Any way to add mesh?

fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
If you want to go to a system of that size, id sort out a reliable way to get water to it first. I got a line tapped into the water pipe in my basement that goes to my filter and use a garden hose through the window for full fills. Maybe you could use the water line under the sink to give yourself a more permanent hookup that you can just run a longer hose down there. My garden hoses were both frozen the other day so I had to do something like this to fill my barrel.
I have a 55 gal box outside my tent, but its completely overkill. I would have been fine with a 27 or something similar.
I have a 55 gallon barrel stannding next to it that I use for auto top off on a float valve. The total system volume for the 12 site 17 gal was around 120-130 gallons + 55 gal barrel top off when it was at full operating level.

Here is the system as I have it set up now. I cut it in half before this crop because i didnt need 12 for personal use. I lowered the level a bit so its 55 gals just like the barrel.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
Then what size are you using for res? where is that in tour picture?

You have a build thread or like a parts list? yours looks pretty much what i would like to accomplish

What’s your guys most time efficient way of filling water to fill the systems? I don’t have a water source on the floor I use... I have a garden hose attached to the sink, that’s going upstairs. To buckets. then i fill those with water. Then nute them or whatever then carry those into flower room, then put pump in bucket into res.... time consuming
Click to expand...
Use the smallest totes then. 7 gallons. You want to keep your water volume low. That's gonna be quite a lot of work
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin said:
If you want to go to a system of that size, id sort out a reliable way to get water to it first. I got a line tapped into the water pipe in my basement that goes to my filter and use a garden hose through the window for full fills. Maybe you could use the water line under the sink to give yourself a more permanent hookup that you can just run a longer hose down there. My garden hoses were both frozen the other day so I had to do something like this to fill my barrel.
I have a 55 gal box outside my tent, but its completely overkill. I would have been fine with a 27 or something similar.
I have a 55 gallon barrel stannding next to it that I use for auto top off on a float valve. The total system volume for the 12 site 17 gal was around 120-130 gallons + 55 gal barrel top off when it was at full operating level.

Here is the system as I have it set up now. I cut it in half before this crop because i didnt need 12 for personal use. I lowered the level a bit so its 55 gals just like the barrel.
Click to expand...
I’d be fine with.

If i can get a permanent way to hook a hose up. Having a 55 gallon tote in my storage area of the veg room. I could then pump from there to my flower room to the res. Lot less arm work. I imagine there should be a way to do that without getting a plumber ..?
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Use the smallest totes then. 7 gallons. You want to keep your water volume low. That's gonna be quite a lot of work
Click to expand...
I’d like to go bigger so I’ll attempt to see if there’s a way to get a better source of water up there.

otherwise 7 isn’t small by any means still.
 
fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
I’d be fine with.

If i can get a permanent way to hook a hose up. Having a 55 gallon tote in my storage area of the veg room. I could then pump from there to my flower room to the res. Lot less arm work. I imagine there should be a way to do that without getting a plumber ..?
Click to expand...
depends on how your sink is hooked up. You should be able to shut the valve off under the sink and then disconnect the water line from the faucet at least. A T into that line and another line to run back up to the sink faucet and then another shut off valve with a hose adapter off of the T. If that makes sense.
Would make it as easy as screw your garden hose on and turn the valve on. Easy enough to diy with a few parts from the hardware store.
I use pumps and long hoses for as much as I can. Ive had a hernia for nearly a year so hauling buckets wasnt an option. Ive got 100ft of garden hose handy.
Those plastic barrels are usually pretty easy to source. I see them for sale around here for $20 all the time.
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin said:
depends on how your sink is hooked up. You should be able to shut the valve off under the sink and then disconnect the water line from the faucet at least. A T into that line and another line to run back up to the sink faucet and then another shut off valve with a hose adapter off of the T. If that makes sense.
Would make it as easy as screw your garden hose on and turn the valve on. Easy enough to diy with a few parts from the hardware store.
I use pumps and long hoses for as much as I can. Ive had a hernia for nearly a year so hauling buckets wasnt an option. Ive got 100ft of garden hose handy.
Those plastic barrels are usually pretty easy to source. I see them for sale around here for $20 all the time.
Click to expand...
I blew my knee out last winter( acl mcl meniscus) so buckets haven’t been tons of fun. but been being smart.

Okay will
look into that. sounds interesting

Here’s one sink-bathroom extra #1

Shit is it as easy as turning the water off with that handle.Unscrewing the faucet that connects to it. Screwing in garden hose? Woah i’ll be annoyed if i coulda done that a while ago!
 

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fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
I blew my knee out last winter( acl mcl meniscus) so buckets haven’t been tons of fun. but been being smart.

Okay will
look into that. sounds interesting

Here’s one sink-bathroom extra #1
Click to expand...
yeah you should be able to shut that cold water valve off and disconnect that braided line and add a T in there. If theres not room to put a T on top of that valve youll have to get another braided line.
If the copper lines coming in wiggle in the wall you may be better off unhooking it from the top at the sink. Those are all standard sizes so you should be able to go piece something together with a T a valve and a hose fitting in the plumbing section of your local hardware store for $10-15.
Make sure you get thread tape.
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin said:
yeah you should be able to shut that cold water valve off and disconnect that braided line and add a T in there. If theres not room to put a T on top of that valve youll have to get another braided line.
If the copper lines coming in wiggle in the wall you may be better off unhooking it from the top at the sink. Those are all standard sizes so you should be able to go piece something together with a T a valve and a hose fitting in the plumbing section of your local hardware store for $10-15.
Make sure you get thread tape.
Click to expand...
3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting

www.homedepot.com

BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting CT2-666X P - The Home Depot

This BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Brass Compression X Compression T-fitting provides a dual outlet for a water supply valve allowing 2 supply lines to be connected.
www.homedepot.com

One of these connected to where i disconnected the brained line. Then what sort of valve before my hose?

And why do you say if the copper lines wiggle to do it at the top? I see where to do that and seems like be about equal difficulty.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting

www.homedepot.com

BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting CT2-666X P - The Home Depot

This BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Brass Compression X Compression T-fitting provides a dual outlet for a water supply valve allowing 2 supply lines to be connected.
www.homedepot.com

One of these connected to where i disconnected the brained line. Then what sort of valve before my hose?

And why do you say if the copper lines wiggle to do it at the top? I see where to do that and seems like be about equal difficulty.
Click to expand...
It's called a Ball valve
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting

www.homedepot.com

BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting CT2-666X P - The Home Depot

This BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Brass Compression X Compression T-fitting provides a dual outlet for a water supply valve allowing 2 supply lines to be connected.
www.homedepot.com

One of these connected to where i disconnected the brained line. Then what sort of valve before my hose?

And why do you say if the copper lines wiggle to do it at the top? I see where to do that and seems like be about equal difficulty.
Click to expand...
If the braided line is on there tight you just wouldn't want to pry against the copper line coming out of the wall too hard without supporting it.
And yep, that's all there really is to it.
You could put one of these dishwasher adapters off of the valve or something just to give an idea.
www.homedepot.com

EasyFlex SafeFlow 3/8 in. C with EFV x 3/4 in. Garden Hose Elbow 60 in. Stainless Steel Braided Dishwasher Connector EFDC38CHBL60V - The Home Depot

EasyFlex Safeflow braided supply lines are made of reinforced PVC inner hose, stainless steel jacket, chrome-plated brass fittings and excess flow shut-off valve. Automatic excess flow shut-off valve prevents unexpected water damage by burst of hose or excessive flow of water. Provides a sturdy...
www.homedepot.com
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin said:
If the braided line is on there tight you just wouldn't want to pry against the copper line coming out of the wall too hard without supporting it.
And yep, that's all there really is to it.
You could put one of these dishwasher adapters off of the valve or something just to give an idea.
www.homedepot.com

EasyFlex SafeFlow 3/8 in. C with EFV x 3/4 in. Garden Hose Elbow 60 in. Stainless Steel Braided Dishwasher Connector EFDC38CHBL60V - The Home Depot

EasyFlex Safeflow braided supply lines are made of reinforced PVC inner hose, stainless steel jacket, chrome-plated brass fittings and excess flow shut-off valve. Automatic excess flow shut-off valve prevents unexpected water damage by burst of hose or excessive flow of water. Provides a sturdy...
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
gotcha that makes sense on the not pulling too hard copper out of the wall

This is silly but they sink would be the out of use if this is attached eh?
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
fragileassassin said:
If you want to go to a system of that size, id sort out a reliable way to get water to it first. I got a line tapped into the water pipe in my basement that goes to my filter and use a garden hose through the window for full fills. Maybe you could use the water line under the sink to give yourself a more permanent hookup that you can just run a longer hose down there. My garden hoses were both frozen the other day so I had to do something like this to fill my barrel.
I have a 55 gal box outside my tent, but its completely overkill. I would have been fine with a 27 or something similar.
I have a 55 gallon barrel stannding next to it that I use for auto top off on a float valve. The total system volume for the 12 site 17 gal was around 120-130 gallons + 55 gal barrel top off when it was at full operating level.

Here is the system as I have it set up now. I cut it in half before this crop because i didnt need 12 for personal use. I lowered the level a bit so its 55 gals just like the barrel.
Click to expand...

Right on that video is awesome.

You have a chiller?

I have never set up the float valve you have in your res from the big barrel, how do you do that ??

Otherwise i want to copy your build i think hahah
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
gotcha that makes sense on the not pulling too hard copper out of the wall

This is silly but they sink would be the out of use if this is attached eh?
Click to expand...
No man, once your valve for your garden hose is closed, it's basically like it is now. Once that's opened, then the sink would only not work if you had water coming out of the hose at the time you tried to turn on the faucet.
 
fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Nope, big point of adding the T is to maintain normal use of the sink when you arent using the hose. Otherwise you could just steal that waterline for your uses. You'll leave the wall valve on and just close the valve to the garden hose and take the hose off.

trapdevil said:
Right on that video is awesome.

You have a chiller?

I have never set up the float valve you have in your res from the big barrel, how do you do that ??

Otherwise i want to copy your build i think hahah
Click to expand...
Yeah chiller is in the video at the end of the outside res between it and the giant air filter, it just dumps back into the end of the 55gal box.
Float valves are super easy. I just have a 1/2" barbed "bulkhead" fitting installed in the bottom of the barrel and it feeds a half inch line the goes to the float valve in the box.
I use these float valves.
 
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fragileassassin

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
And btw, the thread title makes me cringe every time I see it lmao.
I just had mesh surgically implanted in me and it has been a no fun few days so far.
 
trapdevil

trapdevil

Well-Known Member
trapdevil said:
3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting

www.homedepot.com

BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting CT2-666X P - The Home Depot

This BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Brass Compression X Compression T-fitting provides a dual outlet for a water supply valve allowing 2 supply lines to be connected.
www.homedepot.com

One of these connected to where i disconnected the brained line. Then what sort of valve before my hose?

And why do you say if the copper lines wiggle to do it at the top? I see where to do that and seems like be about equal difficulty.
Click to expand...

So just want to double check before purfhase everything for my waterline from sink—>Hose.

Should it be disconnecting the hose fromt the ball valve to the sink. Inserting a Tee. Then connecting the Hose to sink to that and then a Ball Valve to my hose?

Only question regarding that was for the 3/8 in Brass Ball Valve they all have different Valve inlet diameter and i’m unsure which size I should be getting
 
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