crazy thought, Try running all of them on 12/12 from seed. Select the best females. Remove them and re-veg them and take cutting. Waste your time experimenting with the small runty ones. And by experimenting, i mean stress training and topping experience.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2214345#post2214345
I studied all of these methods and practiced them on a few. I enjoy Supercropping, Both FIMing and Topping. I sometimes supercrop into an LST bend. You just have to be gentle and not over do things. Learning that is something that only comes with practice. 12/12 from seed is awesome with some topping. The crippling effect just somehow makes the plant stronger. Might push back the harvest time a couple weeks, but makes up for there not being a veg cycle.
Oh and to answer your question. No you don't want red from start to finish. If you think about in tropical places like Hawaii, daylight is 12/12 or less all year round. Just because the Lights are on a flower schedule, it doesn't mean the plant is on a flower schedule. Many plants take up to 23 days to begin flowering after the lights have switched. So just because your lights are 12/12 from seed doesn't mean you can treat your plant with nutrients the same way. You have to treat the first few weeks before sex is shown as veg weeks. Veg weeks with really short daylight hours. Plants aren't dumb slow organisms, but they will take a few weeks from a light switch to change into flowering sometimes. The nutrients can help induce the flowering, so by the third week or so you can probably introduce some bloom feeds to help stimulate the transition.
