Batwing Reflector + Cool Tube for 40$

Tronica

Well-Known Member
This thing is working great.

My plants are loving the light, my temps are staying around 79 with no just a wimpy desk fan and no real exhaust system in the entirety of the cab.

I will be building 2 more of these in the future and coming up with a way to chain 3 of these in one exhaust.

If someone makes one, pls post some pics!
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
Hey bro,

I'm starting construction tonight. However I'm doing a modified version of yours. I have two hurricane glass' for two bulbs. I'm going to have 400w hps and a 250w mh to both run during flowering. I'm only going to use it for one run. After this grow I'm using the 250 mh for vegging a mother and clones, and make myself a proper diy batwing with the single 400w later.

There isn't room to string the two lamps together in a line, so I am putting them next to eachother, side by side. I think I'm going to make a ( W ), so like a batwing with a bump in the middle.

I'll post all the pics. I hope it works out as good as your single model.

Cost so far:
24x36 sheet metal - $8 (lowes),
two hurricane glass' $6 x 2 (michaels), high heat white spray paint $4.75 (home depot).

$25 bucks. Hardware yet to come.

Thanks again for the idea, and the hookup on the glass $5.99, you can't beat that.
 

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Tronica

Well-Known Member
Sounds awesome and I bet you can do it too. The only problem I see is with ventilation. You'll have to run 2 lines or a really powerful fan to overcome all those turns in a single line of duct. At least that's the first thing that comes to mind. Have you come up with an idea on how to deal with that?
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
Sounds awesome and I bet you can do it too. The only problem I see is with ventilation. You'll have to run 2 lines or a really powerful fan to overcome all those turns in a single line of duct. At least that's the first thing that comes to mind. Have you come up with an idea on how to deal with that?
I am going to try the 180 degree sharp turn on one end, Fan, then 400w, then 250, to outside. If that doesn't cool enough I'll run two intake/ exhaust hoses. It's good it's only for one run.

I have a 465 cfm fan, right now, with my wack enclosure it keep my 400 mh cool enough to put it 5 inches from the plant tops with no problems. Room temps are always below 80, without much room ventilation at all. Plus the fan is on a controller and I am only running it at about 60% power. Plus the ventilation I have now turns some serious corners already. And lastly, the 4 inch ducting gets jammed into a 3 inch duct for the last 4 feet, then has a completely restricting outlet fixture.

So I have thought about the temps, I feel like I'll be fine. But if not, I have lots of places to make things more efficient without spending more money.

It's funny, the two things I went all out on for my first grow were the nutrients and a big ass duct fan. Everything else is cheap and diy.
 

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Tronica

Well-Known Member
Looks awesome, very original with the 2 bulbs like that. I'm almost thinking I'd like to try something like that too. I'm currently running an hps and mh in the same room and rotating my plants every few days to get both spectrums in full. I had planned on using the Hortilux Super Blue bulbs (1000w dual arc bulbs, 600w hps, and 400w mh in one bulb.) But we'll see how it goes, it could be awhile before I'm able to afford 2 more 1000w ballasts and the bulbs (way spendy) to run them, where as I have a 600w hps and 400w mh already in my garden.

Regardless of my own rantings tho, that looks really clean and I'm envious of your simple tools like a clamp and a fucking pipe :lol:
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
I'm envious of your simple tools like a clamp and a fucking pipe :lol:
When you don't have the resources to buy new tools, and live far away from any garages you are friendly enough with to use their tools, you get creative. I've watched a lot of tv shows as well where people build stuff and get ideas. Usually the simplest things work the best. (i guess, don't really have much to compare too).

So the construction is done, I'm still waiting for my MH ballast, bulb, and socket to arrive in the mail. The plants are loving the enclosure. It is so much cooler than the last one.

This thing works. Not only are the temps down, but the light distribution is great.

When things are 100% complete I'll give you all the detailed break down.

Thanks again bro. Nice new avatar.
 

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jigfresh

Well-Known Member
This light set up stays so cool, that my room does not heat up anymore at all, just stays at a constant temp. (around 78 F)

That's great except for the money I wasted on my thermostat. It's nice to have such things to complain about.

Oh, and I have the 400w HPS about 5"-6" off the plant tops with no burning or bleaching.

Awesome.:bigjoint:

(250w mh in the mail now)
 

hehehemann

Well-Known Member
Tronica - Thanks for the information and your time in helping us out.
I have just bought the equipment needed.

I bough the Porcelain Fixture Socket #77077 Standard base 10" leads. Is this the right one?

I also wanted to ask about the fan(s) used.

Do you have yours yet? If so, what are your room temps like now? I have been struggling with temps in my closet grow and really am hoping this little piece of ingenuity will cure my problems.

I have a 6" inline duct fan from lowes. I think its rated at 250cfm. Do you think this will cool my 600w HPS?

What do you feel is the best positional situation to place the fan? Before the cool tube, after, one before, one after, etc, etc

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
 

stumps

Well-Known Member
This is the one I made. Still a bit hillbilly but it works great. Love the bat wing going to try that next time around.
new cfl 002.jpg
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
Tronica -
I'm going out on a limb and hoping Tronica won't hate me for answering you. I'm a total fake. I'm jacking his thread like nobody's business. Tronica, I'm sorry. I hope you don't mind. If you do just call me an ass, I'll stop. I owe you for the idea.

I bough the Porcelain Fixture Socket #77077 Standard base 10" leads. Is this the right one?
No, you need a 'mogul' type base. It is much bigger than the standard. There is also medium base, but you don't want that. The bulb you buy determines this, but any 600w will be mogul base.

I have a 6" inline duct fan from lowes. I think its rated at 250cfm. Do you think this will cool my 600w HPS?
It might work. I know you weren't asking me, but I think fans are a place not to scrimp. But you already have it, so try it. You might need two of them next to eachother.

What do you feel is the best positional situation to place the fan? Before the cool tube, after, one before, one after, etc, etc
I asked around on the forums about this before making my light, and people say: Fan before light (makes fans job easier to push instead of pull). And Tronica told me to put the bulb end into the wind. So like the wind will blow directly on the tip of the bulb, then blow over the socket last.

Tronica, sorry again. Don't hate me.
 

reeferMaster

Well-Known Member
awsome diy. i like the style but i wana make some thing that holds 2 bulbs i was thinking for instance haveing a wing reflector or parabloic that holds a mh and hps verticaly w/ out the cool tube. have n e suggestions.
 

Tronica

Well-Known Member
hey jig, no problem at all helping me out with answers.

i need no compensation or credit for making this

just knowing that someone is using my idea (or a variation of) is a nice enough feeling. and i would hope this diy helps others as much as other diys have helped me.

there are alot of nice cool tube diys around all the different sites, but i figured this one had a little niche with the first time growers or growers on a budget since its so cheap to make. good luck to anyone making this and i look forward to more pics of finished projects
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
Alright, tronica, everyone, I'm finally 100% complete. This light is bad ass. 680w of dual spectrum greatness. I am using two separate ballast kits I bought from plantlightinghydroponics.com. I have a 430w hps ( $64.90 ) and a 250w mh ( $49.90 ). I needed to buy extension cords to plug them in, and also some extension #14 stranded wire to reach the sockets. And even with all the shady wiring I've done, I've only shocked myself once. Here's how I made mine.


Materials:

24"x36" Sheet Metal - Lowe's - $8

(2) 18" Strong Ties (thin) - Lowe's - $2

(2) 6" Strong Ties (thick) - Lowe's - $4

(2) Hurricane glass' - Michael's - $12

High heat white spray paint - Home Depot - $5

(8 ft) Chain - Home Depot - $4

(6) S-Hooks - Lowe's - $3

Nuts, bolts, threaded eyelets, washers all were from my junk drawer.

4" semi rigid ducting - My leftover drawer.

4" flexible ducting - Lowe's - (25') $18

(2) 4" rigid 90 deg ducting - Lowe's - $6.30

Duct Tape - Ace - $3

Galvanized steel wire - Home Depot - around $3

The total I figure I spent on it was ~$60. (i know if you add up the costs it's more than that, but I used some of the left over materials for other stuff)

All told with ballasts, bulbs, materials, tax, shipping I think it cost me around $260. Personally I think that is pretty good for basically 2 complete light setups with a custom enclosure.


Tools: (just a suggestion, you can use whatever you want)

1 big piece of wood with sharp clean 90 edges.

Gas Mask/ Ventilator (wear to spray paint, save your lungs for the pot)

48" ruler (at least 36")

2" pvc pipe (to bend the middle bend)

vice or clamp

big ass hammer (sledge if you are man, haha)

drill (some bits help too)

big roll of something like fencing or small tree trunk - anything cylindrical (to roll the curves out on)

sheet metal shears


Procedure:

The biggest problem I had with the whole thing was getting my sheet metal to come out right. There were two major parts to the sheet metal, the creases and the bends.

The creases I started by laying a big board on top of the flat sheet and trying to crease it by bending the edges up. This worked to get my creases started, but they were maybe 45 degree angles, not a very 'clean' crease.

To make the creases nice and strong I picked the board up and bent the creases with my hands over the edge of the board. This worked well.

To make the bends I tried many things, you guys really should have seen me. Just by pulling at it, I bent it a little, then what did the trick was wrapping it around my hardware cloth roll. And I just bent and rolled it as much as I possibly could, and it came out as you see it. At the most curled under pressure (while I was bending it) it more than overlapped itself.

For my design I had to cut holes in the reflector for venting to pass through. The reflector is pretty much exactly the size of my closet, and the venting had to get to the bulbs somehow. I just used sheet metal shears and cut the oblong hole you see, for the 90 degree rigid ducting to fit in.

I used the 18 thin straps on the underside of the reflector. This strap is what the bolts that connect to the chain go through and also what the heavy strap bolts to. They are also for structural support.

I bent the heavy straps to 90 degrees using a clamp (2 actually) and a sledge hammer.

I then painted the straps and reflector with high temp spray paint, flat white. I could have probably gotten normal spray paint, but why risk anything, especially for $1 difference.

I bolted everything together using pretty small machine bolts with locking washers. I used 2 to connect each heavy strap to the thin strap/ reflector. I used 2 machine threaded eyelets with locking washers for each thin strap to hold the thing up. And I used one extra screw to bolt the thin strap to the reflector. So for each side there are 5 bolts holding the straps to the reflector (3 bolts, 2 eyelet bolts).

The glass is connected using the Galvanized Steel wire. I just wrapped it around each end of the glass and stuck it through a hole I drilled, then made a loop to hold it in place. Simple. Also most of the rigidity of the glass comes from taping it to the ducting.

The 90 degree rigid ducting is just taped in place, the 180 degree semi rigid ducting as well just taped in place. I have the flexible ducting leading from the fan to the light and from the light out the roof.

The sockets are bolted twice each to the thick straps. I drilled two little holes for the socket wires to pass through the reflector. The wires leave the socket and goes in between the glass and the ducting (i just tape around them).

The bulbs I situated so that the first thing the fresh wind hits is the tip of the first bulb, blowing over the bulb, then the socket, making the 180 turn hitting the next bulb tip, then blowing over the bulb and out the other end.

My original plan was that the wind would always hit the 430w first, but I decided I would rotate bulbs to make the plants happy.

One tip a newbie will need when ordering bulbs. For best results use ED18 or T15 shaped bulbs, they are the skinny ones. Most others won't fit at all.


Results:

I have a 430w HPS and a 250w MH going. I have a 435 cfm inline fan (6" fan being forced to run through 4" ducts). With the fan collecting cool air (around 65 F) from the bedroom, the lights stay very cool (considering).

It is not that the 430w gets hotter than the 250w, but rather whichever is second in line for cooling is much hotter (duh). Even so, I can hold my hand on the first tube, and I can momentarily touch the second tube (it's kinda hot).

That heat dissipate quickly though as my plant tips have been at most 6" from the lowest glass for a week with both lights, no heat stress whatsoever. I'm more worried about light bleaching, but nothing yet.

Temps in the room stay around 80, but I do have a thermostat. However the room exhaust doesn't go off all the time, so the temps stay low.:bigjoint:

If you have any questions I don't think Tronica would mind you asking. Not only did he give us this great idea, but he is gracious with his thread too.:blsmoke:

If you haven't already give Tronica a +rep (you click on the scales on the top right of one of his posts)

:peace:
 

Attachments

Alright, tronica, everyone, I'm finally 100% complete. This light is bad ass. 680w of dual spectrum greatness. I am using two separate ballast kits I bought from plantlightinghydroponics.com. I have a 430w hps ( $64.90 ) and a 250w mh ( $49.90 ). I needed to buy extension cords to plug them in, and also some extension #14 stranded wire to reach the sockets. And even with all the shady wiring I've done, I've only shocked myself once. Here's how I made mine.


Materials:

24"x36" Sheet Metal - Lowe's - $8

(2) 18" Strong Ties (thin) - Lowe's - $2

(2) 6" Strong Ties (thick) - Lowe's - $4

(2) Hurricane glass' - Michael's - $12

High heat white spray paint - Home Depot - $5

(8 ft) Chain - Home Depot - $4

(6) S-Hooks - Lowe's - $3

Nuts, bolts, threaded eyelets, washers all were from my junk drawer.

4" semi rigid ducting - My leftover drawer.

4" flexible ducting - Lowe's - (25') $18

(2) 4" rigid 90 deg ducting - Lowe's - $6.30

Duct Tape - Ace - $3

Galvanized steel wire - Home Depot - around $3

The total I figure I spent on it was ~$60. (i know if you add up the costs it's more than that, but I used some of the left over materials for other stuff)

All told with ballasts, bulbs, materials, tax, shipping I think it cost me around $260. Personally I think that is pretty good for basically 2 complete light setups with a custom enclosure.


Tools: (just a suggestion, you can use whatever you want)

1 big piece of wood with sharp clean 90 edges.

Gas Mask/ Ventilator (wear to spray paint, save your lungs for the pot)

48" ruler (at least 36")

2" pvc pipe (to bend the middle bend)

vice or clamp

big ass hammer (sledge if you are man, haha)

drill (some bits help too)

big roll of something like fencing or small tree trunk - anything cylindrical (to roll the curves out on)

sheet metal shears


Procedure:

The biggest problem I had with the whole thing was getting my sheet metal to come out right. There were two major parts to the sheet metal, the creases and the bends.

The creases I started by laying a big board on top of the flat sheet and trying to crease it by bending the edges up. This worked to get my creases started, but they were maybe 45 degree angles, not a very 'clean' crease.

To make the creases nice and strong I picked the board up and bent the creases with my hands over the edge of the board. This worked well.

To make the bends I tried many things, you guys really should have seen me. Just by pulling at it, I bent it a little, then what did the trick was wrapping it around my hardware cloth roll. And I just bent and rolled it as much as I possibly could, and it came out as you see it. At the most curled under pressure (while I was bending it) it more than overlapped itself.

For my design I had to cut holes in the reflector for venting to pass through. The reflector is pretty much exactly the size of my closet, and the venting had to get to the bulbs somehow. I just used sheet metal shears and cut the oblong hole you see, for the 90 degree rigid ducting to fit in.

I used the 18 thin straps on the underside of the reflector. This strap is what the bolts that connect to the chain go through and also what the heavy strap bolts to. They are also for structural support.

I bent the heavy straps to 90 degrees using a clamp (2 actually) and a sledge hammer.

I then painted the straps and reflector with high temp spray paint, flat white. I could have probably gotten normal spray paint, but why risk anything, especially for $1 difference.

I bolted everything together using pretty small machine bolts with locking washers. I used 2 to connect each heavy strap to the thin strap/ reflector. I used 2 machine threaded eyelets with locking washers for each thin strap to hold the thing up. And I used one extra screw to bolt the thin strap to the reflector. So for each side there are 5 bolts holding the straps to the reflector (3 bolts, 2 eyelet bolts).

The glass is connected using the Galvanized Steel wire. I just wrapped it around each end of the glass and stuck it through a hole I drilled, then made a loop to hold it in place. Simple. Also most of the rigidity of the glass comes from taping it to the ducting.

The 90 degree rigid ducting is just taped in place, the 180 degree semi rigid ducting as well just taped in place. I have the flexible ducting leading from the fan to the light and from the light out the roof.

The sockets are bolted twice each to the thick straps. I drilled two little holes for the socket wires to pass through the reflector. The wires leave the socket and goes in between the glass and the ducting (i just tape around them).

The bulbs I situated so that the first thing the fresh wind hits is the tip of the first bulb, blowing over the bulb, then the socket, making the 180 turn hitting the next bulb tip, then blowing over the bulb and out the other end.

My original plan was that the wind would always hit the 430w first, but I decided I would rotate bulbs to make the plants happy.

One tip a newbie will need when ordering bulbs. For best results use ED18 or T15 shaped bulbs, they are the skinny ones. Most others won't fit at all.


Results:

I have a 430w HPS and a 250w MH going. I have a 435 cfm inline fan (6" fan being forced to run through 4" ducts). With the fan collecting cool air (around 65 F) from the bedroom, the lights stay very cool (considering).

It is not that the 430w gets hotter than the 250w, but rather whichever is second in line for cooling is much hotter (duh). Even so, I can hold my hand on the first tube, and I can momentarily touch the second tube (it's kinda hot).

That heat dissipate quickly though as my plant tips have been at most 6" from the lowest glass for a week with both lights, no heat stress whatsoever. I'm more worried about light bleaching, but nothing yet.

Temps in the room stay around 80, but I do have a thermostat. However the room exhaust doesn't go off all the time, so the temps stay low.:bigjoint:

If you have any questions I don't think Tronica would mind you asking. Not only did he give us this great idea, but he is gracious with his thread too.:blsmoke:

If you haven't already give Tronica a +rep (you click on the scales on the top right of one of his posts)

:peace:
thread bump for ya jig looking sweet man, im here for the ride, pulling up a chair :weed:
 
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