Awesome heatsinking deal, will it work?

Dr.StickyFingers

Well-Known Member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-100W-LED-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Cooling-Fan-44mm-Lens-Reflector-Bracket-kit-/171631500148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f608db74

I've been looking for these types of heatsinks except much much bigger for a good price for a while to mount up some Vero 29s to.

All the LED projects I've been messing around with have been on a small scale but I want to run some vero 29s and make myself a pretty strong LED light

(I have little experience with LED but enough... the problem is I am completely lost on how much heat dissipation is enough so I just thought to go big...)

I want 4 vero 29s ran at 2100ma for a total of ~320W. My question is when fitted to each COB are these heatsink fan combos going to be enough to keep them running relatively cool? They are alot smaller than the piped heatsinks I was originally thinking about buying...
 

Dr.StickyFingers

Well-Known Member
I'd get one of these instead. Half the price and easier to work with, will probably cool better than the one you linked.

http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Alpine-64-Plus-Cooler/dp/B007BVCBOE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432848430&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic alpine 64 plus
I see everyone using arctic alpines but do you think it would be more effective than copper piped heatsinks like this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-EVO-CPU-Cooler-with-120-mm-PWM-Fan-/301380789197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item462bb1e3cd
 

doz

Well-Known Member
You also get a lens with it bicit. It is still quite expensive for what you get. I do not believe that the Arctic 64 will cool better but the extra cooling wont be needed over the A64.

That said, its overpriced and someone is buying cheap lenses and attaching them with a homemade bracket which can easily be done for a much cheaper cost.
 

Dr.StickyFingers

Well-Known Member
You also get a lens with it bicit. It is still quite expensive for what you get. I do not believe that the Arctic 64 will cool better but the extra cooling wont be needed over the A64.

That said, its overpriced and someone is buying cheap lenses and attaching them with a homemade bracket which can easily be done for a much cheaper cost.
I was never even going to use the lens...
I was also thinking about water cooling as well but I guess im just over thinking the whole cooling thing... Ill go with the alpines..
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
I see everyone using arctic alpines but do you think it would be more effective than copper piped heatsinks like this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-EVO-CPU-Cooler-with-120-mm-PWM-Fan-/301380789197?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item462bb1e3cd
The copper pipe actually performs worse than solid aluminum according to the testing done by supraSPL.

Don't overcomplicate it. The alpine 64 is rated for 100w tdp. It also has a nice flat surface that makes it simple to drill and tap or to tape the emitters on.

The pre applied thermal paste is also very good.
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep, the first heat pipe style that I tested (Arctic Freezer 7) performed worse than the Alpine11. They are designed for high cooling capacity but require higher fan speeds to cool the fins efficiently so we ended up with a higher thermal gradient and higher junction temp. In order to get a lower gradient we need a substantial base for the COB and/or more efficient use of fan power for a relatively low heat load. So I tested a much beefier heatpipe style (OCZ Vanquisher) and it performed on par with the Arctic11. The unit that doz linked allows us to mount directly onto the heat pipes which should improve performance but I have not tested it yet.


All that said, the best performer so far has been this blow through style with heavy copper core Rosewill RCX-Z300. Quiet 92mm fan, very efficiently used. Unfortunately the mounting surface is only good for 3070 size COBs and no way to use ideal cob holders. But it does demonstrate the most ideal cooling design I have come across so far.
DSC07878a.jpg DSC08119a.jpgDSC08296a.jpg
 
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DoctorDelta9

Well-Known Member
I am weary of the alpine coolers, only because if your fan dies you cob is at risk. Has anyone checked temps with no fans on these?
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
I am weary of the alpine coolers, only because if your fan dies you cob is at risk. Has anyone checked temps with no fans on these?
They get hot, but I accidentally ran a pair of vero18's for a few days without fans. Driven at 1.4 amps on an 11 gt. Forgot to plug the power supply back in. They got very hot, but are still functioning to this day.
 

coolbreez1

Well-Known Member
The Vero's can stand a bit of heating up before they get fried, I had some issues and ran some Vero 29s for 2-3 hours without the fans running and they did not die. I would not suggest this, but lets just say you are going to be able to smell the light heating up before the LEDs get fried.

That being said, if cost is not a major consideration, always better to over build something then to under build it. If I could build a light with passive cooling for the same cost as active cooling I would be inclined to do it. But I have yet to see anything that is as cost effective as the simple computer heat sinks.
 

Dr.StickyFingers

Well-Known Member
Yep, the first heat pipe style that I tested (Arctic Freezer 7) performed worse than the Alpine11. They are designed for high cooling capacity but require higher fan speeds to cool the fins efficiently so we ended up with a higher thermal gradient and higher junction temp. In order to get a lower gradient we need a substantial base for the COB and/or more efficient use of fan power for a relatively low heat load. So I tested a much beefier heatpipe style (OCZ Vanquisher) and it performed on par with the Arctic11. The unit that doz linked allows us to mount directly onto the heat pipes which should improve performance but I have not tested it yet.


All that said, the best performer so far has been this blow through style with heavy copper core Rosewill RCX-Z300. Quiet 92mm fan, very efficiently used. Unfortunately the mounting surface is only good for 3070 size COBs and no way to use ideal cob holders. But it does demonstrate the most ideal cooling design I have come across so far.
View attachment 3429396 View attachment 3429399View attachment 3429402
wow... those blow through style heatsinks/fan combos are one of the first things I looked at before thinking it wasnt gonna cut it.... I guess simple is better..
I found lots of copper core blow through style heatsink/fan combos for less than 8 bucks a pop...
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Where they the Intel ones are did you find other types? There is something strange with the fans on the Intel versions they dont seem to take standard 12V power but perform very well at 5V. One downside of the Intel version, the fan is more exposed on the sides.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hey StickyFingers!
If you like to have a powerful cooler with heatpipes and a thick copper base, look for this cpu coolers on ebay. You can get it for less than 10bucks and they are rated by 125wAMD-Intel Cooler.png
Boxed cooler of current AMD - CPU `
- Socket 754/939 / 940 / AM2 / AM2 + / AM3 / FM1
- For CPUs with a power dissipation of up to 125W (TDP)

or if you like it smaller and also cheaper get this Intel stock cooler for socket 1155 rated with 95w for 4$!
 

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dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
Many threads here with glue. No pics from my state. Sorry. I think I may have a few scattered on the site. Supra on here has several threads. Look in the led lighting sections. The epoxy is sold at Newegg as well. I clamped mine. He taped his. I've seen others glue them. Google it. The only problem I am having with the diy led is growth. To fast! Actually I've seen an increase in growth with the diy. Check out some of the builds here. Sharp guys. I've been lurking a couple years here.
 
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