Aussie Growers Thread

jzs147

Well-Known Member
I got trays under mine used to have nothing coz i got cheap stick on vinyl but got worried about mold so go trays but I set my feeds up so there is the most minor amount of run off, you don't really need run off if you got your feeds down but a little bit is good to be sure.

Sometimes the trays get full but when the plants are that big they drink through that before it comes a problem n just clean trays inbetween rounds if worried about salt buildup
Cool thanks if your doing with those beasts im sure ill be right.
Do you ever give em a feed of straight water.
 

f.r

Well-Known Member
The point of cal-mag levels is a good one, that article is making. Without a soil test to see actual levels though is it that necessary first?
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
The point of cal-mag levels is a good one, that article is making. Without a soil test to see actual levels though is it that necessary first?
I've haven't done a soil test yet. But I've been using the same soil for over 2 years now. I've got a basement full of all kinds of dry amendments I've been testing out. I'm still learning about all the nutrients and deficiency signs though. I'm doing the no-till thing since I'm trying to be as lazy as possible.
 

f.r

Well-Known Member
Yeh it seems with this canna specific no till method online most people are just taking the shotgun approach with fertillisers anyway.

Shame soil testing isn't as cheap and readily available here in Australia
 

Saffasteve

Well-Known Member
I'm not seeing any reference to either crushed oyster shells or oyster shell flour being "milder" (whatever that means?) than Ag lime.
 

Saffasteve

Well-Known Member
Yeh it seems with this canna specific no till method online most people are just taking the shotgun approach with fertillisers anyway.

Shame soil testing isn't as cheap and readily available here in Australia
Plenty of good places to get your soil tested over here, you're going to be looking at around the $100-$130 range. Bigger issue is how you interpret the results.
 

f.r

Well-Known Member
Good to know I'm gonna have another look at some places, been a while and I would love to get my veggie garden tested at certain areas.
 

Bullygrowz

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks if your doing with those beasts im sure ill be right.
Do you ever give em a feed of straight water.
Nah never straight water but I'm really trying to dial in my feeds atm not 100% there yet but what I'm doin is if I have a week where I've fed pretty strong ill follow that week with a week of a milder feed
 

jzs147

Well-Known Member
Nah never straight water but I'm really trying to dial in my feeds atm not 100% there yet but what I'm doin is if I have a week where I've fed pretty strong ill follow that week with a week of a milder feed
Ah ok. I might just try like 1.0 to 1.2 ec the whole grow.
Got an extra tent but cant be fked going to much trouble haha
I got a fee geo bags laying round bout 19 litre ones
 
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Bullygrowz

Well-Known Member
Ah ok. I might just try like 1.0 to 1.2 ec the whole grow.
Got an extra tent but cant be fked going to much trouble haha
I got a fee geo bags laying round bout 19 litre ones
Sounds like a good plan, im feeding at 1.5 to 2.0 ec but bigger plants can take more so sounds like you'd go good with 1.0 to 1.2 im sure you'll suss out what works for you
 

Saffasteve

Well-Known Member
Use whatever you want. That's just what I use.
I don't use either mate, I was just trying to find out from you why you'd recommend using something that costs $26kg over another that costs under $1kg when they are both essentially the same thing.

If you're a real "organic guy" you'd not be too concerned about the P.H of your no-till mix as your microbial biomass should be in good equilibrium and balance the soil P.H for you.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I don't use either mate, I was just trying to find out from you why you'd recommend using something that costs $26kg over another that costs under $1kg when they are both essentially the same thing.

If you're a real "organic guy" you'd not be too concerned about the P.H of your no-till mix as your microbial biomass should be in good equilibrium and balance the soil P.H for you.
I thought all you Aussie's were cool. I love you guys.

Anyways, I'm not that concerned about pH and I actually don't use the oyster shell flour much at all anymore since my water already has plenty of calcium carbonate in it. When I add extra Ca, it causes lockout issues. And oyster shell flour is cheap here in the US.

And I say it's milder because it breaks down slower and is hard to overdo up to a point.

I also have nothing against chems, and I actually have a set of the GH stuff to try in some coco and do a side by side against my organic no-till. And I think the GH chems are actually gonna win overall. I'm curious if I'll notice any taste difference.
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Saffasteve

Well-Known Member
And I say it's milder because it breaks down slower and is hard to overdo up to a point
That answers my question thanks.

I'd be re-thinking what's causing you deficiency issues, Ca and Mg should make up about 80% of your base saturation in soil at a 6/1Ca/lMg ratio in soil so it's nearly impossible to over do Ca.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
That answers my question thanks.

I'd be re-thinking what's causing you deficiency issues, Ca and Mg should make up about 80% of your base saturation in soil at a 6/1Ca/lMg ratio in soil so it's nearly impossible to over do Ca.
Wow man. Yes you can have too much Ca. Too much Ca will lockout other nutes. I don't want to bug him with this so I won't call him, but Kratos will take you to school, lol.
IMG_4128.JPG
 

Saffasteve

Well-Known Member
Wow man. Yes you can have too much Ca. Too much Ca will lockout other nutes. I don't want to bug him with this so I won't call him, but Kratos will take you to school, lol.
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@reza92 imagine if Slownickel read this lol

Posting Molders chart as your proof that Ca causes lockout shows how little you understand about balancing minerals in soil. What the chart shows is the effect each cation or anion has on the uptake of another, to end up with deficiency you must be low in that particular element in the first place. You're also not taking into account the fact that Ca and B together are responsible for driving nutrients to where they are needed inside the plants structure.

Either way I must thank you for the good old laugh I got from your post, best one I've had all week
Cheers
 
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