BIOBIZZ. Is this too much supplements? NOT nutrients (N,P,K)

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Biobizz was in Holland then moved to Spain.
Yeah good idea with epsom, also because of the sulfur, BB works best with hard water high in minerals.

For N-def - use Fishmix, Grow is very balanced in NPK

ActiVera - has very high iron plus other micros, surfectant (vs hydrophobic medium) & enzymes - not really necessary for soil/Allmix but recommended for coco

Algamic - contains a bit Mg + micros and some plant "hormones" that activate an immune response. No NPK though so quite safe to use 2 times a week

The Topmax contains also humics/chelating agents to increase mineral absorption

Their CalMag is rather weak 35/10 Ca & Mg so most tap will still want epsom

Don't pH down, most their products are quite acidic

Their nute scheme is very high PK but low N so makes yellow plants even at high dosage
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
I actually didnt fed any molasses or activera, just bought them today.
Only had been supplementing with kelps aka algamic.

Maybe calmag caused a nutrient lockout (since every other nutrient I started in week 3 after sprout with 25% recomende dose, 2 weeks later 33% dose and reached 50% dose on week 6-7) - my tap water is 200-240ppm and biobizz recommends a small (0.3-0.8 veg, a little more during flowering) maintenance dose.

That being said,just recently found out biobizz is from Netherlands wher water is very soft, so its made for that type of water (I mean the cal mag recomendation)

Maybe should have given not cal mag, but only epsom salts, since I never saw a calcium deficieny on leaves, only magnesium.

But who knows ehhh..

Since it shows clear N deficiency, will do one more watering with 100% Grow dose (1ml/l) and hope for the best. If leaveskep yellowing for 3-6 days after that, will do a flush, since I am assuming a decent N feeding should stop the yellowing. If not, its a lockout, right?

Also on the last watering a few days before flush, I will check runoff ppm (uauslly dont water till runoff, since peoplehave said its not needed with Biobizz, no salts there)


P.S. If the worst scenario happens and my babies die, how can I check for root rot?
With hydro its easy to see, but with soil?
What do you think those nutrients are?

Bio-Grow Ingredients
Biobizz Bio-Grow is made from 100% Dutch sugar beet extract (vinasse).

It mainly consists of molasses, which is a source of sugar, other carbohydrates, natural amino acids, betaine, Potassium (K), Nitrogen (N), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and over 70 other trace minerals.
 

kreikrei

Active Member
Biobizz was in Holland then moved to Spain.
Yeah good idea with epsom, also because of the sulfur, BB works best with hard water high in minerals.

For N-def - use Fishmix, Grow is very balanced in NPK

ActiVera - has very high iron plus other micros, surfectant (vs hydrophobic medium) & enzymes - not really necessary for soil/Allmix but recommended for coco

Algamic - contains a bit Mg + micros and some plant "hormones" that activate an immune response. No NPK though so quite safe to use 2 times a week

The Topmax contains also humics/chelating agents to increase mineral absorption

Their CalMag is rather weak 35/10 Ca & Mg so most tap will still want epsom

Don't pH down, most their products are quite acidic

Their nute scheme is very high PK but low N so makes yellow plants even at high dosage
Interesting, learn something new every day. Which is to be expected since it is my first grow.
So assuming its not a lockout and Ive just been underfeeding a very hungry plant... I should useFis mix instead of grow as my last hail mary feed of N, before flushing.

Here is the thread about Biobizz being good with soft water, not hard. I am posting a link to different forum., If it isnt allowed, please dont delete this post or banme lol, but type in google "curse of biobizz", you will get to thctalk forum.



Can I ask your time in aswering these 3 questions please?
1) How fast do N or Magnesium deficiencies (and deficiencies in general) stop effecting leaves once you fed the right amount of nutes? I am assuming the leaves will continue yellowing for a few(?) days, since it cannot be all absored at once and you are feeding the soil not the plant directly.

2) REGULAR Fish mix use is not recommended in flowering due to the possiblity of bad taste in final product.
Thus:
vegetation stage N deficiency - use fish mix (although for auto, you hav to screw something big to get an N deficiency in 4 weeks of vegatative stage, where you give only watr for first 2 lol)

flowering N deficiency - use grow or fishmix or maybe both together but diluted to 50%, so not to overfeed them?

3) If you encounter N or magnesium deficiency,how much you usually increase the dosage to fix it? And do you fix it in 1 watering and then just continue your usual nute schedule or you need several waterings of increased nutes that are deficicent?


I apologize for so many questions, but they are rather specific and I couldnt find answes using search bar or google... Especially the answers about how fast deficiencies are fixed and how much you increase the dosage to fix deficiency.

Thank you very much!

P.S I know this looks likeI am asking you to spoonfeed me like a child. Inmost cases, proper answer would be "dude, I am not your mntor and you arent paying for my time."

But I am desperate, Iknow my plants dont have much time left, since they have lost about (guessing) 10-20 % of lower leaves due to yellowing....
I try to read a bit theory every day (grow bible) and try to find answers myself.

All I can promise, that in return when the times comes that I myself am knowledagble myself, I will spend my time to help some other rookie grower who is also in a desprate situation..

Anyway, thanks guys for engaging in discussion for me and correcting me when I was wrong! I wish you happy growing!
 
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kreikrei

Active Member
What do you think those nutrients are?

Bio-Grow Ingredients
Biobizz Bio-Grow is made from 100% Dutch sugar beet extract (vinasse).

It mainly consists of molasses, which is a source of sugar, other carbohydrates, natural amino acids, betaine, Potassium (K), Nitrogen (N), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and over 70 other trace minerals.
You are right, I wasted money on molasses, but it wasnt too much, 5 usd
Being a first time groer, I am overwhelmed by so much information (often contradictory, forexample, go full et/dry cycle or keep the soil a bit moist all the time, since a bit moist is better for microorganisms if you use something like Biobizz. BUT a wet/dry might be better for agressive root growth....)
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Here is the thread about Biobizz being good with soft water, not hard. I am posting a link to different forum., If it isnt allowed, please dont delete this post or banme lol, but type in google "curse of biobizz", you will get to thctalk forum.
Forget it, it's about BB nutes in pure compost as a medium, and the writer suggested not using BB at all.

BB soil is peat-based (50-80%). It's acidic and BB soil contain only little calcitic etc but lots of ammonia, organic breakdown, cannabis root exsudates and the fert itself will take the pH gradually down.

For starters officual info:

) How fast do N or Magnesium deficiencies (and deficiencies in general) stop effecting leaves once you fed the right amount of nutes? I am assuming the leaves will continue yellowing for a few(?) days, since it cannot be all absored at once and you are feeding the soil not the plant directly.
N-def corrects fast, within 2 days leaves are green again given the plant doesn't discard it and is having no combination of deficiencies
Mg can be given with foliar epsom also quickly

2) REGULAR Fish mix use is not recommended in flowering due to the possiblity of bad taste in final product.
Well, if you pour it over the buds... :lol:


Thus:
vegetation stage N deficiency - use fish mix (although for auto, you hav to screw something big to get an N deficiency in 4 weeks of vegatative stage, where you give only watr for first 2 lol)

flowering N deficiency - use grow or fishmix or maybe both together but diluted to 50%, so not to overfeed them?
extend veg-scheme during the stretch and start their bloom once you see flowers actually forming

3) If you encounter N or magnesium deficiency,how much you usually increase the dosage to fix it? And do you fix it in 1 watering and then just continue your usual nute schedule or you need several waterings of increased nutes that are deficicent?
sometimes a deficiency is an overfeeding, lockout, pH mismatch, or environmental problems or bad watering habits. So it's not so easy to just do 200% or 225% and think all problems just terminate.
I'd say getting experience with what works for you helps best :D

But I am desperate, Iknow my plants dont have much time left, since they have lost about (guessing) 10-20 % of lower leaves due to yellowing....
how do they look? you picked Automatiks for a firstgrow?
 

kreikrei

Active Member
Forget it, it's about BB nutes in pure compost as a medium, and the writer suggested not using BB at all.

BB soil is peat-based (50-80%). It's acidic and BB soil contain only little calcitic etc but lots of ammonia, organic breakdown, cannabis root exsudates and the fert itself will take the pH gradually down.

For starters officual info:


N-def corrects fast, within 2 days leaves are green again given the plant doesn't discard it and is having no combination of deficiencies
Mg can be given with foliar epsom also quickly


Well, if you pour it over the buds... :lol:



extend veg-scheme during the stretch and start their bloom once you see flowers actually forming


sometimes a deficiency is an overfeeding, lockout, pH mismatch, or environmental problems or bad watering habits. So it's not so easy to just do 200% or 225% and think all problems just terminate.
I'd say getting experience with what works for you helps best :D


how do they look? you picked Automatiks for a firstgrow?
You highlighted relevant text and answered to those parts - end result looks easy on the eye. I have to learn how to do that.
I picked autos for these reasons:
1 - Faster result (maybe not in my case haha)
2 -More easily controlllable environment. I leav ligths on 24/7. So no worries about humidity spikes during lights off with photos. Dont want to buy a dehumidifier (extra heat and no A/C in my house) or increase my ac infinity s6 speed to higher than 2, since my tent is 4 metres from my bed, want it to keep quiet. My ventilation is 4 low sound pc fans.
3 - wanted to grow more plants in my space, since autos are smaller. I though - ok, I may screw 1 or 2 plants, but at least 1 may survive. Now all 3 have the same symtoms :D

a) Ok, so Biobizz/England/hard water point is moot.
b) Epsom foliar spray - always wondered how much people spray, because the dosage is given something like tablespoon (?) for a gallon (Us gallon or EU gallon lol?) Just a few squirts on every leaf? Maybe Ill go the easy route and add it to nutes, because my MAG deficieny is very small
c) From what I read about fish mix during these last few hours - I think I will go with fish mix for the whole growth instead of GROW. I know its a bit higher in Nitrogen, but it has othe rpositive properties GROW doesnt have.

d) I dont think it is overfeeding (I water every 3 days, never reached more than 33% of recomended BB dosages,this may have caused my N deficiency)
I MAY have given more calcium than needed (tap water, which is 240 ppm + cal mag), thus locking out magnesium, hopefully not.
It MAY be bad watering habits. Peat moss becomes hydrophobic relatively fast and I may have given too little water in starting weeks out of fear of overwatering (oh, the irony)
Environment is Ok - temp and humidity in norm, since light are on all the time, its about 26 celsius and 45 -50% humidity.

I test water phbefore every feed and with nutes is usually 6.7-7 ph, ppm are also decent - I mean ppm going in , havent checked runoff or did a slurry test.

I would love to show a pic (It is day 41, but my strain Think Different sativa is a long one for auto) , but basically I am in flower (pistils and everything) for 2 weeks, but no real buds showing and smell is weak. The flowering has more or less stopped - I assume due to stress caused by deficiencies. Lower leaves are more or less gone (imagine a dog with compltly shaven legs and thighs, Ill call it FIM defoliation) I am guessing somewhere about 15% from total volume, but the N deficiency is slowly moving upwards. ALso a barely visible MAgnesium def, but Ill fix that with epsoms, which will arrive in 3 days.

My plan.:
1) Tomorrow I water with Fish mix ( similar to grow, recommended dosage is 1ml/l, I think I`ll try 1.3ml/l), algamic, activera and a small dose of bloom (probably 1ml/l). Tomorrow is watering day anyway, since pots will be dry.
2) Wait 3-4 days, check if any new leaves get N deficiency.
3) If N def progresses, I do a flush probably (I will also have to flush my underpants as well, since it will be my first flush). Ill probably add some h202 to my flush, not too much to kill the microbial life, but enough to help oygenate the roots? Thats a tip I have read in sveral places.
4) After flush wait to dry and restart with nutes probbaly at 33-50% dosage. (I am following the biobizz recomendation: If you use light mix and grow autos, use the schedule of ALL mix. But Ill adjust accordingly, better to underfeed than overfeed)


HOW DID YOU LEARN ALL OF THIS? :D :D

Books, exprience, forums? All of the above?

You are amazing. You gave me so much answers to questions I never knew I had haha.
I never expected such a great community, but in every thread I have made, someone has spent their valuable time and been patient with me. Thank you very much. Even if this grow fails, I already have identified some mistakes I made, which I wont make next time.

Thank you again!

P.S.I have asked so manhy questions that my profile willl become like a library for me. Whenevr in doubt, will dig through my topics and there will be answers to any question I may have :D


P.P.S I am not expecting you to answer any more question ,for me you are already forum member of the month haha - but a short one. (Quoting Wayne Gretzky - you miss 100% of the shotds you never make)

Wet/dry cycle for biobizz soil or constantly moist? :D
 
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OM2

Member
My friend, i ran into a problem that sounds EXACTLY like yours.
Biobizz Light Mix with all their nutes on autoflowers. I have hard water with PPM 450.
It was all going well and didn't need any food until week 5-6. I was only using a little bit of all the supplements. But when she started flowering all the leaves got yellow and brown, and it was a big deficiency in potassium, also magnesium. I didn't have Epsom at hand, so i tried to quickly remedy by adding CalMag because it has some magnesium, but that was a mistake, it only got worse. All those supplements increased the calcium uptake, my hard water has calcium and i added Calmag, so i caused a calcium toxicity which locked the magnesium and potassium uptake.

It all got better when i flushed the soil with a lot of ph'd water and some BioBloom. Leaves are still fcked up but at least it stopped progressing further and the buds are growing.
I think the best results would be to use only Root Juice in the veg stage, and when she starts flowering use BioGrow and BioBloom together. No supplements at all. I think even Topmax contains minerals but i'm not sure, and i'm hesitant to use it further. I'll never again use any supplements.

Also, don't pluck out any leaves. Let them be until they go fully yellow and brown. Let the plant still take food from those leaves, so it doesn't start eating new greener leaves.

And i also burned my plants with Fish Mix, i used a quarter dose and it messed up my leaves. I tried just BioGrow and it was less burn, but it still burned the leaves. I don't know, maybe my nutes expired. I had a 2 year old bottle of Activera that smelled like alcohol so i stopped using it. BioGrow also smells a bit sour and rancid. BioBizz is a good organic nutrient but it's even ''too organic'' because they expire so quickly. I will never use another BB bottle if it's older than 1 year.

Here's how to check the production date: https://www.hydrostork.com/biobizz-products-expiration-date/
 
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kreikrei

Active Member
My friend, i ran into a problem that sounds EXACTLY like yours.
Biobizz Light Mix with all their nutes on autoflowers. I have hard water with PPM 450.
It was all going well and didn't need any food until week 5-6. I was only using a little bit of all the supplements. But when she started flowering all the leaves got yellow and brown, and it was a big deficiency in potassium, also magnesium. I didn't have Epsom at hand, so i tried to quickly remedy by adding CalMag because it has some magnesium, but that was a mistake, it only got worse. All those supplements increased the calcium uptake, my hard water has calcium and i added Calmag, so i caused a calcium toxicity which locked the magnesium and potassium uptake.

It all got better when i flushed the soil with a lot of ph'd water and some BioBloom. Leaves are still fcked up but at least it stopped progressing further and the buds are growing.
I think the best results would be to use only Root Juice in the veg stage, and when she starts flowering use BioGrow and BioBloom together. No supplements at all. I think even Topmax contains minerals but i'm not sure, and i'm hesitant to use it further. I'll never again use any supplements.

Also, don't pluck out any leaves. Let them be until they go fully yellow and brown. Let the plant still take food from those leaves, so it doesn't start eating new greener leaves.

And i also burned my plants with Fish Mix, i used a quarter dose and it messed up my leaves. I tried just BioGrow and it was less burn, but it still burned the leaves. I don't know, maybe my nutes expired. I had a 2 year old bottle of Activera that smelled like alcohol so i stopped using it. BioGrow also smells a bit sour and rancid. BioBizz is a good organic nutrient but it's even ''too organic'' because they expire so quickly. I will never use another BB bottle if it's older than 1 year.
Good to hear that other people have faced the same misery I am facing. Makes my pain more tolerable :D :D

Yup, I have heard about the expiration thing, keeping my nutes in fridge :D

Did you add bloom on the last portion of the flush , the first portion or all of th water that you used for flushing wa sinfused with a bit of bloom?
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
3) If N def progresses, I do a flush probably (I will also have to flush my underpants as well, since it will be my first flush). Ill probably add some h202 to my flush, not too much to kill the microbial life, but enough to help oygenate the roots? Thats a tip I have read in sveral places.
yikes, you will kill beneficial MO's and leech nutrients from the soil, with BB I don't even drain
30% of their advise on BB Grow/Bloom sounds like a def yeah
Feed like something 2.0 EC, it will increase during the next 2-3 days

Wet/dry cycle for biobizz soil
allow drybacks but later once plant is much larger as the pot you can water sooner
HOW DID YOU LEARN ALL OF THIS? :D :D

Books, exprience, forums? All of the above?

You are amazing. You gave me so much answers to questions I never knew I had haha.
I never expected such a great community, but in every thread I have made, someone has spent their valuable time and been patient with me. Thank you very much. Even if this grow fails, I already have identified some mistakes I made, which I wont make next time.

Thank you again!
it's famous at another place, the problems with it are known
 

kreikrei

Active Member
yikes, you will kill beneficial MO's and leech nutrients from the soil, with BB I don't even drain
30% of their advise on BB Grow/Bloom sounds like a def yeah
Feed like something 2.0 EC, it will increase during the next 2-3 days


allow drybacks but later once plant is much larger as the pot you can water sooner

it's famous at another place, the problems with it are known
yikes, you will kill beneficial MO's and leech nutrients from the soil, with BB I don't even drain
30% of their advise on BB Grow/Bloom sounds like a def yeah
Feed like something 2.0 EC, it will increase during the next 2-3 days


allow drybacks but later once plant is much larger as the pot you can water sooner

it's famous at another place, the problems with it are known
I may borrow a phone today, will post pictures today. Dont know what camera it has thoug.
Ok, so wont aadd ho2o. Its risky for the microorganisms and no need to overreact. I most likely have a nute lockout, not root rot.
 

kreikrei

Active Member
Light mix is quite light in nutes. You are giving less nutes than they recommend. Whether you should use the full strength or not is debatable, but if you are having deficiencies it could be the reason.

I thought - if I make mistakes on my first grow , I rather do less than more aka better to underwater than overwater and underfeed than overfeed.
That beingsaid - when I did my firt fullwatering on week 4,I added 1/4 of nute recommended by Biobizz and got a small nute burn,,,
 

Horselover fat

Well-Known Member
I thought - if I make mistakes on my first grow , I rather do less than more aka better to underwater than overwater and underfeed than overfeed.
That beingsaid - when I did my firt fullwatering on week 4,I added 1/4 of nute recommended by Biobizz and got a small nute burn,,,
Definitely the right choice. Overfert is much worse than under feeding. Biobizz nutes shouldn't end up in nute burn that easily though.
 

kreikrei

Active Member
Definitely the right choice. Overfert is much worse than under feeding. Biobizz nutes shouldn't end up in nute burn that easily though.
Are there any microbes besides Biobizz that I can buy?
Id liketo keep a bottle in case of emergencies - but they are a bit expensive and I have other priorities, like a new phone :D

They dont seem to be a "must buy" product, but after flushes due to nute lockout, they may be valuable
 

Horselover fat

Well-Known Member
Nah, not needed. The base nutes will do. I did feel like top max does things and when I grew in soil I did use it in most grows. I used all mix and similar heavily nuted soils so ymmv.
 

kreikrei

Active Member
@Kassiopeija
@Horselover fat
@Lenin1917
@coreywebster

Tagging you guys, since have nothing to lose lol. If my post needs more information, please tell me.

Day 41 from sprouting. PPM going in was never above remoended range for vegetation, early flowering. Dont know about ppm coming out, since I usually water until only a few drops start coming from bottom (not the sides, bevcause for airpots water sometimes comes from sides, i dont count that)


Should I giv them one last Hail Mary watering? (As you said, around 2 EC. Ill add 1-1.3ml/l fish mix, 1ml/l bloom, some algamic and activera for nutrient absorption.
Or go flush straight away?

I ve been feed/water/feed/water schedule. Water feed is when I add some algamic or, sometimes calmag. So its usually never only water.

Nutes from light mix chart.

may 29th - calmag (0.5ml/l) + algamic (1ml/l)
1st June - 1/3 rd of recomennded doses - grow 1ml/l, bloom 0.8-1ml/l, algamic 2ml/l
4th June - calmag 0.5ml/l, algamic 2ml/l
7th June - - 1 m/l grow, 1 ml/l bloom, 2 ml/l algamic, 0.5 ml/l calmag

2 weeks ago I was watering about 1.25-1.5 liters per big bot and 0.8-1 liter for small pot. But slowly increasing water amount.
Last watering - 2.25 litres for big pots and 1.5 for small pot.

Leaves started yellowing on approximately June 1st. I have taken off the leaves that were barely hanging on.
Last days bottom leaves have started drooping. (for 2 plants of 3 ) One of sativas strecthed a lot, dunno why, environment was the same for both.


2 plants are sativas - think different (in 20l pots) They have yellowing bottom/middle leaves and lower leaves droop.
1 is indica (the small 11 litre pot, it started showing deficienciesfirst). It has yellowing leaves and some top leaves curling up
ALL plants have had yellow tips from week 4 - I suppose from nute burn? But I only added 1/4 of biobizz recomennded dose..
I also see some mag deficiency.

P.S. My friend said that both sativas are too strecthed and they will give only popcorn buds. Does it look like it?
 

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Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Your plants are showing multiple deficiencies and "the burned tips" are one, too. You need to drastically increase BB Grow and also add Fish - I'd give both to double on the NPK. Keep Bloom low (1ml/l) as I don't see P-def but N, K, Mg, S is there.

You need to water properly allow dryback until pot is very light then saturate fully with, at least, 1/3rd of pot volume.

Also if you can measure drain pH you should be around 6.3-6.8. I suggest next time you water you drain more 30% to get rid of some of the old solution and replace with a fresh and strong feed solution with in-EC min. 2.0. Don't worry I had drain EC with BB up to 8mS, not all of that is plant food.

Next time you're way better off with Allmix as it has way more nutes & EWC for bacteria benes. Your def is far advanced it will loose leaves and that should've been corrected way earlier.

Add 1gr per gallon epsom to your tap. Keep the stimulants low 0.5-1ml/l but add them with each watering to always feed the same.

How much light do you give them? I'd like to know more about the conditions of your growspace, footprint, lamppower, temperature.

The pots the peat it will be incredibly light when dried back
 

kreikrei

Active Member
Your plants are showing multiple deficiencies and "the burned tips" are one, too. You need to drastically increase BB Grow and also add Fish - I'd give both to double on the NPK. Keep Bloom low (1ml/l) as I don't see P-def but N, K, Mg, S is there.

You need to water properly allow dryback until pot is very light then saturate fully with, at least, 1/3rd of pot volume.

Also if you can measure drain pH you should be around 6.3-6.8. I suggest next time you water you drain more 30% to get rid of some of the old solution and replace with a fresh and strong feed solution with in-EC min. 2.0. Don't worry I had drain EC with BB up to 8mS, not all of that is plant food.

Next time you're way better off with Allmix as it has way more nutes & EWC for bacteria benes. Your def is far advanced it will loose leaves and that should've been corrected way earlier.

Add 1gr per gallon epsom to your tap. Keep the stimulants low 0.5-1ml/l but add them with each watering to always feed the same.

How much light do you give them? I'd like to know more about the conditions of your growspace, footprint, lamppower, temperature.

The pots the peat it will be incredibly light when dried back
Thanks for replying.

1) I get about 100ml runoff after 2.25 litres of watering. 30% volume is 6-7 litres. Wont they just runoff every time I try to pour it back in?
2)" -You need to water properly allow dryback until pot is very light then saturate fully with, at least, 1/3rd of pot volume."

Didnt quite get you. My next action should be a normal 2.25-2.5 litre watering and after that (when it dries out) I do another watering but with 30% volume? Refer back to what I said in nr1. - I get runoff already at 2.25-2.5 litres.... maybe parts of soil are hydrophobic?

Also -what about nute concentration in that 30% of volume watering?


3) If BB recommends 1ml/l grow/fish mix. You recommend to mix both for my net watering? 50/50?

4) I give them about 50-70k lux now. Temps are 26-28 celsius, humidity was 65% during veg, now it is about 45-50%
2 lamps - 1 kingbrite 240w with cre red, other Mars hydro ts 1000 150w. Somewhere around 60-70% intensity, 30-35cm from top colas
 
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Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
1) I get about 100ml runoff after 2.25 litres of watering. 30% volume is 6-7 litres. Wont they just runoff every time I try to pour it back in?
2)" -You need to water properly allow dryback until pot is very light then saturate fully with, at least, 1/3rd of pot volume."

Didnt quite get you. My next action should be a normal 2.25-2.5 litre watering and after that (when it dries out) I do another watering but with 30% volume? Refer backto what I said in nr1. - I get runoff already at 2.25-2.5 litres....
I'm sorry but your pot is ~20l and you already got drain after 2.5l? Then you either water way too early or medium is hydrophobic and needs slower watering or the dunk...

I can almost put 2l into my 3.5l pouches if really dried back

4) I give them about 50-70k lux now. Temps are 26-28 celsius, humidity was 65% during veg, now it is about 45-50%
2 lamps - 1 kingbrite 240w with cre red, other Mars hydro ts 1000 150w. Somewhere around 60-70% intensity, 30-35cm from top colas
how big is your growspace? a closed tent that is?
 

kreikrei

Active Member
I'm sorry but your pot is ~20l and you already got drain after 2.5l? Then you either water way too early or medium is hydrophobic and needs slower watering or the dunk...

I can almost put 2l into my 3.5l pouches if really dried back


how big is your growspace? a closed tent that is?
tent is 3x3x6 feet, ventilation is ok. Ac infinity s6 and 4 small pc fans. Passive air intake.


1) What is th purpose of the 30% volume soak?

Ok, so Ill water today with about 3-4 litres each big pot and 2-3 litres small pot.Will do it VERY slowly,with a sprayer and in several rounds, let it soak in for a few minuts between each round. Ill put fish mix and grow in 50/50 proprotions. Also add 1ml/l bloom and a little bit of activera and algamic

If the runoff for 3-4 litre watering is huge, it means its hydrophobic right? Then I will stop watering when it stops soaking up and goes straight to runoff and soak the bottom 1/3rd. Seems ok?

P.S. Send me your venmo or paypal haha :D

P.P.S Someon gave me this tip "
Best thing to do in this scenario is water with 2L then wait 30-40 mins and do it again. Feel
How heavy the pot is? Then continue to water with 4l every 3-4 days since it’s a smaller sized plant and it’s lost a fair few leaves which slows down a plants need for water drastically.

Another tip is add a product with a surfactant in it. Using a BBQ skewer u can put 10-15 holes to help it absorb too. "
 
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