Try the neem and then maybe some soapy water, since you only have a few plants, make sure you wipe the underside of all the leaves. I have battled aphids for years on my roses-they are pain. Here is some addtional info I dug up... lady bug larva would also be ideal, they will devstate the aphid population...
Aphids are one of the most common pests that can do a considerable amount of damage to all types of indoor and outdoor plants. The book entitled "Burpee: Complete
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]Gardener[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR]", published in 1995 by Macmillan, Inc., describes in the following, the characteristics of the aphid. It says aphids are pear-shaped, soft, and they can be varying
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]shades[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] of white, black, red, gray, brown, yellow, or green. Some aphids develop wings and some do not. These tiny pests often feed on the sap of foliage similar to their body color.
Aphids leave behind a sticky, thick substance known as honeydew. This sticky substance can pose a problem when it becomes black and moldy. It covers foliage to the extent of blocking out necessary light which prevents photosynthesis. This excretion can also create a sticky situation when it drops onto automobiles, windows,
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]lawn [/FONT][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]furniture[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR], and other outdoor items. Ants are attracted to this substance which adds to the problem.
When checking plants for aphid infestation, check plants having tender new growth. Also, aphids adhere to the undersides of foliage and on new flower buds. These are favorite areas for aphids to dine. Besides the damage aphids cause by extracting a plant's juices, some varieties can spread devastating diseases that are harmful to plants. According to the May 1999 issue of the "Plants & Pests" newsletter, published by Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service of Lake County Indiana, in the article entitled "Aphids Appear in the Spring", which was written by Tom Turpin, Purdue Entomologist, a plant infested with aphids may have leaves that are curled up and unhealthy looking. In addition, plant growth may be stunted.
The website article entitled "Aphid", published by the Virginia Cooperative Extension, provides the following information on the life cycle of the aphid. It says aphids are capable of reproducing without mating, so their numbers can be vast. Fertilized aphid eggs remain attached to plant foliage over the winter months. In the spring, wingless female nymphs hatch and bear live young which also reproduce. During the cool months of autumn, male and female aphids are born, and the males fertilize the eggs that will remain dormant over the winter until the process begins all over again.
There are a number of ways to control aphids. The website article entitled "Aphids", written by Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist, and published by the University of Kentucky, recommends the following ways of controlling aphids. It says plants should be examined on a weekly basis. If aphids are found on only a few small plants, they can be crushed, or infested foliage can be removed. If this method does not work because the infestation is too great,
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]applications[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] of insecticide. insecticidal soap, or summer oils should be considered.
It is important to carefully read label directions to be sure a particular product is safe for the infested foliage. Most insecticidal products must directly contact the aphids in order to kill them. Large
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]trees[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] that are infested may not be able to sufficiently receive treatments because they are too tall for hose-end sprayers. Commercial sprayers work well, but may be impractical due to cost.
A few insecticides that affect the nervous
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]system[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] of the aphid contain chlorpyrifos, malathion, or acephate. Insecticides containing carbaryl are not recommended because they kill favorable insects that prey on aphids. Also, be certain the product you choose is labelled as effective in killing aphids.
Insecticidal
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]soaps[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] and fatty acid salts are quite effective in killing aphids. They kill the aphids by affecting the insect's cell membranes. The only downfall of these products is that they must come in contact with the aphids in order to kill them. In addition, more than one application is often required.
Summer oils work well on a variety of trees and ornamental foliage. These products do however need to come in contact with the aphids in order to be effective. Another drawback is that during hot summer months, foliage may become burned. Summer oils are not recommended for all plants, so be sure to check product labels for recommendations.
Natural remedies are always the best for controlling aphids or any other problem insect. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends controlling aphids with natural predators such as parasitic wasps, green lacewings, ladybugs, and praying mantids. The same book recommends the use of yellow tacky boards to safely trap and
[COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]kill [/FONT][COLOR=blue! important][FONT=verdana,sans-serif]aphids[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR].
