Anyone else waiting for Samsung strips?

diyled said:
Yes its what im doing. At 1amp each the L09 h influx should be 2.5+ at system level.
Click to expand...


3500°k is 182lm/w at 1A, if we use a factor of 70 it would be ~2,6μMol, so maybe ~2,4 incl. loss. How much costs L09? 30 bucks? Maybe you can get better performance from 3 Q-strips at 700mA for less, especially if you buy more strips Q-series is a bit cheaper.
I hope you receive an answer from Samsung soon. I wonder if Q-series actually use a better flux binning or if it's because of the error in their calculator tool.
 
Randomblame said:
3500°k is 182lm/w at 1A, if we use a factor of 70 it would be ~2,6μMol, so maybe ~2,4 incl. loss. How much costs L09? 30 bucks? Maybe you can get better performance from 3 Q-strips at 700mA for less, especially if you buy more strips Q-series is a bit cheaper.
I hope you receive an answer from Samsung soon. I wonder if Q-series actually use a better flux binning or if it's because of the error in their calculator tool.
Click to expand...

Q series are good value but I pay a lot for the new heatsinks so the system cost outweighs the strip cost. I use the q series myself for veg.

I'll let you know what they say. I cant see why they would put a lower bin on them as they as sold as a high output strip.
 
Yea, I hope I'm wrong and it's because of the calulator. We'll see.... hopefully! I would not be surprised if you don't get an answer ..
 
Randomblame said:
Nope, not from datasheet.
Q-series is 450mA nom. and 900mA max., H-series was 480 nom. and 960mA max. I believe.
Download H-series datasheet from digikey, Q-series is added below.
Click to expand...

Yea, I checked those PDFs and saw this. I was asking in real world if someone was brave enough to try them little harder.

diyled said:
Yes its what im doing. At 1amp each the L09 h influx should be 2.5+ at system level.
Click to expand...

Can you link me to digikey please? I am not sure if your data is correct, from my words above about PDF.
 
Randomblame said:
With H-influx to get to the specified values from datasheet you need to use AZ/SJ bin. But I can not say that for sure, because Samsung has messed up the calculator numbers for LM301b 3000, 3500 and 4000°k(they use the same brightness for 3000 and 3500°k, sometimes the same like 4000K).
Click to expand...
Yeah I know, I was the one who pointed that out a while ago :)

Clearly there are many ways to compare leds, but when you are discussing price I really feel you should compare at same efficacy. Or if not then at least add the power use over a certain number of years.

When I designed my F-strip fixture I calculated the overall costs of the fixture (including strips and cooling/frame materials) plus 3 years of electricity per m2 (or rather per 800umol/s):
LT-F564B Prijs vs Current.png

So technically between 700mA and 875mA would be cheapest (at my kWh cost and type of build), but the difference to 500mA and also to 1250mA is negligible. So I went with something closer to 500mA (12 double row 56cm strips per m2)

The biggest part of the total cost for me is the electricity used. So the cost of the actual fixture doesn't matter that much. Also, using more strips (higher up front cost) means I pay less for the electricity or vice versa, less strips equals higher running costs. It all pretty much evens out, within reason.
 
KonopCh said:
Yea, I checked those PDFs and saw this. I was asking in real world if someone was brave enough to try them little harder.



Can you link me to digikey please? I am not sure if your data is correct, from my words above about PDF.
Click to expand...

I thought you were on about the hinflux not the h series.
 
Yea, fortunately the cost for the LED's you quickly get back. That's why it's always fun to build new ones.
So far, I have sold almost all the lights I've made and for my last there is already a contender. But the next ones I will optimize again for a 2x 3' or 2,5x 2,5' area and rather use two for it.
Such a big ass 1150x600mm light like my current one is not easy to transport. Have already thought of something like a bicycle cardbox to transport it ... with lots of polystyrene of course.
Maybe I have to disassemble the frame and then rebuild it. Let's see ..
At the moment I am fondling with Q-series for my next build, but I also hope that something new will come from Bridgelux or so. Until the end of the year I can wait with the purchase, there is may be something else in the pipeline ..?
 
KonopCh said:
Yea, I checked those PDFs and saw this. I was asking in real world if someone was brave enough to try them little harder.



Can you link me to digikey please? I am not sure if your data is correct, from my words above about PDF.
Click to expand...
You might be confusing H-series with the H-influx series.
 
Bottom-line, for me, is that if the H-inFLUX are even marginally more efficient than Gen3 F-Series, electricity costs will more than make-up for the difference in up-front cost.
 
Instant Pot said:
Bottom-line, for me, is that if the H-inFLUX are even marginally more efficient than Gen3 F-Series, electricity costs will more than make-up for the difference in up-front cost.
Click to expand...



Yea, sooner or later definitely!
However, it will be faster if you finance it through the additional yield.

If you come from a 400w HPS(3x 3') you can try to get the same yield from only 240w LED. Electricity cost will pay back upfront costs within one year or maybe two depending on kwh price.
But let's say you switch from 400w HPS to 400w LED light, you'll have the same electricity costs but yield would be almost twice as much and upfront costs pay back really fast. Depending what you've paid, maybe already within the first LED run.
Although the first is often the reason for switching to LED, the latter makes a lot more sense in my eyes, unless you have to reduce your power consumption for other reasons, eg. because of a discovery risk. In NL(by de oranjes) they have catched many growers because of their high energy consumption.
 
Randomblame said:
But let's say you switch from 400w HPS to 400w LED light, you'll have the same electricity costs but yield would be almost twice as much and upfront costs pay back really fast.
Click to expand...
But then you could also have gotten an extra 400W HPS.

You would need to double the grow area too because doubling the light intensity in the same tent is a recipe for disaster.

Whatever way you look at it, in the end it's only leds saving you money on the electricity bill really.

Although I have seen guys stuck with say 2400W max. In that specific situation of course you could increase total yields by switching to leds since you can get more light out of that 2400W. That's pretty uncommon though. Especially for hobby growers but also for (legal) professional growers.

You are contradicting yourself too. If you also include extra yield, then that 5% extra light will be worth a whole lot more. Making the new strips come out even more in favor over the F-series ;)
 
400w are usually used in 1m² tents, 400w LED : 10,7sft is 37,4w/sft. IMO no need to buy a bigger tent or other equipment. And an additional 400w HPS is even more wasted energy..
Also when you switch from 400w HPS to 400w LED you save electricity compared to HPS because you get more usable light. If you only have a 80x 80cm tent 400w LED would be probably too much, if you already have 1 or 1,44m² 400w LED would make more sense.
So, yea! In the end it's all energy savings. Which ever makes more sense depends on situation..
 
KonopCh said:
What means 1 channel, 2 channels, 3 channels?
1 strip, 2 strips, 3 strips or what?

Also, do you have 1120mm strips maybe? I have HLG-240-C1050A driver and I need better coverage than with 560mm strips. Or can I wire 10 of them to get the same coverage as with 1120mm F strips?
Click to expand...
yes a single colour can be called a channel. This is our 560mm 3 channel(3 colour) strip, 5k, 2k and 660nm. Yes you can wire 2 x 560 so becomes 1120. 1120 is too expensive to ship for us relative to selling price
skinstrip.jpg
 
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