Great thread, subbed and +1.
I was wondering if you were making a note of the total electricity used by each side during the grow? Don't know if that's possible or even very relevant if it's just a straight grams per watt HID vs LED but it would be interesting to know the difference in running costs.
Yes sir I am noting the wattage differences...but the cooling is the harder part to differentiate for this numbers purposes.
The AT600 pulls 685w and the hps pulls 1028w.
I am currently cooling it all at once sort of...the carbon filter is in the room but the venting is hooked up to the filter, then the hps, then fan pulling out of the room. So it pulls air out of the whole room(led side too) but its working mostly in the 1000w constantly running lights on at 110w.
But when I ran the led solo...I vented the room only 15min per hour at 98w...and it was still under 80* when the exhaust kicked on, more for air exchange. So the cooling is definitely a big difference. If I was running CO2 I wouldn't need an AC.
Hey Greengenes707,
Awesome video and I like what you have done. I would like to know what light meter you used to determine umols. Are you using a PAR meter and converting? Had some trouble looking for a umol meter.
Thanks!
PS I agree with you tailoring each gardens nutrient needs specific to the light used btw.
+ rep
I use an apogee MQ-200. They
Hey greengenes, still planning on getting the at600 but came across the opportunity to get a California light works solar storm 880 for a pretty good discounted price. The catch is I'd have to do a journal for them (which I have no experience in doing) and afterwards I could either keep it or give it back for a full refund. I know you probably did a hell of a lot more research than I have done on LEDs so I thought I'd ask if you knew anything about these lights. I thought it would be fun to do a side by side with the at600 but really don't want to waste my time if there's something you know that I haven't been able to find. I haven't been able to find much in the way of good or bad.
Oh yeah, I also wanted to ask you which lens layout yours has. Is it all 14* or does it have the 50* in the center? I also found a spectral test that was done by growers house that shows the red and blue spectrum peak outside of the optimal range of both chlorophyll a and b. there's no question these lights work phenomenally but wouldn't they have been much better if the peaks were in optimal range? What were they thinking when they did that? Is that a question you've asked them?
I answered in the other thread about CLW, but when comparing to the at600 it's not in the same class. They run their un-named chips hard and inefficiently, which is why people experience it runs hot. The output and footprint of the AT is unmatched. Growers house tested the last ss800 and it's not close AT. If you are spending money then I wouldn't put it in a different company than AT.
As for the growers house test, they also have the light off center and didn't hang it high enough while using the all 14*'s. They have chosen those peaks...they are close but there is still some debate on where exactly they are. And it varies species to species. Look at this link and it shows it can be a broader range.
http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/46/1/1.full.pdf
If you also look at other led growers house have tested that are also saying they hit that same peak(630nm)...they are off as well, because I think GH choose 642nm. I asked AT for the R2 spectrum form their spectroradiometer, I will put it up when I get it.
In my last run I use a combo of 4 50's center and the rest 50's...this time is all 50's and they are at 19" from the light.
Buds are setting in hard. I will get a new update tomorrow, just a quick peak for now...
Day 17
maybe they're not such a good idea after all. I also just found a par testing of their previous version ( the 800) that is not as good as that at600 even with the increase they're boasting. I'll probably pass on the offer. Hell, I wish I could get an offer like that from apach tech.
