Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
What size tub is that?
Anybody growing mushrooms willing to talk???
- Thread starter 7L!fTeD24
- Start date
manfredo
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah you may be talking to God after about 2-3 grams of those babies....They are on my list to grow.
Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
I took a couple grams last night. When I closed my eyes, I saw heaven
Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
How do yall layer your tub? I think I missed something
Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
That's what I did, but I've been seeing people say make your mix 4 inches deep
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Personally I would rather have more surface area then extra depth. I don’t usually try to push for more then 2 flushes since I’m on a perpetual cycle so having more surface area seems like it gets me more yield.
Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
What size tub do you use?
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Honestly I can’t remember what size the old tubs I used were, maybe 30-40L, they were roughly 13x21” on the bottom. All those tubs were bought like 3 years ago. Im doing a “Martha tent” style grow now with tubs that are open on top and are 15x24” on the bottom. I usually have about 3 inches of material in them.
canndo
Well-Known Member
Rule of thumb regarding substrate depth: the deeper your substrate the more populated the surface will be. The deeper the substrate the fewer aborts there will be. The more nutritious that substrate the more flushes you will see given the same level of moisture.
Growing mycelium produces heat. Substrates will insulate that heat such that a straw substrate will begin to die and then rot near the center of a Block of substrate much more than about 7 inches deep. There are ways to cool the interior such that straw can be as much as 12 inches but this is rarely worth the trouble.
A pure seed substrate will become exhausted of moisture before it becomes exhausted of nutrients. to sustain further flushes so 4 inches is about the productive extent of depth. I think coir has roughly the same nutrient value as straw but it likely has a higher insulating value.
Initial yield is a function of flatness of substrate. The flatter and more uniform the top of your substrate the greater your first flush. This is one reason for casing.
Growing mycelium produces heat. Substrates will insulate that heat such that a straw substrate will begin to die and then rot near the center of a Block of substrate much more than about 7 inches deep. There are ways to cool the interior such that straw can be as much as 12 inches but this is rarely worth the trouble.
A pure seed substrate will become exhausted of moisture before it becomes exhausted of nutrients. to sustain further flushes so 4 inches is about the productive extent of depth. I think coir has roughly the same nutrient value as straw but it likely has a higher insulating value.
Initial yield is a function of flatness of substrate. The flatter and more uniform the top of your substrate the greater your first flush. This is one reason for casing.
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Lol I’m glad canndo mentioned the heat thing. I encountered that when I first switched to the Martha tent system. I made my tubs about 5 inches thick and then stacked them up to colonize and the centers over heated. Some took forever to colonize some just died out and contamed. It was a shit show that week.
fruitbowl
Active Member
i've harvested some great 105QT monotub runs. i also poke zero holes in the tub and no Liner (unmodified). i will start by shooting 1CC of spore syringe juice into each wide-mouth-quart-jar of ryeberries or oats right after i have PC'd the 10 jars in my Presto23QT-pressure-cooker for 2hours at 15psi.
all ten jars will be 100% white/colonized in 30-60 days and then break them up over top of the 4" of substrate (1300g. of Coco coir) in the monotub
i've had success in my dirty house inoculating the jars in a 105QT SAB (StillAirBoX) but i do wanna upgrade to a flowhood and Learn Agar
all ten jars will be 100% white/colonized in 30-60 days and then break them up over top of the 4" of substrate (1300g. of Coco coir) in the monotub
i've had success in my dirty house inoculating the jars in a 105QT SAB (StillAirBoX) but i do wanna upgrade to a flowhood and Learn Agar
canndo
Well-Known Member
30 to 60 days? Wow. Shouldn't take more than ten.
fruitbowl
Active Member
^ i think it's bcuz i did spore syringe to grain. not agar to grain. and yea 50 days was my normal some was 100% in 40days i remember it well. normal temps 75F. i had the foil over the Lids the whole time maybe that blocked some air exchange?
im happy i didn't need expensive grow lights to grow them!
im happy i didn't need expensive grow lights to grow them!
canndo
Well-Known Member
Spore to grain shouldn't make any difference. Temp is a little low but it still shouldn't take more than 10 to 12. If it was air, it would start out fast, slow down and then stall. It would never really collonize. You did shake your substrate
Right?
Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
So if I put 5lbs of spawn in the tub, how thick should the casing be?
Purpfarmer
Well-Known Member
I was thinking about going that size but I cant find one with a sealed lid. I'm in a 54qt and I'm only getting 2oz per flush .
fruitbowl
Active Member
^ i get mine on ebay "sterilite 105QT latch box". theyre also the perfect size to use for a SAB (StillAirBoX) :].
after i break up my 7-10 spawnjars and mix them together with the 4" inch of coco sub in the Tub i might sprinkle an extra 1" inch layer of coco coir on top of all that.. thats casing right?ha
after i break up my 7-10 spawnjars and mix them together with the 4" inch of coco sub in the Tub i might sprinkle an extra 1" inch layer of coco coir on top of all that.. thats casing right?ha