 is neutral.
Adjusting your soil pH :
Once you have determined the pH of your soil with a good tester, you can amend the soil if needed to accommodate the plants in your garden using inexpensive materials commonly available at your local garden center.
Adjust soil pH slowly over several days time, and check pH often as you go. Radical changes in pH may cause osmotic shock damage to the roots.
Raising soil pH : (to make it more alkaline)
It is generally easier to make soil mixes more alkaline than it is to make them more acidic. The addition of dolomite lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells will help to raise the soil pH.
by MisterIto
In soil: add dolomite limestone to the soil; use small amounts of hydrated lime.
Raising hydroponic pH : (to make it more alkaline)
In hydroponics: use potassium silicate, provides silicon at an effective doseage.
In bioponics/hydro-organics: add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.
Lowering soil pH : (to make it more acidic)
If your soil needs to be more acidic, sawdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and especially peat moss, will lower the soil pH.
by MisterIto
bloodmeal/cottonseed meal during vegetative; bonemeal during flowering.
Lowering hydroponic pH : (to make it more acidic)
In hydroponics: use nitric acid during vegetative; phosphoric acid during flowering.
Contributed by: Spiritual.Fa
23-08-2003
Stabilizing pH with Dolomite lime
The best way to stable PH is by adding 1 ounce of Dolomite Lime per 1 gallon of planting soil.
Dolomite Lime is available in garden nurseries. Buy the fine Dolomite powder (There may be several kinds of Dolomite like Rough, Medium, Fine)
Dolomite Lime has been a useful PH stabilizer for years, since it has a neutral PH of 7 when added to your soil it stabilizes your soil at PH 7.
Mix the dry soil medium and dolomite together really well, give the mix a good watering then after the water has had chance to settle and leech into the soil a bit give the mix a really good stir. Then water the soil/lime mix and give it another stir
Best plan is to mix fine dolomite lime into your mix before planting. Fine Dolomite will help stabilize your pH; however, if the ph becomes unstable or changes, you can then use Hydrated Dolomite Lime. Add some of the hydrated lime to luke warm water and give it a good stir then water your plants with it. Give the plants a good watering with this hydrated lime added and your PH should fall or rise back to 7
Other Benefits of Dolomite Lime
Dolomite lime is also high in two secondary nutes that can often be overlooked by fertilizers; dolomite is high in both (Mg) Magnesium and (Ca) Calcium.
How can I raise or lower the pH of my soil mix?
Growing in soil and adjusting pH levels
A lot of gardeners have trouble with the pH of their soil. A high pH can lock out needed nutrients and mimic other problems like Fe and Mg deficiencies. The biggest mistake new growers make is to try and correct pH problems too quickly. The first step in determining if high pH is the real problem, is to pick up a good pH tester. Don't be afraid to shell out the cash for a good one, it's well worth it!
Here are some recommendations: (All sell for under $100.00)
1. Milwaukee makes two styles of hand-held pH meters. A small "pen" called the Sharp and the larger Smart Meter. Both are easy to use. The Sharp pens are splash-proof (although not totally waterproof), and have a large easy to read display. They also have a detachable, replaceable probe.
2. Oakton - Same type of pH tester as Milwaukee makes, but it's made a little better imho. These are totally waterproof. (It floats.)
3. Shindengen ISFET pH Meters are state-of-the-art pH pens and work with a totally different method of measurement. This pen uses a solid state Ion Sensitive Field Effect Transistor (ISFET) instead of the fragile glass electrodes used by traditional pH pens. They have replaceable tips that change from opaque to clear when they need to be changed.
What is pH, and what do the terms acidic and alkaline mean?
The acidity or alkalinity of the soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). Basically it's a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil, and the type of soil that you have. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acidic soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is considered to be alkaline. A pH of 7.0 is neutral.
Adjusting your soil pH :
Once you have determined the pH of your soil with a good tester, you can amend the soil if needed to accommodate the plants in your garden using inexpensive materials commonly available at your local garden center.
Adjust soil pH slowly over several days time, and check pH often as you go. Radical changes in pH may cause osmotic shock damage to the roots.
Raising soil pH : (to make it more alkaline)
It is generally easier to make soil mixes more alkaline than it is to make them more acidic. The addition of dolomite lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells will help to raise the soil pH.
by MisterIto
In soil: add dolomite limestone to the soil; use small amounts of hydrated lime.
Raising hydroponic pH : (to make it more alkaline)
In hydroponics: use potassium silicate, provides silicon at an effective doseage.
In bioponics/hydro-organics: add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.
Lowering soil pH : (to make it more acidic)
If your soil needs to be more acidic, sawdust, composted leaves, wood chips, cottonseed meal, leaf mold and especially peat moss, will lower the soil pH.
by MisterIto
bloodmeal/cottonseed meal during vegetative; bonemeal during flowering.
Lowering hydroponic pH : (to make it more acidic)
In hydroponics: use nitric acid during vegetative; phosphoric acid during flowering.
Contributed by: Spiritual.Fa
23-08-2003
Stabilizing pH with Dolomite lime
The best way to stable PH is by adding 1 ounce of Dolomite Lime per 1 gallon of planting soil.
Dolomite Lime is available in garden nurseries. Buy the fine Dolomite powder (There may be several kinds of Dolomite like Rough, Medium, Fine)
Dolomite Lime has been a useful PH stabilizer for years, since it has a neutral PH of 7 when added to your soil it stabilizes your soil at PH 7.
Mix the dry soil medium and dolomite together really well, give the mix a good watering then after the water has had chance to settle and leech into the soil a bit give the mix a really good stir. Then water the soil/lime mix and give it another stir
Best plan is to mix fine dolomite lime into your mix before planting. Fine Dolomite will help stabilize your pH; however, if the ph becomes unstable or changes, you can then use Hydrated Dolomite Lime. Add some of the hydrated lime to luke warm water and give it a good stir then water your plants with it. Give the plants a good watering with this hydrated lime added and your PH should fall or rise back to 7
Other Benefits of Dolomite Lime
Dolomite lime is also high in two secondary nutes that can often be overlooked by fertilizers; dolomite is high in both (Mg) Magnesium and (Ca) Calcium.
very resourceful thanks snow white! and mogie for the extra credits