Beneficial mites
- Thread starter Larfy BUD
- Start date
Larfy BUD
Member
What you should know
• Predatory mites feed on all life stages of many small arthropods and target pest spider mites.
• Most predatory mite species do best in humid conditions and controlled environments such as greenhouses and high tunnels, although some species such as the western predatory mite toler- ate high temperatures and low humidity.
• Predatory mites are commercially available to fit most farm, landscape and garden situations.
• Predatory mites do not damage plants, but feed on plant pollen when prey is unavailable.
Predatory mites can provide natural pest control by eating unwanted pests. These beneficial mites are one way to maintain pest populations at non-damaging levels, known as biological control. By encouraging predatory mite populations, plants can be protected from excessive pest attack and damage.
Mites are arthropods, characterized by having an exo- skeleton and jointed appendages among other traits, and are not insects. They belong to the same class as spiders, Arachnida. There are over 40,000 recognized species of mites worldwide. The most familiar are the pest mites that feed on plants, such as the two-spotted spider mite, an economically important pest of many crops. There are also many predatory mites that feed on pest mites and small insects.
Predatory mites occur naturally in varied habitats from agricultural fields to small backyard gardens. It is best
to encourage native populations through recognized conservation practices. These practices include scouting for pests and predators and using “soft” pesticides rather than broad-spectrum chemicals. Many beneficial spe- cies can also be purchased and released. It is crucial to choose the mite species appropriate for the environment. Most beneficial mites prefer higher humidity and lower temperatures than what is common during the summer in Utah. The most common commercially available benefi- cial species are shown in Table 1 (pg. 3).
Fig. 1. Western predatory mite (right) attacking a Euro- pean red mite (left).1
The predatory mite that may do best outdoors in Utah is the western predatory mite (Galendromus occidentalis). Suppliers may use other names for the western predatory mite, such as, Typhlodromus occidentalis or Mesoseiulus occidentalis.
DESCRIPTION
Western predatory mites are very small (about 0.5 mm or 1/50 inch), typically requiring at least a hand lens to see them. The adults are teardrop- or pear-shaped arach- nids with four pairs of legs. They do not have antennae, segmented bodies, or wings. Using a microscope, the piercing-sucking mouthparts can be seen sticking out in front of the head. Western predatory mites are smaller
or equal in size to most spider mite species. They are also much more active than the slow moving pest mites. Their bodies vary in color from cream to green to red, depend- ing on the color of their recent food source.
Life cycle:
Predatory mites have five stages in their life cycle—egg, six-legged larval stage, protonymph, deutonymph, and adult. Most beneficial species have a life cycle very simi- lar to what is outlined below.
Eggs are oval, clear, larger than spider mite eggs (which are round), and typically laid on the underside of leaves. They are laid individually and the larvae hatch in 2-3 days.
• Predatory mites feed on all life stages of many small arthropods and target pest spider mites.
• Most predatory mite species do best in humid conditions and controlled environments such as greenhouses and high tunnels, although some species such as the western predatory mite toler- ate high temperatures and low humidity.
• Predatory mites are commercially available to fit most farm, landscape and garden situations.
• Predatory mites do not damage plants, but feed on plant pollen when prey is unavailable.
Predatory mites can provide natural pest control by eating unwanted pests. These beneficial mites are one way to maintain pest populations at non-damaging levels, known as biological control. By encouraging predatory mite populations, plants can be protected from excessive pest attack and damage.
Mites are arthropods, characterized by having an exo- skeleton and jointed appendages among other traits, and are not insects. They belong to the same class as spiders, Arachnida. There are over 40,000 recognized species of mites worldwide. The most familiar are the pest mites that feed on plants, such as the two-spotted spider mite, an economically important pest of many crops. There are also many predatory mites that feed on pest mites and small insects.
Predatory mites occur naturally in varied habitats from agricultural fields to small backyard gardens. It is best
to encourage native populations through recognized conservation practices. These practices include scouting for pests and predators and using “soft” pesticides rather than broad-spectrum chemicals. Many beneficial spe- cies can also be purchased and released. It is crucial to choose the mite species appropriate for the environment. Most beneficial mites prefer higher humidity and lower temperatures than what is common during the summer in Utah. The most common commercially available benefi- cial species are shown in Table 1 (pg. 3).
Fig. 1. Western predatory mite (right) attacking a Euro- pean red mite (left).1
The predatory mite that may do best outdoors in Utah is the western predatory mite (Galendromus occidentalis). Suppliers may use other names for the western predatory mite, such as, Typhlodromus occidentalis or Mesoseiulus occidentalis.
DESCRIPTION
Western predatory mites are very small (about 0.5 mm or 1/50 inch), typically requiring at least a hand lens to see them. The adults are teardrop- or pear-shaped arach- nids with four pairs of legs. They do not have antennae, segmented bodies, or wings. Using a microscope, the piercing-sucking mouthparts can be seen sticking out in front of the head. Western predatory mites are smaller
or equal in size to most spider mite species. They are also much more active than the slow moving pest mites. Their bodies vary in color from cream to green to red, depend- ing on the color of their recent food source.
Life cycle:
Predatory mites have five stages in their life cycle—egg, six-legged larval stage, protonymph, deutonymph, and adult. Most beneficial species have a life cycle very simi- lar to what is outlined below.
Eggs are oval, clear, larger than spider mite eggs (which are round), and typically laid on the underside of leaves. They are laid individually and the larvae hatch in 2-3 days.
Larfy BUD
Member
Larvae have three pairs of legs (six total) and begin- feeding on prey immediately after hatching. After feed- ing on one or two prey for one or two days they molt to the protonymph stage.
Protonymphs and deutonymphs are first and sec- ond stage nymphs, respectively, that increase in size and have four pairs of legs (eight total). Each stage consumes prey over one or two days, getting slightly larger and eventually molting to adulthood.
Fig. 2. Female western predatory mite and eggs (white).2
Adult females consume about two prey per day for about five to six weeks. They deposit an average of 33 eggs during that time. Males consume about one prey per day for about four to five weeks.
Predatory mites have multiple generations per year and develop from egg to adult in 6 – 12 days. Western preda- tory mites go into diapause (dormancy) when there
are less than 11 hours of daylight. There are, however, non-diapausing strains that can be used effectively in greenhouses during short winter days. Adults overwinter in protected places, such as bark, leaves or soil debris.
Foraging:
Western predatory mites are quite versatile in that they can be used in low-growing crops such as strawberries, mid-height crops such as grapes and cane fruit, and tree fruit crops. They will attack adult, juvenile, and egg stages of many pests, such as two-spotted spider mites, Mc- Daniel spider mites, yellow spider mites, apple and pear rust mites, Prunus rust mites, blister mites, and sometimes European red mites, making them a fairly versatile gener- alist predator. They will also feed on other predatory mites and small insects. They consume their prey by piercing and sucking them dry. Amblyseius spp. also tend to be generalist while Neoseiulus cucumeris target thrips, and P. persimilis targets spider mites more specifically.
Many predatory mites supplement their diet with plant pollen, which helps limit their dispersal in the general area where they are resident or released as a biological
control agent. The additional food resource and limited mobility allows predatory mites to act as “body guards” and protect plants from pest mite outbreaks even when pest populations are low.
PROMOTING BENEFICIAL MITES
Augmentation and Inoculation:
Predatory mites can be purchased through commercial suppliers and they also occur naturally. Augmentation is the practice of timing the introduction of a fresh popula- tion of predators to help the current native population keep up with an observed or anticipated flare-up of a pest population. Inoculation is the practice of introduc- ing predators into an area where the population is low or non-existent.
When pest spider mite populations are high it is better
to apply a “soft” pesticide, such as insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, before introducing predators. This should knock the pest mite population down so the predator introduction can be more effective. If a miticide is to be used in a “hot spot” it should be applied before the intro- duction of the predators—preferably several days before the release. This strategy will improve the effectiveness of the predatory mites. Read the pesticide label to select the product that will best fit the pest management plan. It is important to note that some pesticide-tolerant strains of predatory mites are available as biological control agents.
Release process:
Several species of predatory mites can be purchased through commercial suppliers (Table 1, pg. 3). Select the predatory mite that best fits the pest management plan (e.g., target pest, greenhouse, etc.). Mites are usu- ally shipped overnight in an insulated container with an ice pack to improve survivability. When the shipment is received it should be opened and inspected as soon as possible to determine whether the mites are still alive.
The mites are typically combined with a carrier mate- rial, such as vermiculite, corncob dust, or sawdust. A light spray of water on the application area will help the mites and carrier material stay in place when they are applied to the infested area. It is best to apply them to the field, garden, or greenhouse as soon as possible to ensure their survival. To avoid extreme heat
or cold that can decrease pred-
ator success, apply them in the
early morning or late evening.
Be sure to follow the supplier’s
instructions.
Fig. 3. Predatory mites are ap- plied from a shaker container provided by the commercial
supplier.
Protonymphs and deutonymphs are first and sec- ond stage nymphs, respectively, that increase in size and have four pairs of legs (eight total). Each stage consumes prey over one or two days, getting slightly larger and eventually molting to adulthood.
Fig. 2. Female western predatory mite and eggs (white).2
Adult females consume about two prey per day for about five to six weeks. They deposit an average of 33 eggs during that time. Males consume about one prey per day for about four to five weeks.
Predatory mites have multiple generations per year and develop from egg to adult in 6 – 12 days. Western preda- tory mites go into diapause (dormancy) when there
are less than 11 hours of daylight. There are, however, non-diapausing strains that can be used effectively in greenhouses during short winter days. Adults overwinter in protected places, such as bark, leaves or soil debris.
Foraging:
Western predatory mites are quite versatile in that they can be used in low-growing crops such as strawberries, mid-height crops such as grapes and cane fruit, and tree fruit crops. They will attack adult, juvenile, and egg stages of many pests, such as two-spotted spider mites, Mc- Daniel spider mites, yellow spider mites, apple and pear rust mites, Prunus rust mites, blister mites, and sometimes European red mites, making them a fairly versatile gener- alist predator. They will also feed on other predatory mites and small insects. They consume their prey by piercing and sucking them dry. Amblyseius spp. also tend to be generalist while Neoseiulus cucumeris target thrips, and P. persimilis targets spider mites more specifically.
Many predatory mites supplement their diet with plant pollen, which helps limit their dispersal in the general area where they are resident or released as a biological
control agent. The additional food resource and limited mobility allows predatory mites to act as “body guards” and protect plants from pest mite outbreaks even when pest populations are low.
PROMOTING BENEFICIAL MITES
Augmentation and Inoculation:
Predatory mites can be purchased through commercial suppliers and they also occur naturally. Augmentation is the practice of timing the introduction of a fresh popula- tion of predators to help the current native population keep up with an observed or anticipated flare-up of a pest population. Inoculation is the practice of introduc- ing predators into an area where the population is low or non-existent.
When pest spider mite populations are high it is better
to apply a “soft” pesticide, such as insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, before introducing predators. This should knock the pest mite population down so the predator introduction can be more effective. If a miticide is to be used in a “hot spot” it should be applied before the intro- duction of the predators—preferably several days before the release. This strategy will improve the effectiveness of the predatory mites. Read the pesticide label to select the product that will best fit the pest management plan. It is important to note that some pesticide-tolerant strains of predatory mites are available as biological control agents.
Release process:
Several species of predatory mites can be purchased through commercial suppliers (Table 1, pg. 3). Select the predatory mite that best fits the pest management plan (e.g., target pest, greenhouse, etc.). Mites are usu- ally shipped overnight in an insulated container with an ice pack to improve survivability. When the shipment is received it should be opened and inspected as soon as possible to determine whether the mites are still alive.
The mites are typically combined with a carrier mate- rial, such as vermiculite, corncob dust, or sawdust. A light spray of water on the application area will help the mites and carrier material stay in place when they are applied to the infested area. It is best to apply them to the field, garden, or greenhouse as soon as possible to ensure their survival. To avoid extreme heat
or cold that can decrease pred-
ator success, apply them in the
early morning or late evening.
Be sure to follow the supplier’s
instructions.
Fig. 3. Predatory mites are ap- plied from a shaker container provided by the commercial
supplier.
Larfy BUD
Member
I love theses things. I haven’t had any problems with bugs I put them on when flowering and veg. For prevention. I spray as we’ll but I wait a Week before introducing them in to my garden. the girls love them too they stay all healthy and bug free 
any way I recommend them definitely to any grower
any way I recommend them definitely to any grower
Last edited:
Severed Tongue
Well-Known Member
I used to spray.... and spray.... and spray.... and spray.... and....
Im indoors, smalI personal grow, I get thrips from the soil I buy and use.
Found out about cucumeris predatory mites, No more spraying, they solve it then they eat each other and die off.
Best solution imo.
Im indoors, smalI personal grow, I get thrips from the soil I buy and use.
Found out about cucumeris predatory mites, No more spraying, they solve it then they eat each other and die off.
Best solution imo.
Larfy BUD
Member
I totally agree dude been using them for a couple years love them .
Wizzlebiz
Well-Known Member
My answer is no. I won't use them.
I dont want to add a bunch of bugs to get rid of a bunch of bugs.
Sure they don't harm your plant and eat those things that do however it still leaves weed with bugs in it.
I'm more on the side of pest prevention. Stop them from coming in the 1st place and you don't need anything else.
Also if you are going to use bugs to clean your plants get some lady bugs. At least they are big enough to not get stuck in the buds.
I dont want to add a bunch of bugs to get rid of a bunch of bugs.
Sure they don't harm your plant and eat those things that do however it still leaves weed with bugs in it.
I'm more on the side of pest prevention. Stop them from coming in the 1st place and you don't need anything else.
Also if you are going to use bugs to clean your plants get some lady bugs. At least they are big enough to not get stuck in the buds.
Larfy BUD
Member
Great point but in return you don’t have pesticide residue on them so it’s a give and take On both.
buckaclark
Well-Known Member
There is a different dynamic here Larfy,it's understood no one is spraying pesticides on buds ,before they talk about beneficial insects mmkay
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Ladybugs are a bitch inside. They're fly all over the place and get in fans.
Wizzlebiz
Well-Known Member
That's a reasonable issue. Didn't considered that.
Wizzlebiz
Well-Known Member
If we are talking about indoors you should not need pesticides to begin with.
Larfy BUD
Member
Neem oil is considered a pesticide. and in commercial grows they can’t use it as they say it makes a certain Sulfur smoke in your lungs. or something like that. But very true organic is always best my dude.
Funkentelechy
Well-Known Member
Beneficial mites leave after you harvest, they only stick around while there is something for them to eat. They aren't just going to hang out on some dead dry bud with nothing to eat until you come along and smoke them. When you hang them up to dry the beneficial mites take off in search of a food source.
There are threads on here all the time recommending spraying during flower. Here is one recently where the recommendation was to spray during flowering: https://www.rollitup.org/t/spider-mites-late-stage-flowering.1079336/ "If you don't see any pistil burn I'd increase the rate some and hit them again"," small parts of sugar leaves are burned". The recommendation in that specific thread was to use citric acid which is relatively benign but are dead pistils and dead leaf tips better than using mites that leave once harvested?
To be fair, commentators to this thread are recommending spraying as a preventative, not spraying buds, which is entirely different than what the people on the above thread are talking about. But, many people find themselves with a pest problem during flower and end up spraying during flower, for those people I think beneficial mites are an option that should be given consideration.
Mos Eisley
Member
Severed Tongue
Well-Known Member
I have used cucumeris when plants are small and in veg to ensure no thrips when flowering begins, as in my case, the soil I buy can have pests.
It's easy to proclaim, you shouldn't have bugs in the 1st place, but shit happens, and when it does, you deal with it.
I've needed to use them 3 runs in 8 grows.
The only real mistake I made was bringing my pepper plants indoors to overwinter last fall, they were infested with aphids and I could not beat them. After that grow, I binned all my plants, sterilized the room and started from seeds.
Funny thing about aphids, seems they don't go into the buds, instead staying only on stems and leaves. Learned a lot from observing the little cunts for 4 months.
Everyone also rag's on me for using Miracle-Gro moisture control soil and Miracle-Gro salts plant food (fully synthetic, not organic) but other than fungus gnats which is solved with fabric pots and watering, the soil can have thrips too, no big deal, the medium is perfect for cannabis, use a pack of cucumeris early on, done and done.
Don't give a shit about opinions, opinions dont grow plants, knowledge does, I took a couple courses, read some books, I know what I need to, and have applied that knowledge to 7 successful indoor runs, ok 6, and 1 aphid run... lol.
Also I dunk wash my harvest after chopping either way, so my bud is as clean as it can possibly get. Even inside with filters and fans you get a fair amount of dust and other organic matter residue so I recommend everyone should do this, as you're complaining about mites, there's tons of way worse mites in dust imho.
It's easy to proclaim, you shouldn't have bugs in the 1st place, but shit happens, and when it does, you deal with it.
I've needed to use them 3 runs in 8 grows.
The only real mistake I made was bringing my pepper plants indoors to overwinter last fall, they were infested with aphids and I could not beat them. After that grow, I binned all my plants, sterilized the room and started from seeds.
Funny thing about aphids, seems they don't go into the buds, instead staying only on stems and leaves. Learned a lot from observing the little cunts for 4 months.
Everyone also rag's on me for using Miracle-Gro moisture control soil and Miracle-Gro salts plant food (fully synthetic, not organic) but other than fungus gnats which is solved with fabric pots and watering, the soil can have thrips too, no big deal, the medium is perfect for cannabis, use a pack of cucumeris early on, done and done.
Don't give a shit about opinions, opinions dont grow plants, knowledge does, I took a couple courses, read some books, I know what I need to, and have applied that knowledge to 7 successful indoor runs, ok 6, and 1 aphid run... lol.
Also I dunk wash my harvest after chopping either way, so my bud is as clean as it can possibly get. Even inside with filters and fans you get a fair amount of dust and other organic matter residue so I recommend everyone should do this, as you're complaining about mites, there's tons of way worse mites in dust imho.
Wizzlebiz
Well-Known Member
Aphids will shed there skeleton all over your buds and sugar leaves when they become adults.