Black, brown spots, tips curling. Need help please.

So this guy's topic is about what again?

Kronic BackPain said:

When I first noticed this happening I stop feeding nutes.

About 2 days ago I flushed and it got worst.

This has happen with my last 3 grows.

Not sure what week or day it is into flowering. I thought I would be able to remember, but.

I would like to know what is causing this and how to stop and prevent this from happening again.

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its hard to give advice with out knowing all your conditions. What kind of nutes are you using? how often? what kind of medium are you using? what is your ph, what is the ph of your run off? what is the ppm, what is the ppm in your runoff. I dont see any signs of heat stress, or transpiration issues. Looks like a deficiency rather than a toxicity. but could be a deficiency due to toxicity. Yea can be confusing. Dont let it be. Check your run off, is the ppm way higher than what you put in? more than likely. If your ph isnt correct your plants wont take in what nutes they need. You can give your plants all the nutes they need, but wont take in any if they are locked out due to ph or salinity levels. Fungal attacks usually start where there is dead plant matter. Thats where you need to start.

With that said, looks to me as if you have a phosphorus def( yea yea they dont need all that phosphorus, and I agree, but they need some) coupled with a potassium deficiency, along with iron and zinc def.
Reasoning- phosphrus toxicity interferes with calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and manifests itself as a deficiency of those said nutrients.Starting with redish petiole and main veins. later stages of P def. make the leaves develop large purplish black dead blotches, later becoming bronzish purple that contort and shrivel up.
Potassium starved plants show similar signs, with burnt red tips. same as zinc.
although the contorting could be from iron. all from grow books. So any of these factors could directly come from nute lock out.
They look a bit too damage to recover fully but that is where to start.
So check your ph and ppm runoff to correct your problems in the future.
you said you had flushed already, was your ph correct?Water again and check ppm runoff.If its high again, flush again. Using a product like flora kleen or clearex<---much better, to clear your salts from the medium. Hope this helps, and look at peoples albums and threads to determine if they know wtf they are talking about. If their plants look like shit... then dont listen.

dangledo said:

its hard to give advice with out knowing all your conditions. What kind of nutes are you using? how often? what kind of medium are you using? what is your ph, what is the ph of your run off? what is the ppm, what is the ppm in your runoff. I dont see any signs of heat stress, or transpiration issues. Looks like a deficiency rather than a toxicity. but could be a deficiency due to toxicity. Yea can be confusing. Dont let it be. Check your run off, is the ppm way higher than what you put in? more than likely. If your ph isnt correct your plants wont take in what nutes they need. You can give your plants all the nutes they need, but wont take in any if they are locked out due to ph or salinity levels. Fungal attacks usually start where there is dead plant matter. Thats where you need to start.

With that said, looks to me as if you have a phosphorus def( yea yea they dont need all that phosphorus, and I agree, but they need some) coupled with a potassium deficiency, along with iron and zinc def.
Reasoning- phosphrus toxicity interferes with calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and manifests itself as a deficiency of those said nutrients.Starting with redish petiole and main veins. later stages of P def. make the leaves develop large purplish black dead blotches, later becoming bronzish purple that contort and shrivel up.
Potassium starved plants show similar signs, with burnt red tips. same as zinc.
although the contorting could be from iron. all from grow books. So any of these factors could directly come from nute lock out.
They look a bit too damage to recover fully but that is where to start.
So check your ph and ppm runoff to correct your problems in the future.
you said you had flushed already, was your ph correct?Water again and check ppm runoff.If its high again, flush again. Using a product like flora kleen or clearex<---much better, to clear your salts from the medium. Hope this helps, and look at peoples albums and threads to determine if they know wtf they are talking about. If their plants look like shit... then dont listen.

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I want to let everyone know my girl seems to be doing great. Some leaf burn but everything else looks good. It seems to stop taking over the plant.

Thanks dangledo,

Some of your condition questions were answered in previous post. Not meaning that in a mean way at all. I plan to maybe flush one more time, but things seem fine now. I'll take some more readings then.

This is what it seem to be leading too. I did the same thing on the last grows. The only thing that was not change is how I was feeding.

So pretty much this is what I believe is happening...

My last grow(s) I didn't use Foxfarm. I made my own mixed soil, pea pebbles, peat moss and vermiculite.

So after a couple weeks the plants would start to shows signs of Mg deficiency and/or nute deficiency. Then I would start nutes, but was over doing. Which then caused the same thing I'm seeing now.

So this grow I'm using Foxfarm which is good on nutes for about a month.
Then what happens is after the nutes are used up. The lower leave start to discolor, turn crispy and die... I think this is when my Mg/nute deficiency starts.

Then they go on 12/12. Right about when the nutes are used up. So I start added some bloom nutes and everything is fine for a couple weeks.

Problems seem to come within a few weeks of nute feeding. Seems by the thrid feeding is when all this starts.

Over P, Mg defeneciy and pH changing from the build up. I'm assuming the start of lock out. This seems to be when mutli symptoms start and just confuse my and anyone else that looks at them.

I just need to lay off the nutes. I'm a noob and worry about everything little detail.

Sticking with KISS and less nutes now.

Friend gave me some Jacks 20-20-20. He has been using during both cycles. I plan on using this for future grow. I don't plan on using nutes again on this plant though.

And can anyone with some experince guess how much longer I might have before harvest? I can post some more pics. About 25% to 50% hairs are redish.

Edit. That https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/158144-never-ending-abuse-phosphorous-bloom.html post pretty much sums it up.

Kriegs said:

Not a typo; you're just wrong.

Check this, from someone who knows and has been at this forever:

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/158144-never-ending-abuse-phosphorous-bloom-19.html

The "six weeks" reflects 2 weeks to really get the plant in flowering mode, and four weeks to complete stretch. That's 6 weeks of heavy veg growth that can't be supported by a bloom food.

Good thought on the fungus, though.. may very well be the case, and consistent with the successive grow failures (MJ will usually beat the "bloom food hex" on its own).

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at six weeks shouldn't you be flushing????

SatansGift said:

All the times I did gorilla outdoor grows I saw my plants get the same fade that they do indoors. The main reason people cut out the nutes and want the fade, is to improve the taste. A properly flushed plant that has faded will have a much cleaner smoke than a plant that is still vibrant green with stored nutes in the leaves and chlorophyll still present. And yes I have tested that theory on my last run with Chernobyl clones. Both clones came from the same mother plant and one began it's flush at day 42 and was harvested day 63 and the other was fed nutes throughout till day 56 and was flushed till around day 67-70. The one that began the flush at day 42 had a nice maroon fade while the other stayed green. The green one was top notch smoke but the lime fuely flavor was only in the first two hits off the bubbler, while the one allowed to fade had a crisp clean lime flavor until there was nothing but ash in the same bubbler. Also I found it to be less lung expansive when properly flushed, while the one allowed to stay green made ya choke.

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Only if you overfeed them late in the cycle. My smoke is smooth as any. But it is also properly dried and cured before being smoked. And it gets flushed with 7-10 days to go.

I have this impacting my (current and past) grow(s) as well. Like you, I'm using FoxFarm soil (Ocean Forest). Everything is perfect in veg w/o any nutes.. just ph'd water. Things go well for the first 4-5 weeks of flower but then I get the brown spots like you on the top leaves. On my current grow, it hit one plant especially hard, but the other two are either fine or not nearly as bad. I don't get it. I'm using the full FoxFarm nutrient line and following the schedule. Water + nute mixture is ph'd to 6.5 every time. I also use CalMagPlus. The only thing I can think of at this point is that maybe it's a fungus (called Rust) or the ultra-low humidity here is messing with them. Got some neem oil in case it's a fungus and am considering a humidifier to eliminate that as a potential cause. Really frustrating.