bLURPLIEST lIGHT

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
that dude from Philips is growing the shit out of some 'maters in the pic.

you got a pic of your light setup? or a description of what and how much of each?
I can't find much right now. But here's one I found that I posted on here. I had the CMH in the middle and LED's on both sides too, but can't find that. Anyways my closet is set up LED, CMH, LED, CMH, LED. But I also have a couple LED's in front of the CMH right now so all I'm running is LED. I was gonna get an electrician to come out and give me more power, but I'm not in a huge hurry.

I don't want to push it. It would work now, but it wouldn't be ideal, and I'm not messing with playing with fire in my bedroom.

 

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
Might want to look at metal halide or mercury vapour. 30% blue light. I personally would use a 3 k mono chip led over the old tek, or go with some cob chip combo. Gave my blurps away. Got nothing on 3 k plus 4 k and 660s. Could go 4 or 5 k with added 660a if you like more blue. I personally prefer red dominance 2 to 1 over blue. Just my opinion!
 

tstick

Well-Known Member
OP, If you want purple, then just get a bunch of black lights! :) Or maybe get some stage lighting cans and run them with purple gels in them! (Actually, I've wondered about that, myself!)

Seriously, though....In my experience, plants like really white/blue spectrum when they are growing in veg., and, in flower, they really ripen better under HPS light. That's just my experience. Your milage may vary! ;) I am also kicking around the idea of getting a 315w CMH fixture before my next run, too. Everyone who uses them seems to love them.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Something with a broad spectrum instead of a narrow spectrum the burples produce.
Thing is, white chips are around 3umol now but still lacking anywhere from 300-420nm and 680-760nm.
Some monochromatics can match that efficacy while the 660nm easily top that by +30%.
So the combination of both may lead to
(a) higher system efficacy
(b) broader spectral output

One may just pick the white base chip in another K to compensate for the colour shift when using 660/(730) excessively. To arrive at the same photomophogenic expression (internode length etc). That's all in a nutshell. There's no magic in the spec, well except for the 730nm diode that needs to be handled with care. But it's the raw photon output responsible for carbon fixation (mass acquisition) and the colour recipe dicating the plant architecture.

Many scientific papers use just red/blue 1:10 and it creates the very same macro plant structure as your standard white chip. But when one looks into a detailed tissue sample analysis - there are many differences, how that can affect quality on specific strains is impossible to say. Though it would be kinda important as both - R/B and white - are oftentimes used in studies as control-light. Other studies, on control-light specs, have used 5500k as that comes close to the sun's colour which is around 5775k, or used a customized sunspec (inkl. UVA and FR) but it's still not the same as the sun - the artifical light depreciates much with distances and leaves only FR in the depths, when outside you have the same very high direct sunlight everywhere, and both the diffuse blue-shifted skylight and green-enriched greenlight (scattered away from other foilage), which can have a large effect on phototropism and photomorphology. Inside there's no way to replicate that, so even starting with only half the FR in an electric light will leave a gross R:FR mismatch quickly as compared to outside (influencing the phytochrome stationairy state, in the case of Cannabis as a sunloving plant which reacts harshly to a (bogus) "shadelight" environment...)

But the monochromatic LED tech still doesn't fully use all available wavelengths in the red department so there may be room for further improvement, both seen from an standpoint of increased photon output efficiency and a better plant architecture.
 
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