Best possible exhaust ventilation method

OK, so I'm assuming you didn't drink the tainted Kool Aid (read: Co2 enrichment/AirConditioning) and you want to extract heat and provide fresh air through constant exhaust . I'm about to give you something more valuable to your grow than anything you ever learned before. I've mentioned this before in other people's threads and I think it's time that I made mention of it in a thread of my own (this will be my first and only thread) so here goes. Anybody checked out Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical? If not go ahead and Google it then come back later. If you already have you might wonder how he got that 2.14 gpw yield when that grow was the definition of close quarters which should have resulted in a high temperature fail scenario if it were imitated (and it was many times to many a growers epic failure) by others. Yes, he does know and respect the burden of high water surface agitation which results in optimum oxygenation of the root zone. He also knows not to position a 600w HPS further than 2 feet from the 4" piping in a vertical set-up. He also used a high output strain. But I can't tell you how many times I've read through grow journals that copied all these parameters ( including the use of reflective insulating material) and still the grower would only get average yields (if they were lucky). It's also extra hilarious when they use Co2 and an AC unit and still come out with a crap yield. Wanna know the secret to a great yield in a vertical grow? Use the 20" circulation fan pointed up toward the light and keep the specs the same as Heath did. But more importantly , wouldn't you like to know how to get that bottom to top air circulation in a regular horizontal garden? Because you can't just point a fan upward through a densely packed sea of green( fans simply don't have a "dematerialization" feature ).The secret is out. May I so humbly present to you the concept of a raised floor intake/ceiling exhaust ventilation scenario. I don't like tents for grow rooms but I'll use it for an example since they're all the rage.Take a wooden pallet or two (or three or four) and modify it to fit the footprint of your tent. Glue or tape 1 layer of 3/4" Mylar coated white polystyrene foam board to the top side of the modified pallet. Lay the tent on top of the foam covered pallet and secure it with glue or preferably tape (so it can come apart if need be). Now lay another foam board on top of the tent floor and secure it to the inner perimeter with tape. With a drill and 1/4" metal twist bit make as many holes (equidistant spacing please) in the composite floor cross section that would equal 4X the circular mil area of your exhaust outflow port. When your done with that, go ahead and locate the inflow port(s) of your exhaust fan(s) above the hood(s) flush with the tent (or proper grow room) ceiling. Remember to not use a vented hood with this scenario. A batwing style pebbled aluminum reflector (can you say adjust-a-wing?) will be ideal in this case. Got that? Good... Now do it. I'll wait. But after you do it( yes, I know it will be hard to get the exhaust to flow through the ceiling without a 90 degree bend but I figured it out and so will you if you are willing and able) [and do it properly mind you] (meaning a high enough output exhaust fan for the cubic foot volume and light intensity inside the room or tent), please post a grow journal of your experience with the worlds best ventilation method for a regular horizontal garden (remember: No Co2, No intake fan [passive intake] and just exhaust fans and carbon filter/silencer all sized properly). Don't blame me for a low yield if you are using soil and or organics. I only guarantee this method for DWC hydro done with a real deal air pump and 8.5" round aluminum oxide airstones. If you don't want to use the aforementioned airstones prepare to suffer a lower yield. Remember, even with the worlds best ventilation the chain will only be as strong as the weakest link, so that also means no cycling exhaust fans on and off for Co2 enrichment. Co2 enrichment or AC units of any shape or form have no place in this (already proven) experiment.Prepare for greatness.

Speaking of tainted kool aid, what you sellin?

I ain't sellin nothin. Just sharing what has worked for me and the World Hydro King himself, Heath Robinson.

Dude you were pushin that idea on another thread . I don't think anyone's biting.

I know. Isn't it funny how it is the only part of Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical that nobody copies and all who try to get his yield fail miserably. Think about it. Has anybody produced a yield anywhere near Heaths with their misplaced ductless AC's? Did you also notice that Heaths vertical yields went up drastically after (compare his vertical grow journals between 2008-2010)he made the simple modification of adding a horizontally oriented circulation fan? Also, I don't care if anybody is biting. I reap the rewards of it and if everybody started "biting" there would be an excess of supply and prices would go down. My suggestion is based on years of experience and proven success not myths, like organics that do not improve flavor or yield, yet so many are biting on that because of all the colorful packaging associated with organic nutes. Although, eventually someone will be biting and benefiting and many who didn't bite will be drooling over the grow journals of those who did.

A guy who went by the handle Fatman would get snarky responses like the few I'm getting now yet he is a genius at making DIY nutes that dramatically (read:enormously) increase yield. Sometimes good advice isn't obvious even when it has been presented to the masses time and time again. Once again, go check out Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical to see the benefits of bottom to top air circulation. Nothing Heath does could possibly be bad, whether or not anybody is biting.

So, this thing between you and Heath statting to get serious?

It's cool, I've read those post too. You've done a lot of reading in a few short weeks. Fatman is a real smart guy that can get a lot done on the cheap. What else have you been reading here?

I have many years of experience and have spent well over 150K on grow rooms. I know what I'm doing and I simply mention Heath the way a scientist would mention a predecessor before him who had success with the same method. Yeah, it does start to sound gay, the way I keep mentioning him. But I don't mind making a fool of myself (in one aspect) to let you know of a great method. Also, I apologise for the way I started the thread. The opening statement was too arrogant. That was bad diplomacy on my part. But please, by all means necessary, if anyone out there is starting a new room with constant exhaust, consider the bottom to top raised floor method. I wouldn't put it out there if it wasnt extremely effective. I'll be more informative and less arrogant from now on. I just want to see people get the maximum yield for their hard work and risk taking. I wish each and everyone of you the most success whether or not my advice is used.

Seriously if i could figure out how to install a 27' fan in the closet floor of my trailer i would. I can see how this design would effectively cool a small grow room or converted tent. My question is, What is the mechanism that drives the superior yields that you describe, other than providing a consistent environment, temp, humidity. etc... which is the goal of all sucessful grow rooms. Ok its the air blowing on the stomata (undersides of the leaves, right). Ok i follow you there. But what about c02? A normal c02 system would not work because the heavier than air c02 is supposed to cascade down on the canopy and be gently stirred by oscillating fans. Please describe how this method (not employing c02) yields greater versus a conventionally cooled and otherwise well maintened grow room maintaining 1500 ppm c02.

Eventually someone is going to show a great yield with this method. Until then I would appear biased to tout the benefits with any kind of photographic proof of supposed high gpw yields that cannot be proven to be genuine by a snapshot of a digital scale read out. I guess we' ll just have to wait for a third party to experiment and share their experience.

into a door the answer is simple ...........look ar cat doors or dog doors ...........just cut off the flap and use it as framing .........i am sure u can find a 12 inch box fan and a 12 inch dog door .......

You don't use the fan unless it is a vertical grow that is comparable to Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical. The raised floor perforations simply allow air to pass through the room from bottom to top. No fan underneath, it is simply a passive air intake diffuser. The exhaust suction is simply fed through a hole made in your grow room ceiling. It should be in the ceiling directly above the hood to get the most heat extraction. The wooden pallet that raises the floor is modified to allow air to pass through all four sides underneath the floor.

Your concept of moving exhaust air is correct ,this is how it should be done , but there is more to it then just your concept, to move air as efficient as possible, their has to be a understanding properly sizing duct and fan and add the fact of the natural flow of the air in that particular space,and you must understand how air moves (travels through space and shape, if done correctly your only enemy will be ambient temp. witch must be also controlled on those very hot days and this can be overcome also with the addition of other mechanical equipment.

the problem here is that other members are asking venting/exhaust and A/c questions to growers or store owners . just because a certain setup works for you does not mean it will work for the next guy ,and most likely your system is flawed costing you extra money and efficency as far as getting the most out of your setup. If I were setting up a room and did not have the over 30 yrs in the HVAC field , I really would go post my question related to HVAC to a HVAC board chat room .

So here are the biggest mistakes here I see this is my top ten list

1 You go way overboard with sizing fans too much CFM = basics about air did you know the faster you move air the less it cools and also raises humidity

2 Air Intake to small for the requirements of fans CFM rating. = basic opening size and duct sizing . to calculate you must understand that only so much air can be moved through a certain amounts of sq inches weather opening ,grill or duct the sq inche

I use manual D when neccessary but I sometimes undersized the duct just to have more contact time with the carbon and thereby extending the life of the filter .Peak efficiency on the outflow side of the exhaust line is a sure fire way to exhaust the carbon quite quickly. The only inefficiency in my system( when done in such a way to extend carbon life and odor removal efficacy) is on purpose albeit not being able to exhaust right through the roof ( my place doesn't afford that option).But my 11 carbon filters have been around for 5 years now and still as effective as if they were new.