Dm one could be ok if you don't mind spending a lot of money. Plus dm nutes are pharmaceutical grade chemicals which is what you want. I think canna and dm are the top 2 for cleanest synthetic nutes. But dm one is very watered down. You'll use it by the gallon and it'll add up cost wise. I used dm gold a and b. And for me they always wanted more nitrogen, and I needed calmag (even though dm claims you don't with ro water). So far with maxigrow powder in veg I have no deficiencies (not even calmag need). Flower I need more time to make a personal judgement on maxibloom powder. But I'm very confident on recommending both based on heavy research and results. If you want a true one part nutrient I say with extreme confidence maxigrow in veg, maxibloom in flower. Each bag of powder is 15 dollars and will last more than one veg and flower cycle. Just mix powder and warm water in a mason jar and dump in res. Simple
Any one part nutes that are good for DWC?
- Thread starter farmasensist
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GrowerGoneWild
Well-Known Member
K+
Pretty much all you need in maxigrow in veg, ive tried it with lots of strains, no problems. And like you said you dont need calmag if you are using in veg. Maxigrow really shines in a production type garden, simple and fast to batch up nutrients and cheap!.
Maxibloom has a few issues, it seems not to dissolve as well, I'll have to check but I understand its not a good idea to get maxi to dissolve with hot water. And I think the end product with maxibloom is harsher than say Flora Nova. But its much easier to use than Flora Nova.
I've been discussing with other people on other boards mixing equal parts of maxibloom and maxigrow, as either a transition fert or an all purpose fert. The averaged NPK is 7.5-10-14, so you could use this during stretch.
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
hey bro, stick with general hydroponics, you can get either the nova series or the powder maxi series each is 1 for grow, 1 for bloom no mixing and they are ph balanced so if you add the right amount to your water no ph worries ive used both, for years i used the liquid nova series and got great yields then last year i was short on cash and tried the maxi grow, and maxi bloom,a little harder to mix being pwder form but ill never go back its cheaper and works great and neither causes ay problems in dwc or ebb n flow..i use some additives but they are really not needed both have everything a plant needs,,love gh
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
is it the maxi groow,maxi bloom stuff?? stick with it cheap and very efective...if you really want to get everything out of your buds i recomend adding the koolbloom powder for the last 2 weeks of bloom dont waste money on the liquid koolbloom, also i add mad farmer N.U.T.S. ITS FULVIC AND HUMIC acids and alows your roots to use everything available in your water,,in my opinion its the same as gh dimond nectar at half the price and better
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
yes, love the maxi grow and mxi bloom, no clogs, cheap n efective
Send me that link please. That's actually my planned schedule also. 3tsp grow 3tsp bloom in 10gal. Puts it around 1.4ec (if my math is correct). For first 2 weeks of flower. Then I'm running 10 weeks so weeks 6 7 and 8 I'm cutting maxibloom down a little and using a product similar to koolbloom. ( It's cultured solutions bud booster late powder). Dropped maxibloom just enough to keep ec at 1.4 during those 3 weeks.
I add fresh compost tea to my res every 3 days and change res one a week. So I get the assisted uptake from that as opposed to bottled humic. Roots love the tea
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
hell yes, i threw lots of money away buying other stuff till i tried the maxi series savin money and bigger yields,and love how it balances my ph perfect...its the shit!
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
any one ever used carbo blast powder?? just bought it wondering if any ones used it and how it is??
also in response to the not dissolving so well, i have read that also. lately ive been lazy and i just put room temp RO water (68 degrees) 3/4 fill on a mason jar, and put the powder in there and shake vigorously for 30-60 seconds and dump into the res instantly. works fine. the first time i used it i tried the hot water method (as was recommended on the thread i read) and i mixed it regularly over the course of like 8 hours. never got it to fully dissolve (almost all of it did). then i let it sit out in the garage overnight and a full day later when i went to use it i shook it some more and it was all dissolved. so i think it takes a long period of sitting in the water before it will fully dissolve. either way i just do the quick method of a 30-60 second mason jar vigorous shaking. works good enough. doesnt need to be an exact science, if it did i wouldnt be using a 1 part powder supplement.
something that did intrigue me was someone said they used a magic bullet blender to mix their maxi powder in water. i imagine this would work great, but seems overkill in a process that is supposed to be simplified.
EDIT:
oh i forgot, i wanted to reference the 'harshness' of the maxi powder you referred to. i plan on doing water only for the last 2 weeks of dwc. do you think this would negate any harshness that might come with synthetic nutrients in dwc? i plan on running it a full 70 days because i wanted to go thru day 56 full strength nutes (most of my strains can be cut at this time), but running 70 just to give them the extra 2 weeks of water only to flush all the residual out, without sacrificing any yield.
my first round of dwc is going into the 2 week water flush at the end, and my 2nd round is going into 3rd week of flower. its only been on the maxibloom for a week but i got slimed because i didnt stick to my tea schedule and the roots paid the price. so its bouncing back so i cant give any honest feedback on the maxibloom on an unhealthy plant.
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i have not but i wanted to chime in with my setup, (DWC) i cannot add sugars or organic nutrients straight into the res without taking a chance in getting brown slime on my roots. if i want to add something organic i need to add it to my tea brew and let the microbes break it down before it goes into the res. i brew my standard tea with RO water, molasses, sucanat (basically dehydrated molasses), EWC, alaska humus. sometimes ill add some liquid karma, powdered humic acid, and i was thinking of maybe adding some rhizotonic.
but be cautious if u are running dwc, and you are running a sterile enviroment, adding food for microbes (such as a sweetener/carb) can turn bad very quickly if you even have a small speck of bad bacteria or fungus.
GrowerGoneWild
Well-Known Member
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=294080
GH is ok with mixing the 2, just go with 1/2 strength each.
http://generalhydroponics.com/site/index.php/resources/faqs/nutrient_and_flora_questions/
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GrowerGoneWild
Well-Known Member
I dont think its a big deal it doesnt dissolve instantly, I usually keep a batch of maxigrow/maxibloom in a bucket at all times. However if I mixed up a 50 gallon batch, then theres some at the bottom of the tank/container etc.. but it seems not to be a problem.
Adding hot water.. what I do remember is that is does something with how it reacts with something in the water. I'll ask general hydroponics directly.
As far as harshness with maxi.. I would say go easy with the feeding.. I did "flush" with clearex (2 changes) and was running water with GH fruit n fusion, at the end (for a few days) but was cut short.. I started having root rot problems so I just cut them down, they were ready to go. I thought it still made my throat a bit itchy.
Just go easy with the feed, dont slam a bunch of boosters in at the end, I think it would make the flush better and you wont be wasting so much product.
I guess some people call it a flush, I just dont see the point of feeding so much at the end, when its going to be cut, the gains are small..
GrowerGoneWild
Well-Known Member
Correct... I can trace back my root rot infection when I started using carbohydrate/sweetener. Zero problems until I used a sugar product.
the plan for me is to flush with plain RO water but keep using the benefical tea. i think it'll help with the flushing process, but the main thing to keep the roots healthy the last 2 weeks.
for me no matter what i run in the res i always go by EC levels, if im running maxibloom at 1.4 ec and i switch to a booster late in flower, i reduce maxibloom until the mixture of the two products has me at the same EC level. i think when people burn their plants or overdo it is because they are adding a booster but not watching their nutrient concentration in their res. i dont think its the 'more' part that is making a difference its moving around the n-p-k ratios to a more ideal range suited for that part of the plants life. that being said i need to re-evaluate what nutes im going to use in the final stages to achieve the 1-2-3 ratio i want for the final 3 weeks of flower.
for me no matter what i run in the res i always go by EC levels, if im running maxibloom at 1.4 ec and i switch to a booster late in flower, i reduce maxibloom until the mixture of the two products has me at the same EC level. i think when people burn their plants or overdo it is because they are adding a booster but not watching their nutrient concentration in their res. i dont think its the 'more' part that is making a difference its moving around the n-p-k ratios to a more ideal range suited for that part of the plants life. that being said i need to re-evaluate what nutes im going to use in the final stages to achieve the 1-2-3 ratio i want for the final 3 weeks of flower.
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to let u know been useing maxi bloom for awile now, you dont need 2 weeks of flush,espeacially if u cure your weed. if you can get general hydroponics kleen, mix it with water and only need to run it for 3 days to get completely flushed buds,pluss it will sanitize your growing enviroment,pumps,emitters,etc.. just thought it may help as who wants to wait an extra 2 weeks if they are done. Also agree with the brown slime in dwc can cause problems to overcome this every time i change my nutrients i drain the system fill it with kleen and run it for 20 minutes then drain and refil with regular nutes, a little extra work but it cleans everything as well as your roots..try that and you will be very pleased!
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
I think too many people just keep topping off with more nuts is were problems lie because the ec keeps rising that way,,i always top off with ph balanced plain water until its time to drain and change my res which i do either every ten to 14 days. by topping off with plain ph balanced water my ec levels normally stay steady or drop but not much.
maybe i need to run more experiements on bud finishers to see what the results are. i noticed on my cherry pie it made the lower buds dense up, but havent ran without for comparison. got some brainstorming to do.
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
Seems like a lot of us are useing gh maxi series, that alone to me makes a statement that it works! i also wanted to say i did use the nova series foe a long time and loved it, the only problem i had was every time i had to change my res i had to scrub the brown tint off everything..also as far as bacteria ive never done it but a friend of mine swears by adding a drop or 2 of bleach to his res to kill any bacteria,,anybody ever heard of that?? i think hes adding a killer chemical to his water,,but i may be wrong as its extremely deluted
TheChemist77
Well-Known Member
try useing the powder form of koolbloom the last 2 weeks itll impress you but skip the liquid its a waste,,but follow directions and use it spareingly its powerfull and helps the buds to ripen thats why u can only use it the last 2 weeks, then flush with gh kleen for 3 days...promise youll never turn back, it amazed me
yes i thought about going the bleach route, but the chemical in it (cant recall the name off hand) is toxic to the plant. im sure if its diluted enough like anything else you can skate by with it.
i use bleach to clean equipment. i thought of trying it out of despiration when the brown slime still came after using a heavy dose of DM zone. i still think about running physan 20 all through cycle to keep my res clean. but the reason i choose to stick with beneficials is i know as long as i keep innoculating every 3 days, i will NEVER have a problem with rootzone. and everything else ive tried as far as sterile, running beneficials has my roots growing at least 4x as fast and they look healthier than any sterile ive tried. roots in sterile look a beautiful white and its appealing to the eye. when i run beneficials i get buildup on the sides, on my airstones, on tubes, and even on the roots. i can pull my roots up right now in veg and they will have dark material on them that almost looks like slime. but the difference between bad slime and beneficial slime is i can take my plants to the sink and spray water on beneficial slime and itll spray right off revealing extremely healthy white roots, super thick and fat and basically the textbook image of what a healthy rootsystem should look like. and the beneficial slime does not hinder root growth at all, its just the bacteria colonizing my rootzone. and thats fine by me because the results rock.
on the otherhand, pathogen slime sticks to the roots and smothers them. turning them brown and brittle. i cant spray it off, i cant rub it off, i cant do a damn thing to get it off the roots. and not only that, the roots get so weak the slightest tug and they will break off.
i stick with the bennies because it works hands down thru every situation, and you can even run res temps higher than 'ideal' with no problems (although i still keep my res at 66-6
. plus its cheap as hell. i can buy a huge bag of EWC and alaska humus for less than 20 dollars. and a bottle of molasses for 5 dollars and have enough ingredients to brew tea for months. plus i keep my mother plants in soil and they like to get hit with the left over tea 
also chemist have you ran without koolbloom at the end, like just running maxibloom until the end before flush? and if so was there a difference?