Big yielded but resistant to mold

Budley Doright said:

When I hear Bud rot I think of it being caused by bud worms and works from the inside out. Where as mould typically starts on the outside in my grows, typically from humidity issues. The OP kind of confused things imo by mentioning both issues. You guys need to chill, why so angry lol.

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bud rot, a slang term for botrytis, caused by Botrytis Cinerea, is a fungus, no bugs involved, unless of course a bug brought the spores in. This fungus can affect most vegetables and fruits.

mold needs very specific conditions to thrive. A plants resistance could be a hundred things involved, but correct conditions will eliminate 100% chance of any outbreak.

"I had mold in my room even though conditions were perfect" = Bullshit

nxsov180db said:

Yes, bud rot usually does start with PM on the outside.

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Not around here lol.

Need more fans blowing over the plants. Like between the lights and the canopy. Also, you seem to be pulling a lot of air through the room with all the extraction fans. Unless it has hepa filters on the intake it must be pulling a lot of dirty air through, with mold spores and stuff. And smoking in the place can help mold grow because it condenses on everything, including the plants, walls etc, and mold eats it for food. If you smoke anywhere in the building the extraction fans probably pull it in there. Yields also suffer from smoke in the air, because it clogs the leaf pores that they breathe through. Having a hepa filter type home air purifier going is a good idea, to filter out mold spores and stuff.

a plant with excess unburned carbs is more conducive to mold growth than one with no excess. A grower could say "this one is mold resistant", when actually it might just be cared for more responsibly. A pest will find a home in low brix leaves before taking claim to a high brix leaf. Its pretty simple to keep this balance optimal.
I take my refractometer with me now to the farm stands and store. I know things now and I get better tasting food, better for me, with more nutrition inside.
its all about the brix levels, stages of maturity, proper feeding/watering. My plants in pro mix fed only with chicken shit w calcium consistently show higher brix day after day from veg to finish than I can ever get my bottle fed plants to report-for thought.
I carry this tech to my outdoor fruit/veggy gardens with a huge smile.

Professor A. F. W. Brix was a 19th Century German chemist (b.1798, d.1890). He was the first to measure the density of plant juices by floating a hydrometer in them. The winemakers of Europe were concerned that they could not predict which of various grape juices would make the best wine. Being able to judge quality ahead of actual bottling was of immense importance in an industry where a bottle of the best wine might sell for hundreds of times more than a bottle of everyday wine. Professor Brix was greeted as a great hero when he emerged from his laboratory to claim his most generous prize. He was also honored by having the measuring process named after him.

• BRIX is a measure of the percent solids (TSS) in a given weight of plant juice---nothing more---and nothing less.
• BRIX is often expressed another way: BRIX equals the percentage of sucrose. sucrose" can vary widely. For, indeed, the BRIX is actually a summation of the pounds of sucrose, fructose, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, proteins, hormones, and other solids in one hundred pounds of any particular plant juice.
• BRIX varies directly with plant QUALITY. For instance, a poor, sour tasting grape from worn out land can test 8 or less BRIX. On the other hand, a full flavored, delicious grape, grown on rich, fertile soil can test 24 or better BRIX.

sugar is only one of the components of brix. other substances can falsely indicate "brix" readings (although those readings are valid in their own right). Try rubbing alcohol, whiskey, vinegar, or wine. Interestingly, cooking oil, molasses, syrup, and other thick liquids require a refractometer calibrated to read 30-90 brix. Honey is checked with a refractometer calibrated to measure the water within it instead of the solids in the water.

chemphlegm said:

bud rot, a slang term for botrytis, caused by Botrytis Cinerea, is a fungus, no bugs involved, unless of course a bug brought the spores in. This fungus can affect most vegetables and fruits.

mold needs very specific conditions to thrive. A plants resistance could be a hundred things involved, but correct conditions will eliminate 100% chance of any outbreak.

"I had mold in my room even though conditions were perfect" = Bullshit

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Well I guess my bud rot is different from your bud rot lol. Also I have never had issues in my room but I'm far from vigilant, lucky I guess. It's the outdoor that's gets rot and if you Google corn ear worms, they're are others, this is what I get and yes we call it bud rot lol.

Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, etc, etc.....

Bottom line.

Keep RH to bellow 50. I like 40 -45
Regulate temps to hold 4-5 deg F TOTAL during lights on.
Move air.

Most of all, sanitize everything in and around the grow area! You gotta get rid of the spores you have lingering...

Anyone ever get gg4 to mold ?
Im starting to think she has a high resistance to humidty.

Budley Doright said:

Well I guess my bud rot is different from your bud rot lol. Also I have never had issues in my room but I'm far from vigilant, lucky I guess. It's the outdoor that's gets rot and if you Google corn ear worms, they're are others, this is what I get and yes we call it bud rot lol.

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the Corn Earworm feeding on kernels at the tip of the ear creates an avenue of entry for diseases, especially molds.++

nxsov180db said:

I know none of the GG4 crosses I have grown out ever molded while others did in the same tent...

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Same here