Blueberry and kerosene krash yellowing

P

pulchripes

Member
A bit of background on this grow, I've posted in a few forums but just want the maximum amount of advice I can get really. Two of my plants, DP blueberry and DP kerosene krash are showing issues. Tent is 2x4 from Green Architecture, 2x 120w LEDs from gerylove, only using 1 for the minute, extractor is a 4" AC infinity with their carbon filter, temps are between 20 at night and 27 daytime, RH is around 60%, watering with tap water left to gas off for a day and PH'd to 6.5, however a slurry test showed the soil is still just below 6... something that may be causing the issue? Just before transplant from the small pots, they were in a few spoons of worm castings, a few spoons of jack's magic compost, coco and perlite mixed in and they looked really good, a few bottom leaves began to yellow by transplant day, which I thought was hunger/root bound and the root system had filled around the edges fairly. The transplant mix I used was the same as the seedlings, only I added the lowest recommended amount of living soil's grow dry amendments to it and a small literally a pinch of the bloom, being that I intended to flip to flower in a few weeks and that would give time to break it down in the soil (bad idea?) As I'm planning to keep them from getting huge in the 2x4, I do plan on LST but as for topping, I don't know if I should stress them even more than they are at the moment. I also added a small dusting of living soil's mycorrhizae booster to the transplant hole before watering them in (also bad idea? Couldn't get a consensus on it anywhere, but seen other growers do this)
The yellowing I'm unsure if it's straight up hunger for mag or phosphorus as the new medium isn't yet supplying as much as they need at this stage (slurry test showed 1000ppm which is probablytoo much), the PH is still not quite right or they're straight up being nute burned. The light is 18" above them and set to 50%, it was lower and turned up to 75% but it started to taco them slightly. Any advice welcome
 

Attachments

UnknownRemedy

UnknownRemedy

Well-Known Member
I'm not the best person to answer advice, so take it with a grain of salt.

It looks like nute burn. Blue coloring in the leaves and yellowing.
I've had this problem in my current grow, and it looks like that to me tbh.
 
P

pulchripes

Member
Thanks for the replies, I did a flush last night on the worst affected one and ppm was actually reading 2000 with my new meter sooooo
 
FatherNelson

FatherNelson

Well-Known Member
Download photone app and see what it says your ppfd is..... I think you should be around 280-320 and the plant will be happy. The recommendations from mfr on light heights are ridiculous.

I think your feeding and everything else is okay.
 
MannyPacs

MannyPacs

Well-Known Member
pulchripes said:
There's only a small amount of coco really, the rest is compost and worm castings
Click to expand...
Doesn't sound like a very good base. I would suggest either following a proven soil recipe or just start with some happy frog. I haven't seen a good example of Treating compost coco and ewc like a living soil. Best of luck tho it sounds like you're on your way to figuring it out
 
P

pulchripes

Member
FatherNelson said:
Download photone app and see what it says your ppfd is..... I think you should be around 280-320 and the plant will be happy. The recommendations from mfr on light heights are ridiculous.

I think your feeding and everything else is okay.
Click to expand...
I have an app called PPFD meter that a guy on YouTube ran a really expensive meter up against and the results were pretty much the same, I then ran the lights to recommend range for their size and clear signs of light stress happened which baffled me to be honest, I used a laser thermometer on the leaves and readings were fine too, I'm gonna at least hang the second LED tonight.
You think 2000+ppm in the runoff is also an issue?
 
FatherNelson

FatherNelson

Well-Known Member
pulchripes said:
I have an app called PPFD meter that a guy on YouTube ran a really expensive meter up against and the results were pretty much the same, I then ran the lights to recommend range for their size and clear signs of light stress happened which baffled me to be honest, I used a laser thermometer on the leaves and readings were fine too, I'm gonna at least hang the second LED tonight
Click to expand...
What PPFD are you getting? They want 250-600 in veg.
 
ProPheT 216

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
pulchripes said:
Will turn the light up to 75%
Click to expand...
I wonder in all honesty how much load using a dimmer puts on the driver. To me things always perform best and last langer with features turned off. No facts here but my simple mind tells me your working your light hard using a dimmer.
 
P

pulchripes

Member
ProPheT 216 said:
I wonder in all honesty how much load using a dimmer puts on the driver. To me things always perform best and last langer with features turned off. No facts here but my simple mind tells me your working your light hard using a dimmer.
Click to expand...
No idea it's built in to the driver, it won't turn on any other way.
 
FatherNelson

FatherNelson

Well-Known Member
600 like a week before flower
pulchripes said:
I'll check again when I get home, I'll set it to maybe 350 or 400 canopy level at this stage?
Click to expand...
Yep. I topped and started doing LST early. Hell, my seedling I already bent the stem and it doesnt have a 5 leaf yet.

I dont want to modify the light a bunch, would rather they grow into a stronger intensity that they can handle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top