Bc Blondes Samsung 561 and Game Changers

PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
pirg420 said:
Guess you never saw any of my videos showing the heatsink and case temps of my old lights. 25-32C. I guess you like the old huge pin fin style heatsinks that run at 40-55C. To each their own.
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I guess we will never know how adequate your stuffed to the gills active cooling worked because you never sphere tested them....... you also claimed your cob fixtures where the most efficient on the market too because of the ppfd chart you did on the living room floor......... lol

www.rollitup.org/t/hlg-550-vs-plc-6.948295/page-6

The new ones do "look" good, still wouldn't call them game changers though==to each their own
 
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pirg420

pirg420

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
A lot of people on here don't seem to grasp the difference between heat and temperature. 600 watts of heat is 600 wats of heat, regardless of the heatsink temperature. Two different heat sinks can dissipate that heat at different temperatures, but its still the exact same amount of heat energy going into the tent. The only caveat is that lower temps make the LED's a little more efficient (and longer lasting).
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The only reason i bring up heat sink temps all the time is because with lower heatsink temps efficiency goes up, like you said. although i would say its more than a little.
 
pirg420

pirg420

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO. said:
I guess we will never know how adequate your stuffed to the gills active cooling worked because you never sphere tested them....... you also claimed your cob fixtures where the most efficient on the market too because of the ppfd chart you did on the living room floor......... lol

www.rollitup.org/t/hlg-550-vs-plc-6.948295/page-6

The new ones do "look" good, still wouldn't call them game changers though==to each their own
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Not sure what i ever did to you in the past to get a negative response? The old fixtures were not sphere tested, by the time everyone else started doing sphere testing there was no point to pay the money to test an outdated fixture. the new ones will be. Like i said, i made many videos showing 25-32C heatsink temps, and im sorry, but chips running at 25-32 will be alot more efficient than chips running at 40-55. i still stick by everything ive said about my old db powered units. they were/are beasts and the 12-16 cob fixtures were gavita killers.
 
pirg420

pirg420

Well-Known Member
pirg420 said:
The only reason i bring up heat sink temps all the time is because with lower heatsink temps efficiency goes up, like you said. although i would say its more than a little.
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I have a video/experiment planned to show how much active cooling helps, even on passively cooled setups. Put the par meter below a passively cooled light, get the readings stable, then turn on fans and watch the par meter readings go up. stay tuned.
 
BarryBwana

BarryBwana

Well-Known Member
Think I'm about to pull the trigger on a 340w Game Changer..... got a 600w Vipar spectra in the 2x4 tent, but i want something real for when I switchboard flower in a week or so.
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I still can't figure out why everyone insists on attaching their drivers to the boards. The best way to remove heat is to locate the drivers outside the tent/room/grow area. You rarely see ballasts attached to HID hoods for that very reason - nearly all of them are remote. It doesn't make sense (to me) to add thermal energy to the heat sinks that are trying to duct heat away from the LEDs - it's counter-productive.

No drivers here:
IMG_0314.jpg

Or here:
AFrame2.jpg
FloweringFrames.jpg

Or here:
Newframe2.jpg
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Unless you live in Australia. Or somewhere else where it gets hot. In any case, there is nothing preventing you from moving a remote driver inside the tent - it gives you options that a fixed-board driver doesn't. Just sayin'\

EDIT: Don't get me wrong, the bcblondes boards look like a nice bit of kit and are very neat, but I know from experience drivers get hot. So I'm wondering if you located the drivers remotely, would you really need the fans and extra ducting on top of the heat sinks? It's simple enough to run boards/strips with passive heatsinks and a pedestal or hanging fan that does both jobs of ducting heat away while fanning the canopy at the same time.
 
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SMT69

SMT69

Well-Known Member
My drivers get burning hot, i have to mount mine out...i guess if you lived were it was cold you could leave them in....but i would think it would be better to warm the room instead of inside the tent?(moisture)...... But really thats the flexability with leds! either way..
 
maxlev

maxlev

Well-Known Member
SMT69 said:
My drivers get burning hot, i have to mount mine out...i guess if you lived were it was cold you could leave them in....but i would think it would be better to warm the room instead of inside the tent?(moisture)...... But really thats the flexability with leds! either way..
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Got a 14 fin oil heater in room near inlet. 80 yr old house at cold end of NZ. Lights (QB135w288V2) have been on for just over an hour & driver temp (mounted on heat sink) is 37C. Tent temp 20C. Not ideal but summer will get here eventually.
 
zypheruk

zypheruk

Well-Known Member
extra heat from the drivers is fine if you need the extra heat. Saying that it is still better to keep the drivers of the heatsink. The leds and driver will run better when cooler. Mount your driver elsewhere in the grow space and have a fan blow over it to mix the heat in with the ambient temps.
 
maxlev

maxlev

Well-Known Member
zypheruk said:
extra heat from the drivers is fine if you need the extra heat. Saying that it is still better to keep the drivers of the heatsink. The leds and driver will run better when cooler. Mount your driver elsewhere in the grow space and have a fan blow over it to mix the heat in with the ambient temps.
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I can monitor the temps with ir thermometer & will lift the drivers off heat sink if needed.
Heat is definitely not an issue at present.
Got a ChilLED 100w on the way that will blow a gale out each side to hang between the 2 QB`s for some extra photons.

20181004_224417.jpg
 
Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
Prawn Connery said:
I still can't figure out why everyone insists on attaching their drivers to the boards. The best way to remove heat is to locate the drivers outside the tent/room/grow area. You rarely see ballasts attached to HID hoods for that very reason - nearly all of them are remote. It doesn't make sense (to me) to add thermal energy to the heat sinks that are trying to duct heat away from the LEDs - it's counter-productive.

No drivers here:
View attachment 4210120

Or here:
View attachment 4210124
View attachment 4210118

Or here:
View attachment 4210116
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Some of us need the heat. Otherwise, I concur.
 
Prawn Connery

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I understand that, but isn't it better to run your LEDs as cool as you can for greater efficiency and then locate the driver somewhere else so it can add ambient warmth to the room?

I'm really just repeating this point already made:
zypheruk said:
extra heat from the drivers is fine if you need the extra heat. Saying that it is still better to keep the drivers of the heatsink. The leds and driver will run better when cooler. Mount your driver elsewhere in the grow space and have a fan blow over it to mix the heat in with the ambient temps.
Click to expand...
I know there is some resistance and a small amount of voltage drop from running a remote driver, but that's the only real consideration I can think of to run a driver on top of a LED board.
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
on pure common sense, i would never mount a driver directly over leds, as a minimum mount an extra frame on the board to keep the driver off the heatsink, check driver datasheets they all start to derate from 70 Deg C
 
pirg420

pirg420

Well-Known Member
welight said:
on pure common sense, i would never mount a driver directly over leds, as a minimum mount an extra frame on the board to keep the driver off the heatsink, check driver datasheets they all start to derate from 70 Deg C
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Good thing the driver isnt touching the heatsink.

with that big heatsink those lights dont get anywhere near 70C.
 
buckets

buckets

Well-Known Member
I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if anyone out there has run a full cycle using the BCblondes game changer and if so if they could show us some pictures and give their opinion on these lights please? Thank you.
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
buckets said:
I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if anyone out there has run a full cycle using the BCblondes game changer and if so if they could show us some pictures and give their opinion on these lights please? Thank you.
Click to expand...
Check the quantum board threads/grows..... Same mid power diodes.
 
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