• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Anyone ever switch for 10/14 back to 11/13 or 12/12?

II69II

II69II

Active Member
When flowering if I were to manually move a plant into another grow tent for darkness with the range of 10-11.5 hours of light, would it effect it in any way? Once you go down to a less light schedule are you stuck? I couldnt find much about this besides people arguing about whether 10/14 or 12/12 is better. The only reason I ask is that I wanna flower one plant in particular but dont wanna bother kicking out more heat for it. Winter cant come soon enough
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
I have an outside plant,I started putting into darkness June 21.every night at 7pm and take it out at 7am.Now over the last month Ive forgotten about it probably 10 times.So some nights its stayed outside,some days its spent in darkness.
To look at the plant youd never know,its flowering as normal.Every day it has had a different schedule.That reminds me put the plant in the shed lol.
 
II69II

II69II

Active Member
myke said:
I have an outside plant,I started putting into darkness June 21.every night at 7pm and take it out at 7am.Now over the last month Ive forgotten about it probably 10 times.So some nights its stayed outside,some days its spent in darkness.
To look at the plant youd never know,its flowering as normal.Every day it has had a different schedule.That reminds me put the plant in the shed lol.
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Hmm. Well I hoped as much. Thank you
 
S

shamokinpottsville

Active Member
Just be careful of male flowers. I had a timer go bad once and i didn’t replace it for a couple weeks and the intermittent light stress (I forget sometimes lol) caused a few plants to be hermaphroditic. I just picked off the male flowers as they popped up and didn’t end up with too many seeds but something to be wary of.
 
II69II

II69II

Active Member
shamokinpottsville said:
Just be careful of male flowers. I had a timer go bad once and i didn’t replace it for a couple weeks and the intermittent light stress (I forget sometimes lol) caused a few plants to be hermaphroditic. I just picked off the male flowers as they popped up and didn’t end up with too many seeds but something to be wary of.
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Will do gotta say tho, you had your account for 12 years and the first time you post is to give me some advice. Im honored, thank you!
 
G

GOF

Member
II69II said:
When flowering if I were to manually move a plant into another grow tent for darkness with the range of 10-11.5 hours of light, would it effect it in any way? Once you go down to a less light schedule are you stuck? I couldnt find much about this besides people arguing about whether 10/14 or 12/12 is better. The only reason I ask is that I wanna flower one plant in particular but dont wanna bother kicking out more heat for it. Winter cant come soon enough
Click to expand...
You will be cheating yourself out of final results, and giving yourself not a DARNED CLUE about what the plant's potential is. You want it to eat EVERYTHING as far as nutes during the final flush, or it'll be harsh, taste like ass, and even leave funky fucked up black ash when you try to burn it. Those plants need FULL LIGHT at FULL INTENSITY for as LONG as possible to really accomplish this.

As to 12/12 vs 10/14 - if you're watching people split hairs, why not just do what has been working quite well for people that know this plant through experience since the 1970's do and has proven is at least, "Good enough?" There's no need to try and have the perfect grow early on. This isn't supposed to be all stressful and "has to be done a perfect way - that is JUST NOW being "discovered." People have grown this stuff for hundreds if not THOUSANDS of years, and just by letting the sun do it's thing, and then "picking it." :)

LED lighting scientists have been working hard to develop UV and far red lights because, those spectrums of light (that also age the fuck outta people's skin) cause the plants to say, "OWW OWW OWW! WTF?! STOP WITH THE INTENSITY ALREADY - WILL YA?" (below 400 and above 700 nanometers) and that IS the shit that also burns your skin. Many "experts" have, for MANY years, generations even, said, "Below 400nm and above 600mn don't do shit - so that should NEVER be considered in measuring the PAR value of agricultural lighting, because it does NOTHING." Science isn't perfect, and neither are we - but we're still alive, so, maybe we need to just - you know - kinda chill a bit, eh? :)

So, yeah, that additional "OWWW OWWWW OWWW" (says the plant) will result in GOOO GOOOO GOOOO come the stalked trichs, just so long as you don't burn the actual green leaf/calex material and bleach it out. That stops the plant dead in it's tracks, becasue it knows to get bigger will cause more tissue damage, not just the "Oww oww oww" that can be handled with "More yummy suntan oil/skin conditioning sticky ooze production."

This causes them to desire sun tan oil - which they promptly sacrifice even their own FAN LEAVES to pump energy into cranking out more of that sticky shit.
 
G

GOF

Member
GOF said:
You will be cheating yourself out of final results, and giving yourself not a DARNED CLUE about what the plant's potential is. You want it to eat EVERYTHING as far as nutes during the final flush, or it'll be harsh, taste like ass, and even leave funky fucked up black ash when you try to burn it. Those plants need FULL LIGHT at FULL INTENSITY for as LONG as possible to really accomplish this.

As to 12/12 vs 10/14 - if you're watching people split hairs, why not just do what has been working quite well for people that know this plant through experience since the 1970's do and has proven is at least, "Good enough?" There's no need to try and have the perfect grow early on. This isn't supposed to be all stressful and "has to be done a perfect way - that is JUST NOW being "discovered." People have grown this stuff for hundreds if not THOUSANDS of years, and just by letting the sun do it's thing, and then "picking it." :)

LED lighting scientists have been working hard to develop UV and far red lights because, those spectrums of light (that also age the fuck outta people's skin) cause the plants to say, "OWW OWW OWW! WTF?! STOP WITH THE INTENSITY ALREADY - WILL YA?" (below 400 and above 700 nanometers) and that IS the shit that also burns your skin. Many "experts" have, for MANY years, generations even, said, "Below 400nm and above 600mn don't do shit - so that should NEVER be considered in measuring the PAR value of agricultural lighting, because it does NOTHING." Science isn't perfect, and neither are we - but we're still alive, so, maybe we need to just - you know - kinda chill a bit, eh? :)

So, yeah, that additional "OWWW OWWWW OWWW" (says the plant) will result in GOOO GOOOO GOOOO come the stalked trichs, just so long as you don't burn the actual green leaf/calex material and bleach it out. That stops the plant dead in it's tracks, becasue it knows to get bigger will cause more tissue damage, not just the "Oww oww oww" that can be handled with "More yummy suntan oil/skin conditioning sticky ooze production."

This causes them to desire sun tan oil - which they promptly sacrifice even their own FAN LEAVES to pump energy into cranking out more of that sticky shit.
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Last 2 days before harvest - 100% blackout total darkness. 48 hours, then - turn killer and chop her down.

Hang & dry at as low a temp as you can achieve (within reason. about 62 degrees is about as low as you really want to go - but you've GOT to have CLEANLINESS and AIR CIRCULATION - or you'll have trouble with mold or mildew, and you do NOT want that!!!!

RH in drying environment shoud be between 50 and 60% with the "safer" side of that being 50%. You'd rather have 35 or 40% and have to cure a bit longer to get a good flavor, than to go too high and throw everything away because "smoking mold or mildew is NO FUCKING BUENO!
 
G

GOF

Member
hehehe

Because I SAID SO! :P

Seriously, for some reason I don't understand, but that seems to get really good results. I'm pretty sure it's because the light allows the plant to keep building chlorophyll, which is the starchy part that allows the leaf to produce more SIMPLE sugar, which is cool, but by killing the light all-together after the plant is chopped, it consumes a lot of THAT (the chlorophyll) as a last ditch effort to - you know - NOT DIE - and it's that - (the chlorophyll) that makes weed taste like lawn clippings when you smoke it later on after it's dried and cured.

Yeah. Yup. I'm pretty sure that was why.

So . . . . then this one day I was walking along. Just walking and walking and walking. You know. WALKING, and I came to this raspberry bush that was - well it was looking at me and . . . .

oh, wait . . . you said WITHOUT typ

:lol:
 
bk78

bk78

Well-Known Member
GOF said:
hehehe

Because I SAID SO! :P

Seriously, for some reason I don't understand, but that seems to get really good results. I'm pretty sure it's because the light allows the plant to keep building chlorophyll, which is the starchy part that allows the leaf to produce more SIMPLE sugar, which is cool, but by killing the light all-together after the plant is chopped, it consumes a lot of THAT (the chlorophyll) as a last ditch effort to - you know - NOT DIE - and it's that - (the chlorophyll) that makes weed taste like lawn clippings when you smoke it later on after it's dried and cured.

Yeah. Yup. I'm pretty sure that was why.

So . . . . then this one day I was walking along. Just walking and walking and walking. You know. WALKING, and I came to this raspberry bush that was - well it was looking at me and . . . .

oh, wait . . . you said WITHOUT typ

:lol:
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Cool bro science, bro.
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
GOF said:
hehehe

Because I SAID SO! :P

Seriously, for some reason I don't understand, but that seems to get really good results. I'm pretty sure it's because the light allows the plant to keep building chlorophyll, which is the starchy part that allows the leaf to produce more SIMPLE sugar, which is cool, but by killing the light all-together after the plant is chopped, it consumes a lot of THAT (the chlorophyll) as a last ditch effort to - you know - NOT DIE - and it's that - (the chlorophyll) that makes weed taste like lawn clippings when you smoke it later on after it's dried and cured.

Yeah. Yup. I'm pretty sure that was why.

So . . . . then this one day I was walking along. Just walking and walking and walking. You know. WALKING, and I came to this raspberry bush that was - well it was looking at me and . . . .

oh, wait . . . you said WITHOUT typ

:lol:
Click to expand...
How do you know one way is better than the other? Have you sent your finished samples for testing and how did you set up your side by side experiment?

I always think the last weed I smoked is the best weed I've smoked :bigjoint:
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
II69II said:
When flowering if I were to manually move a plant into another grow tent for darkness with the range of 10-11.5 hours of light, would it effect it in any way? Once you go down to a less light schedule are you stuck? I couldnt find much about this besides people arguing about whether 10/14 or 12/12 is better. The only reason I ask is that I wanna flower one plant in particular but dont wanna bother kicking out more heat for it. Winter cant come soon enough
Click to expand...
So as not to fuck up your thread natural nights have varying degrees of darkness throughout. So anything 12 and under you're probably fine.
 
BudmanTX

BudmanTX

Well-Known Member
II69II said:
When flowering if I were to manually move a plant into another grow tent for darkness with the range of 10-11.5 hours of light, would it effect it in any way? Once you go down to a less light schedule are you stuck? I couldnt find much about this besides people arguing about whether 10/14 or 12/12 is better. The only reason I ask is that I wanna flower one plant in particular but dont wanna bother kicking out more heat for it. Winter cant come soon enough
Click to expand...
i don't perceve a problem honestly...i'm growing outside this time and right now natural light schedual is 13hrs of sun....by the end of August it will change to the 12hrs of sun
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
II69II said:
When flowering if I were to manually move a plant into another grow tent for darkness with the range of 10-11.5 hours of light, would it effect it in any way? Once you go down to a less light schedule are you stuck? I couldnt find much about this besides people arguing about whether 10/14 or 12/12 is better. The only reason I ask is that I wanna flower one plant in particular but dont wanna bother kicking out more heat for it. Winter cant come soon enough
Click to expand...
Light manipulation is done all the time to induce flowering or vegging or somewhere in between but this is the advanced class. There are more than just 2 possible light cycles even though that is the general consensus. I like to go to 15/9 to induce bushy-er plants for a week or so and then gradually reduce hours of daylight by a hour or so weekly until they begin to show sex. Then I put them back to 18/6 to “monster crop” them for a few weeks before finally putting them in the dedicated bloom room set to 12/12. If I want the buds to finish up and ripen late in bloom I’ll set the timer to 11.5/12/.5.
The sun does not run at exactly 18/6 or 12/12; the light cycle changes gradually by minutes a day which is why you typically don’t see lanky ass stretched out plants outdoors. You can use light manipulation indoors to reduce stretching or even eliminate it altogether. Makes for bushier plants which more nodal areas where buds grow. So if you have lighting intense enough to get through a thick canopy and the space to grow maximum yielding plants try playing around with light cycle by gradually reducing the hours of “daylight.” It’s a great way to sex out plants grown from seed once they are mature enough to do so; week 7 is a good place to begin.
 
II69II

II69II

Active Member
Richard Drysift said:
Light manipulation is done all the time to induce flowering or vegging or somewhere in between but this is the advanced class. There are more than just 2 possible light cycles even though that is the general consensus. I like to go to 15/9 to induce bushy-er plants for a week or so and then gradually reduce hours of daylight by a hour or so weekly until they begin to show sex. Then I put them back to 18/6 to “monster crop” them for a few weeks before finally putting them in the dedicated bloom room set to 12/12. If I want the buds to finish up and ripen late in bloom I’ll set the timer to 11.5/12/.5.
The sun does not run at exactly 18/6 or 12/12; the light cycle changes gradually by minutes a day which is why you typically don’t see lanky ass stretched out plants outdoors. You can use light manipulation indoors to reduce stretching or even eliminate it altogether. Makes for bushier plants which more nodal areas where buds grow. So if you have lighting intense enough to get through a thick canopy and the space to grow maximum yielding plants try playing around with light cycle by gradually reducing the hours of “daylight.” It’s a great way to sex out plants grown from seed once they are mature enough to do so; week 7 is a good place to begin.
Click to expand...
Damn thats a rabbit hole and a half. Ive read people talking about trying to mimic natures light cycle, but dreaded the idea of mapping it out. Thank you, Ill pull from this once I get to that point in my growing hobby.
 
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