Hi.
So, I have a 3 X 3 tent (HydroHut) and I had planned to try and grow 4 5-gallon containers Super Soil in it. Vegged for 7 weeks. But, along the way, after a few toppings, the plants started to bush out and crowd each other. As luck would have it, 3 of the 4 plants I had started turned out male or hermied…..which left me with ONE plant only.
However, it was almost a blessing in disguise, because that plant was able to get ALL the light (Area 51 SGS -160 and some UVB CFLs)…and it's doing really well. But it easily takes up most of the space, by itself. I've got it staked, but it 's still bushy and wide.
I'm kind of looking ahead to my next grow and want to try 2 plants in 7-gallonn containers, instead of 4 in 5 gallon containers. Maybe I'll veg them for 6 weeks instead of 7 and then use a tomato cage to train them a bit….? Strains will likely be Sativa-dominant hybrids…so I know they tend to stretch more.
Does that sound like a good plan? ….Advice?
Would it be better to scrog two plants in 7 gallon containers? Will I still get some big buds that way?
Thanks
You may read some confusing stuff that people have posted. Do not take everything you read as correct.
I grow in a 2 foot by 2 foot cupboard. I can therefore only grow one plant at a time but get 4oz per plant per grow on a regular basis. I use a Vipar B2x2 LED light as my main light. This runs cool and is a very efficient emitter of light and ideal for my size of small grow. I have two Procyon 50W supplementals for side lightning when needed (Later in the cycle as the plant increases in size). I went this way because in such a small grow-space my 250W HPS heat-stressed my plants. Even my 350W CFL got the cupboard too hot. There is also an issue of light density.
Plants can only absorb a certain amount of light before they become saturated. After this adding more and more light reduces hte efficiency of photosynthseis. A lot of stuff is talked about lumens and PAR radiation - most of it very complicated and not necessarily relevant. Lux measures the number of photons hitting a surface. If these photons are of a type that the plant can use (Primarily but not exclusively blue and red) then all you have to worry about is light density. The max a plant can absorb is 50,000 lux. After this phtotosynthesis is starting to bleach out as the light density breaks apart some of the photosynthetic enzymes. If you carry on increasing light untill you hit 90,000 lux photosynthesis will stop. This is called solarisation.
From an economic and horticultural standpoint you do not want more than 50,000 lux or you will be wasting money and reducing the efficiency of your grow. The excess heat is insult to injury particularly in a small grow cupboard. If you get a light meter, read your lighting at the plant canopy and raise/lower your LED panel as needed to maintain roughly 50k lux. I top them out as soon as I can, to get the laterals growing and to give me an even canopy. Use a propriety nutient solution and dont muck it about. The manufacturers have optimised their product for peak effectiveness - dont try to second-guess them!! I use Cannaveg and Cannaflores for Veg and Flowering respectively. Works like charm and I see no reason to change.
I use DWC hydroponic. I made a 30 litre tank from a plastic container that I bought from a supermarket. I cut a hole in the top of the lid to take a net pot and covererd the tank with Mylar. I drilled holes in it to take in two small air-lines which go to air-stones under the root-ball. The airlines are fed by an air-pump from an aquarium supplier. No probs there.
You need to know WTF is going on inside the tank. For this I suggest a tri-meter which reads Ph of the nutrient solution, EC or Electical conductivity (nutrient density), and tank nutrient solution temperature. If one of these parameters goes out of spec you will know and can do something abpout it. Ph should be between 5.2 qnd 6.2. If this goes out of spec the uptake of nutrient/water will be less than optimum. EC depends on make of nutrient you are using. This is usually recommended on the back of bottle. Root Temperature should be in low 20's C.
Lastly - there seems to be a lot of emotion about grow-lights with some people supporting their favourites with surprising passion. Dont get involved in all that crap. Do what works and your main problem will be what to do with all that high quality bud that you have hanging around. If you need anything further explaining please feel free to ask by pm or posting.
