Blackskull Pepperjack Haze 16 week DWC SCROG

Richard4vt

Active Member
Looking great Richard! I will say DO NOT USE MOLASSES IN A WATERFARM.

I have found that adding molasses to a Waterfarm system results in massive bacterial growth in the system, and a resulting destructive shift in pH... It will kill your plants! Molasses is a SOIL supplement only IMHO. I almost completely destroyed my current grow (only my 2nd) when I switched to flower and began the addition of 1 Tbs/gallon blackstrap molasses... 2 days later the plant was drooping and dying, and the pH was all jacked up. I seriously thought that all hope was lost... When I drained the Waterfarm, the fluid was very murky/cloudy, and I had to flush intensively to revive the plant. Fortunately, she recovered, but I did lose 2 of the major branches off the main stem... probably about 1/3 of my yield...
Well shit... thats good to know. I had read very mixed things about molasses in hydro but I couldn't find any waterfarm specific advice on that. I don't start using molasses till the 2nd or 3rd week of flower anyways so all is well. Thank you for the heads up, I appreciate it. Sorry to hear that you had to learn the hard way
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Hello all,

So in addition to the 400 watt HPS/MH cooltube that I ordered, I also went ahead and ordered some other goodies that should have me running a pretty solid setup...

1) A grow tent....2'd x 4'w x5'h....comes pre-lined with mylar and has light proof intake and outtake vents

2) Carbon filter with a pre-filter.....rated for 440 CFM

3) Centrifugal Inline Duct fan rated for 400 CFM

4) A digital TDS/PPM meter

5) General Hydroponics Floranova grow and bloom nutrients, which I will be using to finish the grow...I hear they are easier to use and better than the flora series, plus they are organic...and on top of that the tiny bottles of flora series nutes that came with the waterfarm aren't gonna last for the whole grow.

Everything should be here by Tuesday or Wednesday....the 400 watt light is here but without the grow tent and duct fan I can't use it yet.

I'll post pictures this week once my setup is complete.

-PEACE-
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
:mrgreen:Hello all,

So my baby girl is officially 5 weeks old today so that means one or two more weeks of veg and then the flip, and by the rate this plant is going it looks like one more week should be all I need to fill the screen...the growth has been explosive over the last week and she sucked up nearly 4 gallons of water this week!

Here is the picture from a week ago today first and today second...wow!:hump:
DSC00325.jpg
DSC00338.jpg

I really wish I could take a look at the roots but its not possible anymore now that the screen is in place.

I will post more pictures later this week when all of my new supplies come in and I can get my real set up running...I can hardly wait.

enjoy...

DSC00336.jpgDSC00340.jpgDSC00341.jpg

:peace:-PEACE-:peace:
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
If you're trying to keep temps down insulate your waterfarm with some reflective pipe insulation. It'll help it stay nice and cool, which means more dissolved oxygen for your roots.
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
If you're trying to keep temps down insulate your waterfarm with some reflective pipe insulation. It'll help it stay nice and cool, which means more dissolved oxygen for your roots.
Yeah I originally was going to look around for ways to cool my waterfarm, but decided to just break down and buy a tent and run a cooltube so that I won't even have to worry about the reservoir getting too hot. I may still go ahead and take your advice on this one though, cuz I mean honestly...it couldn't hurt to keep to res temps as cool as possible
 

lostNug

Well-Known Member
lookin great man. look into using a CMH (hps + mh in one) instead of MH bulb. much better

im gna be scrogin my next grow for sure. check out my CMH grow. links in the signature

cant believe u said neem oil smells good. i cant stand the smell. i use it anyways though. along with spinosad (moterey garden spray) for thrips cuz neem doesnt cut it
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Hello all,

So everything I ordered except the digital TDS meter arrived last night....so much loot. Now I just have to find the time to get it all set up and running. I've got a pretty busy schedule this week so it might be tough but I'll try to have pictures of the complete set up posted by this evening....but we'll see how that works out.

:peace:-PEACE-:peace:
 

AWnox

Active Member
lookin great man. look into using a CMH (hps + mh in one) instead of MH bulb. much better

im gna be scrogin my next grow for sure. check out my CMH grow. links in the signature

cant believe u said neem oil smells good. i cant stand the smell. i use it anyways though. along with spinosad (moterey garden spray) for thrips cuz neem doesnt cut it
Isn't a CMH a Ceramic Metal Halide bulb? or is it really both mh and hps in one? Confused....
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Isn't a CMH a Ceramic Metal Halide bulb? or is it really both mh and hps in one? Confused....
Yes CMH is ceramic metal halide...I just thought CMH was a better form of MH

found this on Wikipedia

Ceramic discharge metal-halide lamp

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The ceramic discharge metal-halide (CDM) lamp, mostly referred to as Ceramic Metal Halide lamp (CMH), is a relatively new source of light that is a variation of the old (high-pressure) mercury-vapour lamp. The discharge is contained in a ceramic tube. During operation, the temperature of this ceramic tube can exceed 1200 kelvins. The ceramic tube is filled with mercury, argon and metal-halide salts. Because of the high wall temperature, the metal halide salts are partly vaporized. Inside the hot plasma, these salts are dissociated into metallic atoms and iodine.
The metallic atoms are the main source of light in these lamps, creating a bluish light that is close to daylight with a CRI (color rendering index) of up to 96. The exact correlated color temperature and CRI depend on the specific mixture of metal halide salts. There are also warm-white CDM lamps, with somewhat lower CRI (78-82) which still give a more clear and natural-looking light than the old mercury-vapour and sodium-vapour lamps when used as street lights, besides being more economical to use.


....doesn't say anything about Sodium being used in the CMH so I don't see how it could be a combo of HPS and MH...but it does sound like some epic vegging light.
 

AWnox

Active Member
Yes CMH is ceramic metal halide...I just thought CMH was a better form of MH

found this on Wikipedia

Ceramic discharge metal-halide lamp

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The ceramic discharge metal-halide (CDM) lamp, mostly referred to as Ceramic Metal Halide lamp (CMH), is a relatively new source of light that is a variation of the old (high-pressure) mercury-vapour lamp. The discharge is contained in a ceramic tube. During operation, the temperature of this ceramic tube can exceed 1200 kelvins. The ceramic tube is filled with mercury, argon and metal-halide salts. Because of the high wall temperature, the metal halide salts are partly vaporized. Inside the hot plasma, these salts are dissociated into metallic atoms and iodine.
The metallic atoms are the main source of light in these lamps, creating a bluish light that is close to daylight with a CRI (color rendering index) of up to 96. The exact correlated color temperature and CRI depend on the specific mixture of metal halide salts. There are also warm-white CDM lamps, with somewhat lower CRI (78-82) which still give a more clear and natural-looking light than the old mercury-vapour and sodium-vapour lamps when used as street lights, besides being more economical to use.


....doesn't say anything about Sodium being used in the CMH so I don't see how it could be a combo of HPS and MH...but it does sound like some epic vegging light.
I believe a CMH is only used as a replacement for the regular MH only with less temperature output; according to other grow journals I've been reading here at RIU. IF anyone has any more specific info please share, but I think you will still need a HPS for flowering.
 

AWnox

Active Member
Yes CMH is ceramic metal halide...I just thought CMH was a better form of MH

found this on Wikipedia

Ceramic discharge metal-halide lamp

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The ceramic discharge metal-halide (CDM) lamp, mostly referred to as Ceramic Metal Halide lamp (CMH), is a relatively new source of light that is a variation of the old (high-pressure) mercury-vapour lamp. The discharge is contained in a ceramic tube. During operation, the temperature of this ceramic tube can exceed 1200 kelvins. The ceramic tube is filled with mercury, argon and metal-halide salts. Because of the high wall temperature, the metal halide salts are partly vaporized. Inside the hot plasma, these salts are dissociated into metallic atoms and iodine.
The metallic atoms are the main source of light in these lamps, creating a bluish light that is close to daylight with a CRI (color rendering index) of up to 96. The exact correlated color temperature and CRI depend on the specific mixture of metal halide salts. There are also warm-white CDM lamps, with somewhat lower CRI (78-82) which still give a more clear and natural-looking light than the old mercury-vapour and sodium-vapour lamps when used as street lights, besides being more economical to use.


....doesn't say anything about Sodium being used in the CMH so I don't see how it could be a combo of HPS and MH...but it does sound like some epic vegging light.
I believe a CMH is only used as a replacement for the regular MH only with less temperature output; according to other grow journals I've been reading here at RIU. IF anyone has any more specific info please share, but I think you will still need a HPS for flowering.
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Hello All,

Sorry for the very long gap between my last post and this one, I ran into a pretty big issue and for safety reasons had to cut the plant out of its screen and move the entire grow op to a friends house, where it will be flowering... won't go into details but it was a sketchy week. I unfortunately had to keep the plant in the dark for almost 48 hours until I got the tent set up, but I checked today for any signs of a hermie and everything looks great.. and it has now been in its final resting spot for 3 days under 12/12...so 9 weeks left to go!!:mrgreen:

This plant is absolutely enormous, and must have at least 70 bud sites. It now fills the entire screen and is lush and green. Unfortunately a few of the leaves wilted during the 48 hours of darkness but they were mostly larger lower fan leaves which I would have trimmed off today anyways. I don't have a camera at the new grow location so no pics till I go back in a couple days to check up. Preflowers everywhere and the smell is pretty strong inside the tent, but with the carbon filter running the room doesn't smell a bit. Everything is looking good.

The biggest issue was trying to rescrog the plant after it was left to grow normally for almost a week before I could rescrog. I was unable to actually scrog the plant again so I basically did a half scrog half LST job to get the plant back down in height. Overall the plant is now about 3 inches taller than it was before but it still less the 1 ft tall from the top of the hydroton to the tip of the budsites. I basically LST'd all the major branches and then set up a mini scrog in the middle of what used to be the scrog screen, so I could tuck all the budsites coming off of the main branches under something. So the outside of the plant is LST'd and the center of the plant is scrogged....its hard to explain without a picture but you'll see when I post photos later this week

:peace:-PEACE-:peace:
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Hello All,

So tomorrow the plant will be 8 weeks old and almost a week into flower...little white hairs are starting to pop out everywhere, but the pictures under the HPS make them hard to see at this stage in flowering...should need about 9 more weeks to get a good solid crop. Judging by the size of this plant the yields look extremely promising...should be a monster.:blsmoke:

But without further delay....here are the pictures. Once again I had to move the plant about 10 days ago and it was out of its scrog for almost 5 days and spent 2 days in the pitch black, then was LST'd and sort of rescrogged to get where its at now...no signs of hermies still so I think I'm in the clear

Enjoy...DSC_0212.jpgDSC_0213.jpgDSC_0214.jpgDSC_0215.jpgDSC_0218.jpgDSC_0220.jpgDSC_0253.jpg
DSC_0259.jpg

There will be more pictures to come with the lights off so the quality should be better

:peace:-PEACE-:peace:
 

mr2shim

Well-Known Member
Looking great man! I'm subbed for this one. Another waterfarm/scrog/tent added to my subscriptions. They're becoming quite common now days.

A CMH can be used for flowering. scottyballs used one for his entire G13 PE grow. You should read that thread if you haven't already. Tons of great info about waterfarm + scrog. But with a CMH bulb, you MUST use a magnetic ballast they will NOT work in an electronic ballast.
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Hello All,

So I made the trip back over to the new grow location today and the plant had grown about 6 inches in the last 5 days! This baby is really growing hard during this stretch. It took me almost 2 hours just to get the lady tied back down to the height it was 5 days ago. I also did some serious trim work (about 1.5 oz wet of leaves) and clipped off about 20 smaller branches as well. I've been saving all my trim so far and with these new trimmings I should have about 2 oz of dry trim, so I think I'm gonna make some brownies this weekend:mrgreen:....I love brownies.

On another note, my buddy couldn't stand to see me trim off so many branches without taking clones, so he went ahead and picked out 7 of the best looking clones and put them into 1/2 gallon soil containers to start rooting. I think he plans on putting em straight to 12/12 and flowering them in his bathroom just for the hell of it...He's also gonna keep the best of the 7 as a mother so that we can keep the gene pool alive, as I am out of seeds.

I didn't remember to bring my camera but I have to go back tomorrow to change the nutrients so I'll take some pics while I'm there.....if the stretching doesn't stop soon I'm gonna have to get some new light hangers that allow me to raise the light a little more cuz I'm running out of room to tie down branches. It also seems like the stalk on this bad boy about doubled in size over the last 2 weeks in preparation for the flower....It should be a beast of a plant by the time its done growing up.

:peace:-PEACE-:peace:
 

Richard4vt

Active Member
Hello All,

So I've been looking around and couldn't get a solid answer on this. I've been saving all of the leaves, stems, and branches that I have cut off from underneath the canopy of the plant. Its over 3 ounces of dried trim. About half of it was taken throughout veg and the other half was trimmed a few days ago about 10 days into flower. I know that the amount of THC present in the plant during these early stages in pretty negligible, but I was wondering of anyone else who runs a larger grow op that gets large amounts of trimmed leaves during veg has ever tried making brownies with the vegetative trimmings. I was thinking that if I just made one batch of brownies with the entire 3 ounces of trim that it would actually be potent enough to work, but was hoping for a solid answer.

I don't want any bullshit answer about how negligible the THC is and that it probably won't work...I need someone who has ACTUALLY made brownies with a LARGE amount of VEGETATIVE trim, and who knows 100 PERCENT whether it is worth it or not. If this isn't worthwhile I will just freeze my trim and add it to the sugar leaf from harvest to increase the potency of the brownies I make after harvesting

THANKS

-PEACE-
 
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