AZ gardeners, advice please

imlovnit24/7

Active Member
Having just purchased an order of Lady Bugs online I was offered an awesome discount on vege seeds. So I chose carrots, butter crunch lettuce and a childhood favorite, lima beans. I have been growing lemon boy, celebrity and yellow pear tomatoes as well as jalapeno and habanero peppers. All in 5 gal buckets with organic Whitney Farm's soil and feeding with General Organics "GO Box". And pest control with Neem Oil, Powdered Sulfur, Safer Brand Insecticide with D-Lemonene(citrus oil derivative) and now my Lady Bugs.

I've prepared a 5x5 area with organic compost, soil sulfur and some pumice. It will receive direct sunlight from dusk till about 1-2 PM in spring and summer thanks to my 6' wood fence. I'm looking for help with these otherwise colder climate vege's in my hot ass state. Any experience or solid advice would be awesome as I look to expand my green thumb beyond Mary-Jane and my successful 5 gal bucket vege's
 

Azoned

Well-Known Member
I live in the hills SW of Tucson, 3700ft in a cold air drainage. Average lows in the winter are about freezing or just below.
cilantro will grow all winter. Mine stood through many sub-freezing nights and a day that didn't get over 30`F. It attract ladybugs by the ton when it goes into bloom, too. Snap peas [peas in general] if the temps stay slightly above freezing. Most of the cabbage related...brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, kale.

regards,
Azoned
 

Redbird1223

Active Member
The way I do it is...I plant all the "sensitive" plants in the spring and fall. Like lettuce,herbs, flowers. Peas in the fall. And the tougher plants like tomatoes and peppers in the spring because they will brave heat if they have decent roots. Your temps are a little different than ours in the valley, it may be easier in the summer and worse in the winter as far as weather. You can grow anything if you baby it, the sun is the enemy, not the heat and some shade cloth can save a garden mid-summer. Anything that is going to stay in a bucket or plastic container needs to have the bucket wrapped for shade. (shade cloth, t shirt, double bucket) Keeping the sun off the container will keep the root zone much cooler and stress the plants less, it's not needed until summer but really helps
 

Troutacus

Well-Known Member
The Carrots will do fine. You have to work on your watering system. When summer comes around your going to wanna water them much more often. They should be sprayed every hour for 10 to 15 mins. Shade cloth will help you'll be able to spot the plants that aren't able to take the direct heat of the sun those are the ones you'll want to shade. as long as your roots don't get dry or over heat you'll be in great shape.
 

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
mb try some shade to cool things down? shade cloth? and lots of mulch to keep the ground cool.
loved phoenix desert botanical garden:)
 

Azoned

Well-Known Member
shade cloth or lattice in the summer for sure. You should be able to grow almost anything during the fall/winter. If it doesn't frost, ever...your planting time is dictated by when the soil temps allow for germination. You can manipulate that to a certain extent.
 

imlovnit24/7

Active Member
This past november i was through Hatch NM and got a big handful of Sandia chilli pepper seeds. Up until I got my 2 pepper plants from a nursery here that were already a foot tall I've never managed to get peppers from seed to stay alive, especially in ground only in pots. As I figure I already live in a climate peppers are a custom to I've never figured out why they don't survive once I've put them in the ground. Now that I've amended the plot of soil should that do the trick?
 

Azoned

Well-Known Member
dependong on your elevation, most peppers don't have time to mature when you direct seed. I live at ~4000ft and it gets too cold too soon for a harvest. Bell peppers will over winter, if they don't get frozen....hint, hint. Haven't tried green chiles or jalapenos. I do grow chlie piquins and have several plants [in pots] that are 4-6 yrs old.
 

PIPBoy2000

Active Member
I can't imagine Arizona. The heat like here in Florida but dry as all hell and just as hot. That said - Shade cloth!!! Oh, btw, if I lived in Arizona, I'd have date palms.

Anyone notice the update changes? The rep bars seem a lil' different.
 

Azoned

Well-Known Member
Now that you mention it...the +rep is the little star beside" journal this post".

believe it or not, most of AZ is TOO COLD for date palms to produce good fruit....it need really hot....like the Lower Colorado River Basin, out around Indio CA...
here's a blurb I pulled...

In 1980, production in Saudi Arabia was brought to nearly a half-million tons from 11 million palms because of government subsidies, improved technology, and a royal decree that dates be included in meals in govern ment and civic institutions and that hygienically-packed dates be regularly available in the markets. Farmers receive financial rewards for each offshoot of a high-quality date planted at a prescribed spacing. The Ministry of Agriculture has established training courses throughout the country to teach modern agricultural methods, including mechanization of all possible operations in date culture, and recognition and special roles of the many local cultivars. In West Africa, near the Sahara, only dry, sugary types can be grown.
Bonavia introduced seeds of 26 kinds of dates from the Near East into northern India and Pakistan in 1869; and, in 1909, D. Milne, the Economic Botanist for the Punjab, introduced offshoots and established the date as a cultivated crop in Pakistan. The fruits ripen well in northwestern India and at the Fruit Research Center in Saharanpur. In southern India, the climate is unfavorable for date production. A few trees around Bohol in the Philippines are said to bear an abundance of fruits of good quality. The date palm has been introduced into Australia, and into northeastern Argentina and Brazil where it may prosper in dry zones. Some dates are supplying fruits for the market on the small island of Margarita off the coast from northern Venezuela. Seed-propagated dates are found in many tropical and sub-tropical regions where they are valued as ornamentals but where the climate is unsuitable for fruit production.In November 1899, 75 plants were sent from Algiers to Jamaica. They were kept in a nursery until February 1901 and then 69 were planted at Hope Gardens. The female palms ultimately bore large bunches of fruits but they were ready to mature in October during the rainy season and, accordingly, the fruits rotted and fell. Only occasionally have date palms borne normal fruits in the Bahamas and South Florida.Spanish explorers introduced the date into Mexico, around Sonora and Sinaloa, and Baja California. The palms were only seedlings. Still, the fruits had great appeal and were being exported from Baja California in 1837. The first date palms in California were seedlings planted by Franciscan and Jesuit missionaries in 1769. Potted offshoots from Egypt reached California in 1890 and numerous other introductions have been made into that state and into the drier parts of southern Arizona around Tempe and Phoenix. In 1912, Paul and Wilson Popenoe purchased a total of 16,000 offshoots of selected cultivars in Algeria, eastern Arabia and Iraq and transported them to California for distribution by their father, F.O. Popenoe who was a leader in encouraging date culture in California. It became a profitable crop, especially in the Coachella Valley. There are now about a quarter of a million bearing trees in California and Arizona.


Not many places will these grow and produce, that you would want to live, .
regards,
Azoned
 

PIPBoy2000

Active Member
*likes furiously*

We get dates here in Florida, but they're quite tart and not sweet at all - plus they have to be the particular eating date variety.
 
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