ANY marijuana question by DR. BAIGOHAZE

riddleme

Well-Known Member
it wasn't meant to be a test, as to some questions i would like to work together on and get to the buttom of but okay. that light situation really depends on temp and if the light is cooled go with no less than 30 cm cause if thats a new bulb . that will be givin you anywhere from 3500 to 5500 lumens and i know that sounds low but that in verse square law kills the intensity any more than 55 cm you might as well be doing cfl whispy buds no good. i would do as close as possible with feeling good about it meaning your hands don't burn the leafs wont but about 10 to 14 inches, and i would have to say theres room to play with heat with sativas so strain matters as well the final flush is to really get those salts breaken down so you have a well balanced ...everythings pretty much having to do with the uptake. Personal opinion , if you have alot of light and you feel good about it start no later than 6 days before but no sooner than 12. some people look at it as though its a luxury but you really want to get that done, or else all your here is "well whys it sparkling then". then again with if your able to get a clearing solution you can do up to 4 and even three days be fore harvest. apply just as you would the nutrients solution with wand perferably and 10 percent run off or more is ideal.if ur using a hydroponic system change the water after the first four to six says of application assuming your def which you should be, using a clearing solution. the stems snapping thing is up in the air and that my friend is a fact, some say the buds will take in the nutrients left in the stem and taste harsh if left on that long so i understand the process and that does play in but only for the first 5 days or so then the rest is all just degradation of chemicals and what not down to the best smelling and tasting buds. some say it (the snapping) tis the only true way to proof i am on the fence still give me a day and i will give you my final statement on that. thanks get at me
if it was a test you failed IMO by spouting forum nonsense which says to me that you are not an MJ god with actual experience in these matters. you will be a true asset to those that want to believe the hype and myths but that don't make good grows, I actually had higher hopes ???
 

SCCA

Active Member
to answer that question you must know why ph even varies at all:The ratio in uptake of anions (negatively charged nutrients) and cations (positively charged nutrients) by plants usually causes substantial shifts in pH. In general, an excess of cation over anion leads to a decrease in pH, whereas an excess of anion over cation uptake leads to an increase in pH. As nitrogen (an element required in large quantities for healthy plant growth) may be supplied either as a cation (ammonium - NH4+) or an anion (nitrate - NO3-), the ratio of these two forms of nitrogen in the nutrient solution can have large effects on both the rate and direction of pH changes with time. This shift in pH can be surprisingly fast.

Daylight photosynthesis produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). At dusk photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration and this coupled with the respiration of micro organisms and the decomposition of organic matter uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends to decrease (pH rises).

Most varieties of marijuana grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22OC.

In low light (overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises).

with that said i believe it's the negative and or positive charges that really effect the ability of the plants root system to accept the nutrients.

And i would also like to say i knew everything on marijuana i said let me be which transfers into let me be your weed god. i was just trying to help anyone with any question about marijuana.l have been learning and growing for a some time and have find many a books that have great info but i mean not even jorge cervantes's Marijuana bible (yes bible call him self a god or at least the creator of a bible which i mean you can def grow some killer buds from but still i was left with a ton of questions. and then i take a look at this site. it has so many falses posts and just a bunch of good people but 99 percent are winging it even after coming on here and asking questions so i just wanted to start something that is factual. and doesn't need to be questioned, but what can i say. let em hate. and any info on here (my posts) is all learned by the internet or other books and alot from experience.

very good post, im glad you know what you are talking about. :D
 

rzza

Well-Known Member
Will marijuana grow more efficiently at say a constant 85 degrees than it would it the temp was constantly adjusting between 70-80 as one tries to control the temps with an open window?

How is CO2 supplemented if it requires a sealed area which would mean little fresh air? Or is it given and sealed up several times a day instead of constantly?
what kind of quiz is this? lol
 

ArcadiaAbsent

Active Member
I've seen pumpkins grown bigger using pure mycorrhizae added into the soil.
Xtreme Gardening has some pics on their site of some big old pumpkins grown with there mykos product. I'm using Azos and Mykos as well as cal carb from them, killer stuff, the growth I'm seeing after adding their product is almost silly.
 

Auzzie07

Well-Known Member
Xtreme Gardening has some pics on their site of some big old pumpkins grown with there mykos product. I'm using Azos and Mykos as well as cal carb from them, killer stuff, the growth I'm seeing after adding their product is almost silly.
This is exactly what I was referring to.
 

Mike Young

Well-Known Member
Arcadia/auzzie.. What is azos and mykos? I wanna grow giant pumpkin buds! I don't care if it's not pure & of the earth nonsense. I'd put formadehyde in my res if it gave me tree trunk buds.
 

ArcadiaAbsent

Active Member
Arcadia/auzzie.. What is azos and mykos? I wanna grow giant pumpkin buds! I don't care if it's not pure & of the earth nonsense. I'd put formadehyde in my res if it gave me tree trunk buds.
Azos is a bacteria and Mykos is a fungus. They are sold by xtreme gardening ( http://xtreme-gardening.com/ ). Check out their site, tons of cool info. I've been using cal carb azos and mykos on my most recent grow. Four weeks into flower and my plants are taller, thicker, and generally larger than the same strain was after 10 weeks at harvest. I'm very impressed with the benefits these products have given me. I recently took some clones with azos and after only 36 hours they are showing bounce back signs of regeneration. I expect roots in a 5-7 day period, much like a ez-cloner would produce. Truly great stuff, pick some up, it lasts a long time too, great bang for your buck.
 

Auzzie07

Well-Known Member
Arcadia/auzzie.. What is azos and mykos? I wanna grow giant pumpkin buds! I don't care if it's not pure & of the earth nonsense. I'd put formadehyde in my res if it gave me tree trunk buds.
Extreme Gardening makes this stuff that is pure mycorrhizae which you amend into your soil and its living spores for beneficial bacteria (fungi, I believe) that forms around your roots and acts like cilia for the root structure. So you've got an elaborate root structure, and then surrounding the roots would be a fine white fungus that helps the plant break down, and take in, the nutrients. This is all from my memory though, and I didn't fact check any of this, so I could be wrong.

I did a test awhile back to see if an overabundance of myco would be more beneficial than the recommended about (more beneficial bacteria, more nutrient uptake, right?) Well surprise, surprise, it didn't make a difference. It was around the similar growth of the plant which I gave standard amount of myco, but was still better than that with no myco.
 

Auzzie07

Well-Known Member
I didn't read arcadia's answer before replying. He is probably more correct than what I said: azos is bacteria, myco is fungi.
 

Mike Young

Well-Known Member
Will marijuana grow more efficiently at say a constant 85 degrees than it would it the temp was constantly adjusting between 70-80 as one tries to control the temps with an open window?

How is CO2 supplemented if it requires a sealed area which would mean little fresh air? Or is it given and sealed up several times a day instead of constantly?

I would like to know the answer to the temp question. In nature the temp drops at night and plants seems to do fine. But when growing indoors, a constant temp is pretty easy to maintain.
 
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