Battery Powered 730nm Initiators and Micro Cabs

Chronikool said:
Sorry i made a boo boo...i meant to say....: Can i run a mix of 660 and 730 15 mins after main lights off?

i plan to run the 660/730 combo all the way through with the main lights: so total lights on for 660/730 combo will be 12 hours 30 mins...and total for 'main lights'....standard 12 hours.
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No. Just far red...no deep. 730 is the magic number found in research.
 
Abiqua said:
I am only asking is because I have two small cabs that I flower. I thought about trying an experiment in my Small Cab. I also have a shite load of rechargeable AA's and new ones are cheap too. Enough to be mobile and modular [imho].
Small cab: 3.5 cu ft and 1.5sq. ft.


  • 2-3 3w Hyper Red Epistar's from Steve's
  • mounted on aluminum [always circulating air inside]
  • Although I will have to work out a timer cut-off and I haven't been so ingenious as of yet......

So with money savings and small spaces, I thought this might work. Opinions? Is 6-7watts of Hyper red [730] in 1.5 square feet adequate?
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Don't waste your time on using batteries.
 
Keep in mind that phytochrome is a pigment with two interconvertible forms so the reason behind hitting them with 730nm wavelengths exclusively at lights out is to hasten this conversion from Pr-Pfr. By doing so you can push the lights on photoperiod to a 13 on 11 off. The other thing, which is not discussed much, is that the 660nm diodes at lights on hasten the return from Pfr-Pr.
 
chazbolin said:
Keep in mind that phytochrome is a pigment with two interconvertible forms so the reason behind hitting them with 730nm wavelengths exclusively at lights out is to hasten this conversion from Pr-Pfr. By doing so you can push the lights on photoperiod to a 13 on 11 off. The other thing, which is not discussed much, is that the 660nm diodes at lights on hasten the return from Pfr-Pr.
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Doesn't it go from Pfr back to Pr with far red at lights out? Good point about 'sunrise'
 
I talked to a very credible source today...shocked I got through to "them", and they claim to bloom on 15/9!!! Has to be an Indie dom but, omfg those would be some serious yield. I'd do a run a year! I also think it'd be cool to try some real Jamaican on 12/10 and finish a lot faster...YA MON!!!
 
I tried to flower a critical cbd with 9 hours dark (and the 730nm sunset blast) and it didn't go. I was about to adjust to 10 dark but I managed to kill the plant so I'm starting over with my testing :)
 
caretak3r said:
I tried to flower a critical cbd with 9 hours dark (and the 730nm sunset blast) and it didn't go. I was about to adjust to 10 dark but I managed to kill the plant so I'm starting over with my testing :)
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I would veg in at least 20+ and then drop right down to 15/9. If not then 13/11. I've accidentally bloomed a Dinafem Critical dropping from 20 to 18...no auto either.
 
Positivity said:
What happens if you just do 12/12?

Should smaller buds be expected?
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The problem with all these "exotic" light schedules is that some strains don't play nice with it...............12/12 just works

most hybrids will flower under 14/10.......few won't, more light hours doesn't always mean more bud development, 12/12 from seed has shown to work very well on hybrids

my schedule is slow descending from 24/0 to 12/12 over a few weeks(room temps permitting:))........my room ATM is freezing so I went 24/0 for 20 days and flipped

be safe grower
 
I can vouch for 12/12 working and yielding! Mine are coming along very nicely! Must be my awesome bulb Psu doesn't have.

Awesome lighting club: Red and HY...no Psu
 
JMD said:
Don't waste your time on using batteries.
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Why though? efficiency, ease of use, power capacity? For my space, it still isn't out of the question. Even though I haven't done shit to progress the thread, lol, glad other's have put it to use though!
 
chazbolin said:
I asked but they are not interested in selling the battery/boards separately. Down the road they may build a separate Pfr switch but the current boards are built for the diodes they're using with current limiting resistors for this specific application.
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Bummer, I was just searching for this answer.
 
I went from vegging 20/4 to flowering 14/10, down 30 min every few days to 12/12. lots of stretching. Next round, Im currently running veg at 24/0. Then they will go straight to 12/12. I think with the 730nm after lights out and the added hours during flower induces more stretch. Just a hypothesis for now. if your strains are at least 40% indica then do 12/12. If they are mostly sativa. Then 14/10 or 13/11 would be good. Next round is also different / new strains. The new ones all 9 weekers. Where my current strains are 65-70 days. I think they may finish sooner since they started flowering day 8 this time.
 
hyroot said:
I went from vegging 20/4 to flowering 14/10, down 30 min every few days to 12/12. lots of stretching. Next round, Im currently running veg at 24/0. Then they will go straight to 12/12. I think with the 730nm after lights out and the added hours during flower induces more stretch. Just a hypothesis for now. if your strains are at least 40% indica then do 12/12. If they are mostly sativa. Then 14/10 or 13/11 would be good. Next round is also different / new strains. The new ones all 9 weekers. Where my current strains are 65-70 days. I think they may finish sooner since they started flowering day 8 this time.
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Now it all depends on your setup, but I don't agree with this advice.

24/7 often results in lots of stretching and strained plants

20/4 is good for reverting flowering plants to veg, but will often result in stretching for normal vegetative growth.

18/6 is ideal for a wide selection of strains and setups.

12/12 for flowering.

Anything else is simply more risky, and has little evidence supporting efficacy.
 
Gaius said:
Now it all depends on your setup, but I don't agree with this advice.

24/7 often results in lots of stretching and strained plants

20/4 is good for reverting flowering plants to veg, but will often result in stretching for normal vegetative growth.

18/6 is ideal for a wide selection of strains and setups.

12/12 for flowering.

Anything else is simply more risky, and has little evidence supporting efficacy.
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well what's this thread about then... (rhetorical). Using 730nm only after lights out... Hmmmm.. I have the inda gro 420's with led pfr pontoons. So....... You got your veg cycles backwards. 18/6 will induce more stretch while 20/4 and 24/0 will have far less stretch. The more hours that the lights are on , the closer the nodes. Try it and you will learn that from experience. Where sativas originate from, they flower cycles are longer days year round. Where indicas originate its 12/12. Even in the U.S. When plants start flowering outdoors in late summer. The light cycle is 14/10............
 
captainmorgan said:
Forgot to mention I talked to Bill at growlightsource.com today and he said he was looking into a lower cost screw in flood design that would only be water resistant for more of a indoor application.
I'll post updates on any info I get from him in my "Flowering with Cree bulbs" thread
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Posted this in another thread if anyone is interested.
 
 
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